[Ninja_H]

I tried to search for similar thread but none seems to be this severe. I've had instrument cluster shutting down on me before, but all were while driving and each time it would come back online after a minute or so. Until this week, everything seems to falling apart.

Yesterday, my instrument cluster would just not start upon entry. Along with HDU, and trip odometer on the center display. I waited for a few minutes and exit the car to lock and unlock several times and they eventually came back.

Today it happened twice. First time I tried to fix it but it would not work. It was when I parked the car but was still in the car. I saw both displays turned off and tried to activate them right after, but only one turned on. The car could drive so I just drove off. After ten minutes or so they came back. But I noticed the drive mode did not change at all. I like to put my car in eco mode but even until the instrument cluster came back on showing my car is in eco, it feels like still under normal mode.

After parking for 15 to 20 minutes, I got back into the car with the same problem once again. Tried to lock and unlock, restart the display, hard reset the display, but none would work. Even after drove off, instrument cluster never came back. It was until now that I noticed the clock was way off for unknown reason, I tried to change the auto time zone setting and the clock just turned blank, nothing, no time at all. Meanwhile, my traction control warning always echoed in the cabin every few seconds. It feels like the instrument cluster was trying to reboot but just couldn't. During this time, the circled button right next to hazard light kept switching between green and orange, I assume it's something wrong with the safety features as well.

No speedometer, no head-up display, no time, no fuel gauge was how I got home with today. Plus, since earlier this week, my BMW app would not show my car on the frontpage. Instead, it's a sedan with white cover on it, just like some other threads. I'm not sure if all these are connected but sure to be something concerned about.

[Ninja_H]

This is what it looks like

[Ninja_H]

Bluetooth audio and Apple Carplay were doing just fine during this entire drama.

Undate:

Parked my car for a few hours and the instrument cluster came back. But it was giving me two errors: brake measuring not possible(if that's how it said), and battery management. Both error messages went away once I started the engine.

But, the trip odometer was not how it's supposed to be. It should be showing your fuel consumption levels for the past 1000 miles right? Mine was giving me a flat line, numbers for "since factory" and "since individual" seems to be right but "since refueling" seems to be way off. Not sure if this has something to do with my hard reset. I tried to push and hold the volume button for both 30 and 60 seconds, instrument cluster never came back and there was no indication of reset succefull.

[nZtiZia]

these glitches tend to favor an issue with the 12V battery (low voltage). have it checked out

[Ninja_H]

Originally Posted by nZtiZia

these glitches tend to favor an issue with the 12V battery (low voltage). have it checked out

low voltage issue even when the engine is running? how?

[nZtiZia]

Originally Posted by Ninja_H

low voltage issue even when the engine is running? how?

you’d be surprised

[formerE36M3/4/5]

You don’t say what year the car is but I would concur with verifying the battery. I would highly encourage everyone to have a battery charger (I have at least 4) and know how to use them. Put it on a charger and see if the problem goes away.
I’ve always considered a battery to be a regular maintenance item, first sign of trouble, replace it. Don’t wait for it to leave you stranded anywhere, it’s not worth trying to get a couple extra months out of it.

My first experience with a weak battery causing strange issues was with my wife’s Volvo S60, radio acting strange, dealer couldn’t figure it out. A month or so later the battery crapped out and after replacing the battery the radio problems mysteriously disappeared.

[Ninja_H]

Originally Posted by formerE36M3/4/5

You don’t say what year the car is but I would concur with verifying the battery. I would highly encourage everyone to have a battery charger (I have at least 4) and know how to use them. Put it on a charger and see if the problem goes away.
I’ve always considered a battery to be a regular maintenance item, first sign of trouble, replace it. Don’t wait for it to leave you stranded anywhere, it’s not worth trying to get a couple extra months out of it.

My first experience with a weak battery causing strange issues was with my wife’s Volvo S60, radio acting strange, dealer couldn’t figure it out. A month or so later the battery crapped out and after replacing the battery the radio problems mysteriously disappeared.

21 model year with 118k miles, always try to keep engine running for few minutes before shutting off because m50i seem to be famous for battery issues caused by cooling fan running extensively after engine is turned off while still needed extra cooling.

[Ninja_H]

Originally Posted by formerE36M3/4/5

I would highly encourage everyone to have a battery charger (I have at least 4) and know how to use them

any recommended brand and model for charger?

[formerE36M3/4/5]

Originally Posted by Ninja_H

21 model year with 118k miles, always try to keep engine running for few minutes before shutting off because m50i seem to be famous for battery issues caused by cooling fan running extensively after engine is turned off while still needed extra cooling.

A 2021 w/120k miles, yeah, I’d replace the battery to start with. You’ve gotten your money’s worth out of it. Even if it doesn’t fix your display problem I would still consider it a wise preventative maintenance.

I had a Toyota Sequoia that wouldn’t start a couple of times (fortunately was in my driveway both times), after the first time Interstate said the battery was fine just needed charging. 2nd time it did it (after only a couple weeks) I replaced the battery and never had a problem again.

