01-13-2021, 12:30 PM | #177 | |
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I think the 6<>2 on the charger means it will charge at 6 amps and maintain at 2. From all of the non-user reviews I read it seems like this is a start and forget type of charger/maintainer that can used for long periods of time. In my opinion a charger/maintainer is rarely needed in normal operation (whatever that may mean ). It is only when the vehicle will be setting idle for a few weeks or more does it need to be hooked up. Edit: Looking at the manual it looks like the charging can be 12, 6 or 2amps.
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01-13-2021, 03:30 PM | #178 |
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I am wondering, and please bear with me, I am still very new at all this, and you all seem to be far more experienced than I am.
What is the benefit of going through this charge/trickle cycle, especially with this My21 X5s? We have seen so far that we need a higher amp charger to top off, and possibly an elevated trickle charge to keep it full. We have also seen that the parasitic drain is more in this vehicle. I started this exercise thinking I will go through this charge cycle once a month, but now I know that once I disconnect the charger, it is going to slide down to what it is today. It is sure not affecting the performance of the vehicle in any share or form, so why do we even bother to keep it topped off? I drive this vehicle 50 - 100 miles a week the most. BTW, I ordered the Schumacher SC1281, but then I am not going to connect the charger every time I park the vehicle back in the garage.
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01-13-2021, 05:27 PM | #179 |
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CTEK MXS5.0 charger now shows full charge, static at stage 7. Took about 19 - 20 hours or so. It's truly a mystery to me as to why it took so much time considering it was already charged when I took it out for an hour drive.
I have this super urge to unplug and drive the vehicle but I will leave it as is just to see if the CTEK trickles enough and holds stage 7.
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01-13-2021, 06:45 PM | #180 |
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Long gone are the days when after you turned your vehicle off, there weren't at least some drains on the battery. Things like remote control fobs still need the receiver to be operating, and most all BMWs come with alarm systems. Then, throw in that most have a cellular connection so you can check status, remote start the vehicle, ask it where it is, flash the lights, or honk the horn and lock, unlock, or roll up the windows or close the sunroof...
With all of the computers in the vehicle in a distributed system that talk to each other via a serial bus (CANBUS), they can also miss the message that says go to sleep, and drain things faster on occasion. Some of the models now have a clutch on the alternator and that is only engaged when you press on the brakes or take your foot off of the gas to try to recharge the battery...it's not running all of the time; it's controlled by the computer. So, depending on what you're doing, how you're driving, how cold it is, how much you sit at idle while the engine is off, the load on the poor battery is significantly higher than older tech vehicles. If your use profile matches the 'norm', the battery will be maintained without you doing anything extra. I'm not sure who that average person is, but many have found that their battery is not kept near full. It won't hurt to plug a maintainer in every time you park it, but it's not absolutely going to make a difference. The unfortunate end result, though, is that if yours isn't being charged enough, it will die early, and maybe leave you stranded without a jump around. How long you can go in between without adding a trickle charger/maintainer, hard to say for sure. Keep in mind that cold starts in the winter are really hard on batteries...lots of current required and cold restricts any battery from making maximum power out. And, during those cold starts, you may be running seat heaters, rear window defrosters, seat heaters, and running the lights with the shorter days, all of which are significant power users. Throw in some idling in traffic when the engine might turn off, and no charging will occur during that time. You may not encounter an issue with your battery. It might disappoint you unexpectedly. Pay attention to any messages about battery status. If you get one, you'll know you need to start to do things differently. While AGM batteries are better able to handle a deeper discharge than a common wet cell one, if the battery state of charge is low and it's really cold, worst case, the electrolyte could freeze and split the battery case. As the battery gets charged, the freezing point drops. |
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01-13-2021, 07:40 PM | #181 | |
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Thank you, that was a pretty elaborate and helpful explanation. Truly appreciated! Learning about the vehicle's what and whys on a daily basis.
