[PNWM50I]

Originally Posted by elite-fusion

hey, any updates on your progress?

Same!

[yoandry]

Originally Posted by elite-fusion

hey, any updates on your progress?

I couldn't do it yet, got busy with my business. Getting them wrap first and hopefully I can install this weekend, and I need to take another time for KW install also, or do the easiest one first. lol.

[PNWM50I]

exciting stuff! Debating between downpipes and Dinan X pipe/Axleback (F95 system). Will wait to hear your results. I assume everything else on your exhaust system will be stock except the AA downpipes?

[yoandry]

Originally Posted by elite-fusion

hey, any updates on your progress?

Originally Posted by PNWM50I

exciting stuff! Debating between downpipes and Dinan X pipe/Axleback (F95 system). Will wait to hear your results. I assume everything else on your exhaust system will be stock except the AA downpipes?

I was able to tackle the DPs over the weekend, NOT That easy as I thought. I have resonator delete also on straight pipes.

[yoandry]

Ok, here is how it went on my install. Not that easy as I thought. I did better the H&R springs installation, so you have an idea.

So, here is the bad first

- You need to an extra pair of hands to take the dp out and in after all connections are lose. One from top and the other under.

- There is major flaw on these AA DPs on the second sensor location, that doesnt line up with the lower back oem heat shield hole. And i found out that after everything was pretty much installed. I was like wdf did I do wrong. So, my guess was that, either you bend, make new hole or dont install the heatshield. So I bend it as I had it bolt on already and it wasn't that easy. So if you want, you dont have to install it back but not sure about the negative effect if there is any. See pictures below. from 17 to 20 and last 2.
I contacted AA on this matter.

Picture 1- Remove the top part of the intake.
Picture 2- Remove the bottom part of the intake, no screws. just pull up.
Picture 3- Remove the 2 tops O2 sensors and top heat shield. There is 4 screes on each side and one in the middle. Only remove completely the last one on each side, the rest just lose them a bit. See also picture 16.
Picture 4- Remove the dp clamps and the 3 other bolts of a bracket that secure the dp. FYI, OEM DP has 3 options to secure them and AA only has 1. See picture 10.
Picture 5- Time to go under the car and remove everything that needs to be remove. remove the metal and plastic covers.
Picture 6 and 7 Remove the exhaust claps. Right side dp lower bracket has 4 screws to remove. Left side has only 2 nuts on a fix bracket. Pain in the ass to remove. On both side the is also 1 screw to remove the lower heat shield and undo the other side that just slide. Couldn't get a picture of it but you will notice.
Picture 7.1- Remove the 2 screws that hold the exhaust before the muffler. So it will be easy to remove the DP from the exhaust where the clamps are.
Picture 8- Now from the top need to remove that pain in the ass lower heat shield. It has 3 screws total, The one you just took from the bottom, a hidden one where the arrow is and one in the middle holding both sides. That last one is different one and it stays on the right side shield.
Picture 9- Now with that lower shield remove you have access to another secure bracket with 2 bolts that hold the dp. See picture 10 for reference.
Picture 11- In order to remove the dp, I had to remove the top plastic as the driver side didn't want to go. These are the part you may need another hand to guide it from underneath.
Picture 12 and 13. Finally remove. Time for a beer and rest.
Picture 14 and 15 Get new dp in. Need 2 people to guide again from underneath and slide in to exhaust a bit. Start with the turbo clamps, pain in the ass even with 2 people, lol. Make sure the driver side braket are in the fixed bolts but not tight. After clam are on but not that tight either, then do the bracket bolts underneath. You need 2 new bolts, nuts and washer for the passenger side that use the bracket as the OEM dp has the nuts fixed. Or find new nuts that work with the oem bolts. But it maybe difficult as they are short.
Now you decide if want to put the lower heat shield or not. If you do, then as you are underneath better put that screw on both sides.
Picture 16- You can see the lower heat shield on and top heat shield screws. At that time I didn't notice that the back OS sensor was covered already under the lower heat shield. Otherwise I would have made the bend or hole when off the car.
Picture 17-20 Put the top heat shield and and work with the sensors. for the driver back sensor has to pull the cable longer as it wont reach .Thanks god the cable is long enough and just needed to be lose a bit.

You can see in the last pic that the back O@ sensor on the AA dp is at the flex portion and the OEM is actually at the big fat part. Heck they don't line up with the shield holes.

