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      01-24-2020, 04:04 PM   #23
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Leo at Eurocharged Performance in Toronto just finished flashing an 850i there 2 days ago. Added 140hp/100tq. will take my 50i there after it's break in period! Cost is $2799 + tax. Going to have them also do X pipe and muffler delete and add a couple of bullet mufflers and nicer tips. Any suggestions on tips out there?
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      01-26-2020, 09:14 PM   #24
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You can here some clips on the site with just the X pipe removal.

I would try that out first, pretty loud.

It sucks to loose the exhaust valves when you want it quiet on a business call.
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      01-27-2020, 02:21 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim2189 View Post
I think we all need to have a party once you finally get your car! haha
What is the update with that?
HAHAHA... thanks for asking!

The car has arrived in Germany.... in Munich at the Depot. It is waiting on the next transport to take it to the dealership in Wurzburg.

The Dealer has 3 days to clean it, prepare all the paperwork, install a CD player in the glovebox, and do the pre-inspection.

Then.... I can pick it up. Maybe 1-2 weeks?

It's a 7-hour drive, so I'll likely take a couple days off from work, drive out, stay the night, pick it up in the morning, and get to know it on the drive home.

TRUST ME... i will take pictures. I have over $4000 in parts and accessories sitting in my garage... all of which will need to be documented with pictures LOL I'll probably create a "progress thread" for it.
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      01-27-2020, 08:14 AM   #26
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Re the X pipe that's an add on vs delete I posted a question a few weeks ago wondering if just doing the X pipe mod vs muffler delete would change the sound by itself. if yes would leave muffler and use Bimmerlink to code the exhaust valve
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      01-31-2020, 09:47 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninefourteener View Post
The M50i is brand new for 2020.... and while it shares the engine from the previous year's m850i.... the intake system is completely different.

I've looked.... trust me.

I've bought a few "first year" cars over the years.... the ones that come to mind were my 2006 WRX (first year for 2.5L).... a 2016 340i (first year for B58 engine)... and now, the M50i.

Realistically.... it will be late 2020 by the time we see anything intake/exhaust related. But.... the Chinese will flood the market first with garbage products with no R&D done... so don't be tempted to jump as soon as you see something.

K&N is generally very quick.... 6 months or so. As soon as I pick up my car, I'm going to accurately measure the filter, and see if K&N has another one of the same size. If not, I expect them to release something soon anyway.
Parts are coming. Be patient. Just like the X3M the car has to be out for at least 8-12 months before you start seeing some mods for It.

I heard bootmod3 is beta testing the M50i tunes now, those should be good for 100-120 WHP. Downpipes Im assuming ER will be first on the scene r33_RGSport would be the guy to speak to about all of It as I purchased my tune from him. He has all the plugs.

Intakes will probably be a bitch, just like they were with m550i. That's been out forever and only 1 guy makes the intakes for them. So don't expect any intakes to be honest.

Like you I'm also super impatient for bolt ones for my F97!
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      02-08-2020, 09:50 AM   #28
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This may be a dumb question but will a muffler delete cause CEL to come on? Looking to get some more rumble from the exhaust, not really sure what my best option would be.
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      02-08-2020, 12:32 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMBX23 View Post
This may be a dumb question but will a muffler delete cause CEL to come on? Looking to get some more rumble from the exhaust, not really sure what my best option would be.
Nope. There are no sensors monitoring the muffler, so you are good.
Just get exhaust flap bypass plug and you'll be good.
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      02-08-2020, 03:21 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r33_RGSport View Post
Nope. There are no sensors monitoring the muffler, so you are good.
Just get exhaust flap bypass plug and you'll be good.
Awesome, thanks for the info. Any idea of where I can get the bypass plug?

Also, I might be asking too much but does anyone in the NY, CT area know of any reputable shops where I can have this done? Thanks
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      02-09-2020, 10:29 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMBX23 View Post
Awesome, thanks for the info. Any idea of where I can get the bypass plug?

Also, I might be asking too much but does anyone in the NY, CT area know of any reputable shops where I can have this done? Thanks
I believe ECS have it. Not sure that it will be compatible since it is for 540i.

The other way, just have the module connected and tucked away.
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      04-18-2020, 01:25 PM   #32
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Anyone with updates or new information? Im getting bored staying at home and though to have some fun... was looking for BMW JB4 and air intake system .
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      04-20-2020, 08:55 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMBX23 View Post
Awesome, thanks for the info. Any idea of where I can get the bypass plug?

Also, I might be asking too much but does anyone in the NY, CT area know of any reputable shops where I can have this done? Thanks
Munich Motorsports in East Windsor, CT.
Exclusive BMW shop.
They can also tune the ECU via Steve Dinan's Carbahn.
I'm strongly considering the Carbahn tune for my X5 40i.
Increase 100+ hp and 140+ torque.
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      04-20-2020, 06:04 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ted920 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMBX23 View Post
Awesome, thanks for the info. Any idea of where I can get the bypass plug?

