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      04-29-2020, 03:46 PM   #98
skalberti
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Drives: 2017 Mineral White M3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPD NXS View Post
I just completed the swap and honestly I spent more time cleaning my calipers and putting a coat of wax on them than the actual pad change out.

I used the PowerStop pad numbers at the first of the thread. The ones listed on the PowerStop site where wrong, but maybe that has changed. Order the pads at the first of the thread and you'll be good to go. I got mine from Summit Racing.

Use the TIS directions link that I believe is on the second page of this thread and you can't go wrong.

REMEMBER TO ACTIVATE THE PARKING BRAKE BEFORE YOU TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL! I did the front passenger side first, then the front driver's side; then activated the park brake and you can hear it compress the pads and index the system.

I also did the front first, hit the park brake; and then did the rear and hit the park brake, because I did my front one afternoon, and then did the rears the next morning.

The only small issue I had was getting the factory pads unstuck from the caliper because they have a sticky adhesive on the back which is pointed out in the TIS directions, but you just need to get a screwdriver in there and gently work it around and they eventually popped out. You can hear the adhesive letting go as you work them. Don't scratch the caliper or pry hard against the painted surface!

I had the most success by using a flat blade screwdriver between the pad wear surface and simply wedging the pistons all the way back in first. Then the pins and X spring came out much easier. It doesn't take much effort at all.

This method doesn't require a c-clamp or anything because you can get them all the way in before driving out the pins.

I also cleaned the heck out of the calipers with brake cleaner and a toothbrush, then simple green and a tooth brush; and then wiped it all down and put a coat of wax on them. I also cleaned the back side of my wheels really good and put a coat of wax on them also.

I used Disc Brake Quiet on the back of my pads, which I do on every brake job I do, which is very similar to the adhesive on the back of the OEM pads. I'm not sure you need it but I have never had a problem with disc brake noise ever, so it is standard for me.

I held the brake pedal down firmly for at least a minute to seat the Disc Brake Quiet like in the TIS directions for the OEM adhesive on the front, and then later after I did the back.

If you do use it, then look at the adhesive pattern on the back of the OEM pads and duplicate it because if you put it all over the back of the new pads you will see it at the front of the pad and through one of drain holes at the rear of the pad because it is red.

I also used caliper grease that you can get from any parts store like in the TIS directions, and also put a little bit on the horizontal X spring pads that touch the brake pads. I thoroughly cleaned the pins and the X spring before I reinstalled them. Soap, water and a toothbrush.

I did not change my wear sensors. There is only one on each axle. The front is on the driver's side pad.

I also used a little anti-seize on the lug bolts and the torque spec is 140 NM, which is 103 Ft./lbs.

I bedded the pads in per the PowerStop directions on their site and they are absolutely quiet and the pedal feel is identical to the OEM pads.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SPD NXS View Post
I just completed the swap and honestly I spent more time cleaning my calipers and putting a coat of wax on them than the actual pad change out.

I used the PowerStop pad numbers at the first of the thread. The ones listed on the PowerStop site where wrong, but maybe that has changed. Order the pads at the first of the thread and you'll be good to go. I got mine from Summit Racing.

Use the TIS directions link that I believe is on the second page of this thread and you can't go wrong.

REMEMBER TO ACTIVATE THE PARKING BRAKE BEFORE YOU TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL! I did the front passenger side first, then the front driver's side; then activated the park brake and you can hear it compress the pads and index the system.

I also did the front first, hit the park brake; and then did the rear and hit the park brake, because I did my front one afternoon, and then did the rears the next morning.

The only small issue I had was getting the factory pads unstuck from the caliper because they have a sticky adhesive on the back which is pointed out in the TIS directions, but you just need to get a screwdriver in there and gently work it around and they eventually popped out. You can hear the adhesive letting go as you work them. Don't scratch the caliper or pry hard against the painted surface!

I had the most success by using a flat blade screwdriver between the pad wear surface and simply wedging the pistons all the way back in first. Then the pins and X spring came out much easier. It doesn't take much effort at all.

This method doesn't require a c-clamp or anything because you can get them all the way in before driving out the pins.

I also cleaned the heck out of the calipers with brake cleaner and a toothbrush, then simple green and a tooth brush; and then wiped it all down and put a coat of wax on them. I also cleaned the back side of my wheels really good and put a coat of wax on them also.

I used Disc Brake Quiet on the back of my pads, which I do on every brake job I do, which is very similar to the adhesive on the back of the OEM pads. I'm not sure you need it but I have never had a problem with disc brake noise ever, so it is standard for me.

I held the brake pedal down firmly for at least a minute to seat the Disc Brake Quiet like in the TIS directions for the OEM adhesive on the front, and then later after I did the back.

If you do use it, then look at the adhesive pattern on the back of the OEM pads and duplicate it because if you put it all over the back of the new pads you will see it at the front of the pad and through one of drain holes at the rear of the pad because it is red.

I also used caliper grease that you can get from any parts store like in the TIS directions, and also put a little bit on the horizontal X spring pads that touch the brake pads. I thoroughly cleaned the pins and the X spring before I reinstalled them. Soap, water and a toothbrush.

I did not change my wear sensors. There is only one on each axle. The front is on the driver's side pad.

I also used a little anti-seize on the lug bolts and the torque spec is 140 NM, which is 103 Ft./lbs.

I bedded the pads in per the PowerStop directions on their site and they are absolutely quiet and the pedal feel is identical to the OEM pads.

Thanks for verifying that hitting the emergency brake before touching the brake pedal won't throw any errors. I wish I had known this and it would've saved me a trip to the dealership. Since I was the first to do the brake swap, I took one for the team
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