[Tekhed2]

Hi, I was really hoping to run 22" front and 23" rear with an aftermarket set of wheels I'm looking to have built.

Here's what I'm considering
Front: 295/35R22
Rear: 315/30R23

Numbers look familiar? So everything is OEM except the diameter. Here are the deltas:

New setup tire height: 1.03% (front vs back)
Old setup tire height: 1.07% (front vs back)

Rolling diameter differences (OEM vs new)
Front: 3.43%
Rear: 3.40%

Lastly, if these numbers are acceptable to the vehicle's computers, in my mind this would almost look OEM (ratios) but 1" larger overall.

My thoughts:

1. I think this should look decent?
2. No skinny tires.
3. Reduce OEM fender gap, requiring less of a drop with new suspension.
4. I can run Michelin Pilot Sport 4s

Your thoughts? Am I thinking about this correctly?


EDIT: I'm thinking this will affect final drive ratio.
EDIT 2: After 2 months, nothing feels different about take offs/accelerations.
EDIT 3: After 4 months, everything still feels great. I don't race the vehicle, but I do spirited driving for short bursts. In this edit, the X5M has also been lowered a good 2.5 inches since edit 2.


Thank you

[GJCaesar]

i hope someone with experience share an opinion.Also the 315/30/23 ps4s are k1 ferrari spec.I have read that they have less tread depth and have differences compared to the standard one.So maybe they are not optimal choice.

[kolosy]

Originally Posted by Tekhed2

Hi, I was really hoping to run 22" front and 23" rear with an aftermarket set of wheels I'm looking to have built.

Here's what I'm considering
Front: 295/35R22
Rear: 315/30R23

Numbers look familiar? So everything is OEM except the diameter. Here are the deltas:

New setup tire height: 1.03% (front vs back)
Old setup tire height: 1.07% (front vs back)

Rolling diameter differences (OEM vs new)
Front: 3.43%
Rear: 3.40%

Lastly, if these numbers are acceptable to the vehicle's computers, in my mind this would almost look OEM (ratios) but 1" larger overall.

My thoughts:

1. I think this should look decent?
2. No skinny tires.
3. Reduce OEM fender gap, requiring less of a drop with new suspension.
4. I can run Michelin Pilot Sport 4s

Your thoughts? Am I thinking about this correctly?


EDIT: I'm thinking this will affect final drive ratio.


Thank you

i mean... yes, it'll impact final drive ratio. you're changing the number of revs/mile by going up in diameter without going to a skinner tire. 3.5% isn't a huge amount (i think the guidance is to stay less than 5%, but it's going to impact your speedometer reading and i'm sure other things).

[Tekhed2]

Originally Posted by kolosy

i mean... yes, it'll impact final drive ratio. you're changing the number of revs/mile by going up in diameter without going to a skinner tire. 3.5% isn't a huge amount (i think the guidance is to stay less than 5%, but it's going to impact your speedometer reading and i'm sure other things).

I was wondering what the general rule of thumb was regarding percentage, thanks for sharing that. MPH deviation is 60 @ 62 I believe? Assuming the OEM measurement is accurate.

I am curious what “other things” could imply?

I found postings by Sethsubzero. He’s been running 23 squared but under the same concept since last year on his 2024 LCI. He plused up his rolling diameters (maintaining OEM aspect ratios). I’ve reached to him to see what his experience has been so far.

Hopefully I’m doing enough homework to take a safe calculated risk if I make the purchase.

Thanks for your input.

[kolosy]

Originally Posted by Tekhed2

I was wondering what the general rule of thumb was regarding percentage, thanks for sharing that. MPH deviation is 60 @ 62 I believe? Assuming the OEM measurement is accurate.

I am curious what “other things” could imply?

I found postings by Sethsubzero. He’s been running 23 squared but under the same concept since last year on his 2024 LCI. He plused up his rolling diameters (maintaining OEM aspect ratios). I’ve reached to him to see what his experience has been so far.

Hopefully I’m doing enough homework to take a safe calculated risk if I make the purchase.

Thanks for your input.

"other things" in my mind is impact on the various stability control systems. i think it's more of an issue if you have a mismatch in rolling diameter front to rear, but i do wonder if at some point the car compares what it sees on the speedo to GPS and starts to freak out. again, you're most likely in the clear given the 3.x% difference, but still worth considering.

