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      02-22-2022, 12:10 AM   #1
walkday
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Just installed a dashcam with a parking mode on 45e

I'd like to share some experiences I had so far. I am not claiming the originality of my findings. Some information has appeared in previous posts.

1. Fuse slots

The parking mode requires a hardware kit for the dashcam. The kit has three wires: ground, ACC, battery. The latter two must be tapped into the right fuse slots.

1.1 ACC controlled slot no delay: F205 in the rear fuse box, type mini, unused

1.2 ACC controlled slot with 5-10min delay: F72 in the front footwell fuse box, type mini, unused

1.3 Battery connected slot: F27, in the front footwell fuse box, type standard, unused

Remarks: I tried a few, and also searched the forum. I didn't find any no-delay-ACC slot in the front footwell fuse box. Connecting the ACC wire to an AAC slot with delay means your dashcam will continue normal recording for 5-10 minutes after you leave your car.

The manual of BMW's Advanced Car Eye (ACE) 2.0 Retrofit recommends using slot F35 (front footwell) for battery and slot F205 (rear) for ACC. It does not mention F205 is a no-delay-ACC slot (though it is).

The extra normal recording may not be a big deal. But you may lose parking event notifications (if the dashcam has this feature) and have more writing cycles to your microSD. I tested my dashcam VIOFO A129 Pro. The normal and parking modes consume nearly identical amounts of power. So, a few more minutes of recording won't activate the battery protector sooner.

2. Clean vs piggy tail

The method in the ACE manual is very clean but requires the installer to wire cables to the backs of both fuse boxes. After that, you can simply push two mini fuses to unused slots F35 and F205. Super clean. But, accessing the backs requires pulling more panels off the body, which can be quite tricky and time-consuming. I don't think it is worth the effort.

My method uses piggy tails, not as clean, but only needs to pop two panels (if using only the footwell fuse box) and three (if also wiring to the rear fuse box).

3. Panels

I opened the footwell panel and popped the dashboard right side panel. (1-minute job)

Instead of popping the A-pillar panel (5 to 20-minute job), I pushed the cable through the seal. The cable goes deep enough, and I assume it will not interfere with the A-pillar airbag. The force of an inflated airbag may break it though.

I didn't pop the door sill panels (5 to 20-minute job). As a result, I can access only a part of the front footwell fuse box. But, it is still easy to piggy tail both F72 (mini slot) and F27 (standard slot).

4. Next weekend. I will install the rear dashcam and report my experience. Depending on what I find this week, I will decide to add a battery pack. I set the battery protector at 12.4v cutoff.

Last edited by walkday; 03-02-2022 at 03:05 AM..
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      04-15-2022, 11:09 PM   #2
walkday
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I finished installing the rear camera, and also changed to tap the current slots.

The interior panel on the rear liftgate is easy to pop. What was difficult was to fish the wire to the liftgate. I used two long and thin zip ties to get it done.

I followed the installation manual of BMW Advanced Car Eye 2.0 to tap
Battery wire --- front footwell fuse box, slot F35
ACC wire --- rear fuse box, slot F205

No error messages in ECU after a few weeks.

To run the ACC wire and rear camera wire from front to back, I loosened the A and C pillar panels and ran the wires behind the airbags. I inserted the front-to-back wires above the headliner. However, this wasn't ideal as the force of an exploding side airbag can break them. If I were to run the two front-to-back wires again, I would choose the floor.

Last edited by walkday; 04-22-2022 at 12:59 AM..
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      04-16-2022, 08:54 AM   #3
White340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkday View Post
I'd like to share some experiences I had so far. I am not claiming the originality of my findings. Some information has appeared in previous posts.

1. Fuse slots

The parking mode requires a hardware kit for the dashcam. The kit has three wires: ground, ACC, battery. The latter two must be tapped into the right fuse slots.

1.1 ACC controlled slot no delay: F205 in the rear fuse box, type mini, unused

1.2 ACC controlled slot with 5-10min delay: F72 in the front footwell fuse box, type mini, unused

1.3 Battery connected slot: F27, in the front footwell fuse box, type standard, unused

Remarks: I tried a few, and also searched the forum. I didn't find any no-delay-ACC slot in the front footwell fuse box. Connecting the ACC wire to an AAC slot with delay means your dashcam will continue normal recording for 5-10 minutes after you leave your car.

