[totalone]

I was wondering what Jack Stands weight limitation people use for x5.

I have 3 ton once I use for my m440, I wonder if they will be enough for x5 45e?

Anyone has any input on this? Thank you!

[jad03060]

A 3T stand should be more than enough. The max weight of an X5 is less than 3T, and you'd be using at least a pair of them.

[totalone]

Originally Posted by jad03060

A 3T stand should be more than enough. The max weight of an X5 is less than 3T, and you'd be using at least a pair of them.

That is what I figured. Do you think I need a jack that is more than 3T for x5?

again its 45e those are 7k lb about 3.15 tons

Also, I have a full plastic cover under the car and there is no sight of frame. Do I need to take plastic cover off in order to place jack stand?

[jad03060]

The weight on the 45e is about 5700 pounds. Now, the max GVW, fully loaded is more, but you generally aren't trying to work on a vehicle full of people and cargo!

[totalone]

Originally Posted by jad03060

The weight on the 45e is about 5700 pounds. Now, the max GVW, fully loaded is more, but you generally aren't trying to work on a vehicle full of people and cargo!

Where do you place Jack stands? I have everything covered with plastic covers underneath the car

[eelnoraa]

Common guys. Let first look under the car, you will see the obvious Jack point. Under carriage cover does NOT cover Jack points. This is true for all bmws. You will need a Jack pad kind of thing, you can easily DIY using hockey puck, or you can buy them off Amazon.

[totalone]

Originally Posted by eelnoraa

Common guys. Let first look under the car, you will see the obvious Jack point. Under carriage cover does NOT cover Jack points. This is true for all bmws. You will need a Jack pad kind of thing, you can easily DIY using hockey puck, or you can buy them off Amazon.

The question is not how or where to jack up the car. In my current situation I need to lift front and rear on same side. When I jack up the car I want to know if there is a place where I can put jack stand and move jack to rear so I can do the same thing there.

This is my fits BMMs and It has wayyy to much under cover from my previous car, so I dont see if there is a frame where I can place jack stand under. So before I start doing anything I want to know if anyone has done this so they can point me to a direction instead of me wasting time.

[aka Hootie]

I use these for my M3, a pair is rated at 4,000 pounds. They are expensive but make it super easy to put a BMW on stands. I have not needed to use them on my X5. You would need to check to make sure the stands give enough height for what you are trying to do.

https://jackpointjackstands.com/

[totalone]

Originally Posted by aka Hootie

I use these for my M3, a pair is rated at 4,000 pounds. They are expensive but make it super easy to put a BMW on stands. I have not needed to use them on my X5. You would need to check to make sure the stands give enough height for what you are trying to do.

https://jackpointjackstands.com/

Damn these are so awesome! Pricey though. I might just invest in to these. These work with any jack id assume right?

[eelnoraa]

Originally Posted by totalone

The question is not how or where to jack up the car. In my current situation I need to lift front and rear on same side. When I jack up the car I want to know if there is a place where I can put jack stand and move jack to rear so I can do the same thing there.

This is my fits BMMs and It has wayyy to much under cover from my previous car, so I dont see if there is a frame where I can place jack stand under. So before I start doing anything I want to know if anyone has done this so they can point me to a direction instead of me wasting time.

For bmw, and maybe many other, chassis is quite stiff. you can jack up using front jack point, the whole side will go up. And place jack stand at the rear jack point or wise versus.

Also, if you have a floor Jack, there are subframe bulkhead for both front and rear. They are at the center line of the car. These subframe jack points are not covered by panel either.

Quickly search for better picture from Auricom

https://g05.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1824810

[jad03060]

These are also a viable option https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-62...e17e03685&th=1

The 3T version might not go low enough, but the 2T version should still be plenty to hold the vehicle, and it's less expensive. There are other similar ones out there as well.

[eelnoraa]

Originally Posted by jad03060

These are also a viable option https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-62...e17e03685&th=1

The 3T version might not go low enough, but the 2T version should still be plenty to hold the vehicle, and it's less expensive. There are other similar ones out there as well.

Damnnn. Just want to make sure novice and starting DIYers' don't get this. You cannot get this under most cars except some very big trucks.
For this particular version, the lowetst height is 11". X5 even at the highest suspension setting, it won't get under it. There is a reason why bottle jack isn't commonly use use for auto repair or come with the car. They are small, large weight capacity, but they don't fit under car.

