[hl0m4n]

Originally Posted by MadDog

edit: My desktop computer shows "Physical Address Extension" also.


Question: Did you actually run a memory test, or just see if the correct amount of RAM shows as being present ??

check memory through the my computer and view system. i did not do an actual memory stress test but i have the rma and everything for corsair, should i just ship them out as this is likely the problem?

PS: the hunter is great. im trying to get that bow you couldn't but damn it still takes soooo long haha.

[MadDog]

Originally Posted by hl0m4n

check memory through the my computer and view system. i did not do an actual memory stress test but i have the rma and everything for corsair, should i just ship them out as this is likely the problem?

The only way to tell if it's truly the memory is to test it. Although, right now, I would tend to think that your memory is probably flaky.

Originally Posted by hl0m4n

PS: the hunter is great. im trying to get that bow you couldn't but damn it still takes soooo long haha.

WTF are you talking about ???

[hl0m4n]

well i mailed out the ram sticks to corsair today but now today my desktop is having problems now .

when i boot up i get a mobo message saying im in single channel ram (512mb vs. full 1gb) and i have to press f4 to confirm. shit so a ram stick in my desktop is busted too also corsair. corsair is like the best ram company why am i having problems? the ram in this computer has been in there for about 4+ years compared to just two on the other ones i just shipped to them.

[UltimateBMW]

If you had 2 sticks in your computer, and then took 1 out and are only running off one stick now. That is why you are being prompted. Because you are only using 1 channel, vs your previous 2.

You can fix this by going into your BIOS setting and making the appropriet alteration. But without knowing your motherboard or brand of BIOS, I can't really help you much from here.

My advice would be to not change any settings and just wait for your new stick to arrive and install it.


Also, when installing ram you want to install it in dual channel mode. Basically it boils down to this:

There are 4 slots for ram. 1 2 3 4 (arbitrarily numbered from left to right in this example)
Slots 1 and 2 are on one channel, and 3 and 4 are on another. So if you have only 2 sticks of ram you want to install them in 1 and 3, or in 2 and 4 (1 stick using each channel). This way you get the benefit of the dual channel ram configuration. And you can tweak your BIOS to best make use of this increase in bandwidth.

I would read up in your motherboard's manual if you really want to get into it and learn what your particular BIOS has to offer. But honestly it sounds like you just want it to work again, so my suggestion is to just leave it alone and bare with the prompt at boot up until you get your replacement sticks in. Then install them in the same manner you had them installed before and it should all return to normal. (Assuming your replacement ram is the same size, type, speed, and requires the same voltage to run.)

BTW, if you are building a new computer ever and are looking at ram. Not all ram runs at the same default voltage. I am using a set of Crucial Ballistix, 4 sticks at 1gb each. They run at around 2.2V which is nearing the upper limit for how much voltage ram can safely run on. So make sure you pay attention to all the statics if you ever buy a new different style or brand of ram.

My short answer is: don't worry about it.

[hl0m4n]

^ thanks man but this is for my other computer. both sticks are still in there and one day i turn on the computer and i get the prompt saying im running single channel. so one of my ram stick basically died on this computer right?

so i need to get my other computer's ram back from corsair before i can send this one back cause if i do this one i have no computer to use in the house lol.

[UltimateBMW]

Wow, 2 seperate computers had ram issues at the same time?

Please tell me your computers are plugged into a surge protector.

For the 2nd computer, that just randomly decided that it was only running on single channel. Do the same tests for how much ram it is detecting and compare that to how much you know it should be seeing. This will tell you with the most clarity if a stick of ram is burnt out or not. Another option is that you just moved the tower(physically) to a new location and that somehow you banged it or set it down hard and the ram jogged loose from its socket. I'll say I doubt this is the case, ram sockets are pretty snug, but it is possible. So you should check to make sure they are both plugged in all the way.

So to recap, check the POST for the ram count up, or check in device Manager to see how much the system is detecting to determine beyond any doubt if a stick has died. If the system recognizes all of the ram and you have a stick of ram installed in each channel then this is quite a wierd error.

How old is this 2nd computer we are talking about now?

[UltimateBMW]

Originally Posted by hl0m4n

well i mailed out the ram sticks to corsair today but now today my desktop is having problems now .

when i boot up i get a mobo message saying im in single channel ram (512mb vs. full 1gb) and i have to press f4 to confirm. shit so a ram stick in my desktop is busted too also corsair. corsair is like the best ram company why am i having problems? the ram in this computer has been in there for about 4+ years compared to just two on the other ones i just shipped to them.

I didn't think to ask, but was the first computer a laptop?

