[KAY-OS]

Hi all. I just recently installed the KW V2 on my m235i. At the moment, I have the rebound level at the KW recommended setting (both front and rear 9 clicks open [from the hardest setting, turn 9 clicks counter-clockwise]). I will have an alignment done in a few days to let the suspensions settle in first.

So far, in the recommended rebound setting, I definitely prefer the KW's over the stock. I felt the stock ride was too brash and too bouncy. The KW's is a little bit more firm, but it doesn't bounce much. I'll get the alignment done and drive it a bit more before giving a more thorough review.

Anyways, I have 3 questions concerning the KW:
1) For those who have the V2, what are your rebound settings? I am thinking of setting the front and rear to 11 clicks open for a more comfortable ride.

2) Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the only way to adjust the rear rebound is to remove the shock??? If so, this definitely sucks. I always thought I could adjust the rebound in the rear without removing the shocks.

3) If I do remove the rear shocks to adjust the rebound, is it necessary to do an alignment again?

Thanks guys in advance. I'll give a more thorough review once I get an alignment done.
Cheers

[SteveInfante]

For the rear shock adjustment I'm pretty sure you should just have to jack the car up and unbolt the top of the shock in order to drop it down enough to reach the adjustment knob in there. Then you can reinstall the top again and tighten it to spec. The lower attachment point hasn't been removed and you haven't adjusted the ride height so there would be no need to have it aligned again. Adjusting the ride height or moving the lower control arm attachment points would change the rear suspension geometry to require another alignment.

[KAY-OS]

Originally Posted by SteveInfante

For the rear shock adjustment I'm pretty sure you should just have to jack the car up and unbolt the top of the shock in order to drop it down enough to reach the adjustment knob in there. Then you can reinstall the top again and tighten it to spec. The lower attachment point hasn't been removed and you haven't adjusted the ride height so there would be no need to have it aligned again. Adjusting the ride height or moving the lower control arm attachment points would change the rear suspension geometry to require another alignment.

Thanks for the info!

BTW, after installation of the KW V2, 2 days later I heard this knocking sound on the front left suspension. I was driving it to the garage, and the sound disappeared. Turns out the nut and bolt for the front suspension that came with the kit fell off! Apparently, the nut is very loose. It can move along the bolt very easily whereas the stock nut requires tools to turn it along the bolt. The garage replaced the nut and bolt with the stock one.
Anyone had the same problem?

[KAY-OS]

After driving with the KW V2 for awhile, it's time for an update.

I drove with the factory recommended rebound setting of 9 clicks open front and rear for a month. At higher speed, it glides over bumps great but at lower speed it was a little stiff and bumpy for everyday drive. And I felt the car was oversteering a bit too easily especially on acceleration out of corners. But the body roll is much improved compared to stock. I guess the recommended factory rebound setting is for factory 18 inch wheel. My wheels are 19inch.

Thus, I softened the front and rear rebound to 11 clicks open. I've driven it with this setting for a month now and I'm very happy with it. It's more comfortable now at lower speeds. Much more comfortable than stock. It's awesome for daily drive on crappy roads. Car feels more neutral out of corners, less tail happy. There is still a bit too much body roll for my liking. I plan to install the H&R anti-roll bars in the near future. The only thing I don't like about it is the need to remove the rear shocks to adjust the rebound. Otherwise, these are great coilovers for daily street use!

[SteveInfante]

Thanks for the update. I had been wondering about this. how did you have your alignment done? Stock spec or did you add some camber to the rear? I know you can't add any to the front without plates or the M4 control arms. I had still been debating on either these, the V3 or the TCKline since they come with camber plates and are around the same price as the V3.

[x233]

Originally Posted by KAY-OS

After driving with the KW V2 for awhile, it's time for an update.

I drove with the factory recommended rebound setting of 9 clicks open front and rear for a month. At higher speed, it glides over bumps great but at lower speed it was a little stiff and bumpy for everyday drive. And I felt the car was oversteering a bit too easily especially on acceleration out of corners. But the body roll is much improved compared to stock. I guess the recommended factory rebound setting is for factory 18 inch wheel. My wheels are 19inch.

