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      10-05-2023, 12:51 PM   #23
eelnoraa
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Originally Posted by Fegelein View Post
No, not the entire reason, but it gets warmer though. ESPECIALLY from the GTS, which has the Lt Wt Sport package. That must have compromised the insulation and or composition of the hood. Even when it rains, you can see the hood steaming the rain a little. My BMW isn't like that, but it does add it's share of heat as well. I can't see how all heat could possibly be retained regardless, it's not a sealed system, so...
It is exactly I am trying to say. If you can detect heat outside of the car, it means heat is dissipating outside. The more heat it escape, the sooner engine will come to ambient after shutting off.

The 2nd part is also what I am trying to say. It is impossible keep engine hot to touch at 48hours without active heating, espeically the the oil pan isn't insulated
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      10-05-2023, 12:56 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eelnoraa View Post
It is exactly I am trying to say. If you can detect heat outside of the car, it means heat is dissipating outside. The more heat it escape, the sooner engine will come to ambient after shutting off.

The 2nd part is also what I am trying to say. It is impossible keep engine hot to touch at 48hours without active heating, espeically the the oil pan isn't insulated
I think you might be confusing me w/ the OP who said 48 hours.
I never even tried to touch my engine to check for heat. lol
I also thought you meant there was a issue w/ my garage, so I misunderstood what you were initially saying.lol
I only agreed w/ the OP, that my garage gets warmer when one of my cars has just recently pulled in, and especially when my GTS or both are recently pulled in.
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Last edited by Fegelein; 10-05-2023 at 01:04 PM..
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      10-05-2023, 01:49 PM   #25
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So to clarify my statement about heat after 48 hours of not driving (more likely 40) - there was no heat felt with the hood closed, but since I was working on the front grill I detected (slight) radiating heat difference from room temperature so I opened the hood to check and sure enough the engine was pretty hot/warm. Not enough to burn but enough to make hand uncomfortable.

We also own a 2010 N/A V8 Volvo XC90 that doesn't have this heat retention issue..so I wasn't certain if this an anomaly or to be expected with BMW's high performance engine.

Last edited by starlights; 10-05-2023 at 01:57 PM..
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      10-05-2023, 04:24 PM   #26
eelnoraa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starlights View Post
So to clarify my statement about heat after 48 hours of not driving (more likely 40) - there was no heat felt with the hood closed, but since I was working on the front grill I detected (slight) radiating heat difference from room temperature so I opened the hood to check and sure enough the engine was pretty hot/warm. Not enough to burn but enough to make hand uncomfortable.

We also own a 2010 N/A V8 Volvo XC90 that doesn't have this heat retention issue..so I wasn't certain if this an anomaly or to be expected with BMW's high performance engine.
I think human hand can place hand on for indefinite long, just feel uncomfortable, this temperature is probably below 45C (113F). Typical home water header heat water to 50C (122F), you cannot touch this for more than a few seconds

Compare to N63 operational temp, typical thermostat open at 90C(194F) -100C (212F), so engine is a bit hotter, maybe 100C(212F) -110C (230F). 40 hour for engine to drop from 100C to 45C, still a very long time. I would be able to test my B58 this coming weekend and report back.
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      10-06-2023, 02:04 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by eelnoraa View Post
Yes evo8 is exactly what I had. And I have turbo timer for that car.

As for n63, I kind of don’t believe it is the heat cycle that cause the soft part to break down. It is the amount time at high temperature bake, and the how high the temperature is. If number of cycle is the issue, then inline6 turbo will have the same issue. For n54, I have two of this myself and work on quite a few. I have seen turbo goes bad as short as 70k, and as long as 150k not issue yet. Coincident or not, the short life turbo cars all happened to come from hot states, like Arizona. It makes me think that it is the inability to cool down when off shorten the life of the turbo.
Sorry I meant the high temperatures, not the heat cycles. Those will have the softener dissipate.

I had a N54 as well and worked on quite a few as well and am confident that it makes no sense that the turbos go bad due to hotter outside temperatures when they are watercooled, even in hot climates. We are talking about a few degrees difference here. If they are actually breaking more often in hotter climates in any statistically significant way I could imagine them having to be pushed harder (running at higher WGDC's) there due to the hotter/thinner air or sand being the issue.
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      10-10-2023, 07:20 PM   #28
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When tubos on vehicles first came out, most all of them used oil as the coolant. Stop the engine, on most all, you stop the oil flow. That is where an electric oil pump or an oil accumulator can really help. What oil is in the turbo's cooling channels can get so hot it carbonizes. That plays hell with bearings, and could clog up the lines. Coolant water cooled turbos have been around now for a long time, so that isn't as big a deal. With an oil-cooled unit, some cool down prior to shutting the engine off was often required for a long-lived turbo.
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      10-10-2023, 07:44 PM   #29
eelnoraa
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so here is one data point over this weekend. Since I have 2 kids in car, I didn't take time to take pictures of the reading. Here is in my written note

The route:
About 30 miles in distant, and drive time is 55min. I started in sport mode in "M/S" from home. So both local and highway drive. And because I want to prevent ICE from shutting down at traffic light, I was just in "M/S" instead of "D". RPM in M/S is higher than D by about 1 gears

Ambient: 22C-24F (71.6F-75.2F).

From start of ICE, where coolant gauge show "cold", to "cold" disappears - 2 minutes

From start of ICE, to where coolant gauge reach middle - 4.5 minutes. At this moment, coolant read about 80C, oil temp read 49C.

From start of ICE, to oil temp read 98CF/210F - 14 minutes

At the end of the 55 minutes drive in sport M/S, oil temp read ~105C/220F

We stopped for about 45 minutes, ambient was still at 20C/68F when we were ready to go. Oil temp at this moment read 71C/160F.

On my way home, I used electric. Thinking back, I should use ICE and see what is the oil temp on the next morning. Maybe I will try that next weekend
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