[sarmadraed]

Originally Posted by boneca

as promised some pictures:

1-2 photos - 14" zip ties installed on driver's side (passenger side broke next day after I made previous post)

3 photo - the plastic bars which aluminium bar screws into

4 photo - the 30" zip ties I received are much thicker (heavy duty) and I had to make holes wider

5 picture, the motor (shutters closed)

6-7 photos - new 30" heavy duty zip ties installed, in testing stage, had some errors right after install (blockage when the ambient temperature is warm), cleared it, haven't seeing it since.

Will update in couple of days.

appreciate

[TOMMYX12]

Had to fill in where that wheel turns and runs the test to prevent it from turning 360 just enough to pretend to the car that it's still in place and opening and closing for that motor wheel. Plastic Weld from Amazon. Been holding for 2 years now. No worries about zip ties.

[Dasky_spas]

Originally Posted by TOMMYX12

Had to fill in where that wheel turns and runs the test to prevent it from turning 360 just enough to pretend to the car that it's still in place and opening and closing for that motor wheel. Plastic Weld from Amazon. Been holding for 2 years now. No worries about zip ties.

Can you elaborate on this and post more pics? I did a front end conversion and have like 8 codes wth temp showing -40 too. I'm sure most of it is due to this motor. While the motor is still plugged in, the arms are flaps/bars are removed.

[Dasky_spas]

Originally Posted by TOMMYX12

Had to fill in where that wheel turns and runs the test to prevent it from turning 360 just enough to pretend to the car that it's still in place and opening and closing for that motor wheel. Plastic Weld from Amazon. Been holding for 2 years now. No worries about zip ties.

So the arms were totally removed and that attachment point was filled in with putty or some type of fill. I'm sure silicone would also work.

[TOMMYX12]

Correct. No silicone would not work. Too soft and plyable. Needs to be a hard stop not to pass a certain point. It needed to be so precise that i used small pieces of paper towel folded up and if it didn’t work I would give it another fold to make it thicker. Once I got to the point where it stopped tripping the sensor I took that rough thickness of the paper towel piece and filled in with the plasti weld. If it were too much I would have to use a file to bring it back down to the specific point.

[TOMMYX12]

Originally Posted by Dasky_spas

Can you elaborate on this and post more pics? I did a front end conversion and have like 8 codes wth temp showing -40 too. I'm sure most of it is due to this motor. While the motor is still plugged in, the arms are flaps/bars are removed.

With doing what I said I got no other error codes or sensors. If you did a conversion there might be something else going on.

[Dasky_spas]

Originally Posted by TOMMYX12

With doing what I said I got no other error codes or sensors. If you did a conversion there might be something else going on.

Do you happen to have other photos of what you did?

[TOMMYX12]

Originally Posted by Dasky_spas

Do you happen to have other photos of what you did?

No that’s all. Just did that to what you see with the plasti weld and removed the flaps. Put the motor back into position with the upper and lower set point wheel on the motor servo and replaced. Now it spins as if the flaps are still in place when it hits those set points on the filler

[TOMMYX12]

Originally Posted by Dasky_spas

Do you happen to have other photos of what you did?

There’s no other way to trick the system. I spent about 2 months trying every angle. Programming wasn’t the answer. Esp everything runs through the DME and that locks after the first 100 miles so there’s no way to even program that to trick it with any coding on that end. This is why whatever u code won’t work cause it’s being overridden by the locked out DME.

[yoandry]

Originally Posted by TOMMYX12

Had to fill in where that wheel turns and runs the test to prevent it from turning 360 just enough to pretend to the car that it's still in place and opening and closing for that motor wheel. Plastic Weld from Amazon. Been holding for 2 years now. No worries about zip ties.

MMM Im tempting but not sure If i want to go back agin and try your method. I still dont get or remeber where is that part in your picture. AND the filler is all that white right?

Per the the first picture below, is the part highlighter in yellow are you talking about right? Where the arms sit in the bumper side.

I want to see my cross bar all the time. lol

[TOMMYX12]

It’s in the middle under the motor for the flaps when you remove it. Yes it’s whitish/grayish in color. When I brought my car in for service the tech said that was the best thought out mod for something like that he’s ever seen. Your preference if you want to keep playing with zip ties or make it permanent.

[yoandry]

Originally Posted by TOMMYX12

It’s in the middle under the motor for the flaps when you remove it. Yes it’s whitish/grayish in color. When I brought my car in for service the tech said that was the best thought out mod for something like that he’s ever seen. Your preference if you want to keep playing with zip ties or make it permanent.

I just updated my post. Can you let me know if it there. Thanks

[TOMMYX12]

Yep right there. That’s it

[yoandry]

Originally Posted by TOMMYX12

Yep right there. That’s it

Perfect,
Now thats a little tricky location to work on with the bumper on. Did you remove yours?

[SoFLo_X5]

So I think I've read almost every post in here, but I'm wondering why do this at all? It's not merely asthetic I'm sure.

[TOMMYX12]

Originally Posted by yoandry

Perfect,
Now thats a little tricky location to work on with the bumper on. Did you remove yours?

Nope. Just worked behind it and used a mirror to see what I was doing.

[TOMMYX12]

Originally Posted by SoFLo_X5

So I think I've read almost every post in here, but I'm wondering why do this at all? It's not merely asthetic I'm sure.

I needed more airflow as well.

[Dasky_spas]

Originally Posted by TOMMYX12

I needed more airflow as well.

I also noticed the fan would stay on for shorter periods and coolant temps are better. You vff check for yourself if you take out the grille. Use the secret menu by holding down the mileage button and unlock the secret screen to see coolant and oil temps.

[yoandry]

Originally Posted by Dasky_spas

I also noticed the fan would stay on for shorter periods and coolant temps are better. You vff check for yourself if you take out the grille. Use the secret menu by holding down the mileage button and unlock the secret screen to see coolant and oil temps.

Where is the mileage button? The BC button?

[yoandry]

Originally Posted by SoFLo_X5

So I think I've read almost every post in here, but I'm wondering why do this at all? It's not merely asthetic I'm sure.

I could tell you a bounch of reason why to do it.
1- Better airflow
2- Better looking
3- Better washing
4- Because I can and want too, lol
5- Because enthusiastic

This is just to save some mpg, but again this is a v8. if was the 45e i totally get it.

[Dasky_spas]

Originally Posted by yoandry

Where is the mileage button? The BC button?

Correct. Hold it for like 30 seconds. You'll only use the bc button. Next screen you'll press the bc again to scroll down to unlock. Then add up the last 5 if your vin, press the bc button as many times as needed then to enter hold bc until the next screen. Then scroll down to temperature and hold bc. You'll then have the temps

[cobramite]

"Active shutters", more EPA weasel BS like the damn ASS crap. Why can't they give the vast majority of us who aren't drinking the Kool Aide a simple way to defeat this stupid junk.