[formerE36M3/4/5]

Originally Posted by Ninja_H

any recommended brand and model for charger?

For a trickle charger I really like the CTEK’s (Porsche sells them but slaps a Porsche label and charges 2x as much!).
The Deltran’s are also good trickle chargers (I used them when I rode motorcycles).
As for higher output chargers my go-to is an old Sears 6A/10A charger, I suspect many chargers would suffice.

[doctorwizz]

I use this as it one of the best. I got it used like new for 80.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W3QT226/

[Ninja_H]

Originally Posted by formerE36M3/4/5

Even if it doesn’t fix your display problem I would still consider it a wise preventative maintenance.

Thanks for all the info. BTW, do you know why a battery could cause all the problems? Couldn't figure out why.

[Ninja_H]

I did my engine air filter tonight and noticed some oil inside the Rubber boot and Intake duct. is that something I should be concerned about? Left side was not noticeable but once I switched to right side, the amount of oil was significantly more and got me worried. I saw some articles saying it's normal for turbocharged engines, can someone explain?

[formerE36M3/4/5]

Originally Posted by Ninja_H

Thanks for all the info. BTW, do you know why a battery could cause all the problems? Couldn't figure out why.

Some electronics are just very sensitive to voltage fluctuations, a fact of life with these machines these days.
A new battery might not fix your particular problems but after 119k miles I would consider it a (relatively cheap) maintenance item and I’ve experienced enough flaky issues on newer cars resolved by a new battery I just personally prefer to start there.
If you have a friend with a DVM (digital voltage meter) you can check the voltage (both with the car off and while starting) and see how much it drops. Google to see the relative strength of the battery based off both the readings.

[formerE36M3/4/5]

Originally Posted by Ninja_H

21 model year with 118k miles, always try to keep engine running for few minutes before shutting off because m50i seem to be famous for battery issues caused by cooling fan running extensively after engine is turned off while still needed extra cooling.

Porsche’s have done this for years, after parking in the garage the fan will kick on and off a few times while the car is cooling down.

[nZtiZia]

Originally Posted by formerE36M3/4/5

Some electronics are just very sensitivity to voltage fluctuations, a fact of life with these machines these days.
A new battery might not fix your particular problems but after 119k miles I would consider it a (relatively cheap) maintenance item and I’ve experienced enough flaky issues on newer cars resolved by a new battery I just personally prefer to start there.
If you have a friend with a DVM (digital voltage meter) you can check the voltage (both with the car off and while starting) and see how much it drops. Google to see the relative strength of the battery based off both the readings.

it’s not necessarily due to electronic’s sensitivity to voltage fluctuations, but rather due to poor battery management of this highly electronic/computer-centric vehicle that doesn’t maintain its charge level properly. there was a software update that addressed some models that drew excessive power from the 12V battery even while on standby which lead to early replacement, and the common symptoms were the prevalence of a variety of electronic gremlins. even those models not affected by excessive power draw can still be plagued with inadequate charging of the 12V battery dependent on the owner’s driving characteristics, so it’s actually the 12V battery being the “sensitive” component

do a search here and online and you’ll find how prevalent this issue is

[formerE36M3/4/5]

Yes, fluctuations was a poor choice of words on my part. It's more reduced voltage.

[Ninja_H]

Originally Posted by nZtiZia

there was a software update that addressed some models that drew excessive power from the 12V battery even while on standby which lead to early replacement\

Speaking of software updates, I'm on 07/2020.32 and it's saying no new updates... was never able to receive updates since almost three years ago I believe? Was wondering if this has caused some backfire on me since I never took it to the dealership to deal with the system updates.

[nZtiZia]

Originally Posted by Ninja_H

Speaking of software updates, I'm on 07/2020.32 and it's saying no new updates... was never able to receive updates since almost three years ago I believe? Was wondering if this has caused some backfire on me since I never took it to the dealership to deal with the system updates.

if I recall, the fix for involved vehicles first came with version 11/2022.xx only through the dealership then by OTA version 03/2023.xx, so maybe?

or it could also be a bad instrument cluster, head unit, etc, but checking the health status of the 12V is pretty easy, so either way, let the dealer sort it out. good luck and keep us posted

[eelnoraa]

Originally Posted by Ninja_H

This is what it looks like

I had similar issue happened in my 22 45e. After a few times of flickering on and off, screen just died. HUD was good, idrive was good, music kept playing, just instrument won't turn on. It was replaced under warranty in my case

[Ninja_H]

Originally Posted by nZtiZia

if I recall, the fix for involved vehicles first came with version 11/2022.xx only through the dealership then by OTA version 03/2023.xx, so maybe?

or it could also be a bad instrument cluster, head unit, etc, but checking the health status of the 12V is pretty easy, so either way, let the dealer sort it out. good luck and keep us posted

I might gonna try starting with a battery replacement? I just don't like the feeling to hand over my key to dealership