[rtadams1]

Hi All,

I could really use some advice from fellow X5 owners, especially those with the M brakes. I've had my car for 3 years and nearing the end of the lease. I really like the vehicle except for the 4 BRAKE jobs I've had since new (27k miles). The rotors keep warping on the car even after babying them as much as possible.

Has anyone else had this problem? I've read a lot of threads about warped brakes (included one of mine) but it doesn't seems as wide spread as I would have expected. I'm not overly hard on the car and would like to keep it if possible. I'm even considering getting the V8 version but again, the same brakes!

Are there any after market options out there to replace the rotors/pads to minimize the warping? I'm all ears!

Thanks so much!

[slicky]

In most cases it is not rotors that are warped but pad buildup on the rotor that is causing the vibration. You are going to have a really hard time warping these massive rotors on the street. More like impossible.
This is a good read:
https://centricparts.com/getmedia/bd...c-8-2018_1.pdf

[weinerbarn]

What leads you to believe they are warped? Vibration, noise, steering shaking? I highly doubt the M sport brakes are warping unless driven in VERY hard conditions. They're rebranded Brembo brakes just like you'd find on high end sports cars. I'm worried some pad noise/squealing was misdiagnosed as warped rotors and you've unnecessarily replaced parts.

"The rotors keep warping on the car even after babying them as much as possible."

This is actually the opposite of what you need to do on M sport brakes. Couple of good hard stops and the squealing goes away. You can also just replace the pads with a less noisy and dusty compound.

[rtadams1]

To answer your question - my dealer service dept with pictures of the scoring and high/low spots on the rotors. Each time, the pics looked a little different, but all the same- the brakes usually start shuttering at around 2k miles after servicing.

IÂ’ve tried: bedding the rotors, cleaning with non-abrasive wheel cleaner, stopping hard, to using down shifts and coastingÂ…. Really, I just want an option to make the brakes work like they should. I donÂ’t drive far every day and itÂ’s probably the root cause of my issues. The brakes donÂ’t get hot enough to burn off the old debris.

If I buy low dust pads, would that help keep the brakes from feeling like something from the Flintstones?

Originally Posted by weinerbarn

What leads you to believe they are warped? Vibration, noise, steering shaking? I highly doubt the M sport brakes are warping unless driven in VERY hard conditions. They're rebranded Brembo brakes just like you'd find on high end sports cars. I'm worried some pad noise/squealing was misdiagnosed as warped rotors and you've unnecessarily replaced parts.

"The rotors keep warping on the car even after babying them as much as possible."

This is actually the opposite of what you need to do on M sport brakes. Couple of good hard stops and the squealing goes away. You can also just replace the pads with a less noisy and dusty compound.

[eelnoraa]

Originally Posted by rtadams1

To answer your question - my dealer service dept with pictures of the scoring and high/low spots on the rotors. Each time, the pics looked a little different, but all the same- the brakes usually start shuttering at around 2k miles after servicing.

IÂ’ve tried: bedding the rotors, cleaning with non-abrasive wheel cleaner, stopping hard, to using down shifts and coastingÂ…. Really, I just want an option to make the brakes work like they should. I donÂ’t drive far every day and itÂ’s probably the root cause of my issues. The brakes donÂ’t get hot enough to burn off the old debris.

If I buy low dust pads, would that help keep the brakes from feeling like something from the Flintstones?

After 2k miles, the observation of so called “high/low spots” on rotor is not unreasonable. If you run finger across the rotor surface, you will and should feel small amount unevenness. This is completely normal. Unless the grooves are very deep, they are not the reason or syndromes of warp rotor.

What does “shuttering” mean? Like vibration? Does it happen in all speed or only certain speed range? I would make a wild guess. If you need 4 brake jobs in 27k miles, the issue is not the brake pads oem rotors. You cannot be so unlucky to hit 4 set of defective brakes consecutively. It is most likely mis-diagnosis for a different issue and/or the replacement brake jobs were not done correctly.

As for oem pad vs low dust (ceremic?) pad, the low dust one basically trade brake feel for low dust by using harder compound. If having grooves is your concern, they will create worse grooves on rotor compare to oem pad.

[rtadams1]

Stopping from 45 mph and above it feels like shuttering: vibration in the steering wheel, the whole cabin shakes so much that passengers notice and comment on it as well. It starts out small (where it is now) and eventually will be so bad I use the brakes harder to minimize the shake as much as possible.

I really like this car and want to keep it or buy the M50i version. I've thought about going to a local independent import shop to get their opinion and maybe try out a different pad/rotor set up. Thus the reason for my questions.

I'm not sure if mine has a bad braking system, the dealer is incompetent (they are very large in our area) or after 30+ years of driving, I've learned how to destroy perfectly good brakes.

Originally Posted by eelnoraa

After 2k miles, the observation of so called “high/low spots” on rotor is not unreasonable. If you run finger across the rotor surface, you will and should feel small amount unevenness. This is completely normal. Unless the grooves are very deep, they are not the reason or syndromes of warp rotor.