[Tekhed2]

Originally Posted by kolosy

"other things" in my mind is impact on the various stability control systems. i think it's more of an issue if you have a mismatch in rolling diameter front to rear, but i do wonder if at some point the car compares what it sees on the speedo to GPS and starts to freak out. again, you're most likely in the clear given the 3.x% difference, but still worth considering.

This is a fair call out.

Before I drop money and time into this effort, concerns like this only benefit everyone who reads this thread.

I’ll be checking into this a bit more and share anything I come up with. Wish I had a friend who is an SME in every subject of concern.

[GAMA]

How are you brother. You know already about my setup 😉.
295/30ZR22
315/25ZR23
I actually wanted to run 325 in the rear but tires are not available at the moment.

Post pics once you get it drop and wheels on 🤜🏽🤛🏽

[GJCaesar]

https://g05.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1873937

I found another member who is running larger diameter 5%.He reported no issues for 25k miles,but reported slight loss in handling capability which is expected.He is also running 275 front to prevent rubbing without lowering.So it seems 3.5% it will be possible to run without issues and rubbing,but you can't lower it at least not much.so i will stick with OEM diameter cause i want to lower mine.I will start with a set of 22 wheels oem diameter and when i lower it to my taste i will do some measurements to see if can run 3.5% bigger diameter without rubbing.

[Tekhed2]

Originally Posted by GAMA

How are you brother. You know already about my setup 😉.
295/30ZR22
315/25ZR23
I actually wanted to run 325 in the rear but tires are not available at the moment.

Post pics once you get it drop and wheels on 🤜🏽🤛🏽

Yeeeah....325 would beef out the rears. I think it could look nice.

Thanks for dropping in. I'm baffled why none of the manufacturers are carrying the 25 aspect ratios for this diameter but in Europe they are.

[Tekhed2]

Okay finally made up my mind. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on my build setup.

It looks like the specs will work well with the X5M. There's already quite a few others rolling with much higher rolling diameters without issue. I'll be at the 3% mark both front and back regarding diameter plus up, and I'll be slightly lower on the front to rear comparison than OEM, coming in at 1.03% vs OEM 1.07%.

Looks...well, i gotta say I'm not a fan of they typical make the sidewall smaller if you plus up 1". By keeping a 315/30 on the rear, everything remains in proportion. I'm attaching a pic of someone on 23 squared, running 315/30/23.

While I would not run a 315 on the front, what I can appreciate is that the tires do not look like donuts and they maintain OEM distance from wheel lip to road.

Also, this vehicle is lowered on KW V4, so I'm getting a nice idea how how my X5M will look once lowed on this size.

I have managed to get a similar view of the 22 inch tire sizes on an X6M, and for the front, it looks just as appealing.

Okay, 12 weeks (+/-) for the coil overs and 5 weeks from Monday for the wheels once I place the build order. Guess I'll be back in July once I get all the pieces.

Quick thanks to everyone who threw in some thoughts.

[GJCaesar]

Originally Posted by Tekhed2

Okay finally made up my mind. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on my build setup.

It looks like the specs will work well with the X5M. There's already quite a few others rolling with much higher rolling diameters without issue. I'll be at the 3% mark both front and back regarding diameter plus up, and I'll be slightly lower on the front to rear comparison than OEM, coming in at 1.03% vs OEM 1.07%.

Looks...well, i gotta say I'm not a fan of they typical make the sidewall smaller if you plus up 1". By keeping a 315/30 on the rear, everything remains in proportion. I'm attaching a pic of someone on 23 squared, running 315/30/23.

While I would not run a 315 on the front, what I can appreciate is that the tires do not look like donuts and they maintain OEM distance from wheel lip to road.

Also, this vehicle is lowered on KW V4, so I'm getting a nice idea how how my X5M will look once lowed on this size.

I have managed to get a similar view of the 22 inch tire sizes on an X6M, and for the front, it looks just as appealing.

Okay, 12 weeks (+/-) for the coil overs and 5 weeks from Monday for the wheels once I place the build order. Guess I'll be back in July once I get all the pieces.

Quick thanks to everyone who threw in some thoughts.

which will be your tire choice?If lowering is possible with this setup i will reconsider my choice.What offsets are you getting?

[Tekhed2]

Originally Posted by GJCaesar

which will be your tire choice?If lowering is possible with this setup i will reconsider my choice.What offsets are you getting?

