[Tenac]

My concern here is this is not a premiant fix. How long until wear and tear chews that neoprene dust protector??? I'm sure MSS is not stopping here but would be nice to have that information from them.

[r33_RGSport]

Originally Posted by Torijona

IND sent me an update today. Your solution was shared by MSS today as the suggested way to get rid of the knocking noises in the rear.

Knowing that you have successfully done this with good results makes me hopeful. Just wanted to say thanks. IND has also gone above and beyond trying to find a resolution and I am thankful for their hep too.

Glad I can help the community.

Originally Posted by Tenac

My concern here is this is not a premiant fix. How long until wear and tear chews that neoprene dust protector??? I'm sure MSS is not stopping here but would be nice to have that information from them.

It was my concern too when I discuss it with MSS.
With them knowing the material and from my observation on the spring movement, it will last.
The rear suspension movement is just up and down, so no twisting to the spring that may and damage the neoprene.
Of course, MSS is looking for another solution that can be better.

The only downside on this fix.
You won't be able to adjust the height while they are assembled.
This way will damage the neoprene.

[chrisfc923]

Unfortunately we just tried the recommended fix and it didn’t work. After reviewing it looks like the issue is the helper spring. It doesn’t seem to be sitting right and doesn’t fit all the way into the adjuster. I’ll try to post pics later but there’s a slight gap between the helper spring and adjuster. Also the strut has marks where the black spring is hitting it. You can see that the helper spring doesn’t sit straight with the strut just by looking at it. The strut isn’t centered in the hole when you put the helper spring and adjuster on. I think that’s the main culprit as when there’s a load on the spring it hits the strut.

[r33_RGSport]

Originally Posted by topaz330

Unfortunately we just tried the recommended fix and it didn’t work. After reviewing it looks like the issue is the helper spring. It doesn’t seem to be sitting right and doesn’t fit all the way into the adjuster. I’ll try to post pics later but there’s a slight gap between the helper spring and adjuster. Also the strut has marks where the black spring is hitting it. You can see that the helper spring doesn’t sit straight with the strut just by looking at it. The strut isn’t centered in the hole when you put the helper spring and adjuster on. I think that’s the main culprit as when there’s a load on the spring it hits the strut.

This is happened because the black spring wasn't seated properly.
You'll need either press the black spring so it seated properly or align it before compressing the main spring.

[chrisfc923]

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

This is happened because the black spring wasn't seated properly.
You'll need either press the black spring so it seated properly or align it before compressing the main spring.

Anyway I can FaceTime you next time I bring it back to the shop ? We tried to grease it up as much as we can to get it to seat properly but it just wouldn’t go. Unless we’re missing something it just seems like the fit isn’t there without trimming the paint off the spring possibly. I’ll email you pics

[r33_RGSport]

Originally Posted by topaz330

Anyway I can FaceTime you next time I bring it back to the shop ? We tried to grease it up as much as we can to get it to seat properly but it just wouldn’t go. Unless we’re missing something it just seems like the fit isn’t there without trimming the paint off the spring possibly. I’ll email you pics

Sure.

[Torijona]

Originally Posted by Torijona

IND sent me an update today. Your solution was shared by MSS today as the suggested way to get rid of the knocking noises in the rear.

Knowing that you have successfully done this with good results makes me hopeful. Just wanted to say thanks. IND has also gone above and beyond trying to find a resolution and I am thankful for their hep too.

I was told today, Monday, to not try this anymore since 4 people tried and did not work. I found the issue for mine today and shared with IND that I found the culprit so that they can let MSS know. I have not shared details with them at this point. I want to hear back from them before I do.

But do not waste your time and money with the sleeves for now.

[r33_RGSport]

Originally Posted by Torijona

I was told today, Monday, to not try this anymore since 4 people tried and did not work. I found the issue for mine today and shared with IND that I found the culprit so that they can let MSS know. I have not shared details with them at this point. I want to hear back from them before I do.

But do not waste your time and money with the sleeves for now.

I just finished trying to fix another local customer.
What you mentioned is correct, the noise is still there.
Spent a few hours trying to pinpoint the noise and try to figure out the fix, and this is what I found out.

I disconnected the sway bar from the lower arm, pull the car out and drive in the parking lot, and there are no more noise.
Unfortunately after adjusting the positioning of sway bar link and check if it hit anything, can't find any fix for it.

Not so sure if this is what you've find out, but if you want to PM me and share the information, that would be great.

From parts catalog, I noticed that BMW changed the Active SwayBar in MY 04/20.

I am waiting for my H&R to arrive so I can give it a try.
With today finding, I am fully confident that the noise is not caused by the MSS spring.

[Tenac]

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

I just finished trying to fix another local customer.


I am waiting for my H&R to arrive so I can give it a try.
With today finding, I am fully confident that the noise is not caused by the MSS spring.

This will be interesting, if H&R drops the same and it shows the same noise, I'd think the sway bar would be a possible issue with going that low. Also would mean it's not isolated to MSS... Next Monday I'll get my MSS installed and will support investigation on that as well. Worst case I can always go back to stock until we find a resolution. The shop I am working with is very interested in seeing what they can find as well.

To me this is great community support of our suppliers by early adopting and working together to find the root cause.

[r33_RGSport]

Originally Posted by Tenac

This will be interesting, if H&R drops the same and it shows the same noise, I'd think the sway bar would be a possible issue with going that low. Also would mean it's not isolated to MSS... Next Monday I'll get my MSS installed and will support investigation on that as well. Worst case I can always go back to stock until we find a resolution. The shop I am working with is very interested in seeing what they can find as well.

