[vitipr]

The is1500 pads were installed today in the LCI. The rim was still clean after 50+ miles🤣. The rims probably lasted less than 25 miles clean with the owm pads Initial bite might be slightly less but its very unnoticeable. For now everything is working smoothly!

[vitipr]

Wheels after 60+ miles driving. Is1500 pads definitely reduce dust by more than 65-75% at least.

[Gfit]

May get these although it’s weird that my X3M and my previous 22 M3 seem to be twice as bad as the X5M. Those 2 got dirty after one stop.

[M_Comp_Ray]

I have a 2020 X5M Competition with the original pads and ~34,500 miles on the vehicle and have a couple questions.

1) I was just in the dealership for oil/plugs and they said brakes were still fine and marked them all 5+ mm.

With that amount of wear/miles, should I expect to do new rotors and sensors if I replace the pads early or do you think I could get away with another pair of shoes with these original rotors/sensors?

2) I live in S. Florida so is there any logical reason to get the IS2000's over the IS1500's? Least brake dust/eliminating squeal and at least as good as OEM braking are my priorities.


Thanks in advance!

Front Pads:


Rear Pads:

[Alan l.]

I have the IS2000 on mine and there is still a good amount of dust from these. I would say 50% less than stock but when stock is insane amount of dust even with the IS2000 your wheels will start to get darker after driving for 1-2 hours.

Brake feel is close to stock. Id say 90% there but after driving on these for a week I couldn't tell the difference anymore.

Biggest benefit for me was my stock pads squealed like a old school bus at every stop and these are dead silent from day 1. Its been about 3-4 months now and they are still silent.

Part of me wants to try the IS1500 because its a pain always cleaning my HRE's but at the same time I don't want to give up anymore brake feel.

Whats more important to you is the question. Braking feel/performance or Clean wheels.

Alan

[M_Comp_Ray]

Originally Posted by Alan l.

I have the IS2000 on mine and there is still a good amount of dust from these. I would say 50% less than stock but when stock is insane amount of dust even with the IS2000 your wheels will start to get darker after driving for 1-2 hours.

Brake feel is close to stock. Id say 90% there but after driving on these for a week I couldn't tell the difference anymore.

Biggest benefit for me was my stock pads squealed like a old school bus at every stop and these are dead silent from day 1. Its been about 3-4 months now and they are still silent.

Part of me wants to try the IS1500 because its a pain always cleaning my HRE's but at the same time I don't want to give up anymore brake feel.

Whats more important to you is the question. Braking feel/performance or Clean wheels.

Alan

Thanks, Alan! I appreciate your perspective from your own experience!

[Djvolume]

r33_RGSport Ben pm me info please

[r33_RGSport]

Originally Posted by M_Comp_Ray

I have a 2020 X5M Competition with the original pads and ~34,500 miles on the vehicle and have a couple questions.

1) I was just in the dealership for oil/plugs and they said brakes were still fine and marked them all 5+ mm.

With that amount of wear/miles, should I expect to do new rotors and sensors if I replace the pads early or do you think I could get away with another pair of shoes with these original rotors/sensors?

2) I live in S. Florida so is there any logical reason to get the IS2000's over the IS1500's? Least brake dust/eliminating squeal and at least as good as OEM braking are my priorities.


Thanks in advance!

Front Pads:Attachment 3287202


Rear Pads:Attachment 3287201

1. It is best to change new rotor since your car have 34k miles on it. From what I can see in the picture, seems like your rotor is about 3/4 of its life. You will need to have visual inspection for better understanding the condition.

2. IS1500 would be sufficient, but my personal favorite is IS2000.

Originally Posted by Djvolume

r33_RGSport Ben pm me info please

Which info that you need?

[M_Comp_Ray]

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

1. It is best to change new rotor since your car have 34k miles on it. From what I can see in the picture, seems like your rotor is about 3/4 of its life. You will need to have visual inspection for better understanding the condition.

2. IS1500 would be sufficient, but my personal favorite is IS2000.

Much appreciated!

[Djvolume]

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

Which info that you need?

Pricing and such

[r33_RGSport]

Originally Posted by Djvolume

Pricing and such

PM'ed.

[S68 X5MC]

I have a few questions before I swap my F&R pads out tomorrow.

