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6 hours agoLAST POST
05-21-2020
(Mini-rant) I don't care if it's free. From my experience, 95% of mechanics are incompetent. If the computer won't tell them what's wrong when they plug in the OBD port, they lack the ability to diagnose/repair anything. Of the 5% that are competent, 95% of those are theives, liars, and scam artists. At any given shop, there are "maybe" 1 or 2 licensed, trained "actual" mechanics. Everyone else, is a high school dropout making minimum wage. (Yes, even at BMW dealerships. Walmarts and quickie-lube places are far worse) I've caught 3 so far in the act of lying and had them fired. I caught another taking my car for a joyride, and had him fired as well. I don't trust ANY of them, so I always do my own maintenance, unless I lack the tools/equipment to do so. Piece of mind, to me.... is worth more than the cost of oil and time. (Rant over)

First oil change. Recommended at 10k miles. I did mine at 4500, because I'm getting ready to have it dynotuned. Same procedures every time. Overall, a pretty easy, uncomplicated, straightforward job. I've done oil changes on "roughly" 60-65 cars.... this one is about a 3 (out of 10) on the difficulty scale.

Pics were taken with oily hands, laying upside down often.... so please bear with me. A few of the picture orientations are reversed.

Ask questions if you've got em.

Step 1. Lift that monster's air suspension up if you have it. If not, just lift it up with a floor jack. I jacked from the driver side, but it doesn't matter. Air suspension alone isn't enough room (I tried).

Step 1a: remove all jewelry before you crawl under the car.... lol ;) Oops.

Step 1b; Gather tools needed;

1. BMW filter kit (part # 11 42 7 583 220)
2. Standard 3/8 ratchet
3. Standard 3/8 extention (4-6 inches)
4. Filter removal tool
5. 50mm torx socket (or allen equivilent)
6. Oil (My car took exactly 10 quarts)
7. Small pik/screwdriver (to remove filter housing o ring)
An image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the poster
05-21-2020
Step 2: Locate the oil drain plug (passenger side) access hole..... as well as the filter housing access hole (driver side)
An image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the poster
05-21-2020
Step 3: (with your oil pan under the car.... duhhhh).... remove the oil drain plug using a 50mm torx bit (a similar sized allen head socket would work just as well)

Step 4; Let all the oil drain out.

Step 5; replace the copper crush washer (my car actually didnt have one from the factory.... so don't freak out). It has one now though
An image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the poster
05-21-2020
Step 6: Using a filter housing tool you've had since the early 90s..... or a BMW approved one :)..... remove the filter housing and filter assembly.

Note: whatever you use, it needs to be a "top mount" style oil filter wrench. There is no access to turn from the side.

All vehicles are different. This one will have a bit of "splash out" when you remove the filter housing. It's unavoidable. No big deal, Just be prepared for it.
An image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the poster
05-21-2020
Step 7: pop the old filter out (just pull up with a little force).

Step 8; replace filter in the exact same orientation (filter label down inside the housing).... push firmly until it snaps in.

Note; small rubber O-ring is not used.

Step 9; replace large rubber o-ring around the outside of the filter housing

Step 10; Replace filter housing and filter assembly in the exact same orientation as removed

Step 10a; Clean up the oily mess you made to the skid plate.and the ground....... you filthy animal. :)
An image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the poster
05-21-2020
Step 11; Select the best oil that money can buy (Royal Purple) if you're a real man that loves your car.

If you're a cheapskate that doesn't care about your car.... just use some other substandard oil found at Walmart..... You can grab it next time you pick up your monthly supply of Summer's Eve vaginal deodorant spray.

:) Yea.... I said it..... shots fired..... whatcha got? LOL :)

0W30 is the recommended weight. I intentionally went with 0W40 for the summertime to add a bit more protection during startup. Obviously not "required", just my personal preference.

(Mini-rant) I've witnessed (and smelled) what happened to Mobil1 after 20-minute long, grueling, highly abusive lap-battle track sessions. It was black and smelled like burning tires. I switched to Royal Purple in 2008 after seeing (and smelling) it under the same circumstances. Fresh, unburnt, and still purple. I've sworn by it ever since, and use it exclusively, even on commuters/daily drivers. It is ABSOLUTELY worth the extra money. (end rant)
An image attached to this post, provided by the poster
05-21-2020
Step 12: remove oil filler cap on front/passenger side of engine bay.

Step 13: Using appropriate funnel, fill oil "about" 9 quarts, then check the level on the dipstick (located right next to the oil fill).

Note; My car, took exactly 10 quarts..... but check it at 9 to be sure you don't overfill
An image attached to this post, provided by the poster
05-21-2020
Step 14; Start your car normally, allow it to warm up (it will only measure after the car is at full operating temp) and check the oil level in the following steps on Idrive;
An image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the posterAn image attached to this post, provided by the poster
05-21-2020
Step 15; Follow the oil reset procedures in this video (I didn't see the sense in remaking one, because it's already been done well).

