[Sleeper]

Separate from the Dinan product thread, I wanted to post a brief review of the Dinan F95 lowering springs + bumpstop kit here.

Summary:
- Uneventful install
- No new noises, clunks, bangs, screeches etc - all as factory
- Ride height lowered around 1.4" front and rear
- Factory rake maintained
- Ride is slightly sharper and more taut than factory; it's not uncomfortable or over-sprung at all
- Increase tramlining due to increased negative camber at the front wheels (non-adjustable)

Narrative:
My post-install experience has been, in a word, unremarkable. And I say that in the best way possible. At the end of the day, these are just lowering springs with no moving parts, nothing to set, nothing to mess with and adjust - just simple, straightforward, and effective. Unremarkable is what you want, and that's what these are. They're simple and better than OEM - for me - in every way.

Given that we're lowering the car on stock dampers, we're limiting remaining damper travel, so the mitigant to that is higher spring rates. Dinan has quoted the following -

F95 X5M Front
Stock - Linear Springs - 580 (lbs/in) rate
Dinan - Dual Rate Springs - 696 (lbs/in) working rate (max hard rate)
20% increase (ish) in front spring rate for Dinan (max rate) over OEM

F95 X5M Rear
Stock - Progressive Springs - 724 (lbs/in) working rate (max hard rate)
Dinan - Dual Rate Springs - 869 (lbs/in) working rate (max hard rate)
20% increase in spring rate for Dinan (max rate) over OEM (max rate)

So 20% may seem like a big number, but it's barely perceptible in daily driving. Expansion joints and road cracks hit a bit sharper, but it's not jarring or crashy by any means. That said, I have a car that weighs half of the F95's pork with 900lb springs on each corner... I have very high tolerance for a sharp/stiff ride. Others more inclined to cushier, highly sprung rides may disagree with my perspective.

So long story short, if you're okay with the feel of the OEM suspension, you will be 100% fine with the Dinan setup. If you're tolerant of the OEM suspension but wish it was a bit softer (and lower), you will still be fine with the Dinan setup as it doesn't feel 20% stiffer than stock in standard driving (due to the dual rate springs).

I doubt many of us are tracking our boat F95/6's (and if you are, adjustable or non-adjustable springs are not the answer at all), so the main idea here is lowering. For that case use, these are a perfect set-and-forget and inexpensive solution. KISS.

Last comment is that I like that these springs don't dump the front end and reverse the rake. You want higher in the front for a couple of reasons - better weight balance when diving into corners, and also, inner tire shoulder life. Toe kills tires, but a slammed front end will result in pretty aggressive negative camber up front which will eventually cause uneven wear on your inner tire shoulders (relative to the rest of the tire). Despite how well this thing moves around, it's still an SUV and people hauler, not a track car.

Final thought:
10/10 would recommend.

Pictures -
- Same location to make before/after easy
- 15mm spacers front/rear in all pictures
- "Before" pics on OEM 809M's, "After" on OEM 818M's

BEFORE


AFTER


BEFORE


AFTER


BEFORE


AFTER


And a bunch more 'Afters' -

[S68 X5MC]

Did you get an alignment after? Was everything able to go back to stock numbers so there isn't extra tire wear? Looks great and I look forward to grabbing these some time soon.

[Bmock17]

Originally Posted by Sleeper

Separate from the Dinan product thread, I wanted to post a brief review of the Dinan F95 lowering springs + bumpstop kit here.

Summary:
- Uneventful install
- No new noises, clunks, bangs, screeches etc - all as factory
- Ride height lowered around 1.4" front and rear
- Factory rake maintained
- Ride is slightly sharper and more taut than factory; it's not uncomfortable or over-sprung at all
- Increase tramlining due to increased negative camber at the front wheels (non-adjustable)

Narrative:
My post-install experience has been, in a word, unremarkable. And I say that in the best way possible. At the end of the day, these are just lowering springs with no moving parts, nothing to set, nothing to mess with and adjust - just simple, straightforward, and effective. Unremarkable is what you want, and that's what these are. They're simple and better than OEM - for me - in every way.