To me this is great community support of our suppliers by early adopting and working together to find the root cause.

Appreciate the contribution.

[QF8]

My car goes into the dealer in 2 days time to have the noise fixed with a part they have had to order in. It will be interesting to see what they come up with.

[Alan l.]

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

From parts catalog, I noticed that BMW changed the Active SwayBar in MY 04/20.

Does it look different? My X5M was built in 3/20 so wondering whats different. I do not have the noise (car is stock) at the moment.

Alan

[r33_RGSport]

Update on this noise issue:

Torijona PM me on some details on his issue.
With what he told me, I am confident that the issue is with BMW original rear sway bar link.

BMW rear sway bar link uses flex joint on where it connects to the sway bar and solid bushing where it is sandwhiched to the lower arm with M10 bolt and nut.

With the amount of drop that all of us been doing, the top flex joint will max-ed out and push the sway bar side to side since the bottom part is a solid bushing.

I am going to prototype a sway bar link that will allow movement on both end.
I will report back once tested.

[RAUDERRIPPER]

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

Update on this noise issue:

Torijona PM me on some details on his issue.
With what he told me, I am confident that the issue is with BMW original rear sway bar link.

BMW rear sway bar link uses flex joint on where it connects to the sway bar and solid bushing where it is sandwhiched to the lower arm with M10 bolt and nut.

With the amount of drop that all of us been doing, the top flex joint will max-ed out and push the sway bar side to side since the bottom part is a solid bushing.

I am going to prototype a sway bar link that will allow movement on both end.
I will report back once tested.

Thanks for being the man!

[Torijona]

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

Update on this noise issue:

Torijona PM me on some details on his issue.
With what he told me, I am confident that the issue is with BMW original rear sway bar link.

BMW rear sway bar link uses flex joint on where it connects to the sway bar and solid bushing where it is sandwhiched to the lower arm with M10 bolt and nut.

With the amount of drop that all of us been doing, the top flex joint will max-ed out and push the sway bar side to side since the bottom part is a solid bushing.

I am going to prototype a sway bar link that will allow movement on both end.
I will report back once tested.

Thank you all for being patient as I needed to sort a few things out first. I reached out to Ben privately to see if my fix would help him, but with different build dates may have different parts.

I know that this will not fix everything as we may have a few differences amongst builds, but hoping this helps others. It took care of my issue and a friend's.

The noise is a clunking noise when suddenly turning left or right. We were able to isolate to the sway bar. We took it to an specialist who had not worked on the car and he noticed something unusual we did not spot before. Upon inspection, top portion of sway bar links were equally loose on both sides in the rear (these were not touched at all during the install and that is why we did not even think about checking those nuts). Everything looks good but there is slack on both sides. We adjusted further to remove the slack (on both sides). That resolved the issue. Keep in mind that the guy probably went a bit beyond torque spec. I trust the guy so I know it will be safe, but it might reduce links' life. We could only think that they are either coming from the factory (unlikely because I did not have the sound before) or they become loose as you change the springs and put the car on the ground.

Also, if you are installing these, please buy aftermarket shorter bump stocks. I might cut mine after doing the alignment tomorrow if I am still experiencing the side pull on the rear while going through bumps.

Also, if you are not using a commercial spring compressor, recheck torque on upper strut nut. The spring is very short and it is near impossible to torque it appropriately. This can be easily done by adjusting once the car is on the ground.

I appreciate all the help I received here and hope this post can save others some time. I felt such a relief yesterday after dealing with these issues for over 2 weeks and 2 days. Now I can enjoy the springs, the ride and the stance. I will report back tomorrow after doing the alignment.

[YolkyPalky]

Seems like a lot of headaches just to lower the “wheel gap”, I guess I’m glad I actually like the stock height and the so-called “wheel gap” looks perfectly fine to me, or rather like an SUV should.

[Tenac]

Originally Posted by YolkyPalky

Seems like a lot of headaches just to lower the “wheel gap”, I guess I’m glad I actually like the stock height and the so-called “wheel gap” looks perfectly fine to me, or rather like an SUV should.

I call it early adopters, peeps like this will go through the headache so others won't with Gen2. But yes if you like stock you should not attempt to change.

[bobbis1]

Originally Posted by YolkyPalky

Seems like a lot of headaches just to lower the “wheel gap”, I guess I’m glad I actually like the stock height and the so-called “wheel gap” looks perfectly fine to me, or rather like an SUV should.

I think the ride quality improvement is a main attraction as well.

[QF8]

Originally Posted by YolkyPalky

Seems like a lot of headaches just to lower the “wheel gap”, I guess I’m glad I actually like the stock height and the so-called “wheel gap” looks perfectly fine to me, or rather like an SUV should.

The car looks so much better lowered and the ride feels better too. Once this knock noise is sorted which i have had from new you would be mad not to lower you car.

Hats off to r33_RGSPORT and Torijona who have the mechanical know how to investigate this for all of us to benefit.

[YolkyPalky]

Originally Posted by QF8

The car looks so much better lowered and the ride feels better too. Once this knock noise is sorted which i have had from new you would be mad not to lower you car.

[Mo2002]

If I'm not having this noise with being stock, I shouldn't have it once MSS is installed, correct?

[chrisfc923]

Originally Posted by Mo2002

If I'm not having this noise with being stock, I shouldn't have it once MSS is installed, correct?

I didn’t have this noise stock and developed it after the drop.