[beattiecj]

Originally Posted by pixelate

I bought the trailer used so I don't know for certain but I believe it's a standard Trailex toolbox that is pretty common. There's one on each side.

Checking ... on the Trailex site, it must be this one:
https://www.trailex.com/products/pc/...-18-D-p209.htm

Thank you!

[Gene Horr]

Originally Posted by pixelate

... the trailer is under 900 lbs ...

What is the brand/model? That's pretty light.

[Dandle]

Here's my towing setup. The caravan is 1900kg and the car is loaded with the awning and extensions. It's very stable and makes and excellent combo.

[pixelate]

Originally Posted by Gene Horr

What is the brand/model? That's pretty light.

It's a Trailex, I believe a 7551. Just now I went to their web site to check the specs, and the weight is not listed. However, they have some (old?) brochure PDFs as well, and on one of them it shows it at 1205 lbs. So perhaps that is accurate, though I am sure in the past I learned it to be ~900 but cannot be sure where that number came from or if it's reliable now that I read the above. (I imagine every option also adds onto the listed weight ... toolboxes, rock shield, tire rack, spare tire, manual winch...)

[GSM2]

Originally Posted by pixelate

First time towing with the new car. Race day at Laguna Seca. The tow hitch mode backup camera is great for lining up the hitch -- much better than what I had on the 2018 Audi Q7. I also liked how it recognized that the trailer was hooked up and adjusted other displays and modes. I briefly checked out the trailer backup assist mode (using the dial to steer) but didn't find it immediately helpful, so I backed in the old-fashioned way.

When I started the car leaving the track at the end of the day, it gave me a dash warning about a problem with the trailer lights; the left turn signal did not work and had a fast tick sound in dash, not the normal signal tick. I unplugged and re-plugged the 7-pin connector, noticing that it felt a lot looser than I am used to. The problem went away but I will look at that, because it feels like the connector wiggles too easily, which was not the case with the Q7.

Anyway, it tows very nicely and maneuvers easily (of course this is a small and light tow, the trailer is under 900 lbs and the car is about 2500 lbs).

I get the same error code (left trailer turn light) and ticking sound on my e70 when I plug in my newer Trailex. I believe a part of the issue is that the LED lights in the trailer pull so little electricity that it trips the BMW computer into thinking the bulb is burned out. I resolve it by stepping on the brake and turning on the left turn signal; after about 10 seconds the warning goes away and the pulse of the turn signal is back to normal.

[jad03060]

I've not seen a minimum wattage (I'm sure one exists, and it may be worthwhile adding a load resistor if you keep getting faults), but the user's manual does list some maximum wattages that are supported:
▷ Turn signals/brake lights: 54 watts per side.
▷ Rear lights: 100 watts in total.
▷ Backup light: 54 watts in total.

[rundeyvoo]

Originally Posted by pixelate

First time towing with the new car. Race day at Laguna Seca. The tow hitch mode backup camera is great for lining up the hitch -- much better than what I had on the 2018 Audi Q7. I also liked how it recognized that the trailer was hooked up and adjusted other displays and modes. I briefly checked out the trailer backup assist mode (using the dial to steer) but didn't find it immediately helpful, so I backed in the old-fashioned way.

When I started the car leaving the track at the end of the day, it gave me a dash warning about a problem with the trailer lights; the left turn signal did not work and had a fast tick sound in dash, not the normal signal tick. I unplugged and re-plugged the 7-pin connector, noticing that it felt a lot looser than I am used to. The problem went away but I will look at that, because it feels like the connector wiggles too easily, which was not the case with the Q7.

Anyway, it tows very nicely and maneuvers easily (of course this is a small and light tow, the trailer is under 900 lbs[*] and the car is about 2500 lbs).


[*] supposedly

I love this pic! M60i looking good T!

[Gene Horr]

Originally Posted by pixelate

It's a Trailex, I believe a 7551.

Hmmm. Interesting. One of the future projects is finding something to tow an X5 (see, I'm sort of on topic) with an RV. The GCWR limit gives me about 7800# tow capacity with the RV fully loaded.

The Trailex CT-8055 might do it if the X5 fuel tank is near empty but leaves no capacity for a spare tire, tools, etc. But even at 1,200# that's a pretty light trailer.

Thanks for the info.

[pixelate]

For what it's worth, the most common aluminum trailers I see at the track are from Trailex, ATC, Featherlite, and Aluma Trailer, in no particular order. I think the ATC trailers are all enclosed, plenty of those in use.

https://www.trailex.com/products/pc/...?idCategory=17
https://alumaklm.com/products/car-haulers/
https://www.fthr.com/product/car-tra...r-pull/#models
https://atctrailers.com/trailers/sport-car-haulers/

[Gene Horr]

Originally Posted by pixelate

For what it's worth, the most common aluminum trailers I see at the track are from Trailex, ATC, Featherlite, and Aluma Trailer, in no particular order. I think the ATC trailers are all enclosed, plenty of those in use.

Thanks for the tips!

[gofast182]

I just got 16mpg towing my S2000 (first page of this thread) down to NJMP last weekend. The X5 now has 62k miles and has been a great tow vehicle and has been good for car camping at the track.