Given that we're lowering the car on stock dampers, we're limiting remaining damper travel, so the mitigant to that is higher spring rates. Dinan has quoted the following -

F95 X5M Front
Stock - Linear Springs - 580 (lbs/in) rate
Dinan - Dual Rate Springs - 696 (lbs/in) working rate (max hard rate)
20% increase (ish) in front spring rate for Dinan (max rate) over OEM

F95 X5M Rear
Stock - Progressive Springs - 724 (lbs/in) working rate (max hard rate)
Dinan - Dual Rate Springs - 869 (lbs/in) working rate (max hard rate)
20% increase in spring rate for Dinan (max rate) over OEM (max rate)

So 20% may seem like a big [...]

How long was the install time? I remember seeing somewhere that Dinan said it takes 11 hours. Is that accurate?

[Dinan_Engineering]

Originally Posted by Sleeper

Separate from the Dinan product thread, I wanted to post a brief review of the Dinan F95 lowering springs + bumpstop kit here.

Summary:
- Uneventful install
- No new noises, clunks, bangs, screeches etc - all as factory
- Ride height lowered around 1.4" front and rear
- Factory rake maintained
- Ride is slightly sharper and more taut than factory; it's not uncomfortable or over-sprung at all
- Increase tramlining due to increased negative camber at the front wheels (non-adjustable)

Narrative:
My post-install experience has been, in a word, unremarkable. And I say that in the best way possible. At the end of the day, these are just lowering springs with no moving parts, nothing to set, nothing to mess with and adjust - just simple, straightforward, and effective. Unremarkable is what you want, and that's what these are. They're simple and better than OEM - for me - in every way.

Given that we're lowering the car on stock dampers, we're limiting remaining damper travel, so the mitigant to that is higher spring rates. Dinan has quoted the following -

F95 X5M Front
Stock - Linear Springs - 580 (lbs/in) rate
Dinan - Dual Rate Springs - 696 (lbs/in) working rate (max hard rate)
20% increase (ish) in front spring rate for Dinan (max rate) over OEM

F95 X5M Rear
Stock - Progressive Springs - 724 (lbs/in) working rate (max hard rate)
Dinan - Dual Rate Springs - 869 (lbs/in) working rate (max hard rate)
20% increase in spring rate for Dinan (max rate) over OEM (max rate)

So 20% may seem like a big [...]

Glad you are enjoying them! We take a lot of pride in suspension development and reviews like yours reinforce our desires to keep plugging away at it.

Originally Posted by Bmock17

How long was the install time? I remember seeing somewhere that Dinan said it takes 11 hours. Is that accurate?

Our quoted labor time (11 hrs) is based off of dealership times (KSD) as that is the minimum time a dealership would bill regardless. Often going to an independent shop suspension oriented installs in particular will be quoted notably less.

[Sleeper]

Originally Posted by S68 X5MC

Did you get an alignment after? Was everything able to go back to stock numbers so there isn't extra tire wear? Looks great and I look forward to grabbing these some time soon.

Not aligned yet. I wanted to let the springs settle for a day or so (probably not necessary) before getting it aligned. And then I'm away for a week so I'll get it on the rack on the 16th.

It's unlikely we'll be able to keep the camber to stock spec - I'm expecting 'out of spec' front camber (too cambered/negative), but toe and caster should be to spec. You'll end up with accelerated inner tire wear over time, but toe is what trashes tires in short order so as long as that's dialled in, I don't anticipate too many issues.

Originally Posted by Bmock17

How long was the install time? I remember seeing somewhere that Dinan said it takes 11 hours. Is that accurate?

DIY time is in the higher end of the spectrum. Experienced shop time is 6-8 hours including an hour for alignment.

[Sleeper]

Originally Posted by Dinan_Engineering

Glad you are enjoying them! We take a lot of pride in suspension development and reviews like yours reinforce our desires to keep plugging away at it.