What does “shuttering” mean? Like vibration? Does it happen in all speed or only certain speed range? I would make a wild guess. If you need 4 brake jobs in 27k miles, the issue is not the brake pads oem rotors. You cannot be so unlucky to hit 4 set of defective brakes consecutively. It is most likely mis-diagnosis for a different issue and/or the replacement brake jobs were not done correctly.

As for oem pad vs low dust (ceremic?) pad, the low dust one basically trade brake feel for low dust by using harder compound. If having grooves is your concern, they will create worse grooves on rotor compare to oem pad.

[-DB-]

I have had a high mileage X5M50i and the lower dust pads cut less into the rotors than the Stock brembos. I would be hard pressed to notice or feel a diff in the pads stopping distance.

RGS sport has a set but pricey, Powerstop makes a set but the shims can cause a click noise when shift from front to bake in the caliper. Not a concern but a noise, the remedy is use the shims from the stock brakes on the Power stops.

What I did was replace my rotors but used the PS on the Msport brakes and never had an issue. Replaced that car at 37k

[weinerbarn]

Originally Posted by rtadams1

Stopping from 45 mph and above it feels like shuttering: vibration in the steering wheel, the whole cabin shakes so much that passengers notice and comment on it as well. It starts out small (where it is now) and eventually will be so bad I use the brakes harder to minimize the shake as much as possible.

I really like this car and want to keep it or buy the M50i version. I've thought about going to a local independent import shop to get their opinion and maybe try out a different pad/rotor set up. Thus the reason for my questions.

I'm not sure if mine has a bad braking system, the dealer is incompetent (they are very large in our area) or after 30+ years of driving, I've learned how to destroy perfectly good brakes.

Probably would be best to go to another shop at this point. You have a couple of options ... get different pads (isweep IS1500 or similar) and/or have the rotors burnished to remove the uneven deposits.

Out of curiosity can you share your vehicle exterior maintenance habits? How often do you wash and what method?
Do you use wheel cleaner and what kind (such as an iron remover like Adams Wheel cleaner)?
Do you use tire dressings? What kind and how do you apply (spray on or pad applied)?

Any of these things can affect the braking performance ... ie through contamination of the pads or not adequately cleaning out the brake dust buildup.

[MaKSiNG]

Definitely sounds odd.

In your place I would get an Indy to strip the calipers down to determine if the individual pots are applying force equally across the pad.

What do the pads look like when you are replacing the discs / rotors?

What are the M Sport brakes? 6 pot front and 4 pot rear?

[rtadams1]

Quick rundown of my cleaning routine:
I don’t wash my car nearly as much as I should, probably every 2 months? Rims and paint (not brakes, of course) are all ceramic coated. My usual routine includes cleaning brakes and rims with Meguiars wheel cleaner (non-corrosive) and lightly (green nozzle) pressure wash everything off. It’s amazing how much dust/dirt comes off. If I don’t have time, I run it through the local touchless car wash. Also, I use Back to Black on the tires to make them shine.

My lease is up and it looks like I’m going to turn in my X5. I just don’t trust this particular set of brakes but I like these SUV’s too much to give up. My dealer is working out a favorable trade for a new ‘23 X5 M50i. Yes, with the M-sport brake set up.

Thanks for the aftermarket suggestions. I need more information on which brake pads to use. It seems like a good idea to switch out the brake pads pretty quickly on the new ride.

Originally Posted by weinerbarn

Probably would be best to go to another shop at this point. You have a couple of options ... get different pads (isweep IS1500 or similar) and/or have the rotors burnished to remove the uneven deposits.

Out of curiosity can you share your vehicle exterior maintenance habits? How often do you wash and what method?
Do you use wheel cleaner and what kind (such as an iron remover like Adams Wheel cleaner)?
Do you use tire dressings? What kind and how do you apply (spray on or pad applied)?

Any of these things can affect the braking performance ... ie through contamination of the pads or not adequately cleaning out the brake dust buildup.

[TurtleBoy]

Originally Posted by rtadams1

Thanks for the aftermarket suggestions. I need more information on which brake pads to use. It seems like a good idea to switch out the brake pads pretty quickly on the new ride.

Getting a new one sounds like the best course of action for you. Why would you think the pads need to be switched out on the new one?

[-Vanguard-]

Are you tracking your car a lot?

There is no way you needed 4 brake jobs in 27K miles.

Those brakes should last 27K miles from factory with normal driving.

I have an X6M with over 20K miles since new and I still have 8mm on my brakes as of my last oil chance last month.

Id demand new calipers, they must be busted and and not apply even pressure.