- 100% I'll be fine without any coding on the rear pad swap? I have 1400 miles on mine so it should be like the front and slide right on with the new?
- Wheel lug torque?
- Front caliper torque?
- Rear caliper torque?

[crazyinp]

Originally Posted by S68 X5MC

I have a few questions before I swap my F&R pads out tomorrow.

- 100% I'll be fine without any coding on the rear pad swap? I have 1400 miles on mine so it should be like the front and slide right on with the new?
As I mentioned , I did use ISTA to put the rear in service mode.
- Wheel lug torque?
140 Nm
- Front caliper torque?
110 Nm
- Rear caliper torque?
I couldn't find spec in TIS for this one, so just tight it. Maybe someone has.

[DCC]

Originally Posted by S68 X5MC

I have a few questions before I swap my F&R pads out tomorrow.

- 100% I'll be fine without any coding on the rear pad swap? I have 1400 miles on mine so it should be like the front and slide right on with the new?
- Wheel lug torque?
- Front caliper torque?
- Rear caliper torque?

The rear brakes will need to be put into 'service mode' so you can retract the pistons a little to accommodate the new pads.
The fronts you can just retract the pistons via compression and slot in the new pads.

[S68 X5MC]

Originally Posted by DCC

The rear brakes will need to be put into 'service mode' so you can retract the pistons a little to accommodate the new pads.
The fronts you can just retract the pistons via compression and slot in the new pads.

I thought I've heard people do it without retracting the rear piston since the stock pads are new. That's what I'm really trying to verify so I can do this tomorrow.

I've also seen videos how you remove the motor and use a torx to back the pistons, but I'm not sure about a code. I don't have anything to clear codes and not wanting to drive to dealer. I'm used to doing my own work on Audi's and now learning BMW's.

That being said. What do I need to order to clear codes and do anything with this vehicle electric wise?

[DCC]

Originally Posted by S68 X5MC

I thought I've heard people do it without retracting the rear piston since the stock pads are new. That's what I'm really trying to verify so I can do this tomorrow.

I've also seen videos how you remove the motor and use a torx to back the pistons, but I'm not sure about a code. I don't have anything to clear codes and not wanting to drive to dealer. I'm used to doing my own work on Audi's and now learning BMW's.

That being said. What do I need to order to clear codes and do anything with this vehicle electric wise?

With 1400 miles, I am quite sure the new pads won't slide in in the rear. So you need to retract the pistons a little, and the only way to do that is to set the rear brakes in service mode or the pistons cannot be pushed in.


If you try to do this right after you drove the new car home from the dealer, then it's probably a simple swap.


You might get lucky and be able to do it with 1400 miles on the car. try it and report back.

[S68 X5MC]

Check it out, I'm still looking for the video but here's a post on doing it manually like I thought. I'll order the Bluetooth OBD and getting Bimmerlink though, it'll help me in the long run.

https://g05.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...6&postcount=35

[crazyinp]

Originally Posted by S68 X5MC

Check it out, I'm still looking for the video but here's a post on doing it manually like I thought. I'll order the Bluetooth OBD and getting Bimmerlink though, it'll help me in the long run.

https://g05.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...6&postcount=35

Btw bimmmerlink didn’t work for me. It couldn’t put the car in service mode. Kept coming with an error. I gave up easy and used ista. Btw I used quick grip to retract the rear a bit to fit my new pads. I had 3K miles on the car when I did.

[S68 X5MC]

Well, I just changed my pads out F&R. I knew I'd be fine with 1400 miles because all four corners slid right on without messing with any piston. No codes or coding needed to do something like this. This post is for those who follow after me doing the same thing.

EBC vs Stock

[DCC]

Glad to know you managed to swap them with 1400 miles on the car.

Let us know how you like the red stuff after a few weeks

[PacShakur]

Originally Posted by DCC

With 1400 miles, I am quite sure the new pads won't slide in in the rear. So you need to retract the pistons a little, and the only way to do that is to set the rear brakes in service mode or the pistons cannot be pushed in.


If you try to do this right after you drove the new car home from the dealer, then it's probably a simple swap.


You might get lucky and be able to do it with 1400 miles on the car. try it and report back.

Not necessarily true. I swapped my stock pads for the ISWEEP in my garage when my truck had 4800 miles on it. Was able to slide the new pads in the front and rear without putting the rear brakes in service mode. Depends I guess how hard you are on the brakes. Mileage will vary.