Well that's it. oh wait a bonus video after install of the heat wrap burning like hell. lol

https://photos.app.goo.gl/69u32SLJZEzpGMgj6

Sorry if something is not perfectly written or misspelling.

[PNWM50I]

awesome amount of work put in! Chuckled when I saw the beer circled

Happy with the results?

[yoandry]

Originally Posted by PNWM50I

awesome amount of work put in! Chuckled when I saw the beer circled

Happy with the results?

Yeap. it feels more responsive now.

Also, quick question about the KW v3, which is my other project this weekend. So you used the default setting it came with it. Mine came with number 3 on the lower part not sure the top one, i will check. You mentioned on the thread that the drop is the second lowest settings, which how you know what is the second when to rise or drop you have to just thread the big nut. Is it one full turn. What's the inches right now from floor to fender on that drop? Thanks man.

[elite-fusion]

Originally Posted by yoandry

Ok, here is how it went on my install. Not that easy as I thought. I did better the H&R springs installation, so you have an idea.

So, here is the bad first

- You need to an extra pair of hands to take the dp out and in after all connections are lose. One from top and the other under.

- There is major flaw on these AA DPs on the second sensor location, that doesnt line up with the lower back oem heat shield hole. And i found out that after everything was pretty much installed. I was like wdf did I do wrong. So, my guess was that, either you bend, make new hole or dont install the heatshield. So I bend it as I had it bolt on already and it wasn't that easy. So if you want, you dont have to install it back but not sure about the negative effect if there is any. See pictures below. from 17 to 20 and last 2.
I contacted AA on this matter.

Picture 1- Remove the top part of the intake.
Picture 2- Remove the bottom part of the intake, no screws. just pull up.
Picture 3- Remove the 2 tops O2 sensors and top heat shield. There is 4 screes on each side and one in the middle. Only remove completely the last one on each side, the rest just lose them a bit. See also picture 16.
Picture 4- Remove the dp clamps and the 3 other bolts of a bracket that secure the dp. FYI, OEM DP has 3 options to secure them and AA only has 1. See picture 10.
Picture 5- Time to go under the car and remove everything that needs to be remove. remove the metal and plastic covers.
Picture 6 and 7 Remove the exhaust claps. Right side dp lower bracket has 4 screws to remove. Left side has only 2 nuts on a fix bracket. Pain in the ass to remove. On both side the is also 1 screw to remove the lower heat shield and undo the other side that just slide. Couldn't get a picture of it but you will notice.
Picture 7.1- Remove the 2 screws that hold the exhaust before the muffler. So it will be easy to remove the DP from the exhaust where the clamps are.
Picture 8- Now from the top need to remove that pain in the ass lower heat shield. It has 3 screws total, The one you just took from the bottom, a hidden one where the arrow is and one in the middle holding both sides. That last one is different one and it stays on the right side shield.
Picture 9- Now with that lower shield remove you have access to another secure bracket with 2 bolts that hold the dp. See picture 10 for reference.
Picture 11- In order to remove the dp, I had to remove the top plastic as the driver side didn't want to go. These are the part you may need another hand to guide it from underneath.
Picture 12 and 13. Finally remove. Time for a beer and rest.
Picture 14 and 15 Get new dp in. Need 2 people to guide again from underneath and slide in to exhaust a bit. Start with the turbo clamps, pain in the ass even with 2 people, lol. Make sure the driver side braket are in the fixed bolts but not tight. After clam are on but not that tight either, then do the bracket bolts underneath. You need 2 new bolts, nuts and washer for the passenger side that use the bracket as the OEM dp has the nuts fixed. Or find new nuts that work with the oem bolts. But it maybe difficult as they are short.
Now you decide if want to put the lower heat shield or not. If you do, then as you are underneath better put that screw on both sides.
Picture 16- You can see the lower heat shield on and top heat shield screws. At that time I didn't notice that the back OS sensor was covered already under the lower heat shield. Otherwise I would have made the bend or hole when off the car.
Picture 17-20 Put the top heat shield and and work with the sensors. for the driver back sensor has to pull the cable longer as it wont reach .Thanks god the cable is long enough and just needed to be lose a bit.

You can see in the last pic that the back O@ sensor on the AA dp is at the flex portion and the OEM is actually at the big fat part. Heck they don't line up with the shield holes.

Well that's it. oh wait a bonus video after install of the heat wrap burning like hell. lol

https://photos.app.goo.gl/69u32SLJZEzpGMgj6

Sorry if something is not perfectly written or misspelling.

