[Mitchfin]

So I took my X5 in for an oil change and brake fluid yesterday. They called out I need a new control arm bushing soon and quoted me an insane amount for it so I said I’d shop it around. I get in my car this morning and suddenly I am getting tons of errors, the car won’t let me shift into drive because it thinks every door is open, when I start driving it’s giving me a chassis error code and it won’t auto lock when I walk away. Would the dealer have accidentally caused something it seems so strange that this is all happening out of nowhere.

Here’s the error codes:

[MotoWPK]

As they say, when a problem occurs, the first to thing to look at is what was last done.

Looking at the error code descriptions, it's possible they unplugged something and didn't fully plug it in so that a bit of time was needed for the connection to be lost and the errors to appear.

[AvGeek]

I'm guessing they unhooked a connector (or two) somewhere and didn't hook it back up. Would explain most of these errors as they are sensors and well, not connected at the moment.

[Mitchfin]

Originally Posted by BG X7

I'm guessing they unhooked a connector (or two) somewhere and didn't hook it back up. Would explain most of these errors as they are sensors and well, not connected at the moment.

That’s what I’m thinking, it’s literally never happened. And of course they’re saying they didn’t do anything and want to charge $230 to do the service.

[BlkGS]

Originally Posted by Mitchfin

That’s what I’m thinking, it’s literally never happened. And of course they’re saying they didn’t do anything and want to charge $230 to do the service.

That's called driving revenue right there.

[starlights]

Authorized dealer? Indie? or just run off the mill car dealership?

[Mitchfin]

Originally Posted by starlights

Authorized dealer? Indie? or just run off the mill car dealership?

BMW dealer

[davchr]

Originally Posted by Mitchfin

So I took my X5 in for an oil change and brake fluid yesterday. They called out I need a new control arm bushing soon and quoted me an insane amount for it so I said I’d shop it around. I get in my car this morning and suddenly I am getting tons of errors, the car won’t let me shift into drive because it thinks every door is open, when I start driving it’s giving me a chassis error code and it won’t auto lock when I walk away. Would the dealer have accidentally caused something it seems so strange that this is all happening out of nowhere.

Here’s the error codes:

I assume you drove it home so that kind of rules out them leaving something disconnected. There is no reason they should disconnect anything electrical for oil and brake fluid change.

How old is the battery? If it is old/original I would start by disconnecting it, charging it, connect it up again, and see what happens.

[jad03060]

A low 12vdc battery can cause numerous electrical 'problems' to show up that go away once the battery is recharged, or worst case, replaced. Course, it could be something else, but if you have a battery charger, try it. If you have a multimeter, check the battery voltage with the vehicle off.

[Mitchfin]

Originally Posted by davchr

I assume you drove it home so that kind of rules out them leaving something disconnected. There is no reason they should disconnect anything electrical for oil and brake fluid change.

How old is the battery? If it is old/original I would start by disconnecting it, charging it, connect it up again, and see what happens.

Originally Posted by jad03060

A low 12vdc battery can cause numerous electrical 'problems' to show up that go away once the battery is recharged, or worst case, replaced. Course, it could be something else, but if you have a battery charger, try it. If you have a multimeter, check the battery voltage with the vehicle off.

Yeah battery voltage was fine, problem seems to have just gone away for now. Will see if it comes back tomorrow

[SteVTEC]

This is 100% a "loose connector" and/or a bad ground or bad battery type of issue. Had something similar happen with my Suburban. Whatever it was was "reconnected" and issue went away.

[swainbmw]

Originally Posted by Mitchfin

BMW dealer

Definitely don’t go back. Let them fix anything.

[davchr]

Originally Posted by Mitchfin

Yeah battery voltage was fine, problem seems to have just gone away for now. Will see if it comes back tomorrow

How did you check the battery voltage? It needs to be done when the battery is under load. Like when starting the car. You need to put an oscilloscope on it and look for low transients that will screw up one of the many CPUs in the car on startup. DC steady state voltage does not tell you much.

If it is the original battery I would replace it. Five years is getting to where it will be a problem. That is a lot cheaper than the dealer's diagnostic.