The manual of BMW's Advanced Car Eye (ACE) 2.0 Retrofit recommends using slot F35 (front footwell) for battery and slot F205 (rear) for ACC. It does not mention F205 is a no-delay-ACC slot (though it is).

The extra normal recording may not be a big deal. But you may lose parking event notifications (if the dashcam has this feature) and have more writing cycles to your microSD. I tested my dashcam VIOFO A129 Pro. The normal and parking modes consume nearly identical amounts of power. So, a few more minutes of recording won't activate the battery protector sooner.

2. Clean vs piggy tail

The method in the ACE manual is very clean but requires the installer to wire cables to the backs of both fuse boxes. After that, you can simply push two mini fuses to unused slots F35 and F205. Super clean. But, accessing the backs requires pulling more panels off the body, which can be quite tricky and time-consuming. I don't think it is worth the effort.

My method uses piggy tails, not as clean, but only needs to pop two panels (if using only the footwell fuse box) and three (if also wiring to the rear fuse box).

3. Panels

I opened the footwell panel and popped the dashboard right side panel. (1-minute job)

Instead of popping the A-pillar panel (5 to 20-minute job), I pushed the cable through the seal. The cable goes deep enough, and I assume it will not interfere with the A-pillar airbag. The force of an inflated airbag may break it though.

I didn't pop the door sill panels (5 to 20-minute job). As a result, I can access only a part of the front footwell fuse box. But, it is still easy to piggy tail both F72 (mini slot) and F27 (standard slot).

4. Next weekend. I will install the rear dashcam and report my experience. Depending on what I find this week, I will decide to add a battery pack. I set the battery protector at 12.4v cutoff.
Thanks for this write up. I am looking to order a 45e and will be installing a dual cam setup similar to what I have on my m3. I will prob have more questions for you when I actually get the car.
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      04-16-2022, 03:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White340 View Post
Thanks for this write up. I am looking to order a 45e and will be installing a dual cam setup similar to what I have on my m3. I will prob have more questions for you when I actually get the car.
Let me know when you get your 45e.
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      06-02-2022, 04:51 PM   #5
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Are the mini fuses low profile or regular mini?
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      06-08-2022, 03:27 PM   #6
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It'll be nice to know the amp rating of F205, fuse assignment plan doesn't mention it. I used F258 (10 amp) for my battery pack, it has about 10 minutes delay. No issues so far, but it'll be ideal to find a 10 amp fuse with no delay.
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      09-04-2022, 08:43 PM   #7
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What type of fuse

Hi, I'm trying to install a Viofo A129 dual cam into my X5. I've seen the great advice everyone has posted here. I have a follow-up question: what fuse type should be used in each piggyback cable?
The fuse type that was originally I'm the fuse port plus what exactly....5 amp? 10 amp?

Thanks,

Bklynchris
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      09-05-2022, 03:43 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sathiyan View Post
Are the mini fuses low profile or regular mini?
I bought a box with mixed types and recall I used the mini type, not low-profile mini.
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      09-05-2022, 03:44 AM   #9
walkday
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bklynchris View Post
Hi, I'm trying to install a Viofo A129 dual cam into my X5. I've seen the great advice everyone has posted here. I have a follow-up question: what fuse type should be used in each piggyback cable?
The fuse type that was originally I'm the fuse port plus what exactly....5 amp? 10 amp?

Thanks,

Bklynchris
I did a 5-amp, which is more than enough for the Viofo.
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      09-05-2022, 09:55 AM   #10
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I used a fuse block tap that you can buy at most any auto store. Plugs right into the mini fuse block open position and provides a fuse to the dash cam, and requires a second fuse if plugged in such that the tap out is on the cold side of the fuse. Spliced it to a 12V to USB adapter that the dashcam cable plugged into. Fast and easy.
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      09-05-2022, 12:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkday View Post
I finished installing the rear camera, and also changed to tap the current slots.

The interior panel on the rear liftgate is easy to pop. What was difficult was to fish the wire to the liftgate. I used two long and thin zip ties to get it done.

