[Herofmine]

Originally Posted by jmciver

Search on eBay for the UP10 DSP and you will find several vendors selling them, most from overseas. I purchased mine from vendor Allwoodsaudio out of the UK. I went this route because I could not find any state side vendors other than a few stereo install shops. But all of the shops that I did find either were more expensive than the overseas vendors or would only sell the product if they installed it…

Thanks!

Anyone can share installation/setup guide? I am getting error
when trying to download https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/m...ase/soundIndex

[Herofmine]

Originally Posted by njdangelo

Literally in the proccess of doing this exact same thing except I went with bavsound speakers and subs and am in between the Match up amp and buying the B&W OEM amp from BMW. Just can't find any literature or pictures to confirm the HK and B&W share the same connectors, sans the 4pin outs for the headliner speakers. IMO that would be the best and easiest way to mimic the original system. Anyone have any info regarding different connectors for the amps?

I looked into this, but doing OEM amp much more complex, and it will be a lot more expensive!

so I went with OEM B&W speakers including all the twitters + Match up 10DSP amp with earth quick 4 ohm subs

[Herofmine]

I do agree with some previous comments about Bowers & Wilkins letters looks off.

Just finished doing center channel, with aftermarket cover and oem b&w speakers, next diamond twitters and speaker grills.

[Herofmine]

Originally Posted by jmciver

For the OP, do you know if any non-music sound info (like navigation, phone calls, PDC, etc), comes from the center channel? Assuming you have not changed any of the input/output signal routing from the default Audiotec tune file, you can find out by merely turning off (or muting) the center channel in the tune file.

This info would be good to know for others who may want to use the UP10DSP in HK/RAM equipped vehicles. It would mean that the MEC Analog In add-on board is not really required. I have not verified the actual pins on the harness, but I believe the only reason the MEC Analog In is needed is to get the center speaker output from the RAM. However, the DSP FX software can create a center channel output (better than factory IMHO) with the left and right signals, so the factory center channel signal is not needed.

An added bonus is that it will save ~$150 or so as the MEC Analog In is usually sold separately. Of course, a reason to keep it would be integration of aftermarket audio devices like a radar detector. I integrated my radar detector sound (a Valentine 1) using one of the unused speaker level inputs in my UP10DSP in my M3 - so now my V1 can be heard from the car’s speakers (the MEC Analog in is not needed in my application, though). Just one example of the flexibility/integration that this amp is capable of….

Hey, so I completed match up 10 dsp amp install today on my x7 which came with ram module (hk system), didn’t tune it yet but sounds horrible, and bmw gong sound is coming from all speakers including from sub, is there a way to fix it from match software?

[jmciver]

Originally Posted by Herofmine

Hey, so I completed match up 10 dsp amp install today on my x7 which came with ram module (hk system), didn’t tune it yet but sounds horrible, and bmw gong sound is coming from all speakers including from sub, is there a way to fix it from match software?

Not that I know of as the gong signal is injected into the sound signal path before it gets to the Match amp. Best bet would be to turn down the gongs in the iDrive menu of the car to help offset the additional amplification coming from the Match amp.

[AAA]

You might also try turning down the gain on the amp. I had to play around with this a bit on my amp.

[Gerhard Lamprecht]

Originally Posted by ASAP

lol... in the audio world Bowers and Wilkins is like a Rolls Royce... whearas Bang and Olufsen and Harmon Kardon are at best BMW 3 series.

I have 3 X5's. A Harman Kardon in X5 F15 model 2014. Bang and Olufsen in X5 F15 model 2015 and Bowers and Wilkins in X5 G05 model 2021. B&W has little better bass, but B&O has more full sound.

Yes Harman Kardon is no near the other two, but the other two are really neck to neck for me. Some days I drive with F15 and I think sound is better. Some days the G05 is better.

[Itslouiev]

Ive read through all the pages here, but wondering if anyone has used the alpha one speakers for this. I am definitely going to attack the B&W grilles this summer and while I do want the best possible acoustics, I do also think that the Alpha One speakers with the silver colored cones and silver magnets at the front may provide a more visually appeasing look with the LEDs reflecting better.

any experience, or how do those of y'all with the bavsounds and/or focals digging the led reflectivity on black speaker cones? (buying the B&W speakers is an option im open to as well)

[Itslouiev]

Just to verify the midrange woofers on our doors are 5” right? Im seeing tons of deals for the 4” woofers but nothing below msrp for the 5”

[-cj-]

Originally Posted by -cj-

Anyone who has done this mod, are you getting really loud OEM start up and blinker (what are those?) sounds at obnoxious volume levels? Someone reported that earlier with the 8DSP version.. I haven’t done this mod yet, but I’m curious.

Bump.

I’m trying to decide between upgrading my factory HK amp or just adding a subwoofer+amp and not touching the OEM amp. I’m on the fence due to someone reporting that OEM sounds from the computer play back at super high volume. Did anyone else run into this?

