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      04-08-2024, 10:51 PM   #1
benaj
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Dual Pollak plug with Stealth Hitch

Any of you out there gone the hybrid route using Stealth Hitch hardware but with the OE BMW trailer wiring retrofit kit #71602475103? How did you mount the BMW Pollak plug to the Stealth Z bracket?

I would prefer to use the dual 7pin/4pin Hopkins #40974 style plug for convenience vs having to keep track of a plug adapter provided with the full Stealth active towing kit.

I assume I will need to fabricate some intermediate adapter to adapt between the Stealth Z bracket and the Hopkins style 90 degree metal mounting bracket but looking to see what others may have done before me.

Thanks!
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      04-09-2024, 01:58 PM   #2
GerryC
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I have the factory hitch on my G05, but I did go the Stealth route on my F15. On that one I wasn't thrilled with the quality of the 7-pin Pollak connector that they provided, so I replaced it with a Hopkins 7-pin which fit in the bracket just fine. Hopkins has a 90 deg bracket for the Pollak dual connector. It may work with the Stealth Z-bracket, but you may have clearance issues.

While I get your desire to use the BMW 7-pin/4-pin connector, I find that it's no benefit. The issue is that BMW provides light circuit monitors on the trailer circuits. Most newer trailers have LED lights that don't draw enough current to satisfy the monitors. The result is error messages and lights that don't work. As a result I use this adapter from etrailer.com that includes added loads to fool the sensors.

I'd just use a standard 7-pin connector and the above adapter. One thing I do recommend is to use liquid electrical tape where the wires go into the back of the connector. With the vertical mounting orientation on the Stealth hitch water can get into the connector and it doesn't drain out through the water tight cover on the front (bottom) side.
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      04-09-2024, 06:40 PM   #3
djohn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GerryC View Post
The issue is that BMW provides light circuit monitors on the trailer circuits. Most newer trailers have LED lights that don't draw enough current to satisfy the monitors. The result is error messages and lights that don't work.
My experience was that there were initially error messages going off, but after a day or so the software in the vehicle seemed to adjust itself to what it was experiencing with the trailer. I know it seems silly, but did you try just waiting?

And the detection still works: just yesterday I had the cable get caught up and it popped out when I took a turn. Immediately, I got all the notifications, including the fast click when using the blinkers to let you know that it's not working right.
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      04-10-2024, 01:40 PM   #4
benaj
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Thanks for the comments, much appreciated.

Good call on adding liquid electrical tape/RTV around the wire entry into the back of the socket. I was already pondering about the suboptimal position of the plug with the Stealth Hitch install and what will that mean over time with salty sludge accumulating up in there. Your suggestion is probable the best answer.
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