[hl0m4n]

Originally Posted by UltimateBMW

I didn't think to ask, but was the first computer a laptop?

both computers are desktops and they are both on surge protectors. the original problem PC, i mailed the corsair sticks to them for replacement so i believe that is settled for now until i get them.

now my desktop (3-4+ years) today when i turned it on i didn't get the prompt and when i check the device manager i have 1gb again LOL. if problems persist on this computer i will get another RMA with corsair for replacement but right now this computer ain't a biggie.

i will make an update when i get the ram sticks back from corsair. once again thanks for the help

[UltimateBMW]

Originally Posted by hl0m4n

both computers are desktops and they are both on surge protectors. the original problem PC, i mailed the corsair sticks to them for replacement so i believe that is settled for now until i get them.

now my desktop (3-4+ years) today when i turned it on i didn't get the prompt and when i check the device manager i have 1gb again LOL. if problems persist on this computer i will get another RMA with corsair for replacement but right now this computer ain't a biggie.

i will make an update when i get the ram sticks back from corsair. once again thanks for the help

That is quite odd. Maybe your ram really was sitting wierd in the slot and some jiggle fixed it. (This is VERY unlikely but all I can really think of.) Or maybe the motherboard is just getting old and some ram slots aren't holding up. Really tough to diagnose either of these though.

[hl0m4n]

lol yea it's funny to me also. if problems persist corsair has lifetime warranty so all i need to do is ship it back.

btw do you know what temperature a cpu normally operates? i have a koolance exos on my old desktop and when running non games its constantly at 80-100 (depending on winter/summer) and gaming its at 100-120 max (depending on winter/summer).

im asking about just a normal cpu with cooling fan. 150?

[UltimateBMW]

Originally Posted by hl0m4n

lol yea it's funny to me also. if problems persist corsair has lifetime warranty so all i need to do is ship it back.

btw do you know what temperature a cpu normally operates? i have a koolance exos on my old desktop and when running non games its constantly at 80-100 (depending on winter/summer) and gaming its at 100-120 max (depending on winter/summer).

im asking about just a normal cpu with cooling fan. 150?

Should be 30~ish C. Your fine. There is actually lot of information out there on this. Basically this is the very fundamentals of what overclocking is. Turning up the settings on a component until it's temperature gets out of the safety zone, or it becomes unstable and crashes. Whichever comes first. I suggest to learn a great deal more about this you visit some overclocking forums like www.extremeoverclocking.com or www.xtremesystems.org/

[MadDog]

Originally Posted by UltimateBMW

Should be 30~ish C. Your fine. There is actually lot of information out there on this. Basically this is the very fundamentals of what overclocking is. Turning up the settings on a component until it's temperature gets out of the safety zone, or it becomes unstable and crashes. Whichever comes first. I suggest to learn a great deal more about this you visit some overclocking forums like www.extremeoverclocking.com or www.xtremesystems.org/

30C is around 86F. That number doesn't seem right.....

[UltimateBMW]

This excerpt is for AMD processors. But its roughly applicable to all CPUs. Here is the source site.
http://forums.amd.com/forum/messagev...&enterthread=y

1. Safe and Error Free CPU Temps


AMD state the max operating temp for their XP CPUs is 85C. Some earlier CPUS were 90C, but only a few. Stick with 85C.

85C is the Internal Fry Temp. If the temperature inside the CPU goes above 85C you CPU is increasingly likely to die. Permanently.


Most motherboard CPU temp sensors report the Surface temp. The Surface Temp is typically around 10C lower than the Internal CPU Temp under Full Load conditions. So:

Internal Fry Temp = 85C
Surface Fry Temp = 75C


The Error Free Temp is not the same as the Fry Temp. It will vary from CPU to CPU, but typically it's 20C below the Fry Temp, i.e.

Interenal Error Free Temp = 65C
Surface Error Free Temp = 55C


If you overclock your machine the Error Free Temp falls - i.e. your CPU has to run cooler in order to remain stable.



2. Typical Running Temps

As most Mobos report the Surface CPU Temp, we'll stick with that from now on. This has the additional advantage that the CPU heatsink (near the base) is roughly the same temp as the CPU Surface temp, and it's possible to measure the Heatsink temp.


Actual Surface CPU Temps using a standard cooler are typically 30C above room temp on Idle and 40C above room temp on Full Load. You have to be doing something serious to get you CPU temp much above Idle - something that uses 100% CPU continuously. Rendering video, runing Prime95, and some games can do this.

That means that Surface CPU temps on a hot day - say 25C in your room - can get up to 55C, i.e. the typical Error Free Temp. That does not mean the PC will crash, of course; only that it might. Seems about right to me: standard machine, occasional crashes on hot days...