Also, I might be asking too much but does anyone in the NY, CT area know of any reputable shops where I can have this done? Thanks
Munich Motorsports in East Windsor, CT.
Exclusive BMW shop.
They can also tune the ECU via Steve Dinan's Carbahn.
I'm strongly considering the Carbahn tune for my X5 40i.
Increase 100+ hp and 140+ torque.
Thanks I'm going to have to check them out. I checked the site on Dinan and carbahn and still don't see any tunes released for a 19' 50i. I just want a bit of a louder exhaust and maybe 50-100hp, I'll see what they tell me over at Munich
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      05-05-2020, 06:39 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMBX23 View Post
Awesome, thanks for the info. Any idea of where I can get the bypass plug?

Also, I might be asking too much but does anyone in the NY, CT area know of any reputable shops where I can have this done? Thanks
You don't need to "buy" anything. You can permanently open the flaps on the exhaust so it operates "full open" all the time.

Super-easy mod..... and I barely notice the noise difference inside the cabin. Outside however, it is noticeably better and healthier.

1) Remove the panels under the exhaust tips (8mm bolts, about 6 each side if I recall)

2) loosen the 3 bolts (10mm if I recall, maybe 12) on the electronic flap actuator (no need to remove them)

3) pull the pin out that connects the electronic module to the flapper valve itself (easy to understand when you are looking at it). Save the pins in case you ever want to re-install them.

4) Familiarize yourself with which position is "open" and "closed". Lay under the car and feel the outboard exhaust pipe when someone starts it. If you feel air, its open.

5) Safety wire the valve open, by running the wire through the slot that had the pin in it. Make sure it is 100% tight, or it will rattle. The space is a little tight, but absolutely doable. Take your time, be patient, and make sure the safety wire is SUPER tight. (I had to re-do one side because it rattled a little)

6) re-tighten the electronic flapper modules. Leave them plugged in.... it doesn't hurt a thing, and won't throw any codes that way.

7) have someone start the car while you stand behind it, let it idle, rev it at different RPMs, etc..... check for rattles.

8) re-install both plastic covers under tailpipes.

Tools needed:
8mm nutdriver (or ratchet/socket)
10mm wrench (ratcheting wrench preferred but not necessary
Safety wire.
That's it.... literally.

It KILLS me when I see people spending big money on electronic devices to control the exhaust flappers, or having it coded, or whatever..... all of that risks check engine lights. There is ZERO chance of a CEL with my method, and it costs about 6 dollars for safety wire.
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      05-05-2020, 08:40 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninefourteener View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMBX23 View Post
Awesome, thanks for the info. Any idea of where I can get the bypass plug?

Also, I might be asking too much but does anyone in the NY, CT area know of any reputable shops where I can have this done? Thanks
You don't need to "buy" anything. You can permanently open the flaps on the exhaust so it operates "full open" all the time.

Super-easy mod..... and I barely notice the noise difference inside the cabin. Outside however, it is noticeably better and healthier.

1) Remove the panels under the exhaust tips (8mm bolts, about 6 each side if I recall)

2) loosen the 3 bolts (10mm if I recall, maybe 12) on the electronic flap actuator (no need to remove them)

3) pull the pin out that connects the electronic module to the flapper valve itself (easy to understand when you are looking at it). Save the pins in case you ever want to re-install them.

4) Familiarize yourself with which position is "open" and "closed". Lay under the car and feel the outboard exhaust pipe when someone starts it. If you feel air, its open.

5) Safety wire the valve open, by running the wire through the slot that had the pin in it. Make sure it is 100% tight, or it will rattle. The space is a little tight, but absolutely doable. Take your time, be patient, and make sure the safety wire is SUPER tight. (I had to re-do one side because it rattled a little)

6) re-tighten the electronic flapper modules. Leave them plugged in.... it doesn't hurt a thing, and won't throw any codes that way.

7) have someone start the car while you stand behind it, let it idle, rev it at different RPMs, etc..... check for rattles.

8) re-install both plastic covers under tailpipes.

Tools needed:
8mm nutdriver (or ratchet/socket)
10mm wrench (ratcheting wrench preferred but not necessary
Safety wire.
That's it.... literally.

It KILLS me when I see people spending big money on electronic devices to control the exhaust flappers, or having it coded, or whatever..... all of that risks check engine lights. There is ZERO chance of a CEL with my method, and it costs about 6 dollars for safety wire.
Thank you for that, I'll give it a try
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      05-05-2020, 08:50 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninefourteener View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMBX23 View Post
Awesome, thanks for the info. Any idea of where I can get the bypass plug?

Also, I might be asking too much but does anyone in the NY, CT area know of any reputable shops where I can have this done? Thanks
You don't need to "buy" anything. You can permanently open the flaps on the exhaust so it operates "full open" all the time.

Super-easy mod..... and I barely notice the noise difference inside the cabin. Outside however, it is noticeably better and healthier.

