[Dr. Jekyll]

Last question before I attempt this, a lot of people are saying how fast and easy this is yet the instructions list the requirement of a special tool for pressing the pistons back., Was everyone here able to do theirs with no special tools? Thanks in advance.

[skalberti]

Originally Posted by Dr. Jekyll

Last question before I attempt this, a lot of people are saying how fast and easy this is yet the instructions list the requirement of a special tool for pressing the pistons back., Was everyone here able to do theirs with no special tools? Thanks in advance.

This will make it easier on the rears.

Five Bananas Brake Caliper Press... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TV71GZ1...p_mob_ap_share

[Dr. Jekyll]

Originally Posted by skalberti

This will make it easier on the rears.

Five Bananas Brake Caliper Press... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TV71GZ1...p_mob_ap_share

Thanks bud! I had a friend bring his tool (same concept MAC tool design) over to help me yesterday, the swap was pretty easy. Will let you know how my 104. semi metallics compare to your 105. ceramics.

[JimVR4]

Originally Posted by skalberti

This will make it easier on the rears.

Five Bananas Brake Caliper Press... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TV71GZ1...p_mob_ap_share

You must be joking. The correct tool for the rear pistons would look much different. It would be able to compress and turn the piston to retract it properly

[JimVR4]

These ceramics should fit the M50i
https://www.buybrakes.com/bmw-x5-m50...mic-brake-pads

[skalberti]

Originally Posted by JimVR4

You must be joking. The correct tool for the rear pistons would look much different. It would be able to compress and turn the piston to retract it properly

Turning the piston can actually damage the rubber boot surrounding the piston.

[gofast182]

Originally Posted by JimVR4

These ceramics should fit the M50i
https://www.buybrakes.com/bmw-x5-m50...mic-brake-pads

Not just the M50i, it should fit anything with the M-Sport brakes (395mm rotor).

[JimVR4]

Originally Posted by skalberti

Turning the piston can actually damage the rubber boot surrounding the piston.

The proper tool won't damage anything

[skalberti]

Originally Posted by JimVR4

The proper tool won't damage anything

Link to the tool you're talking about.

[gofast182]

Originally Posted by skalberti

Here's what I used on my upgraded MSport brakes. These are the $650 option.

Originally Posted by Dr. Jekyll

How's the dust level between the 2?

So to confirm, this is what you're using and are saying is much improved yes?

Centric PosiQuiets
105.186801 Front
105.14690 Rear

Originally Posted by skalberti

Correct

skalberti, the numbers above look different than what's in your photo of the pad boxes. Can you please confirm which are correct?

[gofast182]

Also do the rear pistons needs to be twisted or not? There's conflicting info. here.

[skalberti]

Originally Posted by gofast182

skalberti, the numbers above look different than what's in your photo of the pad boxes. Can you please confirm which are correct?

These are the correct part numbers for the posi quiets. The first pads I put on were a different brand. I like the posi quiets better.

I use a piston compressor as that's what my mechanic friend at BMW said to use. Some people twist them in, but I don't

[JimVR4]

The Centric Posi-quiet ceramic pads (105.18680) have been on national back order for a while so I'm investigating alternatives.

Of course the other one in this thread was Powerstop 16-1868. I've found a couple more options and wondered what people think of them. These are both ceramics

Bendix CFC1868

EBC Redstuff DP32370C

Anyone ever use these brands and have any comments?

[R34L15T]

Hi all! Looking for alternatives for my G05 also - but from the UK

Looking for something that's low dust, not spongy and stops well!

Any UK guys/gals out here which have done the swtich from OEM to any others?

[philooo]

did anybody understood why the BMW stock brake create so much dust ? I mean is that because they are cheap ? or they wanted the best 'feel' ? I mean they do work and feel great.... :P But the dust oh boy !

[White340]

Have there been any new developments on the ceramic pad front in the last few months? I'm looking to get the M Sport brakes on a 45e. On my F80 M3 I switched to Akebono and forgot about dust altogether. Is Powerstop the only tested option here? I had them on my M3 before the Akebonos and they also clicked on switching directions and did not have as good of stopping power as the Akebonos do.

[nordring]

Originally Posted by philooo

did anybody understood why the BMW stock brake create so much dust ? I mean is that because they are cheap ? or they wanted the best 'feel' ? I mean they do work and feel great.... :P But the dust oh boy !

I've always been told the stock BMW pad compound is designed to optimizes pedal feel (good initial bite) and minimize noise. If there is one thing luxury car owners hate more than brake dust, it is squeaky brakes!

[elite-fusion]

looking to replace the breaks on my 19 X5 x50i (non-M50i), can anyone please confirm which pads would be best with part numbers, as well as if the tool that was posted towards the end of this thread will work on the car? I do not have the blue or red m-sport breaks, but they are the "i think" bigger brakes than non-m sport cars, but in silver.

Please advise

[jbse39]

Originally Posted by nordring

I've always been told the stock BMW pad compound is designed to optimizes pedal feel (good initial bite) and minimize noise. If there is one thing luxury car owners hate more than brake dust, it is squeaky brakes!

Not a brake expert by any means, but what I've heard over the years is that softer compounds with high carbon content reduce disc wear, and BMW (at least they used to but I personally have not compared them) uses thinner discs to minimize unsprung weight, which is also why they do not recommend turning/resurfacing rotors. Another benefit with the compound is it provides great cold-bite, so when driving at high speed on autobahn and need to brake hard, it maximizes the braking effectiveness. The downside is of course dust from all that carbon content in pads.

[eelnoraa]

Originally Posted by jbse39

Not a brake expert by any means, but what I've heard over the years is that softer compounds with high carbon content reduce disc wear, and BMW (at least they used to but I personally have not compared them) uses thinner discs to minimize unsprung weight, which is also why they do not recommend turning/resurfacing rotors. Another benefit with the compound is it provides great cold-bite, so when driving at high speed on autobahn and need to brake hard, it maximizes the braking effectiveness. The downside is of course dust from all that carbon content in pads.

I can tell you the thinner rotor is not true. Softer compound is true. Reason for not recommending resurface rotor has a lot to do with the technique to do it correctly is rare. Most people/shop don’t do it proper. The cost is new rotor is relatively not high in comparison to the labor cost of resurface and brake job. So why not just take a new rotor and eliminate risk of resurface, right??

I have been doing my own brakes for 10+ years. I have resurfaced one set of rear rotors for one of my bmw once, it is definitely a hassle. After that once time, I will definitely and have just buy new rotors.

As for cold bite, all street pads are design for “cold bite”. Braking performance of a single stop at high speed is majorly dictating by tires, not actual brake kit within reason.

[eelnoraa]

Originally Posted by JimVR4

You must be joking. The correct tool for the rear pistons would look much different. It would be able to compress and turn the piston to retract it properly

Not necessarily this particular one, but this type of tool is the right type. In fact, you don’t even need this, just take two piece of 1/2” wood and a clamp to push the piston back evenly will do. And no, do NOT rotate the piston, just gently push them back. Then you hit the brake paddle, the pistons come out without turning, why they need to turn retracting??? And as other mentioned, there are rubber seals between the caliper and piston, you turn the piston, you break the seal.

If you are DIYer, don’t even bother with special tool for this purpose, you will do brake job once every 3 years. Wood/clamp method will work perfect. If you are doing this everyday, then yes get the proper tools.

[wbeemer]

Are the non M brakes also dusty?