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      03-26-2021, 07:41 AM   #23
chrisnack
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Originally Posted by hyde View Post
Thanks Chris,
Oh yes, that's exactly what I did, I cut the casing(?) and then used electrical tape to secure it at ideal length. I am seeing several empty fuse slots, instead of cutting this and doing tap (I don't want to mess with existing fuses), can I just use one of the empty slots, preferably one that has optional equipment that I don't have, and switched power.
You can but you will have to figure out what they are and if they are battery or switched which is a pain in the butt on a BMW since accessories stay powered on for a period after the car is off.

I would use the ones recommended as they are most likely empty and if they aren’t then just use a tap anyways.
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      03-26-2021, 08:36 AM   #24
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Guys,

Been doing a bit of research before fitting my Blackvue. Been trying to find fuse locations to use for switched and constant power. Read most of the threads I can find here and yes, there are options for 'piggy backing' on existing fuses.

But I got curious... like most cars, there are slots in each of my fuse boxes with no fuses. In my innocence I assumed that these empty slots would still be powered, even if that function wasn't used on my particular configuration. My thinking being if I can find a 'spare/empty' fuse location I can use a fuse tap to access power without impacting on any existing circuit load. I've probed around with a multi-meter and every empty fuse location I try is dead, I was expecting to find at least one permanent live in one of them.

Am I missing something? I cant believe BMW install a bespoke wiring loom for each customer build on the production line. I would have thought the looms are all the same, every option catered for, and only enabled with control units and appropriate fuses.

I'm confused.
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      03-26-2021, 12:31 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kas63 View Post
Guys,

Been doing a bit of research before fitting my Blackvue. Been trying to find fuse locations to use for switched and constant power. Read most of the threads I can find here and yes, there are options for 'piggy backing' on existing fuses.

But I got curious... like most cars, there are slots in each of my fuse boxes with no fuses. In my innocence I assumed that these empty slots would still be powered, even if that function wasn't used on my particular configuration. My thinking being if I can find a 'spare/empty' fuse location I can use a fuse tap to access power without impacting on any existing circuit load. I've probed around with a multi-meter and every empty fuse location I try is dead, I was expecting to find at least one permanent live in one of them.

Am I missing something? I cant believe BMW install a bespoke wiring loom for each customer build on the production line. I would have thought the looms are all the same, every option catered for, and only enabled with control units and appropriate fuses.

I'm confused.
That is very confusing, every other car, including my old BMWs F15 and E70 had very convenient empty fuse slots that were actually powered, I just simply slipped the hard wiring kit with fuse at the end (pictured) and it just worked. Did you test those empty slots while X5 engine is ON?

Also are you referring to the fuse block in the front or the back?
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      03-26-2021, 12:52 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyde View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kas63 View Post
Guys,

Been doing a bit of research before fitting my Blackvue. Been trying to find fuse locations to use for switched and constant power. Read most of the threads I can find here and yes, there are options for 'piggy backing' on existing fuses.

But I got curious... like most cars, there are slots in each of my fuse boxes with no fuses. In my innocence I assumed that these empty slots would still be powered, even if that function wasn't used on my particular configuration. My thinking being if I can find a 'spare/empty' fuse location I can use a fuse tap to access power without impacting on any existing circuit load. I've probed around with a multi-meter and every empty fuse location I try is dead, I was expecting to find at least one permanent live in one of them.

Am I missing something? I cant believe BMW install a bespoke wiring loom for each customer build on the production line. I would have thought the looms are all the same, every option catered for, and only enabled with control units and appropriate fuses.

I'm confused.
That is very confusing, every other car, including my old BMWs F15 and E70 had very convenient empty fuse slots that were actually powered, I just simply slipped the hard wiring kit with fuse at the end (pictured) and it just worked. Did you test those empty slots while X5 engine is ON?

Also are you referring to the fuse block in the front or the back?
So far only the rear fuse box....and yes with the car on. But even if it was off I was expecting to find at least one fuse location live - something in there must need a permanent live even when the car is off.

I confess I haven't been completely methodical yet. That comes next.
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      03-26-2021, 04:53 PM   #27
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Stop complicating this guys, fuse f27 and f72 in the front fuse panel in the passenger kick panel have everything you need. In most cars these are empty. My radar and Blackvue are wired off these two. There is no reason to run wire all the way to the back when it’s right there. There is also a ground lug there as well.

You only have to remove 3 trim pieces and only one screw and it’s all right there.

Pull up on the door sill trim with the logo in it. Then there is one screw for the piece in the corner. The screw will now be exposed after removing the door sill. Remove that and then that corner piece will pull out. The piece under the glove box has two twist retentions, and that whole piece comes down.

