04-19-2020, 05:37 PM | #1 |
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Recommended Bimmercode Adapter
Hi all,
Got my M50i last month & would like to do some coding. 1st item on agenda get rid of the ASS - and I mean pain in ASS! Wondering what OBD adapter is recommended, I see Bimmercode has changed some on the approved list from last month. I can go IOS or Android. WIFI or BT. And suggestions would be appreciated. |
04-19-2020, 08:49 PM | #2 | |
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04-20-2020, 07:47 AM | #3 | |
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Agree no more!
Enet cable is the best choice simply becasue physical cable is the most reliable connection for coding. Since my G05 has it's own WiFi signal and my car cam does the same thing, plus the other WiFi networks around from other Vehicles, there is just way too much iinterference around for a stable wireless coding. Quote:
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04-20-2020, 08:39 AM | #4 |
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https://bimmercode.app/adapters/
I have the UniCarScan and it has been 100% reliable for me for 18 months. |
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04-20-2020, 09:22 AM | #5 | ||
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Anyway, OP, do a search (maybe by name of adapter specified as supported by Bimmercode in their documentation) as pros and cons of each interface have been discussed and documented many times. Update: for example, review this thread: https://g05.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1673401
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04-20-2020, 10:36 AM | #6 | |
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04-20-2020, 10:58 AM | #8 | |
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Yes, theoretically WIFI can interfere with BT, but in practice it is rare and won't happen in the car when Bimmercode instructions are followed. These days, lack of reliability is very rarely a result of decades proven and refined hardware technologies and almost 100% attributable to rampant shitty software (and much less likely, firmware) implementations. This is why OBDLink MX+ BT interface is more reliable than the Lightning to Ethernet interface. Update: Looking at the updated Bimmercode list, there does appear to be a couple of new WIFI adapters on the list supporting G-series. I haven't yet heard of extensive experience with WIFI adapters on iOS and it has been a very long time (years) coming. The BT and wired adapters there have been on the list for a long time. The issue is also whether you will want to use the same adapter for both Android and iOS, as well as possibly ESys eventually. And local availability can be an issue. When you take all those and *proven by experience* reliability into account, it's a much smaller set and still likely either a) OBDLink MX+ BT or b) Lightning or USB to Ethernet cable plus OBDII Ethernet cable.
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04-20-2020, 02:02 PM | #9 | |
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Appreciate the info. I agree the OBDLink MX+ would be the safest bet for a adapter. Curious it has apparently increased in price & is now $119 from all sources. Going through the threads it was approx $70-80 last year. I still am going between doing it myself & paying for remote coding. |
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04-20-2020, 03:33 PM | #10 |
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I have both. MX+ surely is reliable and never failed me ever. I kept it by the small driver side compartment. It is, however, very very slow.
ENET+Lighting combo is fast and reliable once you get it connected. I've experienced at least a couple times where it failed to connect but got fixed by starting over. Once it's on it is good. I personally like using the combo more than the MX+ because of speed. For example: reading and coding BDC would be about 5 minutes for me. Compare that to ~10-15 seconds with the Enet/lighting.
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04-21-2020, 02:03 PM | #11 |
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I'm using the OBDLink MX+ as well.
Haven't had any issues with it coding my G05, i8 and 7 series. Yes, a little on the slow side, but we're talking about 1 minute perhaps to load up into. I'm super impatient, and sure I would like faster, but with regards to the slowness, it's definitely not an issue for the me. If I could get more options available, I would consider connecting in a different manner. |
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05-17-2020, 02:56 PM | #13 |
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Did my first Bimmercode mods today with the OBDLink MX+, and it was easier and quicker than anticipated. Shouldn't have delayed so long.
Coded: S/S off (as default) Eliminated "warning" screen on start-up Added tire temp. Added 5-blink option on the turn signal Wanted to turn on rear "running lights", but apparently not an option. I'll have to investigate more....those were the important ones. Have to look at some graphics options....Ideas? |
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05-17-2020, 03:35 PM | #14 | |
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To reduce confusion: You didn't code ASS off; rather you coded ASS to remember your last setting, whether that be off or on; the function is best referred to and thought of as "ASS Memory" to reduce confusion. For visual stuff, ADV (if you don't have it i.e. have a MY2019 car) and different dash formats (in particular Alpina dash) are worthwhile.
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05-17-2020, 04:08 PM | #15 | |
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Your many Bimmercode posts have been really informative...made my participation comfortable. I'm waiting until after my 10K service before adding the (more "obvious") graphics. Are there photos / videos of the various "animation" options? I've seen the dash formats, but not startups, etc. I thought the Bimmercode website would have examples, but apparently not. I see you have E46M3....nice. One of my favorite cars was my '99 E36M3 manual. Last edited by GTF; 05-17-2020 at 04:10 PM.. Reason: sp |
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05-20-2020, 10:12 AM | #16 |
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OK...just one more bimmercode help request (at least for now):
Want iDrive to shut down upon opening door. It's in the demo mode, but I can't find when "coding". Also, I can't seem to access some of the control units... get "error reading code" I'm using the OBDLink MX+ Thanks! |
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05-20-2020, 10:25 AM | #17 | |
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Not working ECUs: Might be related to being in Diagnostic Mode. You should code in Diagnostic Mode, which turns on almost all ECUs in the car. In the past, you had to do that manually before starting to code by pressing Start Button 3 times without touching the brake. Recent Bimmercode versions appear to automatically *toggle* the car into Diagnostic Mode, but I believe I also noticed that if you were already in Diagnostic Mode, Bimmercode actually *toggles* the car OUT of Diagnostic Mode. Confusing. Perhaps observe that. You can see if you're in Diagnostic Mode right now by looking at one of your static iDrive system messages. PS: Unfortunately I don't have that 2005 PY E46M3 (or the previous 2001 TS E46M3) and I do miss it. Part of the story here: https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=25509037
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05-20-2020, 12:40 PM | #18 | |
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The triple push on start not required...all control units were again accessible. And iDrive turn off was accomplished in Comfort Access (labeled as "turn engine off" on exit...same result). Done. Thanks again! |
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05-25-2020, 11:45 AM | #19 |
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use the ESYS cable its SOOOO much faster.
I just coded my wifes 2020 m50i with the following esys cable and lighting ethernet adapater. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , having used bluetooth before this is soo much faster. I did have to unplug and plug the lighting cable a few times for it to connect but after it connected was flawless. M dash, M startup and sport individual start up took less than 5 min once connected
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05-25-2020, 11:55 AM | #20 | |
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05-25-2020, 02:59 PM | #21 | |
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Are you saying the hard wired solution is less reliable than the Bluetooth method? |
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05-25-2020, 04:04 PM | #22 | ||
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Is there not a USB-C to Ethernet adapter for newer Androids? I thought these do exist, but all my Android devices are older Micro USB and I have not found such an adapter. UPDATE: here is an article on Android Ethernet for someone to investigate: https://www.wirelesshack.org/how-to-...onnection.html (if you're looking for and/or ready for that complexity).
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