Yes, indeed. Just trying to score positive review points to help convince you guys to make the E46 M3 air intake again haha.

[Tejas1836]

Excellent
ETA: What is the difference in unsprung weight with the forged 818s, per wheel?

[Sleeper]

Originally Posted by Tejas1836

Excellent
ETA: What is the difference in unsprung weight with the forged 818s, per wheel?

Good question. If I’d had half a brain, I could have weighed both sets with same tires mounted. But sadly, just a quarter brain. And now with different tires mounted, it wouldn’t be an accurate comparison.

[Tejas1836]

I emailed Alloy Wheels Direct, I'll post if I find out

[x622]

Originally Posted by Tejas1836

I emailed Alloy Wheels Direct, I'll post if I find out

I have some 818's in boxes sitting unused... I have to move the boxes anyway so I'll try and remember to weigh them. Hell I might as well sell them...

[Tejas1836]

Originally Posted by x622

I have some 818's in boxes sitting unused... I have to move the boxes anyway so I'll try and remember to weigh them. Hell I might as well sell them...

Off your 23 X5M?
What did you replace them with?

[iconoclast]

Perhaps spraying the control arms matte black and adding spacers may help with the reverse rake appearance that is occurring otherwise it looks like Dinan did what they do best by providing an OEM+ style plug+play solution to a problem that should not have existed from the factory.

[x622]

Originally Posted by Tejas1836

Off your 23 X5M?
What did you replace them with?

No they we're off my 21 actually. I kept them because the 23 came with some 809s I think that looked terrible, so I put those on the 21 when I swapped it for the 23.

P200SC's are what's on there


Sleeper
How do the harmonics feel over large transitions? Do you feel like you have a pogo stick effect where the car takes longer to settle due to the rebound not being matched to that springrate? That's how it felt to me on the MSS stuff which is why it only lasted 150 miles for me.

[Sleeper]

Originally Posted by iconoclast

Perhaps spraying the control arms matte black and adding spacers may help with the reverse rake appearance that is occurring otherwise it looks like Dinan did what they do best by providing an OEM+ style plug+play solution to a problem that should not have existed from the factory.

I’m running 15/15 spacers in all the photos. I don’t think you’d need to spray the control arms as they’re really only visible if you crouch down and look in at eye level with the right light angle. My photos all have shadows adjusted up in post and I’m crouched down shooting into the wheel wells. It’s really not what you see in person. I think I’m also on a bit of an uphill so probably exaggerating the reverse rake a bit.

But totally agree. I’m sure there was a reason BMW jacked the car up so much from the factory, but that much wheel gap just looks weird especially with the skinny sidewall tires. Dinan did their thing with a super simple solution. No complaints as is but I do need more seat time to give a better review.

Originally Posted by x622

Sleeper
How do the harmonics feel over large transitions? Do you feel like you have a pogo stick effect where the car takes longer to settle due to the rebound not being matched to that springrate? That's how it felt to me on the MSS stuff which is why it only lasted 150 miles for me.

Not at all. I’d love to know spring rate on MSS’ setup but not sure we’ll ever get that data. I feel like the dampers can easily keep up to the 20% increase in max hard rates on the Dinan springs, and otherwise it feels mostly stock +. Everything feels a touch tighter/stiffer vs factory springs, but it’s only when you’re pushing or on major transitions/dips where you feel the extra spring rate kick in. But never pogo’ey.

I know the bouncy, vague, floaty feeling you’re referring to and I have yet to replicate it on all sorts of driving scenarios and different roads. Will report back again once I have more seat time next week.

[crazyinp]

Originally Posted by x622

No they we're off my 21 actually. I kept them because the 23 came with some 809s I think that looked terrible, so I put those on the 21 when I swapped it for the 23.