The standard cooler is not really designed for climates where romm temperature goes much over 25C for extended periods of time


With a "top of the range" air cooler the Surface CPU temps will be much lower - 18C over room temp at Idle, and 24C over room at Full Load. So even if room temp reaches 30C the Surface CPU temp is only 54C at Full Load.

This setup is sutable for a heavy duty or overclocked machine.

[UltimateBMW]

Here are some more credible sources.


http://www.computerbob.com/guides/guide_cpu_cooling.php

Cool The CPU

Once you have established a system for good airflow through the PC's case, it's time to maximize the cooling of your CPU. I've read that an AMD Athlon XP processor can be damaged if it ever runs hotter than 70 degrees Celsius (158 degrees Fahrenheit), but most people try to keep their CPU running much cooler, in the 30-50 degree range (86-122 degrees Fahrenheit). When it comes to shopping for an effective and efficient CPU cooler, there are many cooler manufacturers, and each one offers several different models, with online prices ranging from under $5 to about $150 or more (U.S.D). Some coolers are made of solid aluminum, some are made of solid copper, and others combine a copper core with aluminum fins. Some are even liquid cooled. Some have fast, noisy fans, while others have larger, slower, quieter fans. A few (like mine) have a manual control that lets you change the speed of the CPU cooling fan to get the right amount of cooling with the least amount of noise. Each model of CPU cooler is designed for a specific type of CPU (i.e. AMD Athlon XP) running in a specific range of speeds (i.e. up to 1700+). Be sure to buy a CPU cooler that is specifically designed for your specific CPU, or for an even faster version of your CPU than you have. If you're planning to overclock your CPU (force it to run at a faster speed than normal), then it's even more important that you buy a cooler that is capable of dissipating the extra heat that your overclocked CPU will generate. My CPU is a 2100+ but my CPU cooler is designed to cool any AMD Athlon XP CPU up to the 2800+ model. I think it is a very good value, because it cost me only $15 with free shipping, but it does a great job of cooling (see below). I found ExtremeTech and Tom's Hardware and Anandtech and Overclockers to be good sources of information on CPU coolers. Those sites are also good sources of information on all PC components and on building a PC -- plus, all 4 sites have very helpful and educational online support forums. The CPU manufacturers themselves (i.e. Intel, AMD, etc.) often publish a list of CPU coolers that they recommend for their specific CPUs -- you can't go wrong if you buy a manufacturer-recommended CPU cooler, unless you're going to overclock your CPU, in which case the recommended cooler may not be suitable for you. I bought my cooler -- and all the other components to build my PC) from NewEgg.com, a highly rated online store that lets you search for coolers by CPU type, manufacturer, price, etc., and has photos, descriptions, and buyers' comments about nearly every product it sells. NOTE: If your CPU's warrantee states that you must use its OEM-included CPU cooler, then you should keep the OEM cooler, in case you ever need to file a warrantee claim on your CPU.

This article is HUGE and very informative. (technical depending on how you look at it) Not the easiest read for some poeple, but here is the meat of the whole thing.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/22...perature-guide

Section 10: Results and Variables

Prime95 Small FFT`s should verify that Tcase to Tjunction Delta average is 5c. If temperatures do not meet the Parameters, then check the Test Setup and repeat Parts 1 and 2. Remember that Tcase and Tjunction tend to converge at Idle and diverge at Load due to Variables such as Vcore and CPU cooler efficiency. Low Vcore and clock may cause Tcase to Tjunction Delta average to indicate as low as 3c at Idle on an E2xxx, while a heavily overclocked Q6xxx with high Vcore may reach a Tcase to Tjunction Delta average of 7c at Load.

If temperatures are allowed to increase beyond Hot Scale, then ~ 5c below Tjunction Max Throttling is activated. If Core temperatures increase further to Tjunction Max, then Shutdown occurs. Since Tcase Max will be exceeded before Tjunction Max is reached, Tcase Max is always the limiting thermal specification.


It is not recommended to continually operate processors, overclocked or stock, at Hot Scale for reasons of stability and longevity.

The following Examples each represent typical overclocked systems, which have moderately high Vcore settings, yet still maintain Safe temperatures at 100% Workload. Note that Tcase to Tjunction Delta shows 7c at Load due to high Vcore. This is normal and expected, since 5c was Calibrated using a Test Setup standardized for maximum cooling capacity at stock Vcore, Frequency and Multiplier settings.