[visegrip72]

Nothing like most on this thread, baby-towing comparatively. We mainly got the tow package for a bike carrier, but also if we needed to tow. We finally used the package! Recently did a "kid-move" and towed a U-Haul 5x8 trailer. The way home from U-Haul was painful, seemed like every pebble the trailer hit went through the frame of the car. We wondered what we were getting into. Thankfully, read and saw Harbor Freight had the Anti-Rattle Hitch Tightener in stock! Between that and a full trailer, the drive on 95 was fine. We could barely tell there was a trailer behind! Our gas mileage dropped a tiny bit. I expected a larger drop. After unloading, the empty trailer didn't impact the car remotely as bad as the initial trip. I'd recommend that 13$ hitch clamp for sure! It also adds a tiny bit of security, as not just a pin pull, now need deep socket / wrench to pull out hitch. https://www.harborfreight.com/anti-r...ner-58134.html Also, hitch allowed for us to just get the cheap trailer instead of needing to rent the full on truck for 5x the cost!

[tejastarun]

Hello All,

I just bought a new to me G05 X5 40i. unfortunately it does not come with a tow package.
What is the best options to get the tow hitch? OEM or aftermarket?
I saw that there is a aftermarket hitch that is stealth that comes with its own harness and module that requires wires to be spliced into tail light harness. I am not a fan of that. However I am not able to find the required parts to do an OEM retrofit.
Please advise. Am I missing out on anything important if I go with the aftermarket route?

Thank you!

[jad03060]

The search function is your friend. YOu might also want to read https://g05.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1964995

[cobramite]

Originally Posted by pixelate

First time towing with the new car. Race day at Laguna Seca. The tow hitch mode backup camera is great for lining up the hitch -- much better than what I had on the 2018 Audi Q7. I also liked how it recognized that the trailer was hooked up and adjusted other displays and modes. I briefly checked out the trailer backup assist mode (using the dial to steer) but didn't find it immediately helpful, so I backed in the old-fashioned way.

When I started the car leaving the track at the end of the day, it gave me a dash warning about a problem with the trailer lights; the left turn signal did not work and had a fast tick sound in dash, not the normal signal tick. I unplugged and re-plugged the 7-pin connector, noticing that it felt a lot looser than I am used to. The problem went away but I will look at that, because it feels like the connector wiggles too easily, which was not the case with the Q7.

Anyway, it tows very nicely and maneuvers easily (of course this is a small and light tow, the trailer is under 900 lbs[*] and the car is about 2500 lbs).
[*] supposedly; may be more like 1200

Love this pic. An M60i pulling a race car and trailer.

[StillPlayzWithRexy]

Track Dayz and Moving Dayz…

[starlights]

Question about factory harness for trailer lights.

I plan to attach two marker lights with turn-break-tail lighting options to my bike rack. I checked the factory installed option on my x5 and noticed there are two connectors under the cover. A 3 pin and a 7 pin round. Which one do I need to connect with? I am assuming 7pin for lights, correct?


Many thanks in advance!


Lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B096HB9SPG/

[Colibri]

Originally Posted by starlights

Question about factory harness for trailer lights.

I plan to attach two marker lights with turn-break-tail lighting options to my bike rack. I checked the factory installed option on my x5 and noticed there are two connectors under the cover. A 3 pin and a 7 pin round. Which one do I need to connect with? I am assuming 7pin for lights, correct?


Many thanks in advance!


Lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B096HB9SPG/

The 7 pin round connector is if you need to connect to a trailer brake controller (and other things). Sounds like all you need is the 4 pin (there is such a thing as a 3 pin connector, but my factory tow package, and far more common is a 4 pin connector - I'd be surprised if you have a 3-pin).

[starlights]

Originally Posted by Colibri

The 7 pin round connector is if you need to connect to a trailer brake controller (and other things). Sounds like all you need is the 4 pin (there is such a thing as a 3 pin connector, but my factory tow package, and far more common is a 4 pin connector - I'd be surprised if you have a 3-pin).

.

Yes. I stand corrected. 4 pin.
So that’s what powers trailer lights? (Tail, Brake and Turn signal)?

[Colibri]

Originally Posted by starlights

.

Yes. I stand corrected. 4 pin.
So that’s what powers trailer lights? (Tail, Brake and Turn signal)?

Yes, 4-pin will control/power the lights. Assuming that since you need to buy lights for your trailer, it does not require an electric trailer brake controller (that's what a 7-pin harness is needed for)... your lights connected to the 4-pin factory plug should do it.

[jad03060]

Note that there is a min/max light wattage for things to work. Some LED lamps might not draw enough for the system to work reliably, and lots of incandescent bulbs could blow a fuse, but either connection would work for your stated use if the bulbs used are within specs.

[starlights]

Originally Posted by jad03060

Note that there is a min/max light wattage for things to work. Some LED lamps might not draw enough for the system to work reliably, and lots of incandescent bulbs could blow a fuse, but either connection would work for your stated use if the bulbs used are within specs.

Thanks for the heads up. I will try the markers/lights linked in my previous post. It’s an experiment and a fun project to put lights behind a Thule hanging bike rack. We will see how it turns out.