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      12-09-2020, 10:52 PM   #1
Noneya
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First time changing wheels

Going to swap to winter setup this weekend and it'll be my first time doing it and need some help.

I know a lot of people just lift the car and change one wheel at a time without using jack stands. What I don't understand is how do I get a jack stand under the car if I decide to take the safer path. I haven't looked under the car yet, but from what I understand there are 5 official jack points on an X5M - four on the sides and one middle front. I get I could lift the front two wheels using the middle point and put jack stands to switch front two wheels. But I don't understand how to do the same for back wheels.

I also remember reading somewhere that X5M is stiff enough that you can lift both wheels on one side by jacking it up at one of the side points. If that's true I can see putting one jack stand on that side.

As you can see I'm pretty confused about the process. Any advice? As far as relevant tools go I have two jack stands, one hydraulic jack and whatever jack came with the spare wheel.
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      12-10-2020, 10:54 AM   #2
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Jack stands are a must if your getting under the car yourself. If not why complicate things. Just jack up and change one wheel at a time. I’m on my second winter with the G05 so have done 3 changes now. No issues doing it that way. Invest in a jack pad though. Very cheap of amazon. Keeps your jacking points pristine. Otherwise a lot of weight supported by a piece of plastic that can bend out of shape.
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      12-10-2020, 04:26 PM   #3
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If you are not crawling under the car I don't see jack stands necessary. Like the poster above said 1 wheel at a time with a good quality floor jack that is rated to support your vehicle ( personally would not use any scissor jack that comes with the car they are widowmakers). A jack pad is helpful, 2 wheel chocks, breaker bar with a 17mm deep socket for lugs and a torque wrench. optional wheel hanger pin and most importantly common sense.
https://www.amazon.ca/POTAUTO-Univer...7631413&sr=8-5

something like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/MAXPOWER-2-Inc...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
or
https://www.amazon.ca/Powerbuilt-940...7631548&sr=8-5

these are just examples.

Skill Level 2 out of 10

1. Decide which wheel you want to start on first.
2. put tire chock behind opposite wheel (opposite side of car from wheel you are removing) I use 2 chocks one behind the rear wheel and one in front of the front wheel, this will depend on your slope of surface area you are working on. Try to do the tire change on flat ground so your car doesn't roll. Chocks are to prevent the car from rolling.
3. place jack under the jack point and place the jackpad on top of the hydraulic jack cradle.
4. slowly pump the hydraulic jack until the jack pad comes close to the jack point, re-align jack pad so that it lines up with the jack point receptacle. Give the floor jack another pump so the jackpad inserts into the jack point.
5. Now loosen or "break free" the lug bolts with the breaker bar or tire iron. Don't remove the lugs just yet, just loosen. Make sure you have the lug nut key if you have locks installed.
6. Jack up the car so the wheels are approximately 2-4" clearance off the ground. No need to go any higher. Lock floor jack into position by twisting handle (refer to jack owners manual and get yourself familiar with the operation of the jack before you begin)
7. Remove lug bolts and place to the side ( I use magnetic tray so I don't lose them rolling around). Before you remove the last lug bolt make sure to hold onto the tire and keep is steady. There is a chance the wheel will fall off the hub after you remove the last lug and you don't hold the tire straight. You don't want to damage the wheel or have it fall off and scrape your brake calipers etc.
8. Once the lugs are removed you can carefully lift off the tire.
9. OPTIONAL BUT RECOMMENDED: Inspect lugs for damage or cross threading. Clean lugs with a shot of WD40 and wipe clean. Inspect wheel hubs and clean with a rag, toothbrush or soft wire brush, to remove any caked on crap. you can remove the center caps if you plan to re-use them on the new wheels.
10. Apply some anti-sieze on the outside of the the hub where the wheel will re-mount. (will make it easier to remove wheels next time)
11. Get your new wheel and gently lift on to the hub. Make sure it seats on the hub flush. S-L-O-W-L-Y- Spin the rim so the lug holes line up.
12. Insert first lug bolt and hand tighten only. Be sure not to force the lug bolt into the hole. If it does not go in freely you may have to slightly spin the rim so the holes are perfectly lined up. Make sure not to cross thread. Back out lug and try again if you feel you are forcing too much.
13. install remaining lug bolts- hand tighten.
14. Once all bolts are properly seated and hand tightened you can use your 17mm wrench to snug them up. Your wheel will probably spin a bit once you snug them up.
15. Once you are happy and all the lugs are snugged up and the wheel is seated flush onto the hub you can very gently and slowing lower the car to the ground, but not all the way. Just enough that the tires make solid contact with the ground and there is still a slight bit of weight on the jack.Don't just drop the car too fast.
16. Once the car wheels are on the ground
17. At this point you can tighten the lugs the rest of the way with a torque wrench or 17mm socket & wrench. start with the first bolt, then tighten the opposite bolt, then the opposite of that bolt and so on ( use a star pattern to tighten bolts) torque to 101 ft/lb.( check your owners manual for proper wheel torque spec for your particular vehicle)
TIP: If you removed the center caps make a habit of putting them back on ONLY AFTER you have properly torqued the lugs to spec. This way you know that you have torqued that wheel.
10. Lower vehicle all the way and remove jack and jack pad( should fall out when you lower the jack all the way.