Fuse box is up and to the right, it faces down towards the floor. Ground lug is just under carpet at bottom.
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      03-30-2021, 07:36 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by chrisnack View Post
Stop complicating this guys, fuse f27 and f72 in the front fuse panel in the passenger kick panel have everything you need. In most cars these are empty. My radar and Blackvue are wired off these two. There is no reason to run wire all the way to the back when it’s right there. There is also a ground lug there as well.

You only have to remove 3 trim pieces and only one screw and it’s all right there.

Pull up on the door sill trim with the logo in it. Then there is one screw for the piece in the corner. The screw will now be exposed after removing the door sill. Remove that and then that corner piece will pull out. The piece under the glove box has two twist retentions, and that whole piece comes down.

Fuse box is up and to the right, it faces down towards the floor. Ground lug is just under carpet at bottom.
Thanks for this, were you able to confirm which one is switched and which one is constant, do you happen to have the picture of fuse tap installed? I am trying to figure out which side is load and which side is draw? When you installed the fuse tap, is the wire tail facing the door or driver side?
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      03-30-2021, 10:37 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyde View Post
Thanks for this, were you able to confirm which one is switched and which one is constant, do you happen to have the picture of fuse tap installed? I am trying to figure out which side is load and which side is draw? When you installed the fuse tap, is the wire tail facing the door or driver side?
Orientation doesn’t matter as far as I know, it’s 2 circuits. I believe the first slot closest/bottom is for the fuse itself and the 2nd/top slot is for the “tap”.

I will try to grab a picture of mine tomorrow. In my post way back I said which one was which for the fuses.
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      03-31-2021, 11:32 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by chrisnack View Post
Orientation doesn’t matter as far as I know, it’s 2 circuits. I believe the first slot closest/bottom is for the fuse itself and the 2nd/top slot is for the “tap”.

I will try to grab a picture of mine tomorrow. In my post way back I said which one was which for the fuses.
When you plugin the fuse tap (or hard wired fuse) the wire has to be in certain direction, otherwise the line is not fuse protected. So there is a difference which way you plug the fuse tap.
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      03-31-2021, 12:08 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisnack View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hyde View Post
Thanks for this, were you able to confirm which one is switched and which one is constant, do you happen to have the picture of fuse tap installed? I am trying to figure out which side is load and which side is draw? When you installed the fuse tap, is the wire tail facing the door or driver side?
Orientation doesn’t matter as far as I know, it’s 2 circuits. I believe the first slot closest/bottom is for the fuse itself and the 2nd/top slot is for the “tap”.

I will try to grab a picture of mine tomorrow. In my post way back I said which one was which for the fuses.
The fuse tap orientation actually does matter. The correct orientation is to have pin A (farthest from the wire, and pin shorted to both fuses) connected to the hot side. This allows the original circuit in the car to have independent fuse (original). So does the new circuit/dashcam protected by the other/new fuse independently.

If reversed then the original and the new fuses would be in series. The total loads will be the original + dashcam and it may potentially result to blowing either fuse.
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      03-31-2021, 12:27 PM   #32
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If you do any research you will see a million responses saying it matters and some saying it doesn’t, up to you, if you are really worried about it take a multimeter and figure it out. YMMV.

The circuit isn’t connected without a fuse in the tap, so saying it’s not protected is incorrect.

Do whatever you are comfortable with.

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      03-31-2021, 02:20 PM   #33
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I didn't say either circuit would be unprotected.

Let me try again. If the fuse-a-tap is oriented correctly both fuses will have a load relative to the equipment they are connected to.

Reversing the orientation will make the bottom fuse gets both loads. It probably won't matter if the total loads are small enough for the bottom fuse but orientation clearly has difference.
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      03-31-2021, 03:02 PM   #34
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Hi Chris, I didn't mean to challenge or offend you, and the reason I asked which direction you plugged it was because I am NOT using add-a-fuse, instead I am planning to plug fuse directly into empty slot, which means I would need to know the polarity for sure, otherwise the line to my dashcam is not protected.

It's basically like wrapping the cord in one of the fuse pins and that pin would need to be the correct side (load vs draw), if I "wrap" the wire on the wrong side, it's as good as wiring straight into battery, no fuse. :-/
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      04-01-2021, 09:42 AM   #35
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No worries, was just trying to help, sorry if i gave incorrect information.
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      04-06-2021, 05:17 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_bmw View Post
I didn't say either circuit would be unprotected.

Let me try again. If the fuse-a-tap is oriented correctly both fuses will have a load relative to the equipment they are connected to.

Reversing the orientation will make the bottom fuse gets both loads. It probably won't matter if the total loads are small enough for the bottom fuse but orientation clearly has difference.

