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03-30-2026LAST POST
TGMcCoy wroteNo.. I've run them as low as 40, and as high as 50. Doesn't seem to matter.Dang!! I had one of my fully forged rears(2+ months old) 22x12 crack in 3 different places. We've got bad roads here as well in some places. What PSI do you run? I was curious if running a little lower would soften the blow
The roads here in Southern Belgium are worse than war-torn Afghanistan roads... The worst I've ever seen.
....And this is coming from a guy that has been to 45 of the 50 states, and over 70 countries in his life.
Washington DC? LA? Philly? They've got NOTHING on the shitterific roads in Southern Belgium.
Hell... I took a 14-day road trip on the motorcycle through 8 countries in the Balkans last Summer.... Even BOSNIA & KOSOVO have better roads than Southern Belgium.
I guess the weight of the X5 and potholes... it may be bound to happen. Crossing fingers to last more than a couple months this time. And I upsized the ratio 275/40 315/35 to maybe help with this and this is exactly when the crack happened
erix920 wroteI wouldn't say it's "shot". It depends. I was beginning to notice a bit of "shuttering"... particularly in reverse.... with the wheels turned either direction.Thank you for the pics and details on the front and rear diff fluid change! Hopefully the royal purple has some added protection. Pretty sure my front diff is shot at 77k miles on my m50 (bought the car second hand).
I changed the xfer case fluid... and the problem is GONE.
Now... I imagine that had I continued to drive like that for an extended period of time? Yea... I would have thrashed my xfer case.
All the experts say to do it at 50k miles. Yet, BMW says to do it at 100+k miles.
I trust the experts. It's $40 for the fluid.... it's worth the investment.
The diffs?? Ehhh... I just did them because i happen to be under the car. I figured, why not?
Ninefourteener wroteMan that looks amazing! So clean.Car wash day. Can't believe I've had this thing almost 5 years now.
I'v read the whole thread and I am impressed.
I would like to make brakes swap in my x5 so I have a few questions.
Was there any coding needed after brake calipers swap?
Is there any problem with vent the brakes after replacing the clamps? Does it require a computer or do we do it classically?
Greetings from Poland!
lamer wroteThanks!Hi.
I'v read the whole thread and I am impressed.
I would like to make brakes swap in my x5 so I have a few questions.
Was there any coding needed after brake calipers swap?
Is there any problem with vent the brakes after replacing the clamps? Does it require a computer or do we do it classically?
Greetings from Poland!
No, I did not do any coding at all. It was all a direct mechanical swap.
I did however, make one very critical mistake: When I was changing the front calipers, they keyfob must have been too close to the car, and the car "woke up" when I was bleeding the caliper.
The ABS pump went crazy - Started pumping fluid all over the place, and then threw every warning light that the car had to offer.
Even worse - the car STOPPED SENDING FLUID to the right front caliper, which made for a VERY dangerous driving.
"Mechanically", I did everything perfectly. However, the computer recognized "something' went wrong, and it was VERY unhappy with me.
I brought it to a technician... he cleared all the faults in 10 minutes, and the car has been fine since then. Zero mechanical work - everything was perfect.
Make 100% sure the car is "off" when you do brake work. In fact... just disconnect the battery, and make sure your key is FAR away.
Ninefourteener wroteI'm glad you answered.I did however, make one very critical mistake: When I was changing the front calipers, they keyfob must have been too close to the car, and the car "woke up" when I was bleeding the caliper.
The ABS pump went crazy - Started pumping fluid all over the place, and then threw every warning light that the car had to offer.
A familiar BMW ASO employee warned me against this. I didn't quite know what he was talking about.
If I remember correctly, he said that when I open the door (?), the ABS pump would push the piston.
I have the Bimmer-Tool app and OBD Interface. There is the "brake assembly mode" option. It probably prevents this problem.
lamer wroteI'm not sure. I'm old-school, and I can turn a wrench better than anyone I know... but computers, coding, etc.... manages to elude me.I'm glad you answered.
