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      11-22-2021, 10:37 PM   #23
Melbourne_X5M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninefourteener View Post
In addition to being a mechanic, I've also owned 2 BMW in the past, and installed, uninstalled, and then re-installed an M performance Big Brake Kit on both cars.... and done brake jobs on at least 100 more cars over the past 25 years. While I don't own my G05 yet, I can answer this question pretty thoroughly.

The sensor you are referring to is just a "wire" that has a connection inside the wheelwell, as well as the brake pad itself. It just snaps in - No tools are required, and it is quite simple. And, although BMW will tell you otherwise, unless you wear down your brake pads to the bare minimum, you do not need to replace them unless they are damaged. I used the last set of sensors on2 brake pad changes (neither were more than 50% worn though). The sensor is a Male U-shaped "plug" that snaps into a female U-shaped portion on the base of the brake pad. its designed to be "destroyed" when your pads get too thin, and warn you beforehand. Change your pads at 50-60%, and you can re-use the sensors.

Note, the sensor "wire" has a SOLID copper core.... not braided like most copper wire. Consequently, it breaks easily if you coil or bend it (I know from personal experience). So... be careful with it, dont bend it too sharply,,,, but essentially its just a wire

Front calipers are monobloc style, meaning you don't even have to remove the calipers to change the pads. Pads are held in with 2 pins. All you need to change the pads is a set of pliers to pull the pins out. You will need to compress the 4 pistons before installing the new (thicker) brake pads. As with all multi-piston calipers, removing the brake reservoir cap makes it easier. If not, compressing one piston causes another to protrude.

The rear calipers are "old school" single piston design (which drives me crazy). Simple install - remove the lower caliper bolt, loosen the upper, swing the caliper up, change pads, re-install, re-tighten.

There is an added level of complexity with the rear calipers, because as of 2019, BMW incorporated an electronic e-brake into the caliper (hence, making multi-piston caliper upgrades impossible), but that shouldn't affect the way the pads are changed.

It's a straight-forward job, even for a basic mechanic. Nothing "electronic" or "coding" related needs to occur, so you don't need BMWs involvement.
THIS!!!!
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      12-12-2021, 03:35 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melbourne_X5M View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by omasou View Post
So they do need to be screwed back in?
Yes. There is a tool kit you can rent for free from places like Autozone and O'Reillys
I just finished installing drilled rotors and new pads on the rear. Indeed the pistons must be rotated and pressed back in with the tool. The autozone one works in a pinch but my kit didn't have a three pin adapter that fits properly so I had to go without an adapter. I used a threaded pin to hang both the rotor and wheel
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      01-14-2022, 06:05 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVR4 View Post
I just finished installing drilled rotors and new pads on the rear. Indeed the pistons must be rotated and pressed back in with the tool. The autozone one works in a pinch but my kit didn't have a three pin adapter that fits properly so I had to go without an adapter. I used a threaded pin to hang both the rotor and wheel
I have an X6 40i w/the M red brakes, which I believe are the same as yours?

Do you have the part numbers for the cross drilled rotors?
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      01-27-2022, 07:46 AM   #26
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Pad / rotor thickness

Would anyone happen to know what the original pad and rotor thickness is (G05 40i M-Sport w/3rd row) please?
I have about 24k miles with a mix of city and highway driving and the most recent dealer service report states 10mm wear remaining (which was exactly the same at this time last years service).
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      02-08-2022, 06:36 PM   #27
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This is what happens when you change your rear pads, drive in the piston but don't retract the ebrake. Make sure you retract the ebrake before turning in the piston
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      08-19-2022, 06:51 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo2002 View Post
This is what happens when you change your rear pads, drive in the piston but don't retract the ebrake. Make sure you retract the ebrake before turning in the piston
I retracted the piston (just pushed in, not push and turn)after using a powerprobe to retract the electronic motor and it still gave me these codes. Along with brake boost and chassis alert. How did you fix your chassis alert? Dont know where to begin! Please help!
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      10-29-2022, 08:59 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASEtechHardy View Post
I retracted the piston (just pushed in, not push and turn)after using a powerprobe to retract the electronic motor and it still gave me these codes. Along with brake boost and chassis alert. How did you fix your chassis alert? Dont know where to begin! Please help!
how did you solve this?
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      01-11-2023, 10:18 PM   #30
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I found another detailed procedure on how to do this without the scan tool, but many people posted that they had error codes afterwards. Don't do it. Get bimmerlink or scan tool and rent or buy the tool. The kits I've seen online are missing the 3-prong adapter.
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      01-25-2023, 02:33 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remeeno View Post
JimVR4

