I received some requests for DSP settings. Let me post them here.
Input routing
Input EQ
Fronts, Rears, Surrounds and the Center are getting different factory signal from the Harman system.
They also have built in crossovers (signal drop) to protect the factory speakers.
You can do several things:
- 1: leave the inputs as is
- 2: EQ them to be similar/same
- 3: make a flat-ish signal -> !!! after which you will have to watch out for crossovers since you are removing the factory protection !!!
I picked route No. 2.
I EQd the input signals, and got the Fronts, Rears, Surrounds, Center to be the same... more or less...
Flat-is signal
With the Match UP DSP, you can combine inputs signals to create a Flat-ish signal.
Front + Woofer can be combined to get a combined signal.
It won't actually be flat, as the Woofer signal has a rising signal from 160Hz down to 32Hz, and below it starts dropping.
Notes:
- combine Front L + Woofer L -> not perfect, but goo enough
- EQing your inputs, then combine them ->you can get a nicer looking signal
- if you want a close to flat signal: EQ your Inputs + adjust Woofer level + combining it with the Front
Input EQs
If anyone is interested, I can post my EQ settings for the Inputs.
Let me know.
Important
Logic 7 Enabled vs. Logic 7 Disabled have very different signals.
I have Logic 7 off.
Time Alignment
This one is critical, as bad time alignment will mess things up.
Notes:
- factory inputs have built-in delays
- factory input delays depend on the Logic7 setting (ON/OFF)
- physical distances add on top of all this
MY setting below is for 688 option, iDrive7,
Logic7 OFF.
The Front, Rear, Surround, Center delays should work well.
Unfortunately the Bass part is a bit tricky... so my Woofer TA settings (channel I and J) probably will not work for you.
In case of the Woofers, note the 1.83 ms time difference between the two.
This is important to get the 2 in time, measured from the driver's seat.
Then, You can group the Woofers together, and start moving them relative to all other speakers.
As you move them together (keeping the 1.83ms between the two), but move them relative to the other speakers, you should notice a difference. If will either get better, or worse.
Move them by 0.1-0.2ms... you can go 2ms either way (up or down).
If you have a Mic, and use Pink Noise, you can actually see what is happening.
And you need to find a spot where they sound the best (getting their phase to match the rest of the system).
The Woofers are a bit challenging. But... moving them can get you close...
One last piece of the puzzle:
Phase
This one is tricky, because with all the speakers in the car/the passive crossovers, speaker phases are not perfect.
I measured phase. And adding a 2nd order All-Pass filter to the Front L speaker, fixes the Front stage.
Give it a try.
Try the following on the Front L speaker:
- All-Pass / 2nd order
- @480Hz / Q=2
Of course, these are just Settings/numbers.
Without context, they may not mean much.
Feel free to ask.