Move on to the other wheels. This is just a very basic how-to that will get your wheels swapped over safely providing you use some common sense. If you do not feel comfortable with the basics then take it to a professional to do. There are lots of you tube videos for reference as well. I do a lot more than just the basics when i swap my wheels, thoroughly clean hubs, lugs and holes. Also a good time to clean inside wheel wells. Shine up the calipers and a coat of ceramic or wax etc. If this is something you are going to do yourself on a regular seasonal basis get yourself some good quality basic tools and a good floor jack. I hope this helps. Good Luck and be safe.
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Last edited by denaliman; 12-10-2020 at 04:40 PM..
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      12-10-2020, 08:53 PM   #4
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Other tools for convenience

That was a really good write up denaliman

These wheel hangers make putting the wheel back on significantly easier, rather than using brute force to hold the tire up and putting a lug nut or two on while still aligning the holes. Make sure to get the M14 x 1.25s. NOT the M14 x 1.5s.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SFZ6YJL...p_mob_ap_share

Non-marking deep lug nut also helps to ensure you don't scratch the lug nut areas of your wheels, but not entirely necessary.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TCBKJ0...p_mob_ap_share
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      12-10-2020, 11:35 PM   #5
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Thanks! I did already get all of those accessories as well, trying to be more prepared for it (IND hangers, non marring lug nut, puck adapters, wheel chocks, impact wrench, torque wrench). Sounds like I may have overdone it buying jack stands as well. I'll report back how the wheel change goes.
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      12-11-2020, 08:38 PM   #6
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Way back when, I owned a Citroen ID19. To change a tire on that, you raised the suspension up to max, inserted a bipod on the lug on the middle of the vehicle chassis, and then let all of the pressure out of the suspension. That lifted the wheels up so those two on that side were now in the air. I don't think that air suspension has enough travel on the X5, but it might be interesting to check...once up all the way, put a sturdy block under the frame and lower the suspension to minimum.
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      12-11-2020, 08:54 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jad03060 View Post
Way back when, I owned a Citroen ID19. To change a tire on that, you raised the suspension up to max, inserted a bipod on the lug on the middle of the vehicle chassis, and then let all of the pressure out of the suspension. That lifted the wheels up so those two on that side were now in the air. I don't think that air suspension has enough travel on the X5, but it might be interesting to check...once up all the way, put a sturdy block under the frame and lower the suspension to minimum.
I am visualizing a mass of BMW engineers turning over in their graves in response to this suggestion. Graves that they initially ended up in after having simultaneous heart attacks upon reading that suggestion. Sounds fun, someone should try just to test for that effect :-).
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      12-11-2020, 09:23 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexxM3 View Post
I am visualizing a mass of BMW engineers turning over in their graves in response to this suggestion. Graves that they initially ended up in after having simultaneous heart attacks upon reading that suggestion. Sounds fun, someone should try just to test for that effect :-).
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      12-12-2020, 12:01 AM   #9
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The big difference between the suspension on the Citroen and the air suspension on the X5 is the range. When you let the fluid out of the suspension, the thing had maybe a couple of inches of ground clearance and literally no springs. When pumped up to high, it was nearly a foot, so the delta was enough to pull the wheels up away from the ground easily. On their suspension, to adjust the height, you pump more or less hydraulic fluid into the system, and the shocks just meter that fluid in/out of the chamber. The actual spring is a nitrogen filled sphere at the top of the assembly, rather than just pumping on more or less air on the X5. They're both fully progressive springs, but other than that, quite different. The system ran at about 24-2500 psi hydraulic pressure.

