[MDBMW76]

I have a 2022 X5MC with just over 6300 miles on it which has lost its aggressive acceleration. It’s nearly impossible to out accelerate anyone out of a traffic light and when I down shift to 6th on the highway to pass there is very little torque or pull. It revs up to 3,000 and above but takes a while to pick up speed. Big difference from the when I drove it off the lot and after the break in period.

So far three trips to the dealership and each time a different code is picked up. While I haven’t had a check engine light come on, these are the codes they’ve found and the resolution. Even after all this, it’s still having poor acceleration.

• 14401D Super Knocking & 152D08 Fuel Injection Deactivation – Resolution replaced fuel injector for cylinder 6
• 10171E Throttle valve 2 spring does not open – TSARA approved replacement of the left throttle actuator

Originally, I thought I had an issue with the transmission as the car would jump when shifting into reverse or drive from park which didn’t seem normal to me. I traded in my 2019 X5 5.0 M-Sport for this last summer and didn’t experience the same with that one though there are some mechanical differences between the two versions. I still have an issue with it taking a while to engage into reverse after it’s set overnight (cold start) and when backing out of the garage it feels like the transmission keeps slipping into neutral, stops, and then locks back on to continue reversing. It will also do this when sitting on an incline for a bit (less than an hour). The dealer said this was related to the above issues, but it did it again this today. I read in another forum that this could be contributed to low transmission fluid another problem with the transmission or torque converter.

See videos:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B-A...usp=drive_link

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10hS...usp=drive_link

Any thoughts on what maybe going on? Could I have two separate issues going on? I bit bummed with this as I don’t have that many miles on it to be having so many issues early on.

[-cj-]

Wow, definitely not normal (as you know).

What happens if you disable traction control completely?

Sometimes I get a loss of power on the highway when I go to pass someone. Even in manual, in 3 or 4th gear, it feels like the car is stuck in a higher gear and doesn’t want to accelerate like it’s capable of. I ASSUMED (perhaps incorrectly, given your scenario) it was taking time to switch maps as I notice this when hitting my M2 button, which is nearly all settings maxed. Even with the pedal to the floor, which should trigger a kick down even in comfort mode. The 2 or 3 times this has happened, it goes away after a few seconds. In all cases, I was driving the car very civilized leading up to this..

This probably doesn’t help you, but please let us know what the dealer finds..

[Bimmersurfer]

Originally Posted by MDBMW76

I have a 2022 X5MC with just over 6300 miles on it which has lost its aggressive acceleration. It’s nearly impossible to out accelerate anyone out of a traffic light and when I down shift to 6th on the highway to pass there is very little torque or pull. It revs up to 3,000 and above but takes a while to pick up speed. Big difference from the when I drove it off the lot and after the break in period.

So far three trips to the dealership and each time a different code is picked up. While I haven’t had a check engine light come on, these are the codes they’ve found and the resolution. Even after all this, it’s still having poor acceleration.

• 14401D Super Knocking & 152D08 Fuel Injection Deactivation – Resolution replaced fuel injector for cylinder 6
• 10171E Throttle valve 2 spring does not open – TSARA approved replacement of the left throttle actuator

Originally, I thought I had an issue with the transmission as the car would jump when shifting into reverse or drive from park which didn’t seem normal to me. I traded in my 2019 X5 5.0 M-Sport for this last summer and didn’t experience the same with that one though there are some mechanical differences between the two versions. I still have an issue with it taking a while to engage into reverse after it’s set overnight (cold start) and when backing out of the garage it feels like the transmission keeps slipping into neutral, stops, and then locks back on to continue reversing. It will also do this when sitting on an incline for a bit (less than an hour). The dealer said this was related to the above issues, but it did it again this today. I read in another forum that this could be contributed to low transmission fluid another problem with the transmission or torque converter.

See videos:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B-A...usp=drive_link

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10hS...usp=drive_link

Any thoughts on what maybe going on? Could I have two separate issues going on? I bit bummed with this as I don’t have that many miles on it to be having so many issues early on.

the loss of power sounds like what i had on my X4M. are there any other messages like limp home mode? it was like the turbos were bypassed and would not build boost, very noticable and annoying. Also do you have a code reader that is able to reset codes? I had to use one of these to clear it all up until the next code came in. It ended up being a sensor on the exhaust, something like a O2 sensor. the dealership was able to pick up the codes.

[Jeff J]

I had similar issues with our 2009 135i. Turned out one of the charge air lines had physically ruptured and prevented any boost from being built. It never threw a CEL. Both engines are twin turbo, but I don't know enough about how the turbos interact with the intake manifold on the S58 to offer a meaningful opinion on whether this could be what you're dealing with. Seems that physical damage would be easy to spot, and the on-board monitoring for something like that has to be worlds better these days.

[-cj-]

Totally different design, this is the S63/S68 engine. The turbos are squirrelled away in the middle of the engine (“hot V”) to minimize the piping.

While still possible that something is physically broken or cracked, at least in my case, it’s a temporary problem that goes away.

Describing it as the turbos building no boost is accurate.. it feels sluggish like you’re in too high of a gear or the wastegates are fully open and preventing you from building boost. Describing it as a broken charge pipe is also accurate I guess! Lots of possible reasons.

[Tejas1836]

With acceleration when this happens, what is your boost reading?

[TahoeM3]

I had a similar issue on an e92 M3. I knew there was a problem when I couldn’t pull past a Chrysler Sebring convertible on a freeway onramp. It turned out to he the differential. They changed out the fluid and it got much better.

This X5M does seem a little slower than my previous 2018 X5M and 2012 also. For example, today I had a lot of trouble pulling away from a Kia minivan that was riding my bumper, and the M felt like it was really struggling. It could be various factors…I was not in M mode and I was in the lowest transmission setting, but the power seemed low (I did not have the boost gauge pulled up, but will try that tomorrow). I just got it serviced last week, but it feels about 100hp short. I know that M5 test results have been very variable, so maybe the engine is very sensitive to how it’s being driven and is prone to cutting boost if you’re driving too conservatively. My wife drives it most days and she drives pretty slowly.

Another factor is that my daily driver is a Tesla Model S Plaid which throws off my sense of speed for other cars. In the Tesla, if you punch it, you’re a 1/4 mile ahead of the car behind you before they can even change lanes. So it could be normal, but I’m just adjusted to the Tesla.

[weinerbarn]

You should be able to log while driving and accelerating using a tool like BimmerLink. Then you'd be able to see the temps, boost, ignition timing, gear based on rpm and determine if it's pulling timing or boost for some reason. At least you'd be armed with some data if you need to go back to the dealer. Pulling onto the highway onramp in fourth gear and then full throttle all the way to redline (traffic depending) should give a solid indication of what's going on.