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      07-12-2013, 08:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwarg View Post
Ok thanks guys. I did see Terry do some tests with the BMS dual cone intake system and it performs well. I realize that the dual cone intake system (not true cold air intake) would improve air flow and sound over the stock intake.

Maybe the better question is this: Would the BMS dual cone intake deliver hotter air than the stock intake or are they both delivering similarly hot air? In other words, IAT is same for both stock and BMS dual cone intake.
Upgrade your FMIC.
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      07-12-2013, 09:07 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken1137
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwarg View Post
Ok thanks guys. I did see Terry do some tests with the BMS dual cone intake system and it performs well. I realize that the dual cone intake system (not true cold air intake) would improve air flow and sound over the stock intake.

Maybe the better question is this: Would the BMS dual cone intake deliver hotter air than the stock intake or are they both delivering similarly hot air? In other words, IAT is same for both stock and BMS dual cone intake.
Upgrade your FMIC.
Absolutely positively!
Ken nailed it on the head- critical.
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      07-12-2013, 09:31 PM   #25
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      07-12-2013, 10:42 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Dark_Knight_335 View Post
Absolutely positively!
Ken nailed it on the head- critical.
But my 2008 BMW 335i sport already comes with an intercooler...
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      07-12-2013, 11:21 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by bmwarg View Post
But my 2008 BMW 335i sport already comes with an intercooler...
All 335i's come with a factory intercooler. He's saying purchase an upgraded intercooler.

Btw the stock intake is technically a cold air intake as it draws air from outside the engine compartment.
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      07-12-2013, 11:43 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwarg View Post
Are there now any alternatives to the Dinan cold air intake system? It is very expensive! I know that BMS, AfE have dual cone air intakes, but they are not cold air intake systems because they breath the hot air that accumulates under the hood. I would prefer a true cold air intake system that is as good quality as the Dinan, but not so expensive because of warranty/insurance.

FYI - the Dinan is currently 20% off.
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      07-13-2013, 02:17 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwarg
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Originally Posted by Dark_Knight_335 View Post
Absolutely positively!
Ken nailed it on the head- critical.
But my 2008 BMW 335i sport already comes with an intercooler...
Hmmm. Read up on benefits of different mods And see what will best benefit you.
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      07-13-2013, 02:23 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwarg View Post
But my 2008 BMW 335i sport already comes with an intercooler...

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      07-13-2013, 02:27 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark_Knight_335 View Post
I have a nearly complete Dinan set up, But I went with BMS for my intake- no regrets, a few more HP and torque in WOT, and sounds amazing
Plus your car makes awesome breathing/whooshing/growling sounds! Your car is A L I V E
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      07-13-2013, 02:34 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwarg View Post
But my 2008 BMW 335i sport already comes with an intercooler...
OP, all you need is the following and you will understand:
1) Get a tune (JB4/Open Table Flash/Etc...)
2) Get an aftermarket FMIC + a BMS OCC
3) Get an aftermarket DP (or catless downpipe if you off road)
4) Get supporting mods:
*a) DCI
*b) Aftermarket metal Chargepipe
*c) Aftermarket BOV
*d) Meth kit (Make sure your tune supports this)
5) A little e85 mixed in with your premium octane (make sure your tune supports this).

* Each one will net you gains and you will be at a reliable 400hp at the end of it all. Let your aftermarket Intercooler do it's job and the DCI will show it's strength, but did you notice where it is in my line up??
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      07-13-2013, 10:26 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ek99civic View Post
All 335i's come with a factory intercooler. He's saying purchase an upgraded intercooler. .
Agree they come with a FMIC stock.
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      07-13-2013, 10:33 AM   #34
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It is well known that our stock intercoolers are not capable of providing the cooling necessary for optimal engine life, HP, and performance when more aggressive tunes are introduced into the mix.

The stark reality is reduced engine life and overall potential engine component and engine damage and overheating, and loss of power in many cases. Upgrade that intercooler if you plan on tuning the shit out of your cars folks.
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      07-13-2013, 10:51 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moorlander View Post
FYI - the Dinan is currently 20% off.
That's as good of a deal as you're going to find for a new 'best cold air intake.'
OP: threads involving Dinan products always get derailed in this forum. It is the best engineered cold air intake out there for the N54. I have one on my car and will tell you honestly it is a waste of money if you don't have a tune. I also agree with those that recommend a fmic prior to intake. I actually installed a fmic prior to a tune as the oe fmic heat soaks quickly raising iat's thereby causing the dme to retard timing.
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      07-13-2013, 11:09 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvc 22349a
Quote:
Originally Posted by moorlander View Post
FYI - the Dinan is currently 20% off.
That's as good of a deal as you're going to find for a new 'best cold air intake.'
OP: threads involving Dinan products always get derailed in this forum. It is the best engineered cold air intake out there for the N54. I have one on my car and will tell you honestly it is a waste of money if you don't have a tune. I also agree with those that recommend a fmic prior to intake. I actually installed a fmic prior to a tune as the oe fmic heat soaks quickly raising iat's thereby causing the dme to retard timing.
Yeah but just on intakes and a few other crap stuff not available for N55 I want 20 percent off all the stuff man- I want to get my LSD yo!!
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      07-13-2013, 11:43 AM   #37
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I see your points about the intercooler upgrade. Granted I live in SF where it is almost always 50s to 70s. Still need one? Anyway, what is a great and affordable intercooler upgrade for reference so I can start my research. Thanks!