[eelnoraa]

Originally Posted by aka Hootie

I use these for my M3, a pair is rated at 4,000 pounds. They are expensive but make it super easy to put a BMW on stands. I have not needed to use them on my X5. You would need to check to make sure the stands give enough height for what you are trying to do.

https://jackpointjackstands.com/

I have used at track for swapping brake pads. A fellow driver has a set. This makes jacking job faster. My only concern is as you said, they are expansive, and only works for cars with the similar height. If I have a 3 series and a x5, the same set probably won’t work.

To OP, if your goal is DIY maintenance, my suggestion is to keep it simple. Get a low profile jack, a pair 3-4T steel jacks. Don’t need to be fancy to start. These are good tools. You can do a lot with them. And for a new x5, You don’t need much for the first 3 years of ownership, most are covered by bmw. Maybe 2-3oil changes if you drive a lot and want to do 5k kind of interval. And maybe a brake job if you drive aggressively. After 3 years, if you are into this, you can upgrade some of the tools. But more likely, you will always realize simple is better.

[Marty in NY]

I use what jad03060 recommended. I have used these on all my cars for years. Like eelnoraa mentioned, the lowest setting is 11" but I have used them on BMW's that were only 8" off the ground. eelnoraa also mentioned how stiff the BMW chassis is and how you can lift the front with a floor jack and the rear (same side) will raise enough to get this jack under it. Then you lift the rear higher and the front goes higher, you remove the floor jack and put another one of these in its place. Takes only minutes.
I rebuilt a transmission valve body on a '94 840 and had all four corners of the car up on these. Very stable, easy to use. I needed to have the car running when refilling the tranny with me under it, these easily did the trick. I've used them on Triumphs, BMW's, VW's, Porsches, you name it, they work well. I will never trust any hydraulic "only" jack if I need to be under the car even for a few seconds. These lift by a hydraulic cylinder but lock in place via a mechanical lever. Easy to raise or lower.

.

[eelnoraa]

I have been able to do some bigger DIY jobs with just normal jack stands (without the bottle jack), including LS swap on a FD, E46 M3 rear sub frame swap to E46 sedan ... Jobs that needs car on 4 stands, I will just jack up using front or rear subframe point. Front will have to be up first with low cars

For jobs like oil changes or brakes, where only one end needs to be up. I just do what you mentioned, jack up by front jack point, place stand in rear, or vice versa. Even in E46/E39 time, BMW frame is stiff enough, the difference between front and rear is much less than 1". All doors still operate properly if just hold up by one front or one rear jack point. with new chasis, stiffness should even be better.

I do enough car work that I eventually got a set of quick jack, which I thought I need. However, I don't think the investment is too great now. Sure it is more stable, but jack stands are also very stable if use properly. It also takes some time and effort to setup quick jack. For brake or oil change, I found I still rather use floor jack and stands. Much quicker. Since I got quick jack, the only time I use it is for tire rotation and brake breed. Totally don't get my money worth. And it takes up valuable garage space as well. I will probably sell the set if I don't use it enough.

[jad03060]

The 2T version low limit is 8-5/8". If you have air suspension, you can probably fit that under...2T is still plenty as you'd be using them in pairs.

[totalone]

Thank you guys and gals. I was able to locate front frame where to jack and rear bulk head.

However, rear bulk head I am not sure jack would fit on it since there are connecting rods. Will give it a try n couple of days.

Ended up getting a Daytona 3T jack with 3T jack stands, also bough BMW adapters for jack and jack stand.

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by totalone

Thank you guys and gals. I was able to locate front frame where to jack and rear bulk head.

However, rear bulk head I am not sure jack would fit on it since there are connecting rods. Will give it a try n couple of days.

Ended up getting a Daytona 3T jack with 3T jack stands, also bough BMW adapters for jack and jack stand.

I just jacked up the X5 and changed my oil yesterday. Sorry, I was mid process when the thought came to take pix or videos This was my first oil change since ownership. I found that the X sits too low for me to slide under it myself so I had to jack it up a bit. I put my floor jack (probably like the Daytona you just bought) under the passenger side rear jacking point and only needed about three pumps of the handle to lift the front jacking point about an inch so I could slide my Powerbuilt 3T hydraulic jack with integrated mechanical jack stand under the passenger front jacking point, this jack is 11” when all the way down and the X was about 10”.