A familiar BMW ASO employee warned me against this. I didn't quite know what he was talking about.
If I remember correctly, he said that when I open the door (?), the ABS pump would push the piston.
I have the Bimmer-Tool app and OBD Interface. There is the "brake assembly mode" option. It probably prevents this problem.
I've replaced the front calipers, then reverted back to stock, then re-replaced the front calipers again (3 times total)... all without coding.
I've also replaced the rear calipers without coding. I've also manually turned back the rear e-brake without coding.... no issues with anything.
Until one day... I had an issue:
I installed the rear BBK... new calipers, rotors, separate e-brake calipers, 4-piston braking calipers.. took it out for a drive... no problems whatsoever.
Then I switched to the front (much easier and less complicated). Replaced the driver side caliper/rotor... bled the brake... no problem.
Got to the passenger side..... got everything installed.... and then when I went to bleed it, the ABS pump kicked in like CRAZY... and pumped nearly a quart of brake fluid out the bleeder valve. It didn't stop pumping fluid until I closed the bleeder. I re-filled the system, re-bled, and "mechanically" everything was fine....
But it threw every warning light you can imagine. Not joking, it was giving me like 6 different warning codes, all over the dashboard..... and it electronically killed power (fluid flow) to the passenger side front caliper. Made it VERY dangerous to drive. The car pulled HARD to the left, and it took twice as long to stop the car. It was VERY dangerous to drive that way.
Took it to a local (non BMW) tech that specializes in BMW tuning. He cleared the codes, and everything has worked 100% perfect since then. He didn't even need to re-bleed. Everything "mechanically" I'd done was 100% perfect... but the computer was VERY angry with me about it - LOL
Hope this helps.
Wondering if any of you lads know where to find internal engine specs such as Main bearing, rod bearing and journal sizes for this engine?
Tired calling main dealer and BMW AUS plus various BMW service deps but they all failed.
Thanks in advance!
Ninefourteener wroteHi, I'm planning on getting custom wheels.Continental Conti Sportcontact 7
In the exact same size (315/30/22)..... the Pzeros have a tread width of 10.8 inches. The Contis? 11.6 inches. On a 12 inch wide rim? that'll work just fine.
I'm currently using the stock 22" 742M wheels with the stock Continental PremiumContact 6 summer tires.
275/35 R22
315/30 R22
I also have 12mm spacers in the front and 15mm spacers in the back.
What is the widest wheels I can get to be fitted with my stock tires in the front and rear so I wouldn't have to use spacers anymore?
Thanks.
bizfiend wroteYou can use the same size/offset as I did:Hi, I'm planning on getting custom wheels.
I'm currently using the stock 22" 742M wheels with the stock Continental PremiumContact 6 summer tires.
275/35 R22
315/30 R22
I also have 12mm spacers in the front and 15mm spacers in the back.
What is the widest wheels I can get to be fitted with my stock tires in the front and rear so I wouldn't have to use spacers anymore?
Thanks.
22x10.5 front ET 19 "deep" profile
22x12 rear ET 20 "super deep" profile
.... but you have to find the widest tires available.... because most "normal" OEM sizes will look "stretched".
Or.. just go with the same dimensions as OEM.... but with a lower offset. That way you can run any brand tire you want.
I've run shorter (low profile) tires.... and I kept denting rims.
I've run taller tires... and the rubbed the inside of the fenders.
OEM sized tires are best.... but I had to research the tire with the widest treadpatch (Continental Conti Sport 7).... and they work well, but they are often hard to come by.
If I had to do it all again, I would have gone with stock width wheels, but with a lower offset, so tires would be easy to come by.
Issues I've dealt with:
1. Headlights fogged up (replaced under warrantee)
2. Secondary (internal) water pump for the heater went bad (about $1500)
That's it.