You absolutely can lower the vehicle with this tire setup. The image above shows that X5M lowered with KW V4s. The benefit is that the entire vehicle lifts .5 inches, and .5 inches closes the gap. If you lower the chassis by .5 inches, you’ve closed the gap by 1 inch and returned to stock overall height.

If you lower another inch you,ve closed the gap by two inches but only lowered the chassis by 1.5 inches.

Additionally, you get the benefit of OEM sidewalls, so your wheel damage risk and comfort remains roughly the same.

The rolling diameter difference between front and rear is 1.03%. This is a better ratio than OEM. Also, each axel only increases rolling diameter by the recommended maximum of 3%.

Tires are in stock and come in at the same price as OEM. Discount is carrying both Michelin and Perelli in those sizes.

I believe the aesthetics are far superior than what I’m typically seeing posted.

23 inch wheels on the rear look great but oversized for the front. 22 inch wheels look perfect on the front but leave the rear a bit out of proportion to my eyes.

In my opinion the trade offs are within reason. Economically…LOL…well apples to apples it’s about the same. I’m spending $200 more to get 23 inch rear wheels over 22 inch.

I’m currently on 15mm front spacers and 20mm rear spacers.

Based on those numbers, subtract 15 from stock front (31) and I land at ET 16. You may want more or less concavity so sprinkle in your own adjustments. For the rear I land at ET 23. For context I’m keeping stock widths.
The lower the number the more concavity potential, but this is 100% relative to wheel width.

My numbers will clear brakes and other considerations.

If you change the width, those same ETs will change the concavity of the wheel. The wider you go the more limited you are on concavity since you may need to extend your fenders to compensate for pushing the wheel out even further along with growing the width which takes place both inside and outside the wheel.

So if you move to a 12 inch width and do not alter the body, you’ll land at a less aggressive ET option if you’re aiming for concavity. You only have so much room toward the suspension…and before you start poking out of the fender.

This setup should still yield an OEM Plus appearance with “nearly” zero drawbacks.

Lastly, you will still gain some negative front camber. BMW makes a front control arm just for the XM, X6M, and X5M to take care of this. It removes enough to bring you back to factory. These will set you back another $1k, but if you’re in this game, it may be worth the extra coin.

Good luck. I hope this helps.

[GJCaesar]

Originally Posted by Tekhed2

You absolutely can lower the vehicle with this tire setup. The image above shows that X5M lowered with KW V4s. The benefit is that the entire vehicle lifts .5 inches, and .5 inches closes the gap. If you lower the chassis by .5 inches, you’ve closed the gap by 1 inch and returned to stock overall height.

If you lower another inch you,ve closed the gap by two inches but only lowered the chassis by 1.5 inches.

Additionally, you get the benefit of OEM sidewalls, so your wheel damage risk and comfort remains roughly the same.

The rolling diameter difference between front and rear is 1.03%. This is a better ratio than OEM. Also, each axel only increases rolling diameter by the recommended maximum of 3%.

Tires are in stock and come in at the same price as OEM. Discount is carrying both Michelin and Perelli in those sizes.

I believe the aesthetics are far superior than what I’m typically seeing posted.

23 inch wheels on the rear look great but oversized for the front. 22 inch wheels look perfect on the front but leave the rear a bit out of proportion to my eyes.

In my opinion the trade offs are within reason. Economically…LOL…well apples to apples it’s about the same. I’m spending $200 more to get 23 inch rear wheels over 22 inch.

I’m currently on 15mm front spacers and 20mm rear spacers.

Based on those numbers, subtract 15 from stock front (31) and I land at ET 16. You may want more or less concavity so sprinkle in your own adjustments. For the rear I land at ET 23. For context I’m keeping stock widths.
The lower the number the more concavity potential, but this is 100% relative to wheel width.

My numbers will clear brakes and other considerations.

If you change the width, those same ETs will change the concavity of the wheel. The wider you go the more limited you are on concavity since you may need to extend your fenders to compensate for pushing the wheel out even further along with growing the width which takes place both inside and outside the wheel.

So if you move to a 12 inch width and do not alter the body, you’ll land at a less aggressive ET option if you’re aiming for concavity. You only have so much room toward the suspension…and before you start poking out of the fender.

This setup should still yield an OEM Plus appearance with “nearly” zero drawbacks.