P200SC's are what's on there


Sleeper
How do the harmonics feel over large transitions? Do you feel like you have a pogo stick effect where the car takes longer to settle due to the rebound not being matched to that springrate? That's how it felt to me on the MSS stuff which is why it only lasted 150 miles for me.

If you ever thing to sell those (818M) let me know Same reason, my '23 came with 809M have been looking for pristine set of 818M

[iconoclast]

Originally Posted by Sleeper

I don’t think you’d need to spray the control arms as they’re really only visible if you crouch down and look in at eye level with the right light angle.

I did it on mine and previous vehicles. Cleaner look.

[Sleeper]

Just as follow up, I put a bunch of additional aggressive miles on these today. There is absolutely no bounce, pogo, float, or other unwanted feedback from this setup on the road. The OEM dampers are completely suited to these springs even in Comfort mode.

I was happy with them after first install, but now I’m a big fan after getting more seat time. The only downside is a bit more harshness and loudness over expansion joints in the rear of the car, but otherwise they behave like stock.

[x622]

Originally Posted by Sleeper

Just as follow up, I put a bunch of additional aggressive miles on these today. There is absolutely no bounce, pogo, float, or other unwanted feedback from this setup on the road. The OEM dampers are completely suited to these springs even in Comfort mode.

I was happy with them after first install, but now I’m a big fan after getting more seat time. The only downside is a bit more harshness and loudness over expansion joints in the rear of the car, but otherwise they behave like stock.

Did you get a settled alignment done yet?

[Sleeper]

Originally Posted by x622

Did you get a settled alignment done yet?

Monday AM. Travelled since springs were installed, then got to drive it today, then off again.

I'll post up alignment notes on Monday once it's dialled in.

[Sleeper]

Alignment done. Toe was way out which wasn’t unexpected, and rear camber was a bit off pre-alignment but easily dialled in.

Front camber is also predictably not within spec, but the more modest drop of the Dinan springs has them not terribly off where inner tire shoulder wear will be that much worse than stock. Front right isn’t ideal, but I’m happy to be at -2* on that corner vs -2.5-3*.

Anyway, reference only as this applies to my setup but again, I don’t see this setup as being all that harsh long-term on the tires. More so for sure than stock, but I’ll take the tire life penalty for the other positive trade offs.

[S68 X5MC]

Originally Posted by Sleeper

Alignment done. Toe was way out which wasn’t unexpected, and rear camber was a bit off pre-alignment but easily dialled in.

Front camber is also predictably not within spec, but the more modest drop of the Dinan springs has them not terribly off where inner tire shoulder wear will be that much worse than stock. Front right isn’t ideal, but I’m happy to be at -2* on that corner vs -2.5-3*.

Anyway, reference only as this applies to my setup but again, I don’t see this setup as being all that harsh long-term on the tires. More so for sure than stock, but I’ll take the tire life penalty for the other positive trade offs.

Not too bad, but I'm curious if Dinan_Engineering will ever create some aftermarket arms for more custom adjustments. Might be a good market to do so.

[VETTEPRO]

I've been running the Dinan Springs for a while now and have no complaints. These guys that have dropped them way down using other kits and saying it rides better than stock are dreaming. Travel is travel period! Take away half your travel (or more) and it is going to bottom. There is no physical way around that.
I see possibilities for adding more drop without losing any travel though. I did something similar on my F85 and it worked great.
https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1707385
You have to move the bottom of the shock down, in relation to the lower control arm. There is no other way. Well, I suppose you could move the top of the shock up, but that would require cutting the car up a bunch. I'm not going that way.
I need to take the suspension apart again and have a good look to be sure. The front shock appears to be hollow where it seats in the control arm. If you cut 3/8" off the bottom, that should drop the vehicle about half an inch. It looks like you could cut 1/2"off and get around 3/4" drop. I'd have to measure from the fulcrum to the shock base and the hub face to get the actual ratio.
The rear would use the same sort of theory, but it will require cutting and welding the control arm to lower the mounting bolt hole. I'll probably have to buy a new set to experiment with.
Stuff like this interests me.