Hi Eagle,
Could you tell me how to check the polarity using multimeter? I am not using add-a-fuse so it would be extremely important that I plug my fuse in correct orientation so the line is protected.

Thanks in advance.
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      04-06-2021, 11:02 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyde View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_bmw View Post
I didn't say either circuit would be unprotected.

Let me try again. If the fuse-a-tap is oriented correctly both fuses will have a load relative to the equipment they are connected to.

Reversing the orientation will make the bottom fuse gets both loads. It probably won't matter if the total loads are small enough for the bottom fuse but orientation clearly has difference.

Hi Eagle,
Could you tell me how to check the polarity using multimeter? I am not using add-a-fuse so it would be extremely important that I plug my fuse in correct orientation so the line is protected.

Thanks in advance.
The fuse itself doesn't have polarity. It is just a metal wire so you can insert either way. I think you are asking which is the line side and load side. I'd use a voltmeter set to DC, remove the fuse and tap either side with the positive terminal with the black terminal to the car ground. If you can measure 12+V then that's the hot or line side. The load side without the fuse should be almost 0V. You would want to connect say your dashcam to the load side.
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      04-06-2021, 11:06 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyde View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_bmw View Post
I didn't say either circuit would be unprotected.

Let me try again. If the fuse-a-tap is oriented correctly both fuses will have a load relative to the equipment they are connected to.

Reversing the orientation will make the bottom fuse gets both loads. It probably won't matter if the total loads are small enough for the bottom fuse but orientation clearly has difference.

Hi Eagle,
Could you tell me how to check the polarity using multimeter? I am not using add-a-fuse so it would be extremely important that I plug my fuse in correct orientation so the line is protected.

Thanks in advance.
The fuse itself doesn't have polarity. It is just a metal wire so you can insert either way. Identifying the line side and the load side is pretty easy. I'd use a voltmeter set to measure DC voltage, remove the fuse and tap either side with the positive terminal with the black terminal connected to the car ground. If you can measure 12+V then that's the hot or line side. The load side without the fuse should be almost 0V. You would want to connect your dashcam to the load side.
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      04-06-2021, 11:24 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_bmw View Post
The fuse itself doesn't have polarity. It is just a metal wire so you can insert either way. Identifying the line side and the load side is pretty easy. I'd use a voltmeter set to measure DC voltage, remove the fuse and tap either side with the positive terminal with the black terminal connected to the car ground. If you can measure 12+V then that's the hot or line side. The load side without the fuse should be almost 0V. You would want to connect your dashcam to the load side.

Perfect, Thank you! Will be trying this tomorrow.

I can't believe how much harder they made it to reveal the fuse block completely, I pulled pretty hard on the floor liner and the trim, it wouldn't budge, I think I need a trim tool to remove the bottom side piece.

Chris, thank you again, F72 is literally the only one exposed! And according to your earlier posts it is switched, so that's what I wanted.


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      04-10-2021, 10:40 AM   #40
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I am trying to find a fuse which is switched during ignition, but when I try after all electronics turns off including ambient lighting and almost all fuses are still constant at 12V. I am not sure if everything has turned off completely yet. How to turn off the system completely to find a fuse which is off?
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      04-10-2021, 11:38 AM   #41
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I am trying to find a fuse which is switched during ignition, but when I try after all electronics turns off including ambient lighting and almost all fuses are still constant at 12V. I am not sure if everything has turned off completely yet. How to turn off the system completely to find a fuse which is off?
Correct, power stays on for accessories for a few minutes after, that's a BMW thing.

F27 and F72 as stated many times in this thread are your friend.
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      04-10-2021, 11:58 AM   #42
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Correct, power stays on for accessories for a few minutes after, that's a BMW thing.

F27 and F72 as stated many times in this thread are your friend.
I am trying to find a fuse myself, but the fuses show 12V even after 15 mins and F27 seems to be larger fuse
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      04-10-2021, 11:58 AM   #43
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Yes one is standard size and one is micro/mini (can't remember which).
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      04-10-2021, 01:37 PM   #44
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Just wanted to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread. I've read it a few times recently and today I successfully installed my blackvue dr900x dual channel with cloud connection.

Threading the cables took a little perseverance but it wasn't difficult... Just eased some trim away and removed others as needed.

I used the fuses recommended in this thread for permanent and switched live, they worked a charm. Even threading the cable into the tailgate was a breeze after watching the original video in this thread.

I used a modified blendmount to attach the camera to the mirror. Blendmount don't make a RHD mount but the LHD one can be reconfigured with a little thought and works perfectly.

So.... Once again... A big thank you to this thread.
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