This is awesome! Thanks for all the detailed pictures!
how long did it take you, roughly? I am in North FL and thinking of maybe taking this on in a few weeks, but I do not have an extra set of hands currently, so trying to see who I can use to help because install cost I was quoted like $800 which is nuts I think.

[yoandry]

Originally Posted by elite-fusion

This is awesome! Thanks for all the detailed pictures!
how long did it take you, roughly? I am in North FL and thinking of maybe taking this on in a few weeks, but I do not have an extra set of hands currently, so trying to see who I can use to help because install cost I was quoted like $800 which is nuts I think.

I stared removing everything on Friday from 5pm to 7pm. Then continue on Saturday from 3 to 8, partial installed already, Then finished on Sunday from 3 to 5. this taking pictures and getting out and in under the car every time i needed a damn tool i forgot lol. It Can be done by one person but more difficult and more time and It can be done im pretty sure in one day for sure. Im in Naples FL, if you want can drive down one Saturday and we can get it done on that day.

[elite-fusion]

Originally Posted by yoandry

I stared removing everything on Friday from 5pm to 7pm. Then continue on Saturday from 3 to 8, partial installed already, Then finished on Sunday from 3 to 5. this taking pictures and getting out and in under the car every time i needed a damn tool i forgot lol. It Can be done by one person but more difficult and more time and It can be done im pretty sure in one day for sure. Im in Naples FL, if you want can drive down one Saturday and we can get it done on that day.

ha
Well great work nonetheless!
I'm about 5.5 hours from Naples, so not sure if thats too feasible haha, but will definitely keep that in the back of my mind haha


By the way, any special tools required? Just want to get everything that I'd need ahead of time. I cant say I have a very heavy arsenal of tools, so I probably will need to purchase things for this job. Please let me know

[PNWM50I]

Originally Posted by elite-fusion

This is awesome! Thanks for all the detailed pictures!
how long did it take you, roughly? I am in North FL and thinking of maybe taking this on in a few weeks, but I do not have an extra set of hands currently, so trying to see who I can use to help because install cost I was quoted like $800 which is nuts I think.

I’m getting a $1200 quote ( Seattle, WA)

[yoandry]

Originally Posted by elite-fusion

ha
Well great work nonetheless!
I'm about 5.5 hours from Naples, so not sure if thats too feasible haha, but will definitely keep that in the back of my mind haha


By the way, any special tools required? Just want to get everything that I'd need ahead of time. I cant say I have a very heavy arsenal of tools, so I probably will need to purchase things for this job. Please let me know

yeah, long drive.
Besides the 22mm long socket for the O2 sensors, I would say the 8 or 10mm star type socket for the heat shield, don't remember now. Double check before buying, just remove the engine cover and you will see the type and size for those bolts holding the heat shield, its not the regular 5 point sockets. Everything else just the right adapters to fit in tight or long spaces.

[PNWM50I]

AA is catted. Any smell you’ve noticed? I‘ve read catless smell for obvious reasons and throw a CEL.

[PNWM50I]

Originally Posted by yoandry

Yeap. it feels more responsive now.

Also, quick question about the KW v3, which is my other project this weekend. So you used the default setting it came with it. Mine came with number 3 on the lower part not sure the top one, i will check. You mentioned on the thread that the drop is the second lowest settings, which how you know what is the second when to rise or drop you have to just thread the big nut. Is it one full turn. What's the inches right now from floor to fender on that drop? Thanks man.

I’ll check the measurements on my drop. I did not install it as I have too much on my plate these days. I asked for the second to lowest setting but KWs don’t have a metric for that (which is your question). He ended up “making it look good without setting them as low as possible. Dampening within default range for the height. Again, how he did that I’m not certain.

In other words, I’m of no help.

[PNWM50I]

29.5” up front and 30.85” rear. Slight staggered look which I like.

[yoandry]

Originally Posted by PNWM50I

AA is catted. Any smell you’ve noticed? I‘ve read catless smell for obvious reasons and throw a CEL.

No smell whatsoever. Thanks for the measurements. Will tackle the suspension this weekend and play with settings.

[gx5_027]

Originally Posted by yoandry

No smell whatsoever. Thanks for the measurements. Will tackle the suspension this weekend and play with settings.

yoandry I remember reading your posts back in the day on the 3/4 series forums when I was more active there. Hope you're well!

