[thenewrick]

Hi, so my wastegates rattled as normal.

I tried the springs trick and that actually reduced the rattle substantially but then I started getting engine malfunction limp mode at high rpm.

I removed them and the rattle actually didn't come back right away. But I still got the engine malfunction at high rpm.

Then I tried adjusted the actuator rod by tightening/loosening and that didn't seem to do anything.

So now I have some rattle back, and I have the engine malfunction limp mode at high rpm.

I'm a little at a loss because no codes to read. It just doesn't like going high rpm. It also goes into limp mode maybe 1 in 4 times when going high rpm.

My guess is maybe the actuator rod was damaged by the springs?

So, things brings me to what to do now.

I'm thinking the turbos are just damaged beyond repair and I may need to replace them.

I kind of want to do one last check of the systems to make sure there isn't anything else going on.

Is there some type of DIY for evaluating the turbo and boosting systems before just replacing the turbos? Perhaps test the wastegates somehow and the vacuum lines?

Also, I've seeing varying prices and descriptions for oem turbos. Is there an inexpensive solution to replacing both with the fixed units so they won't rattle and are very reliable?

Should I be worried about blowing up the car when I replace the turbos or is it a fairly straight-forward install?

Thanks all for your thoughtful responses.

[335NJ]

What are the codes?

[MM Performance]

Here's how to test them. Pull off the downpipes. Put a mighty vac pump or similar on the WG actuator and pull vacuum on the WG actuator. The valve should close at 5.5" Hg reading on the guage. If it doesn't, adjust the actuator rod to get it to close to spec. This should get rid of your rattle and also your limp mode. Pull up to 25" with the pump to test for leaks, vac should not drop, if it does the actuator is leaking. Also pull 25" on all the tubing connected to the actuator from tubing connections to the main vac pump line to the actuator to test for any leaks there also. Report back with results.

[MM Performance]

FYI I don't think you can adjust the actuator right on the front turbo without pulling the turbo off....I may be wrong though.

[thenewrick]

It doesn't throw any codes which is the frustrating part. The limp mode will often just go away after 30 seconds.

I'll forward this to my mechanic and do a handful of these tests before I pull the trigger on a $4k+ full turbo replacement.

Keep the advice coming!

[mankytron]

Originally Posted by thenewrick

It doesn't throw any codes which is the frustrating part. The limp mode will often just go away after 30 seconds.

I'll forward this to my mechanic and do a handful of these tests before I pull the trigger on a $4k+ full turbo replacement.

Keep the advice coming!

There should be a code even if its not active. You may just need a bmw compatible scanner to read them. You need to have wastegate operation/adjustment checked as other poster said before thinking about turbo replacement.

[mankytron]

Originally Posted by MM Performance

FYI I don't think you can adjust the actuator right on the front turbo without pulling the turbo off....I may be wrong though.

You can do it on the car by shimming the actuator. I just did this and snapped a few pics, will try to post up soon.

[thenewrick]

I have the JB4 code reader. That wont work?