[weinerbarn]

Originally Posted by rtadams1

Quick rundown of my cleaning routine:
I donÂ’t wash my car nearly as much as I should, probably every 2 months? Rims and paint (not brakes, of course) are all ceramic coated. My usual routine includes cleaning brakes and rims with Meguiars wheel cleaner (non-corrosive) and lightly (green nozzle) pressure wash everything off. ItÂ’s amazing how much dust/dirt comes off. If I donÂ’t have time, I run it through the local touchless car wash. Also, I use Back to Black on the tires to make them shine.

My lease is up and it looks like I’m going to turn in my X5. I just don’t trust this particular set of brakes but I like these SUV’s too much to give up. My dealer is working out a favorable trade for a new ‘23 X5 M50i. Yes, with the M-sport brake set up.

Thanks for the aftermarket suggestions. I need more information on which brake pads to use. It seems like a good idea to switch out the brake pads pretty quickly on the new ride.

This all seems totally normal. The only other thing I can think of is a problem with ABS or Master Cylinder not allowing the brakes to fully retract. If it were a bad caliper or hardware, you’d think only one side would be wearing abnormally and that would have been a huge clue the few times they replaced pads and rotors. It sucks you’re having this experience because they’re usually fantastic brakes … other than enemy of clean wheels.

[jreevesusc]

What size wheels and tires are you running? Are they OEM or aftermarket?

I had a 2003 Acura TL that I put type S rims on. Shifting from what came on the car at the factory to the type S rims caused me to go through a couple sets of rotors in the same way you’re describing.

[goobies818]

31,000 miles on my m50i and no issues to report. Little brake squeal once in a blue moon…But that’s likey due to dust buildup.

Still on my original equipment…50/50 Highway/local driving

[eelnoraa]

OP’s issue may not be brake related at all. I cannot think of any brake a system failure that can cost rotor warp in all 4 corners. It it is caliber issue, it is
Not possible to have 4 defected calibers. If the issue is caused by more central control unit, say brake don’t get release properly, then mpg and pad wear will reflect. 4 times in 27k, better look somewhere else because you know 5th time is coming. People say, insanity is keep doing the same thing and hope for a different outcome. Definitely try a different dealers next time.

[rtadams1]

These replies are encouraging. Thanks everyone, I really appreciate it. I traded in my 2020 today for a Dravit Grey M50i. Damn, this is a pretty SUV. Can't wait to do my usual mods in the weeks to come.

I often thought there was something wrong with the braking control unit itself as I noticed very jerky stops. My dealer couldn't find anything wrong. Also, on one of the replacements, the pads actually left clamp marks on the rotors as if the car sat for months (it didn't). I'm looking forward to many years of fun ownership without the same headaches.

Happy New Year!

[TurtleBoy]

^ Congratulations, look great. Good luck, enjoy and be safe.

[MaKSiNG]

That looks amazing!
Congrats.

Other than your previous brake problem, I look forward to a comparison review soon.

[eelnoraa]

Wow. Great looking car. Congrats.

[insomnia8888]

Congrats on the new one! Did your issues continue on the new X5?

I’m asking because I feel like I’m in the same boat with you.

I have a 2018 X5M for about 4 years by now, and I have done maybe 5 brake replacements due to warping. I bought the car at 20k miles and I have 127k now. I daily this suv, and I drive a lot. It was certified by BMW, and I purchased 2 more years of warranty at the time purchase, so I have unlimited miles warranty until April 2025. Regardless of the warranty, I was able to get BMW to replace brakes 3 times, and I ended up paying for 2 of the replacements.
Each replacement was due to warped rotors. All of this applies to front rotors and pads. No problems on the rears, and they have been replaced regularly with the maintenance plan from BMW.

My experience with the front brake rotor warping happens at specific events. Usually when doing a heavy pull on the high way, after getting up to high speeds of 130-140 mph, as traffic approaching braking hard, then the rotors warped. (Yes, I should not be driving such speeds on highway, but it happens at times. And I recommend everyone not to do so).
It blows my mind that M rotors warp at one time event. Yes it is a heavy SUV, but I feel like these brakes should perform without a problem at even track driving conditions with lots of abuse as this vehicle being a X5M. Maybe I’m wrong ??

I brought this up to my dealer multiple times, and even reached out to BMW NA, but I ended up not getting a resolution. I got tired of fighting and paid for them to replace the brakes.

Now, I absolutely love the vehicle and I would like to replace it with the newer one, but I just don’t want to have the same issues with the brakes.

Let me know what you all think ?

Thank you.

[BlkGS]

I think you drive like an idiot.

Barring the question of those speeds, if you're doing a hard stop from triple digit speeds on cold brakes, you're gonna cause issues. Brakes are meant to work at temperature, not at ambient for insanely hard stops like that. Frankly, it's mind boggling that BMW would even cover that, I'd have told you to pound sand and learn to drove, because your ineptitude wouldn't be covered under warranty.

The.times when it would be conceivable.you'd be stopping from speeds like that on track, you'd have warm brakes. That's why they have warm up laps, so you can get all your systems up to temperature before you go all out and break stuff.

In short, learn to drive before you get someone killed with your toxic mix of money, who, and cluelessness.