Also, I’m running the BAVSound “Stage 2” upgrade with speakers and subwoofers, and it sounds great. Clear all the way to insane volume levels. Think it’s still worth touching the amp? Or should I keep it clean and just add a subwoofer…

I need to decide now before I order the Technica harness, since it’s one or the other.. Any help or insight would be appreciated.

[FotiosF90M5]

Originally Posted by jmciver

Now that I think about this a bit more, the “summing profile” for the cars with the factory RAM may need to be a bit more intricate than the example I originally posted above. This would be in order to retain fader control, proper park distance control (PDC) audio direction, and auxiliary audio (i.e. from navigation, phone calls, etc). So to get a full frequency range signal properly, you may need to do something like this…

For the front left signal, sum: Front Left door and Front Left Underseat woofer

For the front right signal, sum: Front Right door and Front Right Underseat woofer

Do this for all four “corners” of the car and you should have a full frequency range input for each corner for the DSP to work with AND still retain the factory sound control I mentioned above - at least theoretically.

I would test this signal routing first before doing any actual EQ’ing of the DSP output channels to verify proper factory operation of the audio control. Some experimentation/tweaking may be required, especially for the PDC audio I would think…

Hello again my friend, The file AF has for the RAM HK has always confused the hell out of me. Somehow it works ( not very well, but works ) even with zero settings applied and it is all set to 1k all around, no crossovers, no eq at all, so it is basically just I/O's. I use this then add all my own crossovers etc and have gotten it decent a few times but can never seem to get it just right, much better just not consistent. I don't have it set up the way you do and still retain all factory features and functions like fader, nav , etc. I will try this though.

The #1 problem I have that just kills everything is the damn M5 ASD sound. I've coded it out but in order to get a decent eq tune the volume of the ASD and gongs gets so loud. I drop gains and then it's just too weak so I can't seem to win this one. If I did not have this issue tuning this would be so much better. It's plaguing my system. Since we last spoke I changed out the audison 4ohm's for earthquake 2ohm and the punch is impressive but there is a tiny hole, not much between underseats and mids. This was until I did the Focal ES 100k's for the front and the focal IS100's for the center and rear deck. The ES 100's are friggin amazing, amazing speakers I must say. I still have all of my Audisons at home, woofers, mids etc in case I put it back or mix it up. The rear doors are still the audisons. Between the audisons and regular bmw IS focals the highs are crisper on Focals, better detail but the bass is about the same. The ES100's are a dramatic upgrade but having the fronts only gets what I need done done, extremely detailed and powerful. Every tiny sound is heard and sounds remarkable. I just HATE the RAM HK's. My wifes X3m RAM HK is just fine, my M5's is awful. My sons 18 HK 340 is very strong too
Sorry for the crazy rant, at work not much time to reply properly but love the thread. Thanks OP.
The ASD sound is my biggest hurdle I cant seem to overcome. Coded out or not. The conductors main volume dial is the only way to lower the asd sound on the fly but it makes system weaker so it needs almost full volume. It also nearly eliminates the turn signal and gong sounds. Very confusing but I make it work somehow

[jmciver]

Originally Posted by FotiosF90M5

Hello again my friend, The file AF has for the RAM HK has always confused the hell out of me. Somehow it works ( not very well, but works ) even with zero settings applied and it is all set to 1k all around, no crossovers, no eq at all, so it is basically just I/O's. I use this then add all my own crossovers etc and have gotten it decent a few times but can never seem to get it just right, much better just not consistent. I don't have it set up the way you do and still retain all factory features and functions like fader, nav , etc. I will try this though.

The #1 problem I have that just kills everything is the damn M5 ASD sound. I've coded it out but in order to get a decent eq tune the volume of the ASD and gongs gets so loud. I drop gains and then it's just too weak so I can't seem to win this one. If I did not have this issue tuning this would be so much better. It's plaguing my system. Since we last spoke I changed out the audison 4ohm's for earthquake 2ohm and the punch is impressive but there is a tiny hole, not much between underseats and mids. This was until I did the Focal ES 100k's for the front and the focal IS100's for the center and rear deck. The ES 100's are friggin amazing, amazing speakers I must say. I still have all of my Audisons at home, woofers, mids etc in case I put it back or mix it up. The rear doors are still the audisons. Between the audisons and regular bmw IS focals the highs are crisper on Focals, better detail but the bass is about the same. The ES100's are a dramatic upgrade but having the fronts only gets what I need done [...]

Take a look at this video. It explains how to use the input signal analyzer feature in the AF tuning software to get a good, flat signal that you can then use to EQ for a better tune. As far as ASD goes, if you can code it off and get a decently flat signal to tune with from the stock RAM inputs, you might have better success…

https://youtu.be/KNgeGG13Qg0

Edit: I cut & pasted the wrong video. This is the correct one now…..

