[roxxor]

Since BMW got cheap/had supply issues and removed the Gesture Control from the 2023 G05 models, this was one of the first mods I wanted to do. While some see it as gimmicky, I enjoyed the quick ease of pausing the radio/other functions with it, and since I had retrofitted it to my G01 a few years ago, I was already familiar with how to do it. Pictures shown are from the G01 retrofit I did as the process/parts are exactly the same.

DISCLAIMER: As with all DIY projects, undertake this at your own risk. I am not responsible for anything that happens to you or your car!

***NOTE: This retrofit requires coding which cannot be done via Bimmercode/Carly and will require E-Sys. Please see the coding section towards the end for more details ***

Pre-Requisites: From what I can tell none, as you can choose the applicable Roof Module with Gesture Control based on your other installed options

Parts List: (Note: Part #’s may vary per vehicle. Check RealOEM or other parts lists to confirm correct Part #’s for your vehicle)

- Roof Function Center – There are several variants of this part depending on what options your G05 has, but a pretty straightforward list can be found on RealOEM here. Make sure you select one that has the Gesture Control camera. The particular part # I used was part #61316986144. The parts are the same between the G05, G06, G01, G02, G30, and G20, and can usually be found for around the $150-$200 range.
- Nano-MQS Bushing Contact – Qty. 2 - 61139230107
- Bushing/Socket Contact – Qty. 2 – 61130005197

Tools Required:
- Socket Set with 10mm socket
- Hex/T set – This project requires a T-15 and T-25 bit for removing the Roof Control Module and the Passenger Side A-Pillar
- Flat Screwdriver
- Pry tool
- Wire Stripper
- Wire connectors/solder depending on your preference
- 2 different colors of 18-20 gauge wire (alternatively, you can use different color electrical tape/labels to identify wires)
- Standard black electrical tape or BMW Fabric Wiring Tape

Prep Work:
- Disconnect Negative Terminal from Battery – Make sure sunroof is closed(if equipped), all doors are unlocked, and trunk is open first ***NOTE: Some models have a second battery in the engine bay area. If yours has this, make sure to disconnect it as well***
- Remove the Passenger side Under Dash Panel. Turn the 2 twist-knobs, then pull down and forward to remove. Disconnect the wiring to the light.
- Remove all floor trim pieces along the front Passenger side of the vehicle (the door cover piece and the piece covering the BDC Module)
- Remove the black trim piece on the Passenger side A-Pillar marked “Airbag”, then use the T-25 to remove the screw underneath. This will allow you to remove the A-Pillar trim.

Removing the old Roof Function Module:
- Using a flat head screwdriver or small pry tool, insert into one end of the slotted trim piece of the Roof Module, as shown below, then gently pull upwards. This will loosen the trim piece so you can remove it by hand.

- Next, using the T-15 bit, remove the two screws securing the Roof Module. Once removed, use the flat head screwdriver to push in on the 2 release tabs to loosen the Roof Module, as shown below:



- Lastly, disconnect all 4 wiring connectors, and set the old module aside.



Creating and running the Wiring Harness:
Models with Gesture Control have 2 additional wires that connect from the Roof Control Module to the BDC Module. We will start by making this wiring.

- Using your 18-20 gauge wiring, take two wires and connect the two Nano-MQS Bushing Contacts to them. This end of the wiring harness will go to the Roof Control Module.
- Connect the two wires into the 18-pin Black Connector you removed from the Roof Module. Make sure you mark your wires or use different colors so you know which wire is which when you get to the BDC.
- Pin #6 – This wire will run to Pin 52 at the BDC Connector A258*8B
- Pin #17 – This wire will run to Pin 51 at the BDC Connector A258*8B



- After connecting these wires, feed them through to the front edge of the roofliner so you can reach them by gently pulling down on the liner. This will allow you to start running the wiring down the A-Pillar and to the BDC module. How you choose to secure the wiring as you run it is up to you. I personally wrap the entire length of wiring I’m running to make it look clean like a factory harness, then secure it to the factory harness it runs along at several points.
- Now that you are at the BDC, you can trim/cut the excess wiring off of your harness, and attach the two larger Bushing Contacts to your wires.
- Unplug connector A258*8B from the BDC Module, shown in the picture below, and slide off the covering cap.



- Insert the two wires as listed above to Pin #51 and Pin #52, ensuring you are connecting the correct wires into the slots.
- Once the wires are inserted, you can reconnect A258*8B back into the BDC Module.
- You can now reinstall all trim pieces that were removed during the Prep Work Section.