Anyway, way off topic, but hopefully interesting!

I think the range between min/max on the X5 is maybe close to 3" difference.
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      12-14-2020, 11:47 AM   #10
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I excitedly unpackaged the wheels to change them yesterday, only to discover that I was apparently sent 3 front wheels and one rear wheel. So, depending on how fast shipping is this week, I may get to try again coming weekend.
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      12-14-2020, 11:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noneya View Post
I excitedly unpackaged the wheels to change them yesterday, only to discover that I was apparently sent 3 front wheels and one rear wheel. So, depending on how fast shipping is this week, I may get to try again coming weekend.
What wheels are you going with?
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      12-14-2020, 12:11 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by denaliman View Post
What wheels are you going with?
The stock winter set - 808M orbit grey.
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      12-14-2020, 12:26 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Noneya View Post
The stock winter set - 808M orbit grey.
Ok yes. This is a little confusing and some parts guys do not understand or overlook. The tire size is the same all around. However, the width of the actual rim is different. Fronts are 10.5" wide and rears are 11" wide. Only way to tell is to look at the inside identifier on the wheel for the size. Thus the 2 different part numbers 36112471521 front and 36112471522 rear. My E71 X6M had BMW winter wheels and on the face of the rim was stamped F and R which made it easy to identify which axle each wheel went on.
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      12-16-2020, 09:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noneya View Post
Going to swap to winter setup this weekend and it'll be my first time doing it and need some help.


I also remember reading somewhere that X5M is stiff enough that you can lift both wheels on one side by jacking it up at one of the side points. If that's true I can see putting one jack stand on that side.
Maybe the X5 is also stiff enough, but the X5M can easily lift both wheels on one side by using a hydraulic floor jack under (with protective disc) one jack pad. I prefer the pad near the front. Of course, place a jack stand under the rear pad and I also place a second jack stand under the front center point just in case the jack has a malfunction.
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      12-21-2020, 09:34 AM   #15
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Changed the wheels yesterday, and it all went very smoothly with no issues. Just jacked next to each wheel to lift it up just an inch or two. The other wheel did not go up at the same time - I assume I'd have to lift higher for that but that would've made putting the new wheel back on a lot harder. Really glad I had the hangers as these wheels are very heavy.
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      12-21-2020, 11:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noneya View Post
Changed the wheels yesterday, and it all went very smoothly with no issues. Just jacked next to each wheel to lift it up just an inch or two. The other wheel did not go up at the same time - I assume I'd have to lift higher for that but that would've made putting the new wheel back on a lot harder. Really glad I had the hangers as these wheels are very heavy.
Awesome. Glad it worked out for you. I was worried the first time as well and felt I was a bit overkill in my research just to swap wheels, but it's better being safe and ready. Safe drives this winter!
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