6 years, almost 70k miles....
I change the oil regularly with Royal Purple..... Changed all the fluids at 55k (both diffs, transmission, and xfer case).... and since then, I change the xfer case fluid every 10k when I do the engine oil (for preventative maintenance, because of all the issues people have had).
I've run aftermarket wheels almost exclusively for 6 years..... I've run "taller than stock" tires, "Shorter than stock" tires.... and oem sized tires.
And I'm generating considerably more HP than stock.... also since almost new.
All things considered, she's been a pretty damn good car. No complaints from me.
Ninefourteener wroteI’m motivated reading thisThis started out as a "day I picked up the car" thread.... and has turned into more of a continuous upgrade/modification thread.
So.... I'll update this first post with a list of all current mods, and just keep adding pictures/updates on the back-end of the thread as they happen.
Acquired Feb 10th, 2020: US Spec 2020 X5 M50i, Alpine white, Exec, 21s, 2 axle air, B&W, coffee, anthracite, tow pack.
Last update: 15 April, 2024
MOD LIST
Engine/Drivetrain:
1) Dynotuned by BR-Performance, Willobroek, Belgium
European measurements - 690 hp / 928 nM
US measurements - 680hp / 685 ft lb
1a) Retuned 19 Jan 2021 due to software update and severed (chewed through) Oxygen sensor:
European measurements - 702 hp /943 nM
US measurements - 692 hp / 696 ft lb
2) Removal of 2x charcoal intake filters
3) Permanent opening of Exhaust flapper valves (exhaust replaced April 2024)
4) Bimmercode - disable Auto Start/Stop
5) Bimmercode - default to Sport Individual at startup
6) BBM drop links (0.5" front, 1.0" rear)
7) BMC high performance intake filters Part # FB01103 (BMC)
8) 4x custom matte black exhaust tips
9) Custom 3" double H-pipe, resonator delete
10) OEM 6-piston X5M front BBK
Rear dual-calipet 4-piston BBK (updated April 2024)
11)Underhood critter-scaring noise device so rodents will stop eating my car
12) April 7th, 2024: Full X5M exhaust (retrofitted)
Interior:
1) BMW Retrofit G05 Glove box CD player Part # 65122451536 and 65122451539 [...]
Ninefourteener wroteVery encouraging. Just picked up a 20 m50 last night. Probably gonna get a warranty just for piece of mind as this my first BMW V8 after many 6 cylinder models.June, 2025...... I've had this beast almost 6 years.
Issues I've dealt with:
1. Headlights fogged up (replaced under warrantee)
2. Secondary (internal) water pump for the heater went bad (about $1500)
That's it.
6 years, almost 70k miles....
I change the oil regularly with Royal Purple..... Changed all the fluids at 55k (both diffs, transmission, and xfer case).... and since then, I change the xfer case fluid every 10k when I do the engine oil (for preventative maintenance, because of all the issues people have had).
I've run aftermarket wheels almost exclusively for 6 years..... I've run "taller than stock" tires, "Shorter than stock" tires.... and oem sized tires.
And I'm generating considerably more HP than stock.... also since almost new.
All things considered, she's been a pretty damn good car. No complaints from me.
You get an extended warranty or just winging it?
LuckyBrand wroteNope. I bought it brand new, knowing full well I'd start voiding the warrantee within the first week of ownership, so buying an extended warrantee seemed pointless.Very encouraging. Just picked up a 20 m50 last night. Probably gonna get a warranty just for piece of mind as this my first BMW V8 after many 6 cylinder models.
You get an extended warranty or just winging it?
I do all the maintenance & repairs anyway, because I dont trust the high school dropouts and ex cons that work in dealerships. Ive seen too many of them. way too many.
I only bring it to someone if:
a) I need warrantee work done (like the headlights fogging)
b) I don't have the tools (like a tire machine, or an advanced computer
c) I GENUINELY cannot figure out the problem (like the secondary water pump - that even took the dealership 6 weeks to figure out)
Anyway.... so far so good.
