[Dasky_spas]

Originally Posted by TOMMYX12

Nope. Just worked behind it and used a mirror to see what I was doing.

Mine is a bit different given I'm not in a x3 or x5- mine is a m850. The I don't see how you could duplicate what you did with the bondo filler.

[christwinzbmw]

Originally Posted by boneca

as promised some pictures:

1-2 photos - 14" zip ties installed on driver's side (passenger side broke next day after I made previous post)

3 photo - the plastic bars which aluminium bar screws into

4 photo - the 30" zip ties I received are much thicker (heavy duty) and I had to make holes wider

5 picture, the motor (shutters closed)

6-7 photos - new 30" heavy duty zip ties installed, in testing stage, had some errors right after install (blockage when the ambient temperature is warm), cleared it, haven't seeing it since.

Will update in couple of days.

Been reading your post on the shutter delete. Have you solved the CEL issue with them? Any luck with perfecting the zip ties?

[boneca]

Originally Posted by christwinzbmw

Been reading your post on the shutter delete. Have you solved the CEL issue with them? Any luck with perfecting the zip ties?

well yes and no.
I don't get CEL anymore for few months now but always have bimmercode ready just in case.

the error is stored in the memory but as I mentioned above it doesn't come up anymore and its a win in my book.

I have drove about 2k miles since and no issues as well.

As far as zip ties goes, no real update here, I believe since my last updated I ended up putting motor arms back in place and used medium size zip ties.

at the end its a trial and error game, it seems to have worked for me for now.

good luck with urs!

[yoandry]

Originally Posted by TOMMYX12

Had to fill in where that wheel turns and runs the test to prevent it from turning 360 just enough to pretend to the car that it's still in place and opening and closing for that motor wheel. Plastic Weld from Amazon. Been holding for 2 years now. No worries about zip ties.

Hey man,
I been trying for a few days now on different fill positions but I haven't get the right one yet. The picture you send is actually the right fill you have it working right now or some from when you were trying? It's damn sensitive this thing. I may have to put back flaps and try to mark where is the close point exactly. The open position seems to be set depending on the close position set. Cuz I have fill way past the close position and it stop always before unless I move the close position more or less fill.

[yoandry]

Update. I was able to do mine finally. So far so good.
All this time I was playing with filling the spot with different materials but I could never get the exctact point of the stop when closing /opening.
So instead of me deciding where the stop points were, I let the system do it for me. Boom first try susecfull. lol
I just filled the circle 80% of weld putty, put back the system and run it. The platic that hold the shutter has a little tab that act as stop, so it put the putty where it needed to be and hardened in minutes. So you need to work fast or get something that allow you to work more but does not move when working.
I will create a diy if needed

[Dasky_spas]

Originally Posted by maximking

Done a few cars last week G06,G07 , no issues after the coding . if need help can be done remotely

Did you get rid of the 3 codes with coding? Mine is a 19 g15

138224
138802
21B057

I'm getting the drivetrain errors, cel, and now no heat and ambient temperature is not accurate. Not sure if the last 2 are related but seems to be.

[TheNine90]

Originally Posted by Dasky_spas

Did you get rid of the 3 codes with coding? Mine is a 19 g15

138224
138802
21B057

I'm getting the drivetrain errors, cel, and now no heat and ambient temperature is not accurate. Not sure if the last 2 are related but seems to be.

Sometimes flaps can be coded out. If you have enet cable i can try code them out remotely.

[boneca]

I started to get CEL few days ago after not seeing it for awhile (I can't say I never seen it but maybe once in a couple of months which was fine) this time around I started getting it again and it would come back next start.

Sure enough my zip ties broke quick fix and new ones in place, original set lasted me 6 months (medium size zip ties)

just FYI

p.s. after not seeing CEL for a while I stopped checking that my code reader properly connected as well I stopped checking zip ties, so when I saw the CEL again it took me few days to check the zip ties again

[Dasky_spas]

Originally Posted by boneca

I started to get CEL few days ago after not seeing it for awhile (I can't say I never seen it but maybe once in a couple of months which was fine) this time around I started getting it again and it would come back next start.

Sure enough my zip ties broke quick fix and new ones in place, original set lasted me 6 months (medium size zip ties)

just FYI

p.s. after not seeing CEL for a while I stopped checking that my code reader properly connected as well I stopped checking zip ties, so when I saw the CEL again it took me few days to check the zip ties again

You're able to do this without taking off the bumper?

[boneca]

Originally Posted by Dasky_spas

You're able to do this without taking off the bumper?

do what? change zip ties - yes

I did remove front bumper when I removed the shutters but it was along with other job I was doing there.

[Blueboxer]

Originally Posted by Blueboxer

Worked on my buddy's X3 m40i this week, we ended up removing all of the slats other than the first and last one so the trays that hold them from the top and bottom remained in tack as well as the actuator. This worked initially, but it looks as if the motor is sensitive enough to notice the decreased resistance of the missing slats, which is surprising considering they couldn't way more than 20-30 grams. We ended up using a pencil lead weight secured to the furthest slat on each side with thermowrap, and used the same thermowrap to hide the hideous crossbars as well. Several drives later and still no CEL and it is entirely reversible.

This method has worked flawless since we did it, seems everyone else is still trying to fine tune other stuff, but wanted to repost it in case someone else wanted to try it.

[Dasky_spas]

Originally Posted by Blueboxer

This method has worked flawless since we did it, seems everyone else is still trying to fine tune other stuff, but wanted to repost it in case someone else wanted to try it.

I will try this. I'm not excited bc I'm imagining that the flaps will be too easily visible. Would you mind sharing some pics?

[Blueboxer]

Originally Posted by Dasky_spas

I will try this. I'm not excited bc I'm imagining that the flaps will be too easily visible. Would you mind sharing some pics?