Last edited by bmwarg; 07-13-2013 at 11:50 AM..
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      07-13-2013, 11:50 AM   #38
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For the BMS Oil Catch Can... Is this just marketing? My car already had 38,000 miles so how would I get rid of the intake gunk that has already accumulated?



Quote:
Originally Posted by fazman View Post
OP, all you need is the following and you will understand:
1) Get a tune (JB4/Open Table Flash/Etc...)
2) Get an aftermarket FMIC + a BMS OCC
3) Get an aftermarket DP (or catless downpipe if you off road)
4) Get supporting mods:
*a) DCI
*b) Aftermarket metal Chargepipe
*c) Aftermarket BOV
*d) Meth kit (Make sure your tune supports this)
5) A little e85 mixed in with your premium octane (make sure your tune supports this).

* Each one will net you gains and you will be at a reliable 400hp at the end of it all. Let your aftermarket Intercooler do it's job and the DCI will show it's strength, but did you notice where it is in my line up??
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      07-14-2013, 10:07 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwarg View Post
For the BMS Oil Catch Can... Is this just marketing? My car already had 38,000 miles so how would I get rid of the intake gunk that has already accumulated?
That's a good question, I've grown up with turbo cars for about 20 years... I've learned in that time we should always be kind to our turbos by letting the car idle for about a minute before powering off the motor AND we should always get an OCC (Oil Catch Can) because without it... the car does dump oil into the intake plumbing. The proof on the N54 was when I upgraded from stock FMIC to ER FMIC, my stock intercooler and all the charge pipe plumbing was coated in oil. How to get rid of it... well first step is to stop the source of oil from adding to what is in the system already (Get an OCC)

Next, if your planning to try and clean the stock FMIC or Charge pipe... to get those off you might as well just replace them with after market upgraded parts. Because its work to get it off, you might as well just replace rather than re-use. However, let's say you buy a used FMIC upgrade from someone has lots of oil in it... I'm sure someone on this forum has a DIY for correctly de-greaseing the parts. The more simple alternative would be to just let it slowly blow it's way out of the system on it's own??

I wouldn't want you to do more work than benefit... so I wouldn't attempt to clean what is already in the pipes... just keep it from dumping new oil into it.

A nice mod you can do with the charge pipe is to have the Blow-off Valves (BOV) Vent To Atmosphere (VTA), these cars don't require that the BOV air to be re-circulated back into the system as metered air (Like my eclipse GSX did). So you can gain a nice Whhhoooooossssssssssssh sound when you let off the gas if you VTA
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      07-14-2013, 10:12 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark_Knight_335 View Post
It is well known that our stock intercoolers are not capable of providing the cooling necessary for optimal engine life, HP, and performance when more aggressive tunes are introduced into the mix.

The stark reality is reduced engine life and overall potential engine component and engine damage and overheating, and loss of power in many cases. Upgrade that intercooler if you plan on tuning the shit out of your cars folks.
Well said! it's the best thing you can do for any turbo car to upgrade all the plumbing (even if you were to keep the car on a stock tune... the car would benefit from an upgraded FMIC and OCC).
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      07-14-2013, 10:27 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwarg View Post
I see your points about the intercooler upgrade. Granted I live in SF where it is almost always 50s to 70s. Still need one? Anyway, what is a great and affordable intercooler upgrade for reference so I can start my research. Thanks!
It's not about where you live (I grew up in SoCal all my life until the last couple of years). But as the motor pushes that warm/hot air into the intercooler to get cold before forcing it into the motor... the stock intercooler heats up a lot! It takes time for that intercooler to get cold again even if you are just rolling on the freeway without accelerating afterwards. The other parts of the puzzle are the efficiency of the intercooler to cool the air that passes thru it. So basically the first pull you do on your stock intercooler will be your best run... after that your intercooler is "heat soaked" and all subsequent pulls will have warmer air going thru the system = less power.