I did not engage the parking brake button as I actually do not use it too frequently BUT the vehicle does block the wheels to some extent even without engaging it.

When I first removed the caliper, the piston of the rear brake's would not accommodate the new brake pads due to its extended travel/ position and it would not allow me to push it back in with the tool.

To me, step two did the whole difference! I was able to push the piston in using the compression tool after I activated the "service mode" in the "parking brake" category of the app.

The piston could not be pushed back in, no matter if you disengage (or not engage) the parking brake before working on it.
The app covers exactly the steps 2 and 5, as you mentioned.

On a different note - the "exhaust flap" might be an another interesting feature for some enthusiasts, as it electronically opens the second (driver side) exhaust flap when you start the engine. That contributes to an improved exhaust sound, even at lower speeds.

Cheers
MMM Not sure why no one in this post mention or used the bimmerlink app to be able to push the piston back in. A lot of different information here and there. maybe you didn't rotated it at the same time?
https://g05.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1614088
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      01-28-2023, 07:43 AM   #32
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I just saw this thread. I haven't done the rears on our car but I did see this in TIS:
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      01-28-2023, 10:00 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmsteinm View Post
I just saw this thread. I haven't done the rears on our car but I did see this in TIS:
Yes, Bimmerlink handles that but you can also do it manually as I did.
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      02-17-2023, 11:22 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmsteinm View Post
I just saw this thread. I haven't done the rears on our car but I did see this in TIS:

Those TIS notes add a weird step. It actually says, after doing just the front brakes to cycle the ebrake. Then it says to apply the ebrake after any pad exchange before pressing the brake pedal.

Last edited by Bking60; 02-17-2023 at 11:39 AM..
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      06-24-2023, 12:21 PM   #35
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I just completed a rear brake job (pads only) on my '21 X5 4.0 (has the red M-Sport brakes).
I have an Autel MaxiDiag Elite scanner, and thought this would help me with the job by activating the EPB service mode. Unfortunately my car is not recognized, and it seems there are no updates available. Dammit. So I had to manually retract the EPB. Here's my synopsis:

Just remember to ensure the electronic parking brake is DEACTIVATED BEFORE you carry out the job (as in, the parking brake lever's red light ON THE CENTER CONSOLE is OFF). After that it's a standard disassembly: remove wheel, unbolt caliper. Once you do that you'll need to undo the two small bolts fastening the EPB to the caliper. Those bolts had a surprising amount of corrosion at the top near the bolt head, and took some effort to unscrew. I had to hit them with a wire brush before reassembly.

After that, insert a T-42 torx bit into the hole in the center circle of the caliper where the EPB connects and slowly turn CLOCKWISE until it can't turn any more. don't try to force it, don't use power tools. Just manually wind it clockwise till you feel resistance. Boom, done.

Next, you can compress the caliper piston (compress- NOT turn, NOT wind back in) just as you would any normal caliper. Once it bottoms out, boom done. Replace the old pads and metal brackets with the new ones )new metal brackets included in the new brake pad kit), and add a bit of brake grease to the pad nubs to ensure smooth movement.