Installing the new Roof Function Module and Wiring:
- Connect the 4 connectors to the new Roof Module.
- Slide the module in and push up to secure it into the roof lining.
- Replace the 2 T-15 screws to secure the new Roof Module into the roof lining.
- Replace the plastic trim piece on the new Roof Module.

At this point, all connections are completed and everything physically should be in place, now on to the coding!

Vehicle Coding:
Since you are replacing a module in the car, this will require creating the CAFD files for the module, as well as VO-Coding. To the best of my knowledge, this cannot be done with Bimmercode/Carly, and will require you to use E-Sys in order to complete.

- Reconnect the Negative Battery Terminal to restore power to the car
- Connect to the car via E-Sys. After connecting, the first step will be to add Option 6U8 to your FA. Follow the steps in the E-Sys learning guides if you are unfamiliar with how to complete this step
- Once you have updated your FA with the new option code, you will need to create 2 new Cafd files for your new FZD(roof) Module. However, you will need to know your car’s current I-Step Level first
- To find this, go to the Expert Mode-VCM Screen. Under I-Steps, click Read. Your current I-Step level will then be displayed, as shown below. Take down this information, and save for future reference if needed.

SHOWN FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY:


- Now, you can create the CAFD files. On the Expert Mode-Coding screen, if you click Read (ECU), you should now see the FZD listed as one of the modules on your car. However, it will be missing the CAFD files, or will have them, but with several ?????? in the name. Highlight the FZD, then click Detect CAF for SWE. When the window shown below comes up, you may have several options available:



- You will need to select the option that matches your car’s current I-Step Level, or is close to it. NOTE: The FZD requires both CAFD Files to be present. After finding the correct I-Step Level, hold down CTRL and select both CAFD options, and hit Ok. This will create the CAFD files for the FZD.
- Now all that is left is to VO Code the updated FA to the car. Activate the new modified FA. At a minimum, you will need to code the FZD, HU_MGU, and BDC modules. Personally, whenever I complete a retrofit, I code the new FA to all modules in the car in the event that there is something related to the new retrofit in that module that may have been missed. How you code is up to you, but by coding them all, it avoids the risk of missing something.

Sunroof Initialization:
- Press up on the Tilt part of the Sunroof button, and continue to hold until this process is finished. After around 20 seconds, the Sunroof will start to go through a complete opening/closing cycle, after which it will function again normally.

Testing/Reassembly of the car:
Once you have completed all coding, turn the car off then back on. You should now be able to test the Gesture Control features, and should be able to access the Gesture Control menu in iDrive, as well as the Animated Video about Gesture Controls. Once you are satisfied that it works, you can replace any remaining trim pieces in the car, and you are all done!

[weinerbarn]

This is great. I love seeing these detailed write-ups including the coding parts. That's the part that gets missed most of the time, although I do anticipate the where do I get E-Sys, how do install E-Sys and where do I get the psdzdata files from questions.

[roxxor]

Thanks, it was what I hope to be the first of many I post for the G05. And it’s a big reason why I went with the pre-LCI since coding on iDrive 8 hasn’t been figured out yet, and may never be with them moving to an online requirement.

[mlurker]

Finally, good DIY!

what app do you use to view the diagrams of modules etc.?

[skyetrax]

Originally Posted by roxxor

Since BMW got cheap/had supply issues and removed the Gesture Control from the 2023 G05 models, this was one of the first mods I wanted to do. While some see it as gimmicky, I enjoyed the quick ease of pausing the radio/other functions with it, and since I had retrofitted it to my G01 a few years ago, I was already familiar with how to do it. Pictures shown are from the G01 retrofit I did as the process/parts are exactly the same.

This is such a great write up. I'm going to try doing this in my 45e but it's been years since I used ESYS, I'll need to locate it again. I switched to Bimmercode for ease of use a couple cars ago. I hate to ask but any pointers on where to find it and which version will work for this? I don't mind purchasing if needed, just wanted a reputable place to get it.

I'm curious if you'd have any reservations about doing this on the hybrid since you mention disconnecting the battery. As I understand it you should be able to open the hood to disconnect the 48v system and disconnect both batteries in the trunk unless I'm mistaken.

[roxxor]

Honestly I use both TokenMaster’s Pro Launcher and BimmerUtility, either is fine. You can probably find free versions of it if you look around, but for me it wasn’t worth the hassle. I’d probably lean more towards BU just because it’s a quicker method of getting it, TokenMaster sometimes takes a while to respond.