Lastly, you will still gain some negative front camber. BMW makes a front control arm just for the XM, X6M, and X5M to take care of this. It removes enough to bring you back to factory. These will set you back another $1k, but if you’re in this game, it may be worth the extra coin.

Good luck. I hope this helps.

The fact you closed the gap and raise the height so when you lower it is not slammed,but without a gap is what i most like for this setup.i also think 22/23 is the best regarding aesthetics.Tire choice seems a little unclear cause all 3 options(i have a bridgestone option here) are with different specs front to rear.I have to consult someone regarding this matter.About offsets i will go 20mm all around cause mine is X6.
what is your wheel design choice if not a secret yet

[Tekhed2]

Originally Posted by GJCaesar

The fact you closed the gap and raise the height so when you lower it is not slammed,but without a gap is what i most like for this setup.i also think 22/23 is the best regarding aesthetics.Tire choice seems a little unclear cause all 3 options(i have a bridgestone option here) are with different specs front to rear.I have to consult someone regarding this matter.About offsets i will go 20mm all around cause mine is X6.
what is your wheel design choice if not a secret yet

Ahh okay, definitely double check everything. Hate wasting money and time. Share anything new here if that’s possible.

For now, my wheel choice is quiet. Once I get all the pieces here I’ll definitely share my build. No secret after that!

Right now everything is in my imagination (and wallet) so we’ll see if everything works out.

[Tekhed2]

Wheels have been made and are ready to ship. My X5M is a Mineral White, so this should be a nice pairing.

Still waiting on the suspension (KW V4). Suspension not due until.....June...late June. Hopefully I get surprised and it comes in sooner.

I will not be installing anything until everything is here.

[GJCaesar]

Originally Posted by Tekhed2

Wheels have been made and are ready to ship. My X5M is a Mineral White, so this should be a nice pairing.

Still waiting on the suspension (KW V4). Suspension not due until.....June...late June. Hopefully I get surprised and it comes in sooner.

I will not be installing anything until everything is here.

Nice.i am also ordering bcforged.What sizes and offsets did you end up with?Also do you know the weights?

[Tekhed2]

Originally Posted by GJCaesar

Nice.i am also ordering bcforged.What sizes and offsets did you end up with?Also do you know the weights?

Thanks. Not sure on weight. My last set was considerably lighter though.

22x10.5" +16 Front
23x11.5" +23 Rear

[Tekhed2]

Wheels are on and everything is "perfect". Waiting for the coilovers to come in before I post final pics.

I will say that the wheels are working out great, no issues. I'm not sure why we don't see more 23s, they look very natural on the vehicle. The correct tires look really nice and are not rubber bands.

[MADBMWX5MC]

Thanks for the update, I was wondering where you were on this one.

[GJCaesar]

Originally Posted by Tekhed2

Wheels are on and everything is "perfect". Waiting for the coilovers to come in before I post final pics.

I will say that the wheels are working out great, no issues. I'm not sure why we don't see more 23s, they look very natural on the vehicle. The correct tires look really nice and are not rubber bands.

What tires did you end up with?Michelin?I spoke on the phone and emailed michelin europe about running differenet spec front to rear and they told me they don’t recommend,but they didn’t sound very convincing and didn’t gave me any details about the difference between normal and k1 spec.So maybe they were just guessing.

[Tekhed2]

Originally Posted by GJCaesar

What tires did you end up with?Michelin?I spoke on the phone and emailed michelin europe about running differenet spec front to rear and they told me they don’t recommend,but they didn’t sound very convincing and didn’t gave me any details about the difference between normal and k1 spec.So maybe they were just guessing.

Apologies for the late response on this!

I did go with the Michelins....and love the setup. Absolutely no issues even after my drop. I've been running these tires for about 2 months now.

[Tekhed2]

Finally got my KW V4s installed on July 3rd. Everything I expected was completely disrupted. I've had coilovers before, but not on an SUV, so I was blown away by the performance and comfort. This feels like the suspension BMW should have equipped the X5M with. We can argue corporate finances and marketing...but in a perfect world, the KW V4s is what they should have equipped this vehicle with.

Quick call out to

1. IND for maintaining great customer service throughout the delivery process. It's a 5 month wait, so anyone looking to purchase, be prepared.

2. Parts Score for the insanely professional install experience. I will be returning to have all my future mods done here.