05-26-2020, 06:01 PM | #45 |
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If it helps my plug was wrapped with a nearby loom, I had to use a knife to carefully cut away the sheathing to free it up, I pulled it down and trapped it outside the panel so that in future when I connect my wiring harness I don't need to remove the panel each time.
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05-26-2020, 07:00 PM | #46 |
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05-28-2020, 05:21 PM | #47 |
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Well, it turns out the maximum tongue weight capacity is a mere 551 pounds. Thats woefully shy of being safe for towing 7,200. The death wobble would certainly appear. The tow package is useless other than the wiring. Didn't the F generations have a 600 max tongue weight?
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05-28-2020, 09:44 PM | #48 |
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Where did you see that? I understand the capacity is 7,200 lbs with the factory tow package or 6,603 lbs with aftermarket hitches, with a 600 lb tongue weight capacity in either case. You have to weigh your car to calculate its payload capacity, which as you likely know is another important factor in towing capability. My experience is that X5s have a payload capacity on their yellow sticker of 849-871 lbs, depending on trim level, which represents the minimum payload possible for a given trim level with an additional safety factor. My X5 50i has 871 lbs on the sticker but I found it is actually 1,220 lbs after visiting a truck scale.
P.s. on the different towing capacities, I don't believe there is any difference in equipment that causes this - part numbers are the same for brakes, axles, etc. - so my hypothesis is that the higher towing capacity requires the BMW tow controller and not-yet-available wiring harness to support active stability control. P.p.s. Stealth Hitch describes the G05's towing capacity as 7,700 lbs (in line with its European rating of 3500 kg) and the capacity of their hitch as 8,000 lbs. I always used my Stealth Hitch-equipped E70 X5 50i as if it had a 7,700 lb rating and never had a problem.
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05-29-2020, 08:27 AM | #49 | |
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Page 405-406 of the owners manual. 7,200 pounds, 551 max tongue weight - regardless of engine/drivetrain; requires tow package. To get max payload, you need the air suspension. Tow package doesn't impact payload.
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05-29-2020, 03:11 PM | #50 | |
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You are right that the "trailer nose weight" is rated at 250 kg (550 lbs) despite many BMW dealer and third party websites saying 600 lbs. There is variation in specs like payload across the yellow stickers, the printout below, the bmw.de site, etc. It's kind of a mess for people who tow. I thought carefully about this before buying my G05, including weighing the vehicle on a truck scale to validate payload before closing the deal. My conclusion was that BMW doesn't make this easy for us but the G05 can be a capable tow vehicle relative to vehicles in its class. I'm going to follow the European ratings as I always have and drive like a European (meaning, keep it 65 MPH or less while towing). Here are the tech specs:
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06-05-2020, 06:41 PM | #51 |
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Has anyone got a reply from BWM on this brake controller? I see there is a lot of conversion options which doesn't explain how a company can sell a class 3 hitch without a vialble brake controller. I have a 2019 x5 4.0 litre looking to tow a 5000 lbs GVWR Airstream. Thanks
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06-06-2020, 12:26 PM | #52 |
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Ryan, where did you mount the controller and would you mind advising what is the correct order of the wires?
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06-06-2020, 12:36 PM | #53 |
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Hey I'm also curious where others have mounted their brake controllers? Under the steering column or on the centre console? Or somewhere different?
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06-07-2020, 08:38 PM | #54 |
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Just wanted to add some information on my install. The brake controller I double side taped to a flat surface above the pedals and cover on the drivers side.
The pin out of the connection is as follows: Brown = Ground Blue = To trailers brakes Red w/stripe = +12v battery Black w/stripe = 12v brake light trigger (this is a smaller wire) hard to see in picture Essentially how your controller works, is it is powered by the red (+) and brown (-) wires. When the controller sees the brake light trigger, then it applies power through the blue wire to the trailer light connector. This is the model i'm using. I routed the little knob controller, to the storage compartment next to the drivers left knee. https://redarcelectronics.com/produc...ake-controller |
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06-09-2020, 08:59 AM | #55 |
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I found someone selling the plug and uncrimped terminals on eBay in Germany. He wouldn't ship to the US, so I had them shipped to a friend in Germany who will in turn send them to me in the USA.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Reparatursa...72.m2749.l2649 |
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06-09-2020, 12:22 PM | #56 | |
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06-10-2020, 04:16 PM | #58 |
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found the connector
hey guys... great thread to solve the brake controller under dash wiring. thanks. Here I found the connector:
https://nexelec.com/VARI-18288201/ There's a minimum of 20 pcs, but they are $0.65ea. Now I just need to find the part number for the pins. Anybody knows? |
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06-13-2020, 08:25 AM | #59 | |
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You can't get the uncrimped terminals in the US. You have to order the very thin green wires which already have the crimped terminals. they are like 16ga. The power, ground and trailer brake output wires of the controller carry significant current and I would rather keep the wire thickness consistent. |
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08-24-2020, 12:58 PM | #61 |
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I also purchased the Tekonsha P3 since I wanted to be able to use in multiple vehicles for the rarity that I use a trailer brake controller. The P3 came with a wiring harness that just needs to have ends put on the one side. The brake controller is fine, but the way the mounting brackets go together is stupid and it's bulky with no ideal place to mount it. The Redarc appears to be a more discreet and has flexible mounting.
I purchased the plug (part number 99965275840) and four of the circular contact pins (part number 61131376193) from ecstuning.com. I didn't want to splice wires by using the pins with the pre-assembled green wires that others have mentioned. After crimping, I soldered the wires to be sure of a tight fit. Be sure to remove the extra flashing at the top of the pins so that there is no metal protruding from the connector. I also purchased 1/2 inch PET Expandable Braided Sleeving from Amazon combined with heat shrink tubing I already owned. Last edited by ImportA340; 09-12-2020 at 02:29 PM.. |
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09-06-2020, 12:01 PM | #63 |
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Thanks, I didn't even think of that. The wires are pushed all the way in. It is the flashing from the production process that is sticking out. I thought I would leave it on the wires for extra support, but I can see I should have taken it off....
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09-23-2020, 07:35 AM | #64 | |
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09-23-2020, 07:52 AM | #65 |
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I've used it a dozen times now. I think it works great. It's a bit unconventional compared to the slider ones all the american vehicles have, but it works the same. I would buy another just like it if needed. It's a lot smaller then anything else out there and I don't want to trust a wireless one or a smartphone app.
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11-05-2020, 07:44 PM | #66 |
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These posts have been gold when trying to install a hard wired brake controller. I was successful and went for my first tow this afternoon.
I picked up my 2021 X3 M40i on October 24 and started searching for the pins and the socket. It wasn’t easy, but I ended up using the Porsche socket, which is identical to the Bmw’s, pins from ecstuning.com and the pin socket from autoatlanta.com. I used a tekonsha prodigy p3 and mounted it in the cubby hole to the left of the steering wheel. I open the door when I’m towing and close it when not, it disappears. I thought there would be an issue with reaching the lever, but there is plenty of room to insert your hand and activate the lever with your thumb. I will try and post some pics. Thanks to everyone who posted as this would have been a very difficult build without the posts |
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