And no reservations at all about it, I did several retrofits in my 530e as well without issue. The 48v though is for the mild hybrid. For the plug in hybrids, there is a disconnect for the high voltage system located towards the top right side of that same area where the second battery is located. You can see a picture of what it looks like here: https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/at...1&d=1612913881

I always disconnect that first, then the smaller battery below it, and lastly the larger main battery, and when reconnecting them I go large, small, then hybrid. You will need to use a small flathead screwdriver or similar tool to pull out the tab on the right side of the hybrid connector to allow you to push it back in.

[weinerbarn]

I paid for both TokenMaster Pro launcher and BimmerUtility. I would highly recommend BU. BU provides an app you can make all of your changes in, cheats, etc and then apply them in BU or E-Sys depending on what you are trying to accomplish. They will provide a link to download E-Sys for free. Don't pay for E-Sys. The $99 for BimmerUtility is lifetime and they have great updates and support. TM is like $60 for a few years but the updates are almost non-existent as is support if you have an issue. TM is a launcher which basically acts as a "skin" for E-Sys to add descriptions to the coding options. Mine currently doesn't even work and I've pretty much just written it off as yet another waste of money and lesson learned.

[skyetrax]

Thanks very much guys, I'll probably go with BU. I am a little nervous about doing it but I've been reading your instructions roxxor and it doesn't seem too terribly difficult. I got the new control unit in yesterday, so now I just need a free weekend to tackle this. I'll post an update when complete.

[skyetrax]

Originally Posted by roxxor

I always disconnect that first, then the smaller battery below it, and lastly the larger main battery, and when reconnecting them I go large, small, then hybrid. You will need to use a small flathead screwdriver or similar tool to pull out the tab on the right side of the hybrid connector to allow you to push it back in.

Thanks for the instructions on the batteries by the way, for some reason I missed the fact that you drove a 45e as well, I was thinking it was the 40i. Glad to hear it went smoothly.

[skyetrax]

Alright, coming back with my tail between my legs a bit here hoping for some help/pointers.

First, the positive: I made my first attempt at this last weekend and the teardown went great, I was able to get everything apart with minimal issue, being careful to use the proper pry tools, gloves etc really helped. I probably had everything apart in 30 minutes. The pointer on the high voltage connector helped too!

Now, the negative: Where I struggled a bit was the wiring. I got the correct Nano connectors for the headliner module and connectors for the BDC. I've never added pins to a harness like this though so I don't think I was doing it right. I basically attempted to solder 20AWG wire to one end of the new wires and press them into the headliner harness side connector, thinking they would simply click into place. They did not, and I ended up breaking the connectors off. What I'm wondering is if that wiring harness needs to be opened from the front to allow the wires in? I've been watching other videos on the more generic harnesses and this seems to be the case (photo below of the wiring harness and my two wires). Am I at least on the right track soldering this together, I'm assuming there's not another part number with wire already connected.



Second, I just wanted to make sure I was on the right track at the BDC side based on the diagram posted. If I'm right, I just need to release the black connector at the BDC module and then insert the other end of the wire there to pins 51 and 52 as you mentioned. I just wanted to make sure I had the right connector. It's cramped down there and hard to read anything well. Thanks for any help...I feel like I'm nearly there.

[roxxor]

Hey so hopefully this helps. On the Roof connector, if you notice there is a white/gray looking piece at the middle of the black connector. You will need to slide this out in order to allow the pins to push into the connector.

For the BDC connector, lower the green bar down which will loosen the connector. Once you take it out, you will need to remove the covering cap to get access to the pin slots. Unlike the roof module, there isn't anything extra securing them in once you take the cap off, so you will be able to just insert those pins in place and then put the cap back on, and reconnect it to the BDC.

[skyetrax]

Originally Posted by roxxor

Hey so hopefully this helps. On the Roof connector, if you notice there is a white/gray looking piece at the middle of the black connector. You will need to slide this out in order to allow the pins to push into the connector.

For the BDC connector, lower the green bar down which will loosen the connector. Once you take it out, you will need to remove the covering cap to get access to the pin slots. Unlike the roof module, there isn't anything extra securing them in once you take the cap off, so you will be able to just insert those pins in place and then put the cap back on, and reconnect it to the BDC.

I think this is the info I was missing, thanks very much. I'll give this a try next weekend, need to order some more connectors