[sarpal123]

This one had the BMW Technician beaten.

Can anyone help me resolve this problem; each time I try to start the car (50e) the following message is displayed:

"Vehicle key not available or function failure. Ready-to-drive mode cannot be started. See Owner's Handbook for further information."

followed by

"Hold the vehicle key against the marker on the steering column. See Owner's Handbook for further information."

Any idea what is causing this (the battery has been replaced)?

Thanks

[TurtleBoy]

Did you replace it multiple times just to make sure you didn't have a bad battery. Also make sure you are not using an Energizer brand battery since those have created issues in the past.

[bloozemanAZ]

Originally Posted by TurtleBoy

Did you replace it multiple times just to make sure you didn't have a bad battery. Also make sure you are not using an Energizer brand battery since those have created issues in the past.

Although I do have Energizer CR2032's with no issue it sounds like the OP may have replaced the battery with a nearly depleted battery as well. There's a shelf life for any unused battery and why I just cycle the "standbys" every couple of years.

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by sarpal123

This one had the BMW Technician beaten.

Can anyone help me resolve this problem; each time I try to start the car (50e) the following message is displayed:

"Vehicle key not available or function failure. Ready-to-drive mode cannot be started. See Owner's Handbook for further information."

followed by

"Hold the vehicle key against the marker on the steering column. See Owner's Handbook for further information."

Any idea what is causing this (the battery has been replaced)?

Thanks

Are you saying your BMW tech could not solve the issue????

I've run into this issue with my wife's car, it turned out that the replacement battery was nearly dead. Strangely enough, I remember when we bought it, I bought it to replace the OEM battery in her second key fob. Not knowing that she bought a new battery when that other key fob needed it , I used the one I bought a couple years ago to replace a battery in yet a diff key fob in a diff car and low and behold, to make a long story short, it died while simply waiting to be used. All batteries have a shelf life. So, I guess I'm saying what the others here already said.. .. just buy another new one and replace it and see if that works.

[nZtiZia]

some of these batteries have a protective film on them, so make sure that's removed before installation.

if you're certain the key fob batteries are good ones and installed properly but still have the issue, you may just need to disconnect the 12V battery for a few minutes. this has actually helped restore key recognition for a lot of 45e owners with similar issue in the past

[sarpal123]

Originally Posted by TurtleBoy

Did you replace it multiple times just to make sure you didn't have a bad battery. Also make sure you are not using an Energizer brand battery since those have created issues in the past.

The car is a loaner whist mine is back in the dealer's (again), it is only a few weeks old with ~600 miles. I'll go get another battery and try again, and again, and again... you get the picture

UPDATE
Replaced the battery twice, no change

[sarpal123]

Originally Posted by nZtiZia

some of these batteries have a protective film on them, so make sure that's removed before installation.

if you're certain the key fob batteries are good ones and installed properly but still have the issue, you may just need to disconnect the 12V battery for a few minutes. this has actually helped restore key recognition for a lot of 45e owners with similar issue in the past

The BMW Assist guy did all this - disconnecting the battery etc. and some other dark magic. It appears that the car is fine (according to his diagnostics) but the key fob is misbehaving. I have no provenance for the key as it's a loaner; anything could have been done to it apparently.

[nZtiZia]

ah, it’s a loaner? so hopefully not much longer!

[cobramite]

Originally Posted by nZtiZia

some of these batteries have a protective film on them, so make sure that's removed before installation.

if you're certain the key fob batteries are good ones and installed properly but still have the issue, you may just need to disconnect the 12V battery for a few minutes. this has actually helped restore key recognition for a lot of 45e owners with similar issue in the past

Excellent point. I've made that mistake before, DUUUUHHH.

[sarpal123]

Originally Posted by nZtiZia

ah, it’s a loaner? so hopefully not much longer!

Not a moment longer than absolutely necessary

[whynotme]

Happened to me yesterday. Replaced batteries in both fobs and both now work just fine again. I'll bet the dealer charges hundreds to replace a battery.

[streborx]

Originally Posted by TurtleBoy

Did you replace it multiple times just to make sure you didn't have a bad battery. Also make sure you are not using an Energizer brand battery since those have created issues in the past.

I've heard before tales of Energizer battery incompatibility with key fobs, but I've never heard any rationale that explains how this could be. Here are some observations made at Walmart's battery display rack.

