Quote:
Originally Posted by 4ML INC
Watched a few videos on Youtube about this particular coating and it's gotten great reviews. Pan The Organizer gave it the best non-pro graphene rating and has used it on his gf's car. There were few other reviews who gave it very good reviews and tested it after a few months and it seemed to hold up pretty good. So, just going by that.
As far as detailing the car - I was thinking - since it's a brand new car and it's mineral white - I will inspect the paint and if it really doesn't need polishing - I'll just skip clay-ing and polishing. I already told the dealership to not prep or wash it and since it's coming straight from factory - hopefully it won't have a lot of days sitting in the sun and rain.
Plan is - to wash the car (first rinse-less + then use foam gun + 2 bucket wash) + chemical decontamination with iron remover + paint prep spray + apply 2 coatings and leave the car in my garage for 48 hours.
Of course - if I find the paint needs to be polished - then your idea sounds like a good way to go about it. Practice and get it right before applying a long term coating. I do have a friend who does wax coating on his cars - maybe I'll get him to help me but kind of want to do it on my own.
Am I wrong to skip the clay-ing and polishing if the paint looks to be in great condition?
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I gotta be honest - 95% of this sounds... not ideal
Kinda hard to know where to start ... Maybe some principles:
* Pan is paid for his videos - doesn't mean his content is bad, just know he's paid to say what does, i.e., it's "ad-vertorial" content
For my 2 cents, I'd never use glassparency - no reason to try something so far off the beaten path when there's so many good alternatives. And you don't need "graphene". I'd pick a well known brand with well known customer support. McKee's 37 or P&S from The Rag Company (or gyeon or esoteric or or or). Also, like I said, I'd start with something a bit less permanent given a low experience level.
* Strip wash - chemical removal BEFORE a contact wash
The whole idea of strip wash is to get as much dirt as possible off before you touch the paint; you can't do a strip wash with pH neutral soap, so you'll need to use something harsher / more alkaline ... that's a whole can o' worms. Personally I use Superior Products Road Warrior or Pink Perfection.
* Decon - chemical removal BEFORE a contact wash
This is where you'd use your iron remover ... don't do that in the Sun ... or any of this frankly
And you gotta wash your car after using an iron remover so I'd probably do it after a strip wash & before a contact wash. Thing is, it can stain your paint.
* Washing is to abrate off dirt while doing as little damage / marring as possible
Thus if you're going to foam cannon & rinse then do that FIRST. Also, there's no need to do a no-rinse wash and then a 2 bucket wash; only one of them is needed and if you're going to do a 2 bucket then just do that.
* Claying removes embedded particles due to heat cycles, i.e, expansion/contraction of your car while it has dirt on it
The odds a new car needs to be clayed is pretty small - to know, wash it, then use a rubber glove to feel the surface or your hand in a baggie or a credit card pulled over the surface. If you feel bumps then it needs claying, if not then no. Further, claying WILL MAR YOUR PAINT.
For my 2 cents, I'd never mar the paint of a new car unless I was planning on full polish and had the expertise & tools to do it. A good complete set of polishing equipment will be at least $2k. You can go cheaper but you'll get a crappier job. If you've never polished a car before you absolutely shouldn't be starting now. As to the inspection, especially on a white car ... well, unless you're a pro, it won't do anything for you.
* IPA I hesitate to mention this one, but a good IPA wipe down with 50/50 can be very helpful in totally cleaning the paint in prep for a coating.
Net-Net:
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based on what you've written you're 90% likely to cause more damage than you're fixing. Just telling you straight.
Take it slow & you'll win the race. Spray off the car, do a good strip wash & skip the decon, do a very careful one-direction-aligned-with-wind wash top to bottom ... meaning literally. Use one sponge for the hood, roof & windows, a 2nd for the doors & side panels, and then a 3rd for the bottom 1/3 of the car. lightly pull in one direction.
Dry off with a drying aide - if you don't, that's where 90% of your paint marring will come from. Use one. If you skipped everything else, this is the one most important thing!
If you use something like Turtle Wax's Flex Wax as your drying aide it'll be awesome and last for a good month or two. During that time you can do a few washes and see how it's going. When you have your process down pat, then put on a good ceramic after using something like Mckee 37 rinseless wash as a drying aide.
or not & just keep using TWFW or similar (meguire's flex wax is good too). There's really no reason for a ceramic unless you're lazy (meaning you need the long-term chemical protection because you don't wash/protect your car often)