[dinoareyes]

Hope everyone is well. I can open the tailgate without any problem but when you press close, there’s a sound but it doesn’t close. I was able to locate or fix the problem temporarily by twisting the shock struts. Please click the link below to see the short video

https://youtube.com/shorts/CIn0dL7vVRM?feature=share

If I twist it, it will close and if I open it again, same problem. I have to twist it again

Have you encountered this problem before?

Thank you for your time, gentlemen.

[fate9834]

Probably need to visit a shop to check the connector/drive unit? Had mine replaced (albeit for the lower tailgate) when it failed to close on a few occasions.

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by dinoareyes

Hope everyone is well. I can open the tailgate without any problem but when you press close, there’s a sound but it doesn’t close. I was able to locate or fix the problem temporarily by twisting the shock struts. Please click the link below to see the short video

https://youtube.com/shorts/CIn0dL7vVRM?feature=share

If I twist it, it will close and if I open it again, same problem. I have to twist it again

Have you encountered this problem before?

Thank you for your time, gentlemen.

Instead of twisting the struts, once the hatch has fully opened and you've verified once again that it won't close by virtue of the button, try manually pushing the hatch further open about an inch or so and then push the button and let us know what it does. In other words you are manually changing the position of the stored memory location.

If that works, or maybe even if it doesn't, go into iDrive and change the height that the hatch opens to by about an inch or so and see if then it reliably works.

[dinoareyes]

Thank you so much. I'll do that. I have a local mechanic that I've used before. Would you recommend that I take it there or to the dealership? I'm asking because I don't have warranty anymore

[dinoareyes]

Originally Posted by Marty in NY

Instead of twisting the struts, once the hatch has fully opened and you've verified once again that it won't close by virtue of the button, try manually pushing the hatch further open about an inch or so and then push the button and let us know what it does. In other words you are manually changing the position of the stored memory location.

If that works, or maybe even if it doesn't, go into iDrive and change the height that the hatch opens to by about an inch or so and see if then it reliably works.

I'll do that. Thank you so much

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by dinoareyes

Thank you so much. I'll do that. I have a local mechanic that I've used before. Would you recommend that I take it there or to the dealership? I'm asking because I don't have warranty anymore

well, I'd hold off taking it anywhere till some diagnostic testing is done. You might find a simple reset is all that's needed. In the meantime you have a work around with the twisting of the strut that seems to work.

[dinoareyes]

Originally Posted by Marty in NY

well, I'd hold off taking it anywhere till some diagnostic testing is done. You might find a simple reset is all that's needed. In the meantime you have a work around with the twisting of the strut that seems to work.

That makes sense. Thanks for the tip

[dinoareyes]

Originally Posted by Marty in NY

Instead of twisting the struts, once the hatch has fully opened and you've verified once again that it won't close by virtue of the button, try manually pushing the hatch further open about an inch or so and then push the button and let us know what it does. In other words you are manually changing the position of the stored memory location.

If that works, or maybe even if it doesn't, go into iDrive and change the height that the hatch opens to by about an inch or so and see if then it reliably works.

I did what you said but still the same thing. There’s 5 heights levels in iDrive and if you select the lowest level, it will close properly. If you select the 2nd and 3rd level, it won’t close but it will if you twist the struts. The 4th level does the same thing but you have to twist it twice and it’ll close. With the highest level, the twist trick didn’twork, however, I tried to push the black thing (see attached, red circle) with a little bit of force and it closed

Any thoughts?

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by dinoareyes

I did what you said but still the same thing. There’s 5 heights levels in iDrive and if you select the lowest level, it will close properly. If you select the 2nd and 3rd level, it won’t close but it will if you twist the struts. The 4th level does the same thing but you have to twist it twice and it’ll close. With the highest level, the twist trick didn’twork, however, I tried to push the black thing (see attached, red circle) with a little bit of force and it closed

Any thoughts?

Thanks for the feedback on the tests. The pic was blurry so it was hard to tell if that area looks ok or not. However, if you inspect both the left and right strut areas, do you see any differences. When you grab the left vs the right bits, can you feel any differences....like one is tight, the other is loose or whatever. I'm happy to post pix of what mine look like if you need something to reference. If you can check these areas out and explain what you find, I'll check mine and we can compare any differences. Mine is a '21 but should be identical to yours.

Don't know if you are mechanically inclined or not but if you end up needing a repair, go to your indy, not the dealer for this sort of issue.

[dinoareyes]

Originally Posted by Marty in NY

Thanks for the feedback on the tests. The pic was blurry so it was hard to tell if that area looks ok or not. However, if you inspect both the left and right strut areas, do you see any differences. When you grab the left vs the right bits, can you feel any differences....like one is tight, the other is loose or whatever. I'm happy to post pix of what mine look like if you need something to reference. If you can check these areas out and explain what you find, I'll check mine and we can compare any differences. Mine is a '21 but should be identical to yours.

