[JakeJB]

Hello everyone.

I have done quite a bit of searching, and am coming up short. This question may have been answered multiple times, but I can't find it. I purchased a 2008 335xi with 77,000 miles on it. I am familiar with the water pump issue, and am wondering if mine has already been replaced. I have very little history on the car, and the dealer was no help. Is there a brand or defining characteristic that may tell me if my water pump is original or replaced. The one currently in the car is a Continental.

Thank You!

[Bavarian Tech]

Look at the bolt that hold the water pump to the block, if their blue. Its original

[BashShah]

Blue bolts will only tell you if they are OEM bolts or not.
But look at the DIY guides on replacing the water pump and you will notice that the original water pump had rubber grommets that held the bolts.

New pump does not have rubber grommets. Solid metal only.

DN

[JakeJB]

Thank you guys. No blue bolts, and no grommets. Also, stamped on the back, near what I assume is the part number is 16-06-14 Can I assume that is a build date of June 16th 2014?

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by JakeJB

Thank you guys. No blue bolts, and no grommets. Also, stamped on the back, near what I assume is the part number is 16-06-14 Can I assume that is a build date of June 16th 2014?

It's a new pump, congrads, move on.
don't lose sleep over it.

just curious why ask?....did you recent buy the car?
are you exhibiting a problem and trying to rule out a few items?

DN

[JakeJB]

The reason I am asking is that I developed a small coolant leak. I have traced it to the water pump. There is a small 3/4 inch hairline crack in the plastic. I was left with a couple of choices. If the pump is new, I thought I would just JB Weld the crack, and the surrounding area, and re-install it. If it was the original pump, I would replace it. I know most people would say to replace it either way, but it's worth my time to try the repair.

[BashShah]

Jb weld is your current answer.
You are not over heating or have ever?

Also since the pump is tucked in tight, and I am assuming your car has a belly pan.
Then the crack occurred during installation or before installation.

DN

[JakeJB]

No, the car has never overheated. One day I came outside, and saw a puddle under the car. Started it, and began to drive home. The low coolant light came on. I was only a few miles from home, so I kept going. Got home, and checked it. It took about a quart of distilled water. from that point on, I noticed the smell of coolant outside, after driving. No more puddles, but a daily check showed the coolant about a pint down. I assumed that it must be a pressure leak.

Tore everything down, and got the pump and thermostat out. Cleaned the pump, then filled it with water, and sealed off the hose fittings. Set it on a paper towel, and watched it. The crack revealed itself fairly quickly.

I used the JB Weld, and probably much more than I needed to. I have re-installed everything, and I still have a leak. Same general area, but a little higher. I am hoping that it is just a hose, or maybe a hose clamp that wasn't properly placed. Because it's an XI, there is a large cross member, and front drive-train that makes it almost impossible for a decent view of the back side of the pump and thermostat. Very frustrating! Total time for removal and installation was about 4.5 hours. If I have to do it again, I think I can do it closer to 3.

Sorry for the crazy long post. In a story telling mood I guess...

[BashShah]

You have done everything I would have done.

But seriously, if you can do a tear down then do it one more time.
This time replace it.

The amount of time and aggravation this had given you..... not worth it BRO.
I realize you may now know the issue, but it is still a point of failure.

Replace it.

Here is the cheapest place I know and OEM.

IMPORT PARTS DEPOT
contact.importpartzone@gmail.com
855-822-0479

DN

[JakeJB]

I'm inclined to agree with you. Thank you for your help. I will definitely be giving them a call.

[deeLow]

Just curious on what your method is to crack down the time to 3-4 hours.

XI here too, and occasionally getting a tstat code so it's only a matter of time before I have to dig in.

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by deeLow

Just curious on what your method is to crack down the time to 3-4 hours.

XI here too, and occasionally getting a tstat code so it's only a matter of time before I have to dig in.

I don't have an xi but I did my water pump and tstat twice.
The replacement tstat was hamman brand and gave me a cel.
Contacted vendor and he sent me a BEHR brand.
Both are OEM and then no issues.

So I would recommend BEHR brand over HAMMAN brand.

DN

[deeLow]

Originally Posted by DarkNemesis

I don't have an xi but I did my water pump and tstat twice.
The replacement tstat was hamman brand and gave me a cel.
Contacted vendor and he sent me a BEHR brand.
Both are OEM and then no issues.

So I would recommend BEHR brand over HAMMAN brand.

DN

Good to know.

I'm getting 2ef4 or something that says mechanical tstat blah blah blah...it's only tripped cel once and that was in conjunction with another code that I'm assuming was the CEL tripper because it was very cold out and the car took extended warm up time. Said coolant temp below threshold idk something like that... But I know eventually I'll get a constant CEL or the wp will die and then I'll replace them both.

For now though I just check with my Cobb to make sure ECT reaches operating temps which it does just fine. I just dot want to be working on this for 5-6 hours and cursing myself to pieces.

[JakeJB]

Didn't really have e method. I did watch the videos online that show how o replace them both. All of the videos were for the non-XI models. I found out very quickly that they are very different. I took off both front wheels, and completely removed the sway bar, as just pulling it away from the frame did not give me enough room. Beyond that, having the right tools is imperative! Putting clamps back on in the right position, so that you can access them once the hoses are on is a must as well. It took me twice as long to get everything out as it did to get it all back in. I'm sure it will be the same for you with your first time.

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by deeLow

Good to know.

I'm getting 2ef4 or something that says mechanical tstat blah blah blah...it's only tripped cel once and that was in conjunction with another code that I'm assuming was the CEL tripper because it was very cold out and the car took extended warm up time. Said coolant temp below threshold idk something like that... But I know eventually I'll get a constant CEL or the wp will die and then I'll replace them both.

For now though I just check with my Cobb to make sure ECT reaches operating temps which it does just fine. I just dot want to be working on this for 5-6 hours and cursing myself to pieces.

if your car is taking too long to warm up, your Tstat is Jammed...
that is what happened to me.
from cold morning start, your coolant pipes should warm up in appprox 1 min or less.
if it hits 5 min, and still the pipe is kinda cool, or slightly warm...your tstat is jammed.

dont remember the code....but do remember it to be mechanical tstat malfunction.

DN