I don't have any pics, it was my buddy's car, but overall it looked pretty clean. We just left the most outter slates so it wasn't too obvious.

[Dasky_spas]

Originally Posted by Blueboxer

I don't have any pics, it was my buddy's car, but overall it looked pretty clean. We just left the most outter slates so it wasn't too obvious.

To nine90, appreciate that offer to code it out. I may follow up on that offer if it is still open.

For the customized shutter, if you run into your bud again, please take some pics! I already posted a used shutter from ebay to experiment with.

[Dasky_spas]

Those of you wth the shutter issue, are you getting a drivetrain issue message ( the little 🔧 symbol) saying driving possible but reduced power?

[Dasky_spas]

Originally Posted by TOMMYX12

So I'm trying to figure this out and I just want to make sure I'm not missing something that might be simple. I have removed the front kidney grille shutters, motor is still present and cycling as if the shutters were still there opening and closing.
Received engine light for the error code on the AKKS for the upper and lower stop limits not recognized which was expected without coding it off.

Fast forward, coded off with Esys as there are two variations to the coding depending on the build date, either way both variations of the coding were checked to make sure it was coded off in the DME.

Now the upper stop limit reset itself after errors were cleared out and upon next startup engine light popped a error code again, still have a code showing for the lower stop not recognized. I understand these work hand and hand for the air-cooling flap controls and only had to do with upper flaps but still getting the lower code even with everything coded off. The one recommendation was to completely disconnect the power connecters to the motors on the upper and lower flaps so there won’t be any chance of signal back to the ECU.

Thinking something might be missing from the second variation due to the build date on mine being after 7/20. Currently the AKKS is reading 00 and the LKS_OBEN and LKS_UNTEN is reading 00 as well. Any insight would be appreciated, thank you in advance. Below is what was followed:

For disabling shutters:

Code AKKS in DME. The item is coded as Wert_02 [02] for all X3 and X4 models except the X3M and the X4M. For the true M versions, which don't have active grilles, the value of AKKS is Wert_00 [00]. The E-Sys comment for AKKS reads "Kommentar=CP283394 automatische Kuehlluftklappensteuerung - (AKKS) bzw. Luftklappensteuerung - (LKS) 0x00 - Nicht verbaut - KOM-Diagnose nicht aktiv 0x01 - Verbaut oben - KOM-Diagnose aktiv 0x02 - Verbaut oben+unten - KOM-Diagnose aktiv 0x03 - Default, Initwert, Nicht codiert (KOM-Diagnose trotzdem aktiv) Label: CodVar_stAKKS" which translates to "Comment = CP283394 automatic cooling air flap control - (AKKS) or air flap control - (LKS)
0x00 - not installed - COM diagnosis not active
0x01 - installed above - COM diagnosis active
0x02 - installed above + below - COM diagnosis active
0x03 - default, Init value, not coded (COM diagnosis still active)
Label: CodVar_stAKKS."

-Up until build date 07/20 it will stay in S15A: Change param "AKKS" (AktiveKühlKlappenSteuerung - ActiveCoolingFlapControl) to 0x01 which means shutters only on top (0x00 is for no flaps, 0x02 is for top & bottom and 0x03 is not used)

-Beginning with build date 07/20 it will move to S18A: Parameters will be divided and there will be one for:
--"LKS_OBEN" which means LüftungsKlappenSteuerung_Oben or AirFlapControl_Top
--"LKS_UNTEN" which means LüftungsKlappenSteuerung_Unten or AirFlapControl_Bottom
Both can only be enabled or disabled (0x01 or 0x00)

Your radiator fan still functioned as intended?

Did the coding solution stick or did the error codes come back? I think the dme software version may also affect the success in coding out the error, with the recent update preventing coding out the issue. That's my assumption right be anyways.

[TexasBruiser]

GM, Sir - Ran across this thread trying to avoid $$$ in repairs for a simple but s**T CEL error. It's the active grilles - lower and upper on my early 2016 G12. I'm an electrical engineer and tested that part. Clearing the "codes" - the DTCs with regular scan tools does not work as these grille codes are stored in the ECM/BCM and not related to emissions.

I put in new OEM actuators after verifying 13.5V and 3.0V (wires and plugs ok).

Still get the CEL light. Tried a suggested trick of undoing the batteries and touching the + and - leads to bleed off any charges. Nope.

The shop also wants $200 to "code" new grilles (at a cost for those of $800 due to markups).

I am trying to install ISTA+ and all from ShawnSheridan. Would not work natively on Win 10, so had to create a virtual machine for WIN XP SP3 and try to run it there...

Did YOU do any coding? If, so, did you record t he steps AND does deactivating the active grille feedback loops affect anything else? Without a "helper" how did you verify the actuators working when they are off the car (a pain in the butt, BTW)?

I get the zip ties, but the exact force is not published - and is minimal anyway. My existing grilles (without the actuators attached) are very smooth operating, so not understanding why the new actuators are not opening and closing them UNLESS a software code or ISTA+ reset is needed to clear the code that is automatically stopping good parts from functioning. If so, that is just BIZARRE and a way for BMW to pump up profits.

[Dasky_spas]

What codes were you guys getting? I don't believe anyone put their codes in their posts. After trying different iterations of trying to fix it, I now have no cel though there are two codes p05a1 and p05b0. Before I had all types of different akks codes.

I think some codes can coded out and maybe some not. TBD right now but if anyone had the two codes coded out, please let us know. I don't think it's possible to get o2 readiness unless these codes are gone.

[scottminor]

Has anyone found a way to code this out and not use zip ties?

If I can code this out, can I disconnect the motor?

[BimmerWu]

try Bootmod3 or MG Flasher ？