[Tenac]

Originally Posted by HZX540e

If someone told me about this I wouldn't believe them. As you know the flaps on my FI exhaust are always open (I took the plug out after they were opened). When I press the exhaust button (in the car next to the shifter) to the off position the car does NOT pop on up shifts. When I press it to the on position (green light on) the car pops like crazy on up shifts. You hear it in the videos I posted. The crazy thing is that I thought this button controlled the flaps and active sound. Well the flaps are always open on mine, so the button must be doing something to make the car pop so loud (no the sound is not from inside the car, see the video).

I learned something new today.

Funny you caught this as well. I have a local performance shop digging into it. So far the thought is just like programming the exhaust burble out of the newer cars from BMW this puts some back in.... Only issue is to confirm that we would need to crack a bench tune which no one local here will. So by pressing that button on we are basically enabling a medium setting in the ECU.

[HZX540e]

I discovered it by accident, I wanted to hear what it would sound like without active sound and I noticed that the up shifts pops were completely gone. Pressed the button and it was a different car all together. It must be ECU drive, interesting to see what it actually is.

[HZX540e]

I will post detailed instructions and videos. For now I installed the FI Exhaust secondary down pipes and cat delete. Leave it up to BMW stupidity to put bolts in places impossible to reach. Took about 8 hours with simple metric tools, and the level of difficulty is about 6 out of 10 for a handy person, I think a pro can complete this job in 4-6 hours.

[HZX540e]

I have looked everywhere but could not find instructions for replacing the secondary downpipes on F95. Many thanks for Ben from RGSports for insight and tips. It goes without saying, if you are a motor head like me Invest in a quality metric tool set, sockets, torx…. Etc. having an impact drill and torque wrench will come in handy for the exhaust removal part. A safe and secure way to lift the car is a must. Below is the step by step process with pictures. It helps a lot if you remove the entire exhaust you need the room.
1. In the engine bay, all the way in the back.Remove the wire brace, 2 torx screws on the side and one nut holding a reservoir. This is tricky because the passenger side one is under a wire then unclip the wire from the sides and use a flat head screw driver to remove the middle piece (image courtesy of dpie)

2. Use a ratcheting wrench to remove the downpipe screws (image courtesy of dpie). They are facing the heat shield on the firewall. Do not drop the wrench! Once the screw is all the way loose, use a flat head screw driver to pry open the clamp

3. Under the car: Remove a what appears to be a useless square metal piece under the transmission. It is held by plastic nuts on the sides and two metal screws to the underbelly

4. Remove the 2 11mm nuts holding the downpipe to the side of the engine. Use an extension bar along with swivel joint head that's the only way to get to these nuts

5. Now that the down pipes are free to slide out, mark them L/R as they're not identical

6. Match your new downpipe to to the ones you removed to know which one goes on the right or the left

7. If your new downpipes didn't come with the gaskets. Carefully remove the only one to the new set (thanks Ben RGSport)

8. Slide the new downpipes into place, put the clamp on the downpipe before sliding it back into position

9. Align the downpipes to the 2 screws protruding from the engine and place the nuts without tightening

10. Align the secondary downpipes to the primary downpipes

11. Now move back to the top of the engine. This trick alone is worth a lot of money. Position the clamp so that the primary and secondary downpipes are perfectly aligned then get a zip tie to pull the clamp ends closer to each other. Thread the clamp screw back on and tighten it back in place

12. Slide back under the car and tighten the 2 screws holding the down pipes to the engine

13. Slide the exhaust back on

14. Reverse steps 1, 2 and 3

[dpie]

Originally Posted by HZX540e

I have looked everywhere but could not find instructions for replacing the secondary downpipes on F95. Many thanks for Ben from RGSports for insight and tips. It goes without saying, if you are a motor head like me Invest in a quality metric tool set, sockets, torx…. Etc. having an impact drill and torque wrench will come in handy for the exhaust removal part. A safe and secure way to lift the car is a must. Below is the step by step process with pictures. It helps a lot if you remove the entire exhaust you need the room.
1. In the engine bay, all the way in the back.Remove the wire brace, 2 torx screws on the side and one nut holding a reservoir. This is tricky because the passenger side one is under a wire then unclip the wire from the sides and use a flat head screw driver to remove the middle piece (image courtesy of dpie)

2. Use a ratcheting wrench to remove the downpipe screws (image courtesy of dpie). They are facing the heat shield on the firewall. Do not drop the wrench! Once the screw is all the way loose, use a flat head screw driver to pry open the clamp

3. Under the car: Remove a what appears to be a useless square metal piece under the transmission. It is held by plastic nuts on the sides and two metal screws to the underbelly

4. Remove the 2 11mm nuts holding the downpipe to the side of the engine. Use an extension bar along with swivel joint head that's the only way to get to these nuts

5. Now that the down pipes are free to slide out, mark them L/R as they're not identical

6. Match your new downpipe to to the ones you removed to know which one goes on the right or the left

7. If your new downpipes didn't come with the gaskets. Carefully remove the only one to the new set (thanks Ben RGSport)

8. Slide the new downpipes into place, put the clamp on the downpipe before sliding it back into position

9. Align the downpipes to the 2 screws protruding from the engine and place the nuts without tightening

10. Align the secondary downpipes to the primary downpipes

11. Now move back to the top of the engine. This trick alone is worth a lot of money. Position the clamp so that the primary and secondary downpipes are perfectly aligned then get a zip tie to pull the clamp ends closer to each other. Thread the clamp screw back on and tighten it back in place

12. Slide back under the car and tighten the 2 screws holding the down pipes to the engine

13. Slide the exhaust back on

14. Reverse steps 1, 2 and 3

Nice write up! Glad you were able to tackle it.