No stock intercooler will ever do a good job, they build these cars so you have to upgrade those parts (That's why turbo/super charger cars are "tuner" cars). Also OCC are not really emissions legal, but no one checks for them because its not a performance mod (So no one will care that you have it, plus no one will ever see it unless they take apart the shelf below the HVAC filter EVEN THEN they have to know what to look for).

The reason we want cold air is because you can pack more volume of oxygen into colder air as opposed to warmer air which takes up more space. More Air + More (correctly matched) fuel + More (correctly matched) Spark = More power. That is why Nitrous and other additives help, they make the air colder so you can pack more air volume in per combustion cycle = Moar Power

This lesson has come courtesy of lessons learned via Mike over at Road/Race Engineering in Santa Fe Springs, Ca from wayyyyyy back in the day when they were a small shop.

- Faz
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      07-15-2013, 12:01 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fazman View Post
That's a good question, I've grown up with turbo cars for about 20 years... I've learned in that time we should always be kind to our turbos by letting the car idle for about a minute before powering off the motor AND we should always get an OCC (Oil Catch Can) because without it... the car does dump oil into the intake plumbing. The proof on the N54 was when I upgraded from stock FMIC to ER FMIC, my stock intercooler and all the charge pipe plumbing was coated in oil. How to get rid of it... well first step is to stop the source of oil from adding to what is in the system already (Get an OCC)

Next, if your planning to try and clean the stock FMIC or Charge pipe... to get those off you might as well just replace them with after market upgraded parts. Because its work to get it off, you might as well just replace rather than re-use. However, let's say you buy a used FMIC upgrade from someone has lots of oil in it... I'm sure someone on this forum has a DIY for correctly de-greaseing the parts. The more simple alternative would be to just let it slowly blow it's way out of the system on it's own??

I wouldn't want you to do more work than benefit... so I wouldn't attempt to clean what is already in the pipes... just keep it from dumping new oil into it.

A nice mod you can do with the charge pipe is to have the Blow-off Valves (BOV) Vent To Atmosphere (VTA), these cars don't require that the BOV air to be re-circulated back into the system as metered air (Like my eclipse GSX did). So you can gain a nice Whhhoooooossssssssssssh sound when you let off the gas if you VTA
This is great info and really well explained. Thank you! I did read some people in these forums saying that they didn't actually find any oil in their OCC after 6 months or so. So does it really catch the oil? Maybe it was an old version of OCC?
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      07-15-2013, 12:10 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fazman View Post
It's not about where you live (I grew up in SoCal all my life until the last couple of years). But as the motor pushes that warm/hot air into the intercooler to get cold before forcing it into the motor... the stock intercooler heats up a lot! It takes time for that intercooler to get cold again even if you are just rolling on the freeway without accelerating afterwards. The other parts of the puzzle are the efficiency of the intercooler to cool the air that passes thru it. So basically the first pull you do on your stock intercooler will be your best run... after that your intercooler is "heat soaked" and all subsequent pulls will have warmer air going thru the system = less power.

No stock intercooler will ever do a good job, they build these cars so you have to upgrade those parts (That's why turbo/super charger cars are "tuner" cars). Also OCC are not really emissions legal, but no one checks for them because its not a performance mod (So no one will care that you have it, plus no one will ever see it unless they take apart the shelf below the HVAC filter EVEN THEN they have to know what to look for).

The reason we want cold air is because you can pack more volume of oxygen into colder air as opposed to warmer air which takes up more space. More Air + More (correctly matched) fuel + More (correctly matched) Spark = More power. That is why Nitrous and other additives help, they make the air colder so you can pack more air volume in per combustion cycle = Moar Power

This lesson has come courtesy of lessons learned via Mike over at Road/Race Engineering in Santa Fe Springs, Ca from wayyyyyy back in the day when they were a small shop.

- Faz
Thanks for the excellent explanation! This must be why people also mix in some E85.

My CPO warranty is ending in March 2014. Should I wait to install my OCC? The BMS OCC is pretty hard to detect because it is under the cowl, so I can't imagine it not passing the visual inspection during smog check. Right? :-)
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      07-15-2013, 12:10 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwarg View Post
This is great info and really well explained. Thank you! I did read some people in these forums saying that they didn't actually find any oil in their OCC after 6 months or so. So does it really catch the oil? Maybe it was an old version of OCC?
The OCC catches oil which will be dumped out from the crankcase. Each motor is unique and each driver style is unique. It can very well be that one person has no oil in the piping and another person is topping up oil every month cuz they are blowing it all out the intercooler --> exahust

It's better to have it than not to have it. But the only one recommended hands down is the BMS OCC, no one else.
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