09-20-2023, 11:54 AM | #1 |
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2024 BMW x5 Hybrid - NEMA 14-50 Charging
I just got a 2024 BMW x5 xDrive 50e. I have a nema 14-50 outlet and I can't get the right adaptor to work with my Flexible Fast Charger (Type 6). I got an adaptor - part # 61-90-5-A13-A61 and it does not fit. Also, the light is Yellow with a Red exclamation.
At this point I don't know if I need a different 14-50 adaptor or a different Flexible Fast Charger. What part number do I need to get? I live in the US. Also, once I get the right part and I can use the 14-50, do I need to change the setting on the car for the higher voltage? |
09-20-2023, 12:31 PM | #2 | |
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2024 is a generation 2 charger. So you need a gen 2 NEMA adapter as well. |
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09-20-2023, 12:33 PM | #3 | |
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The part you listed is for the 1.0 charger. Go to your parts department and have them use your VIN to look up the correct part number and order the correct 14-50 adapter. You'll need to possibly change the A/C limit on charging to whatever your outlet can handle without tripping the breaker.
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09-20-2023, 12:47 PM | #6 |
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appears to be correct, but double check with your parts department and they'll verify with the VIN
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09-20-2023, 01:14 PM | #7 |
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Assuming your electrical circuit is built for a 50A branch, you can set your X5 to 32A inputs...just like you can plug a cellphone charger into a 15A circuit, you can plug your FFS into one that can handle more than it wants, and the same thing with any PHEV or EV. As long as everything's working properly, the vehicle will never try to pull more power than the EVSE says it has, and if the circuit for the EVSE is proper, while it can support up to 40A (which it will tell any vehicle attached), the vehicle will understand that, and as long as it won't exceed that value, it will just use what it wants unless the EVSE tells the vehicle it can't supply that much, and the vehicle will respond. IOW, there's no reason to lower the X5's internal limit unless the EVSE is on a shared circuit, and that load, combined with something else, might overload the circuit (but not the EVSE). HOpefully, that makes sense. The charging circuit is IN the vehicle...the EVSE is a semismart power cord. Using the different cord adapters on the FFS programs the EVSE to match it's output with the input, thus, it limits the level 1 input to 10A rather than 40A (it could have been 12A, but in the USA, that garage circuit is often shared with a garage door opener, some lights, and maybe an additional receptacle that you might plug in a power tool, vacuum cleaner, etc., ad overload the circuit). Code requires the derating of a circuit to NGT 80% when it can be on for extended times, thus the 10/12A on a 15A circuit, or the 40A on the 50A circuit.
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09-20-2023, 03:49 PM | #8 | |
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11-06-2023, 06:38 PM | #9 |
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Hi guys, I just got an X5 50e last month. Its flexible fast charger adapter looks like this:
How can I tell if this is a 1.0 adapter or a 2.0 one? From other posts, it seems that new 50e comes with a 2.0 one? In addition, I have one NEMA 5-15 cable with it. I am planning to install one NEMA 14-50 outlet in my garage. Should I buy a new cable in this model (61-44-8-490-525), assuming the adapter is a 2.0 one? https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...50-61448490525 |
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11-06-2023, 06:56 PM | #10 |
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Yes , that's a 2.0 charger .
I purchased my adapter here and it works great . Less then 3 hours to charging to 100% now https://parts.bmwoforlandpark.com/p/...448490525.html |
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11-06-2023, 10:37 PM | #11 |
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11-07-2023, 12:16 AM | #12 | |
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11-07-2023, 12:21 AM | #13 | |
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I just looked , it's the same cable you posted that link to |
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11-07-2023, 12:27 AM | #14 | |
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11-07-2023, 12:33 AM | #15 |
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11-07-2023, 09:27 PM | #16 |
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FWIW, IMHO, if you'll be moving your EVSE so will need to plug and unplug it from the wall, you need to be conscious of maintaining a viable socket. More than a few people have run into problems with the typical socket their electrician wired in for them, avoiding the higher quality one that should work longer without issues. The one often used is plastic, costs in the $20 range. One that will last longer without breaking down and potentially melting, is more like $120 and is made of Bakelite, which can handle the heat from the extended times the EVSE may be on. That type of plug is often used on a stove or drier, that typically doesn't run continuously, as their heating elements will be cycling on/off, limiting the heat buildup. But, an EVSE will run continuously, without turning off for potentially hours, and heat buildup then becomes an issue.
My preference on any EVSE installation is to hardwire the thing...one less connection and less likely to develop problems. The spring tension on the socket will be degraded by the heating/cooling and also by the insertion/removal of the plug. Just be aware of that. If it isn't stiff to insert the plug, replace the socket. |
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11-08-2023, 10:31 PM | #17 | |
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https://www.amazon.ca/ONETAK-Welding...56&sr=8-8&th=1 |
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11-09-2023, 05:12 PM | #18 | |
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To reprogram the FFC, you need their specific adapter cord. Depending on where in the world, there are probably at least a dozen different one to account for the national plug, and power situation. Right now, the USA seems to maybe get three...the one from the factory is 10A/120vac, or 40A/240vac. Rumor has it that there's a 16A/120vac cord (there was for the version1), but it has not been confirmed that they made one for the version 2. Last edited by jad03060; 11-09-2023 at 11:22 PM.. |
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11-17-2023, 02:31 PM | #19 | |
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11-17-2023, 04:45 PM | #20 | |
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still, you've got it backwards. if the homes have 6-50 outlets, they'll need a 14-50 female receptacle to 6-50 male plug adapter, not a 6-50 female receptacle to 14-50 male plug adapter which you linked. Last edited by nZtiZia; 11-17-2023 at 04:51 PM.. |
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11-21-2023, 12:06 AM | #21 | |
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https://www.amazon.ca/Compact-Adapte...40&sr=8-7&th=1 I purchase 3 of 14-50 L2 chargers installed at 3 different locations, 2 of them have 6-50 plus so I need to convert them, none of them failed on me so far. |
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11-21-2023, 04:10 PM | #22 |
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Compared to an EV, the PHEV doesn't have that large of a battery, and its maximum charge rate isn't huge either. But, a bigger battery, or a heavier draw onboard charger would create more heat in any socket, so the odds of problems goes up as the duration of the charge and the rate of the charge increases. The odds are, your next PHEV or EV will have a larger battery, and the likelihood of problems will increase.
One thing that should be done during an installation is to actually torque the connections to specifications, otherwise, over time through heating/cooling cycles during use, the screws can loosen, adding resistance, and creating heat that can literally melt some sockets or burn up the wiring. IOW, it depends on how long it's been in use, whether you'll start to see issues. If everything was done properly, you may never see any, but a hard-wired install has one less connection that could be wrong. Another side effect of a poor connection is that the heat generated is energy you're not getting to put into the vehicle that you're paying for, but it's relatively minor. My simple Clipper Creek unit draws about 2-3W while idling...a smarter one with a processor to maintain a wireless link and a bigger display will draw more. Some people unplug things when not in use...the power costs aren't that high that I do that very often, but it still does cost something. I'm more concerned with that extra plug overheating, so I had mine hard-wired. |
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