Then I used that Powerbuilt jack to raise the front, I needed to go two clicks to give me the room I needed to slide under it. The oil drain is quite far toward the back of the engine. Just a point to mention…for anyone using the integrated hydraulic jack with jackstand, you need to make sure that the mechanical arm lowers into it slot so you are not relying on the hydraulics to hold the car up. To do this you jack it beyond the height you want, then press down on the metal arm and then slowly release the hydraulic valve till you see the metal arm go down and lock into its slot. At this point, you now have a mechanical jack stand holding up the car. Works great.

Once the passenger side was up, I did the same routine on the drivers side so when finished, the rear tires were on the ground and the front tires were about an inch above the ground. This was great for putting my oil pan under the car with ample room to remove the drain plug but you now need to grow about a foot or two to work in the engine bay I like to let the oil drain while I work in the engine bay removing the oil filter, doing a bit of cleaning, etc so I used my step stool with a Terry towel for a fender skirt.

The dreaded oil filter access. Yeah, well, what can I say? Oh, this is a topic about jacks not the ill placed oil filter so I’ll save the rest for a different thread. If you have basic jack stands and not the hydraulic type, you would have to raise the rear much much higher in order to get your jack stand under the front jacking pad at the height you need. That's the beauty of the hydraulic type as I only needed an inch more. Otherwise you will need to place your floor jack under the rear or front central jacking point to get the height you need.

[totalone]

Originally Posted by Marty in NY

I just jacked up the X5 and changed my oil yesterday. Sorry, I was mid process when the thought came to take pix or videos This was my first oil change since ownership. I found that the X sits too low for me to slide under it myself so I had to jack it up a bit. I put my floor jack (probably like the Daytona you just bought) under the passenger side rear jacking point and only needed about three pumps of the handle to lift the front jacking point about an inch so I could slide my Powerbuilt 3T hydraulic jack with integrated mechanical jack stand under the passenger front jacking point, this jack is 11” when all the way down and the X was about 10”.

Then I used that Powerbuilt jack to raise the front, I needed to go two clicks to give me the room I needed to slide under it. The oil drain is quite far toward the back of the engine. Just a point to mention…for anyone using the integrated hydraulic jack with jackstand, you need to make sure that the mechanical arm lowers into it slot so you are not relying on the hydraulics to hold the car up. To do this you jack it beyond the height you want, then press down on the metal arm and then slowly release the hydraulic valve till you see the metal arm go down and lock into its slot. At this point, you now have a mechanical jack stand holding up the car. Works great.

Once the passenger side was up, I did the same routine on the drivers side so when finished, the rear tires were on the ground and the front tires were about an inch above the ground. This was great for putting my oil pan under the car with ample room to remove the drain plug but you now need to grow about a foot or two to work in the engine bay I like to let the oil drain while I work in the engine bay removing the oil filter, doing a bit of cleaning, etc so I used my step stool with a Terry towel for a fender skirt.

The dreaded oil filter access. Yeah, well, what can I say? Oh, this is a topic about jacks not the ill placed oil filter so I’ll save the rest for a different thread. If you have basic jack stands and not the hydraulic type, you would have to raise the rear much much higher in order to get your jack stand under the front jacking pad at the height you need. That's the beauty of the hydraulic type as I only needed an inch more. Otherwise you will need to place your floor jack under the rear or front central jacking point to get the height you need.

Thanks. For an oil change I use ramps. I would just ramp front wheel on ramps and its high enough for me to get under it.

For this work I need car to be lifted from ground so I can take wheels off

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by totalone

Thanks. For an oil change I use ramps. I would just ramp front wheel on ramps and its high enough for me to get under it.

For this work I need car to be lifted from ground so I can take wheels off

Right. For wheel/tire changing, because its quick and I'm not laying under the car, I use two hydraulic floor jacks, one for the front and one for the rear, same side. If I'm removing a wheel to properly clean it, I use my hydraulic jack stand cause it's going to be off the car for quite some time. In all these years I never bought a set of ramps, just never trusted them

[ScaldedDog]

I posted this in another thread awhile back, but I think this is my all-time favorite tool, and the older I get the more I appreciate it.



Mark

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by ScaldedDog

I posted this in another thread awhile back, but I think this is my all-time favorite tool, and the older I get the more I appreciate it.



Mark

I'll be right over!