[gx5_027]

freezerdoctor thanks for doing this and posting about your experience!

Do you have any video clips? Or can I message you to connect for some clips?

Here’s what I captured from your notes:

• Minimize how many things you disassemble during the process; only loosen the airbox (this provides enough wiggle room for your arm through to the turbo clamp).
• Remove the chassis stiffener plate – there are about 10-12 bolts and this is the most helpful part as it provides full access to the exhaust system. Ensure to re-torque to proper spec when you putting it back on.
• Use ramps (and raise to highest setting with air ride).
• Get a friend to help (you didn't mention that, but I would - makes it fun).

Any feedback/advice outside of that?

It took you about 4 hours, but that time included reading the instructions – but would probably take about 2-2.5 hours of actual work if doing again. So someone could realistically budget 3 hours total, max.

If you could go back in time, would you do it again yourself? Or pay a shop?
Would you say, a shop should charge no longer than 1-hour?

Would you do a flash-tune?
There are some features that are fun to play around with - cold-start delete, start-up roar, and customizing exhaust settings to liking (not a fan of burbles myself, but you have the ability to play around with settings).

[freezerdoctor]

Originally Posted by f32_027

freezerdoctor thanks for doing this and posting about your experience!

Do you have any video clips? Or can I message you to connect for some clips?

Here’s what I captured from your notes:

• Minimize how many things you disassemble during the process; only loosen the airbox (this provides enough wiggle room for your arm through to the turbo clamp).
• Remove the chassis stiffener plate – there are about 10-12 bolts and this is the most helpful part as it provides full access to the exhaust system. Ensure to re-torque to proper spec when you putting it back on.
• Use ramps (and raise to highest setting with air ride).
• Get a friend to help (you didn't mention that, but I would - makes it fun).

Any feedback/advice outside of that?

It took you about 4 hours, but that time included reading the instructions – but would probably take about 2-2.5 hours of actual work if doing again. So someone could realistically budget 3 hours total, max.

If you could go back in time, would you do it again yourself? Or pay a shop?
Would you say, a shop should charge no longer than 1-hour?

Would you do a flash-tune?
There are some features that are fun to play around with - cold-start delete, start-up roar, and customizing exhaust settings to liking (not a fan of burbles myself, but you have the ability to play around with settings).

Hey F32,

I have a before video, and have not yet recorded a post-install video. I will try to get that done next week (currently working on installing MSS kit this weekend).

I would definitely do the downpipes again myself if needed, I got a quote from a local independent, BMW focused service center, and they wanted $900 to install the pipe. That seemed nuts, so I decided to do it myself at that point. (same company gave me a quote of $2200 for the MSS install!!??)

I think 3 hours would be a good target to budget for, but allow more if it is your first time. I still think a shop would charge a minimum of 2 hours, simply because I think it would take them slightly over an hour (maybe), and they would round to the next hour. Just my thoughts on it.

I do have a piggyback tune from Carbon, and when/if they come out with their ECU flash tune, I would do that also.

I also have the bimmertech app to adjust settings on my own and tinker with settings a little.

I'll let you know when I get the clips uploaded.

[gx5_027]

Originally Posted by freezerdoctor

Hey F32,

I have a before video, and have not yet recorded a post-install video. I will try to get that done next week (currently working on installing MSS kit this weekend).

I would definitely do the downpipes again myself if needed, I got a quote from a local independent, BMW focused service center, and they wanted $900 to install the pipe. That seemed nuts, so I decided to do it myself at that point. (same company gave me a quote of $2200 for the MSS install!!??)

I think 3 hours would be a good target to budget for, but allow more if it is your first time. I still think a shop would charge a minimum of 2 hours, simply because I think it would take them slightly over an hour (maybe), and they would round to the next hour. Just my thoughts on it.

I do have a piggyback tune from Carbon, and when/if they come out with their ECU flash tune, I would do that also.

I also have the bimmertech app to adjust settings on my own and tinker with settings a little.

I'll let you know when I get the clips uploaded.

For the o2 sensor removal and retightening - did you use that special tool in the video? freezerdoctor

[freezerdoctor]

f32_027

No, I simply used a standard box wrench. Was pretty easy to remove.

[gx5_027]

Originally Posted by freezerdoctor

f32_027

No, I simply used a standard box wrench. Was pretty easy to remove.

freezerdoctor
Looking forward to the videos!
Based on the sound in sport when driving - would you entertain the idea of a resonator delete? or no - would be too loud.