Example 1: Quad

Tcase = 26c Idle, 60c Load (SpeedFan: CPU or Temp x)
Tjunction average = 30c Idle, 67c Load (SpeedFan: Core x)

Ambient = 22c
Chipset = P35
CPU = Q6600
CPU Cooler= Xigmatek HDT-S1283
Frequency = 3.6 Ghz
Load = Prime95 - Small FFT`s - 10 minutes
Motherboard = Asus P5K Deluxe
Stepping = G0
Vcore Load = 1.45

Example 2: Duo

Tcase = 25c Idle, 60c Load (SpeedFan: CPU or Temp x)
Tjunction average Core = 29c Idle, 67c Load (SpeedFan: Core x)

Ambient = 22c
Chipset = P45
CPU = E8400
CPU Cooler= Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro
Frequency = 4.0 Ghz
Load = Prime95 - Small FFT`s - 10 minutes
Motherboard = Asus P5Q Deluxe
Stepping = C0
Vcore Load = 1.325

Idle to Load Delta will vary among systems due to inconsistencies such as Ambient temp, Vcore, clock frequencies, sensor linearity, CPU cooling, heat spreader and heat sinc flatness, thermal compound, computer case cooling, graphics card(s) cooling, and software processes. Excessive background processes running simultaneously may not allow low Idle temps. Low Vcore and stock clock may result in low Idle to Load Delta. High Vcore and overclock may exceed 25c Idle to Load Delta, as shown above.

Erroneous BIOS Calibrations from motherboard manufacturers, Factory Calibrations from Intel, and popular temperature monitoring utilities often result in Tcase and Tjunction inaccuracies. Since Intel's Thermal Diode spec is +/-1c, temperatures can still be quite accurate when SpeedFan is properly Calibrated, which should indicate Core temperatures that are within a few degrees of Real Temp 2.6.

[UncleWede]

On the second one that you haven't replaced teh RAM on, open it up, take out the RAM, blow out the sockets and the RAM (compressed air or just a good strong breath) then reseat and see. A dust bunny can short a contact. If the fan openings and such are really dirty, get a vacuum and suck teh case clean.

[UltimateBMW]

Originally Posted by UncleWede

On the second one that you haven't replaced teh RAM on, open it up, take out the RAM, blow out the sockets and the RAM (compressed air or just a good strong breath) then reseat and see. A dust bunny can short a contact. If the fan openings and such are really dirty, get a vacuum and suck teh case clean.

Good suggestion. Just be careful not to get any spit on the ram contacts if you use your mouth to blow.

[hl0m4n]

well i got replacement ram sticks back from corsair and tried to fit them in and what happens it doesn't fit. i looked up the model and find it is server memory . i am happy they sent me x2 1gb sticks (compared to my x5 512mb sticks) but they sent me http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...sd1024rlp-3200 (server memory) for my desktop. the gap on the ram sticks don't match up with the mobo gaps (the part that is open on the ram stick).

or maybe i am wrong and desktops can use server memory? but they don't fit. before i write an e-mail to corsair am i right?

[UltimateBMW]

Is the actual length of the sticks wrong? or is the slot just not fitting right. If the latter is the case, keep reading.

The slot in the contacts at the bottom is never right in the middle. This is done on purpose to make sure you put the ram in the right way. Did you try facing the ram the other way to plug it in? I'm pretty sure you did, but thats all I can really though of.

I'm not familiar with ram that is labelled as "server" specific. The picture from newegg.com looks like a normal stick of ram though. I'd say try to line up the slot and try once more.

[hl0m4n]

thanks for answering made another thread here: http://e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165716

to keep it short, i double checked the ram sticks and corsair def sent me the wrong ones right?

original: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145548
Type: 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM
Capacity 512MB
Speed DDR2 533 (PC2 4300)
Cas Latency 3
Timing 3-3-3-8
Voltage 1.8V
ECC No
Buffered/Registered Unbuffered
Heat Spreader Yes

Replacement: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...sd1024rlp-3200
Type 184-Pin DDR SDRAM
Capacity 1GB
Speed DDR 400 (PC 3200)
Cas Latency 3
Voltage 2.5V
ECC Yes
Buffered/Registered Registered
Heat Spreader No

[OC Guy]

Yes, they definitely sent you the wrong ones.

Check your other thread.

You don't want to mix ecc and non-ecc memory as well as it won't physically fit due to the # of pins.

[hl0m4n]

does the "PC" part matter? for example PC6400, PC3200, etc? if i need ram sticks for example ddr2 800 i can get ddr2 800 pc6400, pc3200, etc and they will all work?

also for these two ram sticks below can i put them in all 4 ram slots and they would all work in dual channel? the timing, latency, and voltage are different between the two.

current: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145454
want to add: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ir%20ddr%20500