[HZX540e]

I received the FI Secondary Down Pipes (cat delete) and installed them on my F95 (see instructions above). Other than a glitch that I am still working with Chris Kuo, things were pretty smooth. The sound quality and loudness is day and night from stock exhaust and noticeable improvement from just that catback system. I recommend setting the full down pipes and exhaust system to unlock the full potential of this beast. As you know I have the flaps forced open all the time, I am tempted to reconnect them to control closing them especially for late night pull into the neighborhood. I have some videos and sound clips, waiting to resolve the issue with Chris from Fi Exhuast before I upload the videos.

If anyone in the DC DMV area has APK or just down pipes I would like to meet to compare the FI System to others.

[hybrid_eg]

Originally Posted by HZX540e

I discovered it by accident, I wanted to hear what it would sound like without active sound and I noticed that the up shifts pops were completely gone. Pressed the button and it was a different car all together. It must be ECU drive, interesting to see what it actually is.

that definitely sounds like its tied to burble mapping or what not but a very tame one.. someone on this forum told me that ASD is integrated into the amp on F95/96 chassis unlike on F85 where you could simply unplug the connector.. so that's disappointing.. those with aftermarket exhaust systems will have to put up with ASD until coding is available at which time likely it can be coded off while retaining same pop's on upshifts.. (or more pops/bangs for those who desire).

[HZX540e]

Sorry about the delay in posting the videos. Enjoy the sound, turn the volume up to feel the joy of unleashing this beats.

Setup for these videos. Secondary cat delete with FI Exhaust Down Pipes and exhaust Cat Back system (flaps forced open all the time).

https://youtube.com/shorts/1LFF3BkUvvY?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/SdguKvJiLD0?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/cqqteHYtEsg?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/-sIo4FA_-Qc?feature=share


P.S. Recorded in a private parking lot with permission.

[zjaiz]

Originally Posted by HZX540e

Sorry about the delay in posting the videos. Enjoy the sound, turn the volume up to feel the joy of unleashing this beats.

Setup for these videos. Secondary cat delete with FI Exhaust Down Pipes and exhaust Cat Back system (flaps forced open all the time).

https://youtube.com/shorts/1LFF3BkUvvY?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/SdguKvJiLD0?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/cqqteHYtEsg?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/-sIo4FA_-Qc?feature=share


P.S. Recorded in a private parking lot with permission.

sounds amazing .. guess this is gonna be my next move

[hybrid_eg]

sounds great!! reminds me of my screaming remus F90 exhaust..

[bellabimmer]

those bangs in gearshift do they happen just with exhaust upgrade or secondary downpipe is a must can somebody tell me ?

I have X5M EU version so soon I will install exhaust without OPF so I am interested to know this info.

[HZX540e]

Originally Posted by bellabimmer

those bangs in gearshift do they happen just with exhaust upgrade or secondary downpipe is a must can somebody tell me ?

I have X5M EU version so soon I will install exhaust without OPF so I am interested to know this info.

Remember I installed the catback exhaust system and used it for 3-4 weeks before adding the catless secondary downpipes. Your hear the pops on up shifts WITHOUT the downpipes, but with the downpipes they become way more prominent, much louder and crisper (if that makes any sense).

[ed4]

Originally Posted by HZX540e

Remember I installed the catback exhaust system and used it for 3-4 weeks before adding the catless secondary downpipes. Your hear the pops on up shifts WITHOUT the downpipes, but with the downpipes they become way more prominent, much louder and crisper (if that makes any sense).

… sharper and louder burps and snaps!

[HZX540e]

The FI Exhaust with forced open flaps made me realize I'm not 17 anymore. The dealer pulled up driving my car right after a cold start, although the sound was amazing I couldn't see myself leaving a business meeting like this. So, I reconnected the flaps wires again. The car can drive in well behaved adult mode. And with a push of a button (or even just pressing the gas hard) the beast wakes up and the roaring begins. I love having this option, so it's not loud all the time but can be when you want it.

[DeeM3]

Did you get a CEL with the secondary down pipes?

[HZX540e]

Originally Posted by DeeX3M

Did you get a CEL with the secondary down pipes?

No, and I shouldn't because in the US the second cats are NOT monitored

[DeeM3]

Originally Posted by HZX540e

No, and I shouldn't because in the US the second cats are NOT monitored

Thank you, sir! Inspiration for my next setup.

[ed4]

Originally Posted by DeeX3M

Thank you, sir! Inspiration for my next setup.

Fantastic inspiration 👊

[HZX540e]

Originally Posted by DeeX3M

Thank you, sir! Inspiration for my next setup.

You won't regret it.

[mokest03]

Sticks out way too far.

[HZX540e]

Originally Posted by mokest03

Sticks out way too far.

I agree, they've been readjusted a while back. I need to upload new photos.

[RyanBMW]

Not impress!