10-05-2023, 12:51 PM | #23 | |
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The 2nd part is also what I am trying to say. It is impossible keep engine hot to touch at 48hours without active heating, espeically the the oil pan isn't insulated
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10-05-2023, 12:56 PM | #24 | |
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I never even tried to touch my engine to check for heat. lol I also thought you meant there was a issue w/ my garage, so I misunderstood what you were initially saying.lol I only agreed w/ the OP, that my garage gets warmer when one of my cars has just recently pulled in, and especially when my GTS or both are recently pulled in.
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10-05-2023, 01:49 PM | #25 |
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So to clarify my statement about heat after 48 hours of not driving (more likely 40) - there was no heat felt with the hood closed, but since I was working on the front grill I detected (slight) radiating heat difference from room temperature so I opened the hood to check and sure enough the engine was pretty hot/warm. Not enough to burn but enough to make hand uncomfortable.
We also own a 2010 N/A V8 Volvo XC90 that doesn't have this heat retention issue..so I wasn't certain if this an anomaly or to be expected with BMW's high performance engine. Last edited by starlights; 10-05-2023 at 01:57 PM.. |
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10-05-2023, 04:24 PM | #26 | |
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Compare to N63 operational temp, typical thermostat open at 90C(194F) -100C (212F), so engine is a bit hotter, maybe 100C(212F) -110C (230F). 40 hour for engine to drop from 100C to 45C, still a very long time. I would be able to test my B58 this coming weekend and report back.
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10-06-2023, 02:04 AM | #27 | |
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I had a N54 as well and worked on quite a few as well and am confident that it makes no sense that the turbos go bad due to hotter outside temperatures when they are watercooled, even in hot climates. We are talking about a few degrees difference here. If they are actually breaking more often in hotter climates in any statistically significant way I could imagine them having to be pushed harder (running at higher WGDC's) there due to the hotter/thinner air or sand being the issue. |
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10-10-2023, 07:20 PM | #28 |
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When tubos on vehicles first came out, most all of them used oil as the coolant. Stop the engine, on most all, you stop the oil flow. That is where an electric oil pump or an oil accumulator can really help. What oil is in the turbo's cooling channels can get so hot it carbonizes. That plays hell with bearings, and could clog up the lines. Coolant water cooled turbos have been around now for a long time, so that isn't as big a deal. With an oil-cooled unit, some cool down prior to shutting the engine off was often required for a long-lived turbo.
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10-10-2023, 07:44 PM | #29 |
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so here is one data point over this weekend. Since I have 2 kids in car, I didn't take time to take pictures of the reading. Here is in my written note
The route: About 30 miles in distant, and drive time is 55min. I started in sport mode in "M/S" from home. So both local and highway drive. And because I want to prevent ICE from shutting down at traffic light, I was just in "M/S" instead of "D". RPM in M/S is higher than D by about 1 gears Ambient: 22C-24F (71.6F-75.2F). From start of ICE, where coolant gauge show "cold", to "cold" disappears - 2 minutes From start of ICE, to where coolant gauge reach middle - 4.5 minutes. At this moment, coolant read about 80C, oil temp read 49C. From start of ICE, to oil temp read 98CF/210F - 14 minutes At the end of the 55 minutes drive in sport M/S, oil temp read ~105C/220F We stopped for about 45 minutes, ambient was still at 20C/68F when we were ready to go. Oil temp at this moment read 71C/160F. On my way home, I used electric. Thinking back, I should use ICE and see what is the oil temp on the next morning. Maybe I will try that next weekend
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