Don't know if you are mechanically inclined or not but if you end up needing a repair, go to your indy, not the dealer for this sort of issue.

I’m not mechanically inclined The left and right looks the same. See attached for a more clear picture of the bit. Thank you

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by dinoareyes

I’m not mechanically inclined The left and right looks the same. See attached for a more clear picture of the bit. Thank you

Great pic, thanks! I just watched your video again after looking at your last pic. Is it only the right strut that when twisted allows the hatch to close or could you do the same with the left strut, leaving the right one untouched?

[dinoareyes]

Originally Posted by Marty in NY

Great pic, thanks! I just watched your video again after looking at your last pic. Is it only the right strut that when twisted allows the hatch to close or could you do the same with the left strut, leaving the right one untouched?

Correct. Twisting the right does the trick. I tried the left but to no avail

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by dinoareyes

Correct. Twisting the right does the trick. I tried the left but to no avail

At this point my guess is the right strut has failed to properly report its programmed/set position to the computer so from a safety standpoint, the computer won't let it move because it doesn't know where the hatch is. When you manually twist it, it moves just enough to hit its set point and satisfies the computer.

I don't know if the struts can be taken apart to see what's wrong, if it were me, I'd try, if not I think you'll need to have it replaced. It's part # 5 in the attached drawing. New ones are a bit pricey but they are not simple air shocks, they are motorized struts. Searching via the part number should result in new and used ones. If you replace it, you will need to perform the hatch reset procedure in the user manual.

[dinoareyes]

Originally Posted by Marty in NY

At this point my guess is the right strut has failed to properly report its programmed/set position to the computer so from a safety standpoint, the computer won't let it move because it doesn't know where the hatch is. When you manually twist it, it moves just enough to hit its set point and satisfies the computer.

I don't know if the struts can be taken apart to see what's wrong, if it were me, I'd try, if not I think you'll need to have it replaced. It's part # 5 in the attached drawing. New ones are a bit pricey but they are not simple air shocks, they are motorized struts. Searching via the part number should result in new and used ones. If you replace it, you will need to perform the hatch reset procedure in the user manual.

You’re the best. Thank you for your expertise and time

Would you still recommend going to an indy than a dealership with this kind of problem?

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by dinoareyes

You’re the best. Thank you for your expertise and time

Would you still recommend going to an indy than a dealership with this kind of problem?

Absolutely ✔️

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by dinoareyes

You’re the best. Thank you for your expertise and time

Would you still recommend going to an indy than a dealership with this kind of problem?

Just to give you a rough idea of how to replace one of these, in case you decide to tackle it yourself or even if you don't, here's a video of a guy replacing one on an older X5. I can imagine the process is about the same for your 2019. If you take it to your indy, you'll have a basis for discussion on their pricing. It would probably take them an hour tops.

[TurtleBoy]

Here is the procedure for the G05.

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by TurtleBoy

Here is the procedure for the G05.

Wow, that looks much easier than on the old X5's. No panel removals, no fishing wires, etc. Thanks for posting. Is there a calibration procedure via iDrive? or by holding one of the opening buttons for "x" seconds or?

[TurtleBoy]

Originally Posted by Marty in NY

Wow, that looks much easier than on the old X5's. No panel removals, no fishing wires, etc. Thanks for posting. Is there a calibration procedure via iDrive? or by holding one of the opening buttons for "x" seconds or?

It talks about doing it in the diagnosis system but do not know if there is an iDrive equivalent.

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by TurtleBoy

It talks about doing it in the diagnosis system but do not know if there is an iDrive equivalent.

I was hoping it was as simple as initializing windows and sunroofs. One of these motorized struts failed on my friends Ford Flex, I helped him replace it and the initialization was just like a window or sunroof.

dinoareyes, if you've read the procedure Turtleboy posted, do you think you'd be willing to replace it yourself? I'm sure people on this forum would virtually help you.

Also, because the replacement is so simple, as an option, you could swap the left and right struts and see if the symptom swaps too...just to confirm that the strut is defective. If you do it yourself, as the video of the old X5 pointed out, the hatch is heavy so you need to support it in its fully open position so it doesn't fall/slam closed on itself or you

[dinoareyes]

I’ll go with your first advice, to take it to an indy I’ll let you know what he says. If he says the struts needs to be replaced and charges me $300 or more for labor, I may consider doing it myself. Thank you

[TurtleBoy]

Originally Posted by dinoareyes

I’ll go with your first advice, to take it to an indy I’ll let you know what he says. If he says the struts needs to be replaced and charges me $300 or more for labor, I may consider doing it myself. Thank you

I would also try your dealer, sometimes there is little difference in cost between a good independent and the dealer.