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01-15-2021, 04:37 PM | #182 |
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Folks - question on using a voltmeter. I was planning to buy one, but unsure as to where I would connect it, in the terminals under the hood or to the main battery in the back? Appreciate your input.
This is the one, I was planning to get - MOTOPOWER MP0514D 12V Digital Battery Tester Voltmeter and Charging System Link: https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0...5CK6WDWNC8MZQY
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01-15-2021, 04:59 PM | #183 |
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There are many on here more knowledgeable than I am but I would use the terminals under the hood.
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01-15-2021, 07:21 PM | #184 |
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FWIW, not all 12vdc batteries are created equal. So, it does not appear that device can be set to understand the differences between an AGM and a flooded wet cell type battery, so I'm not sure how accurate its information will be. The two types of batteries are similar but not identical, so subtle differences, depending on how the thing is programmed, may not be able to be determined. I think I'd want to call their tech support to verify it will work properly with an AGM.
You could try connecting it to the terminals underneath the hood. The size of the cables are large enough in the vehicle so that there should not be much of a difference in voltage between there and at the battery especially when just sitting there (the voltage would potentially change if there was high current moving...conductors can act like a resister and there would be a voltage drop across their length, but with no or limited current, there's little relative difference. |
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01-15-2021, 07:33 PM | #185 | |
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Quote:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B087R...ob_neva_mobile
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01-17-2021, 09:06 PM | #186 |
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I opened the battery compartment today and this is how it looks. I was under the impression that I have 105ah, but it turns out I have 92ah. Have you guys checked what your battery rating is?
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01-18-2021, 05:36 AM | #187 | |
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Here is a post by lumpydog: "G05 uses two batteries.... One in the trunk and one in the engine compartment. Depending on your features, the engine compartment Aux battery is either AGM or Lithium. From the training manual: • AGM starter battery in the luggage compartment with 90 Ah or 105 Ah • Auxiliary AGM battery in the engine compartment with 60 Ah OR • Lithium ion auxiliary battery in the engine compartment with 10 Ah An auxiliary battery in the engine compartment is used to provide assistance for the vehicle electrical system. On vehicles with electric active roll stabilization, the two anti-roll bar actuators are also supplied with power by this battery. The dual storage system is used in vehicles without active roll stabilization; a 10 Ah lithium ion battery is installed parallel to the AGM battery."
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01-18-2021, 07:42 AM | #188 |
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With the introduction of 48v System it seems to get even more complicated, it looks like there are three voltage systems on 2021 that has Electromechanical power steering (EPS) with Integral Active Steering (IAS ):
12v AGM battery for vehicle electronics (and Active Roll Stabilization (ARS) ?!?) 48v lithium battery for mild hybrid. 24v battery for vehicle with (IAS) ?!? All controlled by Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS)? Getting really confusing. Have a look at the TIS info below - click to open the picture attachment, it'll open in separate window:
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01-18-2021, 08:13 AM | #189 | |
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Getting to the battery compartment was not very difficult. There are seven push tab kinda fasteners. Used a tiny flat-head to release those and that unhooked the cover. Question - How do I know if my vehicle has DHP with Active Roll Assistant or not? I do see two bars when I peek underneath the vehicle. But not sure if those are even related to the feature in question.
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01-18-2021, 08:44 AM | #190 |
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ChiefOne, DHP is an optional package. In States it is not available for 2021 40i, unfortunately. DHP has 3 options that are packaged together. Two of those options are:
Integral Active Steering (IAS), also known as four wheel steering. Electronic Active Roll Stabilization (EARS), also known as ARS. It does not impact you, but if you're curious find more details on my Dynamic Handling Package (DHP) thread: https://g05.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1762618
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01-18-2021, 04:15 PM | #191 | |
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gotcha, thanks!
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01-18-2021, 04:19 PM | #192 | |
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Looks like a good product, but because of the lack of my knowledge and comfort in this area, I would be extremely hesitant to leave something connected permanently to the battery terminals. And now since I have learned to open the battery compartment, I use that to check the voltage. I have had some interesting learning though in the past few days. I will post those shortly.
