[SeanS54]

Contrary to popular belief you do NOT have to change your oil after every track event.

I used to change my oil after each event but I decided to send my oil in to Blackstone Labs for an analysis. They said the oil was perfect and try doing 3 or 4 more events.

Well I did that. Below is the Oil Analysis report after 3 track events and the oil still looks good. It's only been about 3K total miles on the oil but either way, you do not need to change your oil after every event... at least for our dual purpose HPDE vehicles.

Here's the report:
Oil Analysis by Sean T, on Flickr

[Cloud9blue]

Seems like M1 0w40 is pretty lacking in additives, no?

The count for zinc, molybdenum, and phosphorus is really low for a turbo engine...

You might want to look into some other oils, like Castrol 0w40 or Shell Rotella T6 5w40.

[David0ff]

Use Shell T6 next time, the additive within are way superior to M1

[Ginger_Extract]

What are your temps like on track? Oil is much more happy at 250* for an hour or two on track than 300+...

[SeanS54]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Seems like M1 0w40 is pretty lacking in additives, no?

The count for zinc, molybdenum, and phosphorus is really low for a turbo engine...

You might want to look into some other oils, like Castrol 0w40 or Shell Rotella T6 5w40.

Not sure, I don't understand the additives or elements. I just read their text.

Shell oil?

Originally Posted by David0ff

Use Shell T6 next time, the additive within are way superior to M1

Shell oil? I've seen people recommend Motul and Liqui Moly but not Shell.

Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract

What are your temps like on track? Oil is much more happy at 250* for an hour or two on track than 300+...

I've hit 270+ oil temps and limp mode on several tracks. I just added a huge oil cooler, so that combined with my vented hood, and upgraded Mishimoto radiator I should be golden.

I have a track event next week so we'll see.

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by SeanS54

Not sure, I don't understand the additives or elements. I just read their text.

Shell oil?

Shell oil? I've seen people recommend Motul and Liqui Moly but not Shell.

I've hit 270+ oil temps and limp mode on several tracks. I just added a huge oil cooler, so that combined with my vented hood, and upgraded Mishimoto radiator I should be golden.

I have a track event next week so we'll see.

Zinc and etc. are anti wear agents and that's what prevent your bearings from grinding each other out. Oil companies have been reducing the content of them over the past decade or so in order to reduce emission and enhance the life of the catalytic converters, so you should read up on the virgin oil analysis of some of the current oils to see which one still offer the best additive package along with the best oil base.

Shell T6 is actually surprisingly good oil for our engine and isn't overpriced like the motul stuff. You can spend some time reading the bobistheoilguy forums to get some information.

[SeanS54]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Zinc and etc. are anti wear agents and that's what prevent your bearings from grinding each other out. Oil companies have been reducing the content of them over the past decade or so in order to reduce emission and enhance the life of the catalytic converters, so you should read up on the virgin oil analysis of some of the current oils to see which one still offer the best additive package along with the best oil base.

Shell T6 is actually surprisingly good oil for our engine and isn't overpriced like the motul stuff. You can spend some time reading the bobistheoilguy forums to get some information.

Thanks for the explanation and suggestion. I'm going to look into this before my next oil change.

[spxxx]

T6 ftw

[feuer]

Originally Posted by spxxx

T6 ftw

Yes, T6 absolutely the BEST oil considering how much it cost. Actually, how little it cost. I was able to get 0w-40 T6 for $5 a gallon.

[David0ff]

WHAT?!
Where?!
Damn cunnuck prices are crazy !
~40-45$ / 5L
~$30/ Gal
Throw some over the border please!!!!

[feuer]

Originally Posted by David0ff

WHAT?!
Where?!
Damn cunnuck prices are crazy !
~40-45$ / 5L
~$30/ Gal
Throw some over the border please!!!!

Autozone

[David0ff]

What a joke,
I have to go down and buy 10gal of oil
Thx

[feuer]

Mar 10, 2015 - Receive a $5 per gallon rebate back by mail with the purchase of qualifying Shell Rotella T5 Sythetic. Blend and/or T6 Full Synthetic Heavy.

However, I have a business account and purchase them on the spot for $5 each, sweet deal!

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Zinc and etc. are anti wear agents and that's what prevent your bearings from grinding each other out. Oil companies have been reducing the content of them over the past decade or so in order to reduce emission and enhance the life of the catalytic converters, so you should read up on the virgin oil analysis of some of the current oils to see which one still offer the best additive package along with the best oil base.

Shell T6 is actually surprisingly good oil for our engine and isn't overpriced like the motul stuff. You can spend some time reading the bobistheoilguy forums to get some information.

This is why I add some moly additive with my oil.

I use Liqui Moly.

And to the OP, you just say "track days" on the oil. Better if you could tell us how many hours of track time you did.

We change the oil on our Chump car after every weekend, but that is usually 14 hours of driving, only stopping for 5 mins to refuel every 2 hours.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

We change the oil on our Chump car after every weekend, but that is usually 14 hours of driving, only stopping for 5 mins to refuel every 2 hours.

As somebody who is responsible of maintenance on a fleet of close to 200 units I can say that only additive that works is MotorKote.
But regardless, I'm curious to learn what engine you run that allows you 2h between fill up. Is it a diesel? These n54 if tuned would need fill-up every hour or so.

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by feuer

As somebody who is responsible of maintenance on a fleet of close to 200 units I can say that only additive that works is MotorKote.
But regardless, I'm curious to learn what engine you run that allows you 2h between fill up. Is it a diesel? These n54 if tuned would need fill-up every hour or so.

Yeah, considering I can burn through 40 gallons of e85 with this car in just 6 x 20mins sessions at Road America...

[MightyMouseTech]

The Chump car is a CRX.

Race against a lot of E30 and E46.

[David0ff]

Originally Posted by feuer

As somebody who is responsible of maintenance on a fleet of close to 200 units I can say that only additive that works is MotorKote.
But regardless, I'm curious to learn what engine you run that allows you 2h between fill up. Is it a diesel? These n54 if tuned would need fill-up every hour or so.

I hear that regarding MotorKote from anyone in fleet maintenance.
Good Stuff

[feuer]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

The Chump car is a CRX.
Race against a lot of E30 and E46.

Yes, they are properly quick for the engine size and burn gas as little as Zippo lighter Back in the day, back home I hillclimb against a lot of Civic and Integra Tyre-R's as well as CRX's know as De Sol here in US.

[SeanS54]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

And to the OP, you just say "track days" on the oil. Better if you could tell us how many hours of track time you did.

We change the oil on our Chump car after every weekend, but that is usually 14 hours of driving, only stopping for 5 mins to refuel every 2 hours.

3 track days, 4 x 20 min sessions - about 4 hours of track driving.

The Shell T6 is diesel oil. That's what you guys put into your N54 Engine?

[David0ff]

Originally Posted by SeanS54

3 track days, 4 x 20 min sessions - about 4 hours of track driving.

The Shell T6 is diesel oil. That's what you guys put into your N54 Engine?

Yup

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by SeanS54

3 track days, 4 x 20 min sessions - about 4 hours of track driving.

The Shell T6 is diesel oil. That's what you guys put into your N54 Engine?

Modern diesel oils are formulated for direct injections (against fuel dilution) and turbo lubrication, while being able to withstand high heat and high shear environment. So in some ways, they are prefect for our engines.