Good luck! Ask questions if you have any!
06-14-2020
Fantastic and detailed write up!
Im surprised the m50i doesnt require removing the engine cover and moving a few tubes, cause i had to with my 40i!
06-15-2020
Ftpohyeah wrote
Fantastic and detailed write up!
Im surprised the m50i doesnt require removing the engine cover and moving a few tubes, cause i had to with my 40i!
Thanks!

My '16 340i required removal of the engine cover (NBD).... but the oil filter housing was wedged in there pretty good, cockeyed, and a pain in the ass to get to. I still did it, but it irritated me every time.

This car is all done from the bottom..... but is a piece of cake by comparison.

I probably "could" have done it without jacks if I really wanted do, so long as I was absolutely sure I had every tool I needed, and wouldn't have to keep getting out from under the car, back under, back out, etc.
07-14-2020
Would you be able to get the it high enough with a pair of Rhino Ramps? I'm paranoid about getting under a car that is just jacked up.
07-16-2020
Spencer518 wrote
Would you be able to get the it high enough with a pair of Rhino Ramps? I'm paranoid about getting under a car that is just jacked up.
If I "really" squoze myself.... I could have done it with just the air suspension at it's highest setting. I chose not to because I kept having to get out, and crawl back under for various reasons. If I had all my tools in advance, and didn't need to keep crawling out, I could have done it without jacking it at all.

I only needed to jack it up about 3 inches. Not much at all. Ramps will be more than sufficient.
07-28-2020
Thanks for the very detailed and clear write-up!
Just a small word of warning for people thinking of replacing a scheduled service with a diy oil change (I realise this is not what you did here, just sharing a personal experience):
About 4 years ago I purchased a golf GTI, 2 years old with 3000 miles on the clock, which had been a demo car of a VW garage. I clearly negotiated with them to do the first service despite the low mileage before taking delivery of the car, however after owning the car for a few weeks I noticed there was no service stamp in the maintenance booklet.
Stupidly, as the garage was 3 hours drive from my place, I decided to just change the oil myself and call it a day, as the 2 year factory warranty had run out anyway and the 6 month warrantly I got with the purchase was with that same garage anyway.
A few weeks ago, 4 years later, the timing chain failed on that engine with 20.000 miles on the clock. Normally, VW would have paid for 70% of the cost as a timing chain is not supposed to fail at such a low mileage, however due to the missing stamp in the service booklet, I now have to cough up the full 10.000€ myself.
I imagine BMW would have a similar policy...
07-28-2020
VW requires oil service at 10,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. If the first oil service wasn't done until the car was 2 years old, you would have most likely been denied warranty coverage, even with the stamp.

In the US, as long as you have receipts for the materials, in this case oil and filter, that meet the manufacturer's specifications for compatibility and are dated within a reasonable time of the expected service, you can perform the work yourself. You do not need a stamp. You do not need actual proof that you performed the service. The warranty must be honored.
07-28-2020
Thanks, very interesting and valuable info! I did indeed keep those receipts for oil and filter with the service booklet, but alas, no joy in Europe.

Oh, and I did write to VW Germany about my case, and here is an extract from their reply in attachment:
An image attached to this post, provided by the poster
08-31-2020
Ninefourteener wrote

Good luck! Ask questions if you have any!
Awesome write up. Thanks. You have a dip stick? What engine do you have N63TU? N63TU1?

Can the same procedure be used for the S63TU engine?
09-01-2020
Turbobusa wrote
Awesome write up. Thanks. You have a dip stick? What engine do you have N63TU? N63TU1?

Can the same procedure be used for the S63TU engine?
N63TU3, and yes, I have a dipstick.

I've never worked on an S63, but 99% of the differences are internal... so I believe all the same procedures will apply.
03-10-2021
Ninefourteener wrote
Step 11; Select the best oil that money can buy (Royal Purple) if you're a real man that loves your car.

If you're a cheapskate that doesn't care about your car.... just use some other substandard oil found at Walmart..... You can grab it next time you pick up your monthly supply of Summer's Eve vaginal deodorant spray.

:) Yea.... I said it..... shots fired..... whatcha got? LOL :)

0W30 is the recommended weight. I intentionally went with 0W40 for the summertime to add a bit more protection during startup. Obviously not "required", just my personal preference.

(Mini-rant) I've witnessed (and smelled) what happened to Mobil1 after 20-minute long, grueling, highly abusive lap-battle track sessions. It was black and smelled like burning tires. I switched to Royal Purple in 2008 after seeing (and smelling) it under the same circumstances. Fresh, unburnt, and still purple. I've sworn by it ever since, and use it exclusively, even on commuters/daily drivers. It is ABSOLUTELY worth the extra money. (end rant)
Any reason you didn't go with the XPR line 0w-30 RP?
03-11-2021
I wonder how you guys fill up the right amount of oil without the dip stick?
do you put 9Q then run the idrive oil meas and then add 1/2 by 1/2 and check the system?
overfilling will be a disaster for sure, how you guys avoid that?
03-15-2021
hdahman wrote
I wonder how you guys fill up the right amount of oil without the dip stick?
do you put 9Q then run the idrive oil meas and then add 1/2 by 1/2 and check the system?
overfilling will be a disaster for sure, how you guys avoid that?
Our cars have dipsticks.

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