I followed the installation manual of BMW Advanced Car Eye 2.0 to tap
Battery wire --- front footwell fuse box, slot F35
ACC wire --- rear fuse box, slot F205

No error messages in ECU after a few weeks.

To run the ACC wire and rear camera wire from front to back, I loosened the A and C pillar panels and ran the wires behind the airbags. I inserted the front-to-back wires above the headliner. However, this wasn't ideal as the force of an exploding side airbag can break them. If I were to run the two front-to-back wires again, I would choose the floor.
Did you take any photos of the install?
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      09-07-2022, 03:32 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I2P View Post
Did you take any photos of the install?
I did. While you might think they are useful, they at best help you locate the fuse panels, etc. The trick parts are popping panels without breaking the plastic rivets (though you can buy them online or from your dealer), and the trickiest part is to run the wire to the tailgate for the rear dashcam. I used a long plastic zip tie as the needle. The videos will do, but pictures won't. If I do it again on another g05, I will shoot some FOV videos.
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      01-25-2023, 01:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkday View Post
I finished installing the rear camera, and also changed to tap the current slots.

The interior panel on the rear liftgate is easy to pop. What was difficult was to fish the wire to the liftgate. I used two long and thin zip ties to get it done.

I followed the installation manual of BMW Advanced Car Eye 2.0 to tap
Battery wire --- front footwell fuse box, slot F35
ACC wire --- rear fuse box, slot F205

No error messages in ECU after a few weeks.

To run the ACC wire and rear camera wire from front to back, I loosened the A and C pillar panels and ran the wires behind the airbags. I inserted the front-to-back wires above the headliner. However, this wasn't ideal as the force of an exploding side airbag can break them. If I were to run the two front-to-back wires again, I would choose the floor.

Sorry to bring old tread back alive.

I want to install BMW Advance Car Eye 3.0 but mine only has front camera.
Which slots do I need to connect on Front panel - Yellow & Red cable?
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      03-12-2023, 09:20 PM   #14
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Hi walkday

Thank you so much for sharing the installation details that are super useful!

I am also installing a dash cam on my 2023 45e. I encounter a problem tapping battery wire to slot F35 of the front fuse box using fuse tap, which does not fit into the slot due to its side wire connector being stuck in the fuse box. (See attachment)
I wonder if you were using different type of pigtail fuse tap, or did you manually trim it to fit into the fuse box?
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      03-13-2023, 08:40 AM   #15
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Hi, I will be going on a road trip soon, and would like to know if there are simple solutions for short term use.

Specifically, can I buy a front camera from Amazon, pop it on the dash and plug it in to the 12 volt "cigarette lighter" and be good to go.

I'm assuming I won't have the benefits outlined in the discussions above, but will it work for my identified needs?
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      03-13-2023, 08:45 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOFT View Post
Hi, I will be going on a road trip soon, and would like to know if there are simple solutions for short term use.

Specifically, can I buy a front camera from Amazon, pop it on the dash and plug it in to the 12 volt "cigarette lighter" and be good to go.

I'm assuming I won't have the benefits outlined in the discussions above, but will it work for my identified needs?
yes. that's what i've done for my cars for the last 10 years. each camera averages about 3 years. caught a guy trying to hit and run me and another trying to run me off the road
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      03-15-2023, 11:16 AM   #17
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Great write up, nicely done. I have cameras in all my cars and I have GoPro type cameras on my road bike. I actually feel uncomfortable when driving a car without a camera now.
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      04-03-2023, 01:23 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lianngg View Post
Hi walkday

Thank you so much for sharing the installation details that are super useful!

I am also installing a dash cam on my 2023 45e. I encounter a problem tapping battery wire to slot F35 of the front fuse box using fuse tap, which does not fit into the slot due to its side wire connector being stuck in the fuse box. (See attachment)
I wonder if you were using different type of pigtail fuse tap, or did you manually trim it to fit into the fuse box?
Replying my own question.
I ended up purchasing fuse holder connectors for both front and rear fuse boxes, to extend between the fuse box and fuse tap.
(Amazon link: https://a.co/d/5BGluX6 )
The connector is mini type. And I use standard fuse tap that fit better in the holder.
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