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      01-26-2020, 04:37 AM   #23
X5 45e
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I see the same while driving. I think it will always give an electric boost when accelerating with the ICE active to reduce fuel consumption. Not only with kick down.
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      01-27-2020, 06:25 AM   #24
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I had the 45e for a couple of day test driving it (before deciding to get one..) and i got about 32 kwh/100km. I dont remember the exact number, but I got 68 km before the ICE turned on. I started with 100% battery, and I guess the ICE started at 10% SoC. I believe the battery is 24 kwh, so with 10% left I must have used about 22 kwh. 22 / 0,68 is 32.

So 32 kwh / 100 km was mixed driving, about 40 min 20-80 kmh, and 10 min hard highway driving (more or less 70-100% electric output driving at 120 kmh). IOW, not very efficient. This makes me believe that I can get the car to run on less than 30 kwh/100mk when driving at speeds lower than about 80 kmh.

I wonder what the reason is that most ppl here dont get the same numbers? ICE driving style? Lots of highway driving? I am coming from a BMW i3 and 330E (hybrid) and think I am fairly good at not using the break pedal except when stopping at red lights and obviously when I have to stop hard for other reasons. Do you guys drive this way as well (one pedal driving)? The regeneration on the x5 is fairly good (close to my 330e), so it should be possible.. Obviously important to look far ahead and read the traffic situation...

I am going to loan the x5 45e again next week, will test the electric range again then..
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      01-27-2020, 06:34 AM   #25
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My average is about 40.4 kWh/100km. My daily journey is mostly dual carriageways with several roundabouts and a few hills. So lots of acceleration up to 110kph and a reasonable amount of crawling in slow traffic.
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      01-27-2020, 07:36 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluetriangle View Post
My average is about 40.4 kWh/100km. My daily journey is mostly dual carriageways with several roundabouts and a few hills. So lots of acceleration up to 110kph and a reasonable amount of crawling in slow traffic.
As with all electric vehicles highway speeds (wind resistance) kills efficiency. I remember getting 10-13 kWh/100km with the BMW i3 when driving 60-80 kmh (not that many stop and go's) and 20-24 kWh/100km when driving 120-130 kmh on the highway. That's a factor of two! Just imagine this happening with ICE engines...
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      01-27-2020, 08:30 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anterialis View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluetriangle View Post
My average is about 40.4 kWh/100km. My daily journey is mostly dual carriageways with several roundabouts and a few hills. So lots of acceleration up to 110kph and a reasonable amount of crawling in slow traffic.
As with all electric vehicles highway speeds (wind resistance) kills efficiency. I remember getting 10-13 kWh/100km with the BMW i3 when driving 60-80 kmh (not that many stop and go's) and 20-24 kWh/100km when driving 120-130 kmh on the highway. That's a factor of two! Just imagine this happening with ICE engines...
The X5 is probably more than twice as heavy to and a bit less aerodynamic. This might also be a factor.
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      01-27-2020, 10:25 AM   #28
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Of course. I didn't mean to compare the absolute values, only the relative difference. Indeed, increased weight results in increased watt output when accelerating, but also increased regeneration (which is also why it's even more important to not use the break pedal to the point where the break calipers engage, wasting energy). I still think highway driving is quite more (maybe not twice..) energy dependent than driving <80kmh.. You know this better than me still waiting for delivery, end of April....
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      01-28-2020, 05:38 AM   #29
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I wouldn't be too afraid to use the brake pedal a bit. My observation is that soft-to-normal braking just increases the charging indicator level and only hard braking seems to resort to actual brakes.

Still, no brake pedal is probably best and that's how I also try to drive. It would be nice to have a setting for lift-foot-from-gas braking -- even my Ninebot scooter has a soft/normal/hard setting.
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      01-28-2020, 06:36 AM   #30
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I'm not sure if it actually makes a difference if you push the brake pedal without engaging the actual brakes. The first few centimeters just increases the regeneration, which it already does when just releasing the gas, right?

That is how it works in my current plug-in hybrid anyway.
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      01-28-2020, 08:35 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Sirksael View Post
I'm not sure if it actually makes a difference if you push the brake pedal without engaging the actual brakes. The first few centimeters just increases the regeneration, which it already does when just releasing the gas, right?