1. A package of two 2032 Energizers retails for $5.47. A package of two Duracells retails for $5.72.
2. Both brands have identical dimensions (20mm thick x 32mm dia), are rated at 3 volts, and are lithium chemistry. Maybe they're both made in the same Chinese factory(?).
3. The Energizers are packaged in a clear plastic blister with foil backing. The Duracells are packaged in a cardboard and plastic blister that most folks can't open without experiencing personal injury.
4. The Duracells have a clear plastic film that covers most of the + side, and contains a bitter tasting compound so your pets and kids are less likely to eat them. This film must be removed before battery use.
5. The Duracell package is marked with a date code; the Energizer is not.

There is no reason a new Energizer cell taken right out of its package should fail to operate any device that specifies a 2032 coin cell battery. However, lacking a date code, some retailers that don't turn inventory regularly might have aged product, and this could result in performance failure.

I will compare manufacturer spec sheets and perform testing on these two brands in coming months, and report my findings in a future thread.

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by streborx

I've heard before tales of Energizer battery incompatibility with key fobs, but I've never heard any rationale that explains how this could be. Here are some observations made at Walmart's battery display rack.

1. A package of two 2032 Energizers retails for $5.47. A package of two Duracells retails for $5.72.
2. Both brands have identical dimensions (20mm thick x 32mm dia), are rated at 3 volts, and are lithium chemistry. Maybe they're both made in the same Chinese factory(?).
3. The Energizers are packaged in a clear plastic blister with foil backing. The Duracells are packaged in a cardboard and plastic blister that most folks can't open without experiencing personal injury.
4. The Duracells have a clear plastic film that covers most of the + side, and contains a bitter tasting compound so your pets and kids are less likely to eat them. This film must be removed before battery use.
5. The Duracell package is marked with a date code; the Energizer is not.

There is no reason a new Energizer cell taken right out of its package should fail to operate any device that specifies a 2032 coin cell battery. However, lacking a date code, some retailers that don't turn inventory regularly might have aged product, and this could result in performance failure.

I will compare manufacturer spec sheets and perform testing on these two brands in coming months, and report my findings in a future thread.

Reading your post, I became curious so I just checked my fobs, I have Panasonic batteries in them, I don't believe they have ever been replaced. I've not personally seen where one brand or the other is or may be incompatible. When I buy batteries, 2032 or otherwise, its usually because something died, my battery supply box didn't have the proper size in it so I ran out in a frantic mad state and grabbed the first ones I came across. Whatever brand I happened across has always worked.

[GerryC]

Originally Posted by Marty in NY

Reading your post, I became curious so I just checked my fobs, I have Panasonic batteries in them, I don't believe they have ever been replaced. I've not personally seen where one brand or the other is or may be incompatible. When I buy batteries, 2032 or otherwise, its usually because something died, my battery supply box didn't have the proper size in it so I ran out in a frantic mad state and grabbed the first ones I came across. Whatever brand I happened across has always worked.

Our X5 ownership went over 2 years a couple months ago. When it went in for an oil change, the SA said it was time to replace the batteries in the fobs. He replaced the batteries in both fobs (my wife and I were both there waiting on the service.) It was the first time that ever came up in all the years we've had BMWs.

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by GerryC

Our X5 ownership went over 2 years a couple months ago. When it went in for an oil change, the SA said it was time to replace the batteries in the fobs. He replaced the batteries in both fobs (my wife and I were both there waiting on the service.) It was the first time that ever came up in all the years we've had BMWs.

Well, with the older cars, key fobs only had a couple of functions but that's not the case anymore. The fobs are constantly communicating with the car, storing data, etc. The fob will sleep when not being moved for some period of time but I can see why the battery may not last as long as in the old days, hence the 3023 battery. That said, as I posted, I do believe the batteries in my fobs are original and they're still kicking.
I just replaced both batteries in my wife's GTi a few weeks ago, those were 5.5yrs old before they died. I replaced them with Energizer 2025's that I bought in Jan 2021. So far so good.
Both batteries are 3V, the 2032 is slightly thicker as it has a higher capacity than the 2025, 235mAh vs 170mAh but the load on it in the GTi I suspect is much less. I think the last two digits, 32 or 25 represent the thickness of the battery where the 2032 is 3.2mm thick and the 2025 is 2.5mm thick. The 20 means they are 20mm round

[GerryC]