1) Remove the panels under the exhaust tips (8mm bolts, about 6 each side if I recall)

2) loosen the 3 bolts (10mm if I recall, maybe 12) on the electronic flap actuator (no need to remove them)

3) pull the pin out that connects the electronic module to the flapper valve itself (easy to understand when you are looking at it). Save the pins in case you ever want to re-install them.

4) Familiarize yourself with which position is "open" and "closed". Lay under the car and feel the outboard exhaust pipe when someone starts it. If you feel air, its open.

5) Safety wire the valve open, by running the wire through the slot that had the pin in it. Make sure it is 100% tight, or it will rattle. The space is a little tight, but absolutely doable. Take your time, be patient, and make sure the safety wire is SUPER tight. (I had to re-do one side because it rattled a little)

6) re-tighten the electronic flapper modules. Leave them plugged in.... it doesn't hurt a thing, and won't throw any codes that way.

7) have someone start the car while you stand behind it, let it idle, rev it at different RPMs, etc..... check for rattles.

8) re-install both plastic covers under tailpipes.

Tools needed:
8mm nutdriver (or ratchet/socket)
10mm wrench (ratcheting wrench preferred but not necessary
Safety wire.
That's it.... literally.

It KILLS me when I see people spending big money on electronic devices to control the exhaust flappers, or having it coded, or whatever..... all of that risks check engine lights. There is ZERO chance of a CEL with my method, and it costs about 6 dollars for safety wire.
This is a great DIY write up of this particular method! But just for the record, none of the other methods of keeping the G05 exhaust flap(s) open throw any codes either. This includes a) this mechanical method as well as: b) opening the flap and then disconnecting the solenoid control wire, c) opening the flap and then pulling the appropriate fuse, d) using Bimmerlink or similar app to control the flap. Those flap solenoid controls don't appear to be monitored by the car telemetry.
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      05-05-2020, 07:22 PM   #38
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Interestingly, Supersprint appears to have G05 X5 M50i downpipes...

https://www.supersprint.com/ww-en/bm...system.aspx#!/

Clearly they are not cheap (US 1660), but has anyone tried them yet? This should be one of the best mods you can do for the car, especially if you plan to tune it.
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      05-06-2020, 01:05 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninefourteener View Post
You don't need to "buy" anything. You can permanently open the flaps on the exhaust so it operates "full open" all the time.

Super-easy mod..... and I barely notice the noise difference inside the cabin. Outside however, it is noticeably better and healthier.

1) Remove the panels under the exhaust tips (8mm bolts, about 6 each side if I recall)

2) loosen the 3 bolts (10mm if I recall, maybe 12) on the electronic flap actuator (no need to remove them)

3) pull the pin out that connects the electronic module to the flapper valve itself (easy to understand when you are looking at it). Save the pins in case you ever want to re-install them.

4) Familiarize yourself with which position is "open" and "closed". Lay under the car and feel the outboard exhaust pipe when someone starts it. If you feel air, its open.

5) Safety wire the valve open, by running the wire through the slot that had the pin in it. Make sure it is 100% tight, or it will rattle. The space is a little tight, but absolutely doable. Take your time, be patient, and make sure the safety wire is SUPER tight. (I had to re-do one side because it rattled a little)

6) re-tighten the electronic flapper modules. Leave them plugged in.... it doesn't hurt a thing, and won't throw any codes that way.

7) have someone start the car while you stand behind it, let it idle, rev it at different RPMs, etc..... check for rattles.

8) re-install both plastic covers under tailpipes.

Tools needed:
8mm nutdriver (or ratchet/socket)
10mm wrench (ratcheting wrench preferred but not necessary
Safety wire.
That's it.... literally.

It KILLS me when I see people spending big money on electronic devices to control the exhaust flappers, or having it coded, or whatever..... all of that risks check engine lights. There is ZERO chance of a CEL with my method, and it costs about 6 dollars for safety wire.
Why go through all of that when you can go to engine sound settings and change to sporty?
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      05-11-2020, 02:21 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraDave View Post
Why go through all of that when you can go to engine sound settings and change to sporty?
The setting in Idrive is fake noise coming through the speakers. It does not impact the way the exhaust valves operate.

I "believe" the only way to open the valves full time, is by putting the car in sport+ mode. Even then, I still think they operate in different conditions.

By opening the valves full time, you always have "actual" exhaust sound..... outside the car.... although I barely notice a difference inside the car.
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      05-11-2020, 05:59 PM   #41
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Fake noise??? Really??
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      05-11-2020, 06:37 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraDave View Post
Fake noise??? Really??
He is correct. BMW pipes fake noise into the car through the speakers. That is all you are doing.
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      05-12-2020, 01:45 AM   #43
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That’s the dumbest thing I ever heard. Why would you need to pipe fake engine noise from a 523 horsepower twin turbo V8???
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      05-12-2020, 02:10 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraDave View Post
Thatís the dumbest thing I ever heard. Why would you need to pipe fake engine noise from a 523 horsepower twin turbo V8???
Because the vehicle cabin is so soundproof that it is hard to hear the m-sport exhaust. Why not pull the fuse in the valve or go sport plus? Both keep the valve open.
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