That is how it works in my current plug-in hybrid anyway.
Correct. But if you continue that thought. If you have to use the real brakes you are not using the full regenerative potential that you would have had if you released the gas earlier.
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      01-28-2020, 10:40 AM   #32
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Correct. But if you continue that thought. If you have to use the real brakes you are not using the full regenerative potential that you would have had if you released the gas earlier.
Right. Using the brake pedal does not immediately engage the real brakes, it first increases the regeneration current, so only hard braking misses the regeneration potential. From the Driver's Guide:
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      01-29-2020, 01:38 AM   #33
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"As long as the pointer is still moving in the middle range..."

They could've made this a tad clearer to be honest

Last edited by PeterPuitG; 01-29-2020 at 01:39 AM.. Reason: typo
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      01-29-2020, 02:08 AM   #34
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I've maxed out at around 75 km so far in terms of range

A lot has to do with driving style, mode and area where you drive. The fact that the car is parked outside or inside can also influence it, especially if you use pre-heating.

Some things I've noticed:

Adaptive mode only gives you 0 - 20 in speedometer in terms of electric driving -> thus not allowing you to push the pedal too much -> if you do it goes non-electric but in terms of range I have gotten more range in adaptive more versus electric mode

Electric mode gives you 0 - 40 in speedometer in terms of electric driving but going above 20 there drains the battery faster - more pull but also more electric consumption (logical)

Besides these you also have seat heating for example which takes away range, not sure how many other features drain the battery

Light braking regenerates more according to speedometer than just rolling downhill so I try to apply that

Highway = big no no in terms of speed if you want to max out your range, 120 km/hour drains the battery much faster (thus you're driving in electric mode) - probably takes down range by around 40-50% so I don't drive electric on highway (unless in traffic jams or speed goes below 90)

There is also setting for battery charge % which is set to default to 80% or 90% I believe. If I'm understanding correctly, this is to make the battery last longer but that would also mean that is is never really charging up to of it's capacity (100% range would be 85 km according to papers then) so when it shows 100% charged it is in fact less because of this setting - haven't played around with it to see if I can increase range but I would assume it

If the above is correct, 90% is around 76 km and then you maxed it out basically.
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      01-29-2020, 03:33 AM   #35
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I believe this is correct. BMW does this (usable kwh vs actual kWh) so that we don’t have to worry about not charging it fully (which is bad for the battery). We simply charge it up when we want, and when it says 100% SoC, it’s actually like 85% or so. I don’t know the exact number, but BMW has a safe zone in the bottom as well as on top (so what we see as 0-100% SoC is actually like 5-90% actual SoC. These are made up numbers).
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      01-29-2020, 06:46 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apocalypsbe View Post
I've maxed out at around 75 km so far in terms of range

...

Besides these you also have seat heating for example which takes away range, not sure how many other features drain the battery

...
I read an atricle about maximizing your range, besides the obvious things such as switching off airco, radio, etc. they were saying that the heating uses a lot of electricity in winter. They stated that turning down heating and replacing it with your seat heating if you can bear it, can add a few KM range.

Makes sense when you think about it, as the engine is not always running, heating in PHEV vehicles is electric and electric heating is quite inefficient...

If I pre-heat my current plug-in hybrid in the morning, it can take up to 15-20% battery capacity away in 15 minutes...
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      01-29-2020, 12:43 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterPuitG View Post
"As long as the pointer is still moving in the middle range..."

They could've made this a tad clearer to be honest
Right. The manual is pretty useless overall and especially on the hybrid, the only way to learn is by testing yourself.
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      01-29-2020, 01:24 PM   #38
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I've been able to duplicate driving 53 km electric (full to empty) 80-90% on highway at speed 115 km/h per speedometer. So range is lost but not that much as otherwise I am making 65 km max, due to heating most likely. My preheating is via wallbox (and warm garage at work) so I start the day with 100% for driving.

The battery charge percentage setting only applies to the Battery Control drive mode that uses ICE to fill up the battery. The battery percentages are fractions of the net capacity of 21.6 kWh.

The net capacity happens to be 90% of the gross capacity but since you never witness that 10%, it is almost irrelevant. Hearsay tells that it leaves some space at the bottom and some at the top, full range being maybe 5% (empty) to 95% (full), top margin being for recuperation even with full battery.
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