Anyway, I bought my 2020 X5 M50i 2 years ago. The two year warranty expired a couple weeks ago. It had only 5600 miles when I got it. Now it has 15,900 miles. Accept for the Metallic Black Saphire paint, black leather interior, it appears identical to yours, at least when you first bought yours. Because our previous BMW's all had CD players I never gave it a thought and took that feature for granted. Wife and I always listen to books on CD when traveling. They make traveling time very enjoyable. Having to deal with a portable CD player with separate speaker attached and a bunch of wires is a pain in the neck. I've spent hours trying to copy CD books onto USB thumb drives with crappy results. Can't get the book chapters to copy in the correct order. So, fearful about how badly a dealer might shaft my car during a CD player install I might have to give up on this dream.
PS: The most recent dealership horror story: Wife took her 2014 650i Gran Coupe to dealer for oil/filter change. They talked her into new air filters. After getting the car back she immediately noticed the car's engine start/stop feature was acting strangely. The engine sputtered and bucked before shutting off at stoplights and then sputtered abd bucked again when restarting. Then about a mile away from home the car died and would not restart. I was on my way home at the same time and saw her stranded on the side of the neighborhood road. After several calls the dealer's service manager arrived by car and then a tow truck arrived. He gave her his car and he rode back to the dealership with the tow truck and her car. Somehow they managed to disconnect important wires during the air filter installs. Good grief. I should have watched youtube.com videos and done the filters myself. I did that when the AC stopped working in her car. I changed the cabin filter and even went so far as to change the blower motor with the help from online videos. Very labor intensive work for a 77 year old like me but only took me a few hours and $150.00 for the parts. AC runs great again.
ButtInSki wroteI did a search for info on the BMW CD player that installs in the glove box and that led me to you and this thread, fascinating stuff by the way. I hoped I would find info on how to install the player and how it functioned. Your video about how it operates was very helpful. I've found at least a dozen retailers that sell the player but none of them have information about installation. I dread dealerships because our experience after 5 BMW's under our belts is that they may mean well but all too often depend on blind luck rather than skill or knowledge when working on our cars.
Anyway, I bought my 2020 X5 M50i 2 years ago. The two year warranty expired a couple weeks ago. It had only 5600 miles when I got it. Now it has 15,900 miles. Accept for the Metallic Black Saphire paint, black leather interior, it appears identical to yours, at least when you first bought yours. Because our previous BMW's all had CD players I never gave it a thought and took that feature for granted. Wife and I always listen to books on CD when traveling. They make traveling time very enjoyable. Having to deal with a portable CD player with separate speaker attached and a bunch of wires is a pain in the neck. I've spent hours trying to copy CD books onto USB thumb drives with crappy results. Can't get the book chapters to copy in the correct order. So, fearful about how badly a dealer might shaft my car during a CD player install I might have to give up on this dream.
PS: The most recent dealership horror story: Wife took her 2014 650i Gran Coupe to dealer for oil/filter change. They talked her into new air filters. After getting the car back she immediately noticed the car's engine start/stop feature was acting strangely. The engine sputtered and bucked before shutting off at stoplights and then sputtered abd bucked again when restarting. Then about a mile away from home the car died and would not restart. I was on my way home at the same time and saw her stranded on the side of the neighborhood road. After several calls the dealer's service manager arrived by car and then a tow truck arrived. He gave her his car and he rode back to the dealership with the tow truck and her car. Somehow they managed to disconnect important wires during the air filter installs. Good grief. I should have watched youtube.com videos and done the filters myself. I did that when the AC stopped working in her car. I changed the cabin filter and even went so far as to change the blower motor with the help from online videos. Very labor intensive work for a 77 year old like me but only took me a few hours and $150.00 for the parts. AC runs great again.