Rejoin the EPB back to the caliper. There is a metal bracket (holds the EPB wire and brake hose) that sits on the EPB that can be a bit annoying to get back in place; for me it took a good 15 minutes to get it to sit right. Once done, tighten the small EPB bolts.

Reseat the caliper, use the two new bolts (that came with the brake pad kit) to secure in place (you'll need a second wrench to hold the caliper slide pin so it doesn't spin with the caliper bolt). Snug that down, bit don't go nuts on it; there's a special place in hell for people who overtighten bolts. Remount the tire, torque the lugs to 105 ft/lbs. Boom, left side done.

Now do the same thing for the right side; yup, there's an EPB mechanism on each rear caliper. The only difference is that the right side has the wear sensor feeding into the inside brake pad. Replacement is straightforward; just follow the wire all the way to the small black box in the wheel well where it connects to the harness. Pull it out of each anchor spot (some can require a bit of force to free it), replace with the new wire.

Put the tire back on, torque lugs to 105 ft/lbs. Then get in the car. DO NOT PRESS THE BRAKE. Just sit in the car and activate the parking brake by pulling the lever on the center console. You'll here both EPB's activate, and it will take a second or two longer than normal because you just wound it back all the way. Then deactivate it (causing the red light to turn off). Then press the brake pedal a few times to build up pressure and a firm pedal response.

Turn on the engine. Oh no, you're still getting that message about needing brakes, and the yellow wrench is still showing up on the dash! Don't sweat it, you just gotta reset the on-board computer. You know the procedure- you hit the start button three times then hold down the top button on the end of the indicator stalk for 10-15 seconds. I won't waste the time to describe here, there are tons of YouTube videos that walk you through it in detail. Resetting the internal clock removes the warnings and dash lights. Boom, you're done. Put your tools away, call your neighbors in to your garage and let them look on in awe at your mastery of all things on the earth and in the seas.

With all this said, I'm definitely gonna get Carly or Bimmercode or something. It will save me at least 30-45 mins of tedious annoying work.

One more thing- I changed my rear pads at 56k due to the dash light coming on. When I removed the pads, they still had a fair bit of meat left on them, not yet what I would consider emergency territory (see the photo). I also drove the car for 1,300 miles after the light came on (not intentionally, I had to wait for the parts to be delivered, and shipment was delayed). Prior to the brake job, I examined the rotors, and they are still in very good shape; no grooves, no significant lip on the rotor edge. So I opted to do pads only. I used ATE pads from pelicanparts.com, cost approx $80. I love the bite and stopping power of the genuine BMW pads, and I know that ATE is an OE supplier for BMW, so I'll be closely monitoring the performance of these pads. If I don't like them , I'll swap themout for the genuine BMW pads.


Hope this helps. Spread the knowledge.

Bklynchris
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Last edited by bklynchris; 06-24-2023 at 12:34 PM..
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      08-19-2023, 11:46 AM   #36
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Jealous of folks who knows what they’re doing with breaks.
I will surrender around $3000 to dealers for this job
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      09-06-2023, 08:17 PM   #37
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Can someone PLEASE confirm that using BimmerLink works?

bklynchris

If I deactivate EPB mechanism via BimmerLink then all I would need to do is just compress the caliper like any other ?
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      10-14-2023, 09:46 AM   #38
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Confirmed that Bimmerlink works. I changed my brakes a few weekends ago and disabling the EPB via Bimmerlink enables you to decompress the rear calipers with no CEL issue. FWIW I ended up going with the Powersrop and huge noticeable difference in brake dust. Much less with stopping power like OEM.
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      10-14-2023, 10:12 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrizzX5 View Post
kgelfen360

Confirmed that Bimmerlink works. I changed my brakes a few weekends ago and disabling the EPB via Bimmerlink enables you to decompress the rear calipers with no CEL issue. FWIW I ended up going with the Powersrop and huge noticeable difference in brake dust. Much less with stopping power like OEM.
Thanks man!! I actually did them two weeks ago as well. It was super easy with BimmerLink.
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