[FotiosF90M5]

Originally Posted by jmciver

Take a look at this video. It explains how to use the input signal analyzer feature in the AF tuning software to get a good, flat signal that you can then use to EQ for a better tune. As far as ASD goes, if you can code it off and get a decently flat signal to tune with from the stock RAM inputs, you might have better success…

https://youtu.be/KNgeGG13Qg0

Edit: I cut & pasted the wrong video. This is the correct one now…..

thanks!
Coding off helps but somehow it's still there. I've done some already, very cool feature there actually isn't as much eq as i expected and can make it relatively flat easily. My main goal is to get a grasp and better understanding for the asd volume or whatever is happening, lower db levels on channels, lower global gain, or higher input sensitivity. I'm surprised x5m comp owners arent having the same issue.

[-cj-]

Originally Posted by SpiralOut

It is a bit confusing when it comes to the MEC card. It normally would not be needed because you could make it work with less inputs, but to make it truly plug and play with the harness and existing HK amp, it's using the existing speaker sets as the inputs to the Match amp and then just running the outputs of the Match out and back through the existing wiring via the harness. So the HK system in our cars has 9 speaker groups (2 fronts, 2 rears, 2 hatch area, 2 subs, and 1 center), but the match amp only has 8 input channels.... so the MEC card is required to give us that 1 extra input for the center channel.

I hope this didn’t get answered in the thread already (long thread), but this confused me.

You mentioned Match amp is 8 channel and we counted 9 inputs from all our speakers, so the MEC brings us to 9. But I thought the Match10 is a 10 Channel?

[jmciver]

Originally Posted by -cj-

I hope this didn’t get answered in the thread already (long thread), but this confused me.

You mentioned Match amp is 8 channel and we counted 9 inputs from all our speakers, so the MEC brings us to 9. But I thought the Match10 is a 10 Channel?

The UP10 has 8 high level speaker inputs. Not all cars have this many speaker channels. The HK system has 9 speaker channels so the MEC card is necessary for the UP10 to get speaker inputs from all of the factory speaker channels. These speaker inputs are used to create the audio signal that the DSP in the amp will process, sending the resulting sound to 10 speaker outputs. Not all cars have 10 speakers, but this allows for speaker customization in an aftermarket speaker install. But in the case of this BMW system, 9 of the 10 UP10 speaker outputs will be used (assuming you to use all 9 factory speaker locations).

Technically, the UP10 does not need all of those factory speaker inputs in order to create a good sound signal for the DSP to use. Typically, front left and right are enough for close to a full frequency range signal, with the left and right underseat woofers adding low frequency signals in order to give the UP10 a full frequency signal to work with.

However, in order to maintain full functionality like navigation and the PDC tones, all the factory inputs will be necessary.

[Maltman]

Thanks for the write-up. Can I do the same with a standard audio system or do I have to upgrade to HK first?

[jmciver]

Originally Posted by Maltman

Thanks for the write-up. Can I do the same with a standard audio system or do I have to upgrade to HK first?

Sure you can, no need to upgrade to a factory HK system first (and would make this upgrade more expensive than necessary). The UP10 amp does not care where it gets it’s signal from, as long as the amp has a full frequency range signal from the headunit which can then be tuned using the DSP in the amp.

Although, if you have the base system, the UP10 will be overkill (extra input & output channels will not be used due to the fewer number of stock speaker channel locations in the non-HK system). Either the UP7 or UP8 would be a better, more cost effective option.

[dombi]

Great discussion in here... hopefully you guys are still reading the forum.

Question for those who have done tuning:
- what House Curve did set for the G05?
- some mentioned that the B&W has an amazing sound... does anyone have the House Curve for it? Has anyone measured its response?

[evidence]

Originally Posted by SpiralOut

If you get a message in the SW about the MEC card voltage, you need to adjust the Voltage setting in the DSP PC-Tool to be "max. 11 / 3,5 Volts". Screenshot below of that setting. This MEC card input maps to the center channel, you can adjust the gain slider up some if you want more volume out of the center channel.

In the last screenshot, the box labeled #4 is where the amp power cable goes. For ground, there's a few good choices over to the left side of the battery pretty close to the amp.

I might have missed it, do you believe it still to be the case that the MEC analog card should be in high voltage?

Based on someone's convo w Match tech, since the MEC card is only handling the center channel, it should be left alone in the default low voltage.

Ultimately you could tune this to normalize it, I believe by upping the center channel, as the voltage will just be lower than expected.

[evidence]

Originally Posted by adc

The reason your subs sounded so loud is because you used the 2 Ohm versions of the subs, and the 4 Ohms versions of the door speakers. The Earthquake subs come in both 2 Ohm and 4 Ohm versions. Anyway, you equalized it in the software.

You can also pick up a URC.3 for ~$60, you can map the 2 dials to whatever in the DSP software, including under seat subs on one and a trunk sub on the other. Nice for different music types and moods