Thus, I softened the front and rear rebound to 11 clicks open. I've driven it with this setting for a month now and I'm very happy with it. It's more comfortable now at lower speeds. Much more comfortable than stock. It's awesome for daily drive on crappy roads. Car feels more neutral out of corners, less tail happy. There is still a bit too much body roll for my liking. I plan to install the H&R anti-roll bars in the near future. The only thing I don't like about it is the need to remove the rear shocks to adjust the rebound. Otherwise, these are great coilovers for daily street use!

That's precisely why KW coilovers are not that great: 1) default springs too soft for active or aggressive driving, that swimming feeling, and the thing only gets jittery if you try to harden the shocks too much and 2) you can't tune the rear shocks without having to jack up the car and disconnecting the rear shocks, the fronts have to be accessed with a bit of work, too. Kind of defeats the purpose. Adjustability. Those plastic spring perches bend and can eventually fail. The noises coming from suspension are most likely spring coils hitting one another under compression. Those things are more for looks than function.

Different story with monotube designs such as Bilstein, AST, etc. Handles way better, can take whatever you throw at it, night and day, and a lot easier to adjust. All you have to do is pull over, kneel beside the car and stick your hand under the rear bumper or past the turned front wheel to adjust the rebound and compression, distinct clicks, and you're good to go. Generally less comfortable on bad roads, though. That's what you take to the track, too.

[KAY-OS]

Originally Posted by SteveInfante

Thanks for the update. I had been wondering about this. how did you have your alignment done? Stock spec or did you add some camber to the rear? I know you can't add any to the front without plates or the M4 control arms. I had still been debating on either these, the V3 or the TCKline since they come with camber plates and are around the same price as the V3.

Hi there! Yes. Alignment close to stock.
Here are my alignment specs:
Front left: toe in 0.05
Front right : toe in 0.05
Front camber both sides : -1.0
Rear left : toe in 0.14
Rear right : toe in 0.15
Rear camber both sides : -2.0
Any comments on this alignment?

KW V2 are unable to adjust camber unless u get a kit.
I think it depends on how u drive ur car. For me, I drive it daily on streets, very rarely head to track, and I can't be bothered to play around with multiple settings (I am a set it and forget it guy) so these V2 are good enough for me.
If you need more adjustability, track more often, then i guess you should probably get the V3. Hope this helps!

[KAY-OS]

Originally Posted by x233

That's precisely why KW coilovers are not that great: 1) default springs too soft for active or aggressive driving, that swimming feeling, and the thing only gets jittery if you try to harden the shocks too much and 2) you can't tune the rear shocks without having to jack up the car and disconnecting the rear shocks, the fronts have to be accessed with a bit of work, too. Kind of defeats the purpose. Adjustability. Those plastic spring perches bend and can eventually fail. The noises coming from suspension are most likely spring coils hitting one another under compression. Those things are more for looks than function.

Different story with monotube designs such as Bilstein, AST, etc. Handles way better, can take whatever you throw at it, night and day, and a lot easier to adjust. All you have to do is pull over, kneel beside the car and stick your hand under the rear bumper or past the turned front wheel to adjust the rebound and compression, distinct clicks, and you're good to go. Generally less comfortable on bad roads, though. That's what you take to the track, too.

Hello! I was debating between these KW v2 or the bilstein b16. In the end, I decided on the KW because:
1) I need a more comfortable ride (roads around here are terrible)
2) I can't lower the car too much because of very steep car parks here (Bilsteins are lower than KW at their highest recommended setting).

I was also debating between KW V2 or V3. V3 gives u more adjustability ( rebound, compression) and I think, correct me if I'm wrong, can adjust the front and rear without removing the shocks. I mainly drive it on the streets, and these V2 are quite suitable for me (set and forget) even though it's a pain to adjust the rear rebound.

So I guess there are coilovers for different needs. IMO, these v2 are good for street use. For more hardcore, track use, and those who require more adjustability, I would suggest look at other coilovers eg KW V3 or bilsteins.

[x233]

Comfort-wise, yes, those KWs beat just about everything else. I'm not sure Bilstein would be lower, though. Typically Bilsteins are quite conservative about lowering, unlike KW.