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      02-20-2016, 10:15 PM   #1
StarMan
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How to take the front strut out?!

Today i was wanting to install my H&R spring, but could not for the life of me get that strut out. I was able to unbolt it from the top and got it loose, but i simply could not get it out from the bottom. Is there a special tool i need? I could not find a DIY and the F30 seems a bit different.
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      02-20-2016, 10:43 PM   #2
Cloud IX
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When it's ready to come out (after you remove the wheel, all bolts top and bottom) I would just step on the wheel hub to lower the suspension to give you the room to remove it. This works much better with 2 people. =D
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      02-20-2016, 10:54 PM   #3
StarMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud IX View Post
When it's ready to come out (after you remove the wheel, all bolts top and bottom) I would just step on the wheel hub to lower the suspension to give you the room to remove it. This works much better with 2 people. =D
Okay, will def. need a friend to come over and help then, i moved it down, but didn't want to put too much force (was afraid something would break).


I noticed the top strut has a Nut with a Torx insert at the top of the strut to remove the spring (i have the spring compressor on standby). I was just going to use an impact to take it out, or is a special tool needed to remove that Nut\Torx out?
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      02-21-2016, 02:13 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starvmarv View Post
Okay, will def. need a friend to come over and help then, i moved it down, but didn't want to put too much force (was afraid something would break).


I noticed the top strut has a Nut with a Torx insert at the top of the strut to remove the spring (i have the spring compressor on standby). I was just going to use an impact to take it out, or is a special tool needed to remove that Nut\Torx out?
If you use an impact you usually don't need the Torx. It's there to stop it from spinning. Whenever I've done it with an impact, I've never needed to use it. If you don't have an impact you put in the torx to keep it from spinning while using hand tools.

Don't worry about it breaking, if it does, you probably saved your life because there was some defect. lol. Imagine how much force goes into the suspension from driving, and how much force you could make. Worlds apart.
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      02-21-2016, 10:42 AM   #5
StarMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud IX View Post
If you use an impact you usually don't need the Torx. It's there to stop it from spinning. Whenever I've done it with an impact, I've never needed to use it. If you don't have an impact you put in the torx to keep it from spinning while using hand tools.

Don't worry about it breaking, if it does, you probably saved your life because there was some defect. lol. Imagine how much force goes into the suspension from driving, and how much force you could make. Worlds apart.
Agh, makes perfect sense! Round 2 coming up. Thanks a Bunch Cloud IX
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      02-21-2016, 12:59 PM   #6
rwalker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starvmarv View Post
Today i was wanting to install my H&R spring, but could not for the life of me get that strut out. I was able to unbolt it from the top and got it loose, but i simply could not get it out from the bottom. Is there a special tool i need? I could not find a DIY and the F30 seems a bit different.
I disconnect the bottom first, and use a rubber mallet to get the suspension to full droop, which leaves the strut hanging from the body.

Impact wrenches are contra-indicated by instructions from vendors for camber plates. Use a
6mm allen wrench to hold the strut shank while you loosen with an 18mm hollow socket or O2 sensor wrench.

I have something like this that helps a lot:

http://www.sears.com/gearwrench-8946...&blockType=G17
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      02-21-2016, 09:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwalker View Post
I disconnect the bottom first, and use a rubber mallet to get the suspension to full droop, which leaves the strut hanging from the body.

Impact wrenches are contra-indicated by instructions from vendors for camber plates. Use a
6mm allen wrench to hold the strut shank while you loosen with an 18mm hollow socket or O2 sensor wrench.

I have something like this that helps a lot:

http://www.sears.com/gearwrench-8946...&blockType=G17
? The OP is talking about camber plates? Thought we were talking about springs.
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      02-21-2016, 10:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud IX View Post
? The OP is talking about camber plates? Thought we were talking about springs.
You need to remove the strut and top nut in either case. I've only offered that instructions I've seen recommend against using an impact wrench.
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      02-22-2016, 12:56 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwalker View Post
You need to remove the strut and top nut in either case. I've only offered that instructions I've seen recommend against using an impact wrench.
Yeah but in his case it's fine.
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      02-23-2016, 09:52 PM   #10
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You really do not have to take the strut out to swap the springs.

You can undo the top nut, disconnect sway bar and if your strong enough you can push the strut down to clear the fender angling the assmbley back towards the door. I have done it many times, I just put a little painters tape on the fender to protect the paint if I mess up, never happens though, I'm just that good (lucky).
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      02-25-2016, 09:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pparana View Post
You really do not have to take the strut out to swap the springs.

You can undo the top nut, disconnect sway bar and if your strong enough you can push the strut down to clear the fender angling the assmbley back towards the door. I have done it many times, I just put a little painters tape on the fender to protect the paint if I mess up, never happens though, I'm just that good (lucky).
I highly advise against this method. No wonder you tore your spring pad.
Not trying to put you on blast, just trying to save another member from damaging their car.

http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1168862
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      02-25-2016, 10:51 PM   #12
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I am postponing the spring installation. Glad i couldn't figure it out last weekend after reading a few things about H&R springs + stock shocks on here.

I like the stock height, i just hate the wheel gap (maybe should have gone with 19" wheels to fill the gap haha). Anyway i have screened shot this post in the event i go with Dinan Springs with Bump stop combo.
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      02-26-2016, 12:46 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud IX View Post
I highly advise against this method. No wonder you tore your spring pad.
Not trying to put you on blast, just trying to save another member from damaging their car.

http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1168862
The spring is not under any tension, and you can remove the boot first if you desire but not needed. Your pushing in the strut maybe 5mm not the spring, unless your superhuman, then you could compress the spring I suppose. It's actually very simple and way less invasive than taking the strut out. I can swap the front springs, bump stops on both sides in under 20 minutes once the car is in the air. Geometry is your friend.

Last edited by Pparana; 02-26-2016 at 01:12 AM..
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      02-26-2016, 12:53 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud IX View Post
? The OP is talking about camber plates? Thought we were talking about springs.
He is talking about the top strut nut, yes you should never use a impact gun on that, or any of the suspension bolts under shaft dia of 18mm. Use a pass through wrench and an Allen key. Torque specs are only 22ft pads on the strut top nut. No need for impact.
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      02-28-2016, 02:13 AM   #15
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I installed koni yellows with h&r springs yesterday. The front was a breeze.. but the rear!

I took the original shock and spring out ok, by removing the lower wishbone outer nut.. but couldn't get that bolt/realigned again to refit.

Any tips? I guess another arm needs removing to allow the hub to straighten enough for the bolt to go right through?

Btw, in case you've not read the other thread.. my h&r springs came with h&r bump stops!

Thanks, Richard

Last edited by Richy_Boy; 02-28-2016 at 02:24 AM..
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      02-29-2016, 04:52 PM   #16
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you can use a jack to put some pressure on the spring, just be careful not to pinch the bushing. Make sure the spring perch rubber pads are properly aligned before bolting up.
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