Originally Posted by Marty in NY

Well, with the older cars, key fobs only had a couple of functions but that's not the case anymore. The fobs are constantly communicating with the car, storing data, etc. The fob will sleep when not being moved for some period of time but I can see why the battery may not last as long as in the old days, hence the 3023 battery. That said, as I posted, I do believe the batteries in my fobs are original and they're still kicking.
I just replaced both batteries in my wife's GTi a few weeks ago, those were 5.5yrs old before they died. I replaced them with Energizer 2025's that I bought in Jan 2021. So far so good.
Both batteries are 3V, the 2032 is slightly thicker as it has a higher capacity than the 2025, 235mAh vs 170mAh but the load on it in the GTi I suspect is much less. I think the last two digits, 32 or 25 represent the thickness of the battery where the 2032 is 3.2mm thick and the 2025 is 2.5mm thick. The 20 means they are 20mm round

I get it, but the 'old days' weren't that long ago. When comfort access became available, BMW switched to replaceable batteries in the fobs. I've had an E89, F15, and F30 with comfort access. The batteries would last 4 years or so. Changed them when the Kombi display indicated 'fob battery low'. I'm guessing BMW started the change them at the 2 year point as it was causing issues that generated service claims under the 36 month warranty. Thus paying for a few batteries reduced warranty claims that cost them more in troubleshooting costs.

And you are correct on the button battery numbers. First 1 or 2 digits are diameter in mm, last 2 digits are thickness in tenths of mm.

[streborx]

Originally Posted by GerryC

And you are correct on the button battery numbers. First 1 or 2 digits are diameter in mm, last 2 digits are thickness in tenths of mm.

I reversed the dimensions and dropped a decimal point in my post #12 above. You've stated it correctly 20mm dia and 3.2mm thick -- thanks for the correction.

Regarding Panasonic, they are a reputable brand. Just not as commonly found on battery racks in the box stores as Duracell and Energizer.

[TurtleBoy]

Originally Posted by streborx

I've heard before tales of Energizer battery incompatibility with key fobs, but I've never heard any rationale that explains how this could be. Here are some observations made at Walmart's battery display rack.

1. A package of two 2032 Energizers retails for $5.47. A package of two Duracells retails for $5.72.
2. Both brands have identical dimensions (20mm thick x 32mm dia), are rated at 3 volts, and are lithium chemistry. Maybe they're both made in the same Chinese factory(?).
3. The Energizers are packaged in a clear plastic blister with foil backing. The Duracells are packaged in a cardboard and plastic blister that most folks can't open without experiencing personal injury.
4. The Duracells have a clear plastic film that covers most of the + side, and contains a bitter tasting compound so your pets and kids are less likely to eat them. This film must be removed before battery use.
5. The Duracell package is marked with a date code; the Energizer is not.

There is no reason a new Energizer cell taken right out of its package should fail to operate any device that specifies a 2032 coin cell battery. However, lacking a date code, some retailers that don't turn inventory regularly might have aged product, and this could result in performance failure.

I will compare manufacturer spec sheets and perform testing on these two brands in coming months, and report my findings in a future thread.

There are multiple threads with folks having problems with an Energizer and then having the fob work after replacing it with another brand. I don't recall ever having seen a verified reason as to why. The interesting thing is we have not had people posting about having similar problems with other brands.

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by TurtleBoy

There are multiple threads with folks having problems with an Energizer and then having the fob work after replacing it with another brand. I don't recall ever having seen a verified reason as to why. The interesting thing is we have not had people posting about having similar problems with other brands.

I wonder if its due to.. ..
1. People not paying attention to dates stamped on packages when they buy batteries, I know I normally don't cause I'm in a hurry to get whatever working again.
2. Duracel, the famous Copper Top battery, being more popular due to their marketing so their turnover is higher.

So, the less popular brand may have a shorter life once someone installs them I'm just guessing as I've never had an issue with any brand.

[GerryC]

Originally Posted by streborx

I reversed the dimensions and dropped a decimal point in my post #12 above. You've stated it correctly 20mm dia and 3.2mm thick -- thanks for the correction.

Regarding Panasonic, they are a reputable brand. Just not as commonly found on battery racks in the box stores as Duracell and Energizer.

I find Panasonic batteries included with many Japanese electronics. They're easy to find on Amazon and often cheaper than either Duracell or Energizer.

[mmm50i]

I'm one of the owners who first tried an Energizer battery without success. However, when I put in a Panasonic battery, the message went away. To this day, I still can't understand why, but hey if it works, it works!

[sarpal123]

I've just bought some BRAND NEW Duracell 2032s and tried two of them - still no joy. The temp solution is to get in and hold the key to the steering column, then press start (then just close the error message). Tedious but it works.

Anyone got any thoughts as to what could be the cause?