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02-07-2021, 09:50 AM | #193 |
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Li-Ion battery capacity information (located in engine bay). I have DHP.
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02-24-2021, 02:08 PM | #194 |
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ChiefOne How did the Schumacher charger work? Have you had a chance to run your test with it? Thanks
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02-25-2021, 01:21 PM | #195 |
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2021 x5 4.0 trickle charging solution
This solution is for model year 2021 X5 4.0 (NOT 2019 OR 2020) The mild hybrid set up has kept me and others on this site from charging the battery using the under hood terminals. After asking a BMW service manager for a solution he proceeded to ask his field service engineer for an answer. The answer was that I should hook up charger directly to ACM BATTERY IN THE TRUNK. The engineer stated that when battery was over 50% charged that it would automatically overflow into the other batteries under the hood. (mild hybrid) I hooked up to the battery utilizing the eyelet pigtail accessory. I used my new Ctek 5.0 charger and pigtail attachment and all went well. If you use the pigtail be careful to not "manhandle" the hardware nuts on the terminal as they seem to be fragile. You could also the alligator clips but the eyelet pigtail is much more convenient. When using the eyelet pig tail you can use the pre made hole at the top of the plastic cover to thread it through for easy occasional access. If you have any questions you can call me at 614-901-9958 (RAY)
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02-25-2021, 03:01 PM | #196 |
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What does the manual say about this? All the manuals I have read say you must NEVER connect a charger directly to the battery terminals. I don't have a manual for the mild hybrid, so I can't check that one.
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02-25-2021, 03:18 PM | #197 | |
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I have the MHEV system as well and the manual specifically says to not connect to the battery and always use the terminals. See attached screenshot I'd bring this to the service manager and engineer's attention and then look for a different service location.
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02-25-2021, 04:39 PM | #198 |
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I have successfully charged battery three times (MY21 40i) using the steps below:
1. Start the vehicle and turn off, then turn off the iDrive manually by pressing the volume knob a few seconds. This ensures iDrive go into sleep mode (also known as idle state, see details on this at the end of the post). This seems to be the trick. If you want to be extra careful then use Digital Key Card to do the steps. It removes another variable (comfort access proximity sensors used by key fobs). 2. Open door, exit car, open bonnet, and close door (don't lock yet). Keep the bonnet open until charging is complete (THIS IS A MUST), two U-shaped bonnet latches should not go into the sockets (this is how vehicle knows if the bonnet remains open or not). 3. Connect charger cables in this sequence: positive > negative > charger power. 4. Lock the car. Don't open doors while the car being charged, this might cause charging/battery related error codes being displayed on iDrive later. Note that you might hear a few actuator motors makes brief noises between engine bay and dashboard as if those are trying to open/close something, this is normal. A few LEDs on buttons around driver seat will continue to be illuminated for about 15 minutes and turn off automatically after a while, this is also normal. 5. Move away from the car and don't do anything that might wake up the iDrive. 6. When battery is fully charged disconnect the cables in reverse order: charger power > negative > positive. Close hood/bonnet. Depending on the charger type and battery charge state it might take long, I usually keep it going overnight. —————————————————- Good to Know: Idle state: When the vehicle is in idle state, it is switched off. All power consumers are deactivated. The vehicle is in idle state prior to opening from the outside and after exiting and locking. The idle state is automatically established under the following conditions: ▷ After several minutes, if no operation takes place on the vehicle. ▷ If the charge state of the vehicle battery is low. ▷ Depending on the setting via iDrive, if one of the front doors is opened when exiting the vehicle. The idle state is not automatically established while a phone call is active. Establishing idle state when opening the front doors 1. "CAR" 2. "Settings" 3. "Doors/Access" 4. "Turn off vehicle after opening door" Manually activate idle state: To establish idle state in the vehicle after end of trip press and hold the power/volume button until the OFF indicator on the instrument cluster goes out. You will visually see the screen animation is turning off.
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