[tryingtobebest]

Hi everyone i know i didn't do my INTRODUCTION thread but need few questions answered ASAP

#1 Where to get larger (bottom) turbo "compressor bypass vacuum actuator" hose from? Can i use some other ones, whats the best place to get them from? Its the LOOONG bastard)





#2 My Swirl flaps had to be taken out of intake manifold as a set, am i missing something? Can i cut out that little nipple that prevents PIN to be taken out of each one of them?






#3 How to put car into neutral (Push around) with battery connected/ disconnected and all the manifold stuff being out?

#4 If i were to ROUTE boost line and some wiring from under the hood area into a cabin what would be a best spot to do it?


EDIT added one more question

Q5 Does anyone know a place who sells intake manifold seals kit? *( 6+6+1+1) for a good price?

[DozerDan82]

The tear you see in the vac line is not the line just the sheathing around it.

You should be able you push the whole pin out on the swirl flaps.

[WreckerX5d]

You need to pop off the shift boot in order to put the car into neutral on a disconnected battery. There's a small switch that you move and it'll give free reign to the shifting. They have a video on YouTube about it as well.

[335dlci]

To answer question 4, There is a rubber boot under the drivers side and I believe the passenger side of the dash. There is some wiring in other parts of the boot. You can see the boot if you remove the cover for the brake fluid reservoir. I used a coat hanger and zip ties to run my methanol line and wiring through that boot.

[WreckerX5d]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

To answer question 4, There is a rubber boot under the drivers side and I believe the passenger side of the dash. There is some wiring in other parts of the boot. You can see the boot if you remove the cover for the brake fluid reservoir. I used a coat hanger and zip ties to run my methanol line and wiring through that boot.

On the inside and back of the DME box has the routing for the passenger footwell.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

The tear you see in the vac line is not the line just the sheathing around it.

You should be able you push the whole pin out on the swirl flaps.

The line that shows the tears is probably ok as had been mentioned. But also it is not the wastegate one. It's the red one that goes from EUV out back to the compressor bypass vacuum actuator at the front.

[tryingtobebest]

Thank you very much to everyone that is participated, will use your answers as a guide!
On my swirl flaps, i didn't like the idea of taking all those rods out so i cut the ends of them!



NOW, one more questions, not sure if all my intake gaskets are dry or they are suppose to be kinda hard rubber, so,

Q5 Does anyone know a place who sells intake manifold seals kit? *( 6+6+1+1) for a good price?

[Yozh]

Go Husker AutoParts. You will have to pick them individually. They do not have a kit and they are a bit slow. If you want it tomorrow then dealer is your best bet. Other sources are getbmwparts.com and ECS.

[BB_cuda]

+1 for Husker. Normally about 4 days from Nebraska to Houston. Closely inspect for other areas of boost leak. You might as well get other seals for future needs. It's a matter of time for the red hose seal. Get your money's worth for the $12 shipping cost. I got a couple oil filter kits last time too. Fuel filter maybe too if you're up for that DIY

[Hoooper]

rockauto.com had the best price for some of the intake gaskets, and not for some of the others. When I bought gaskets last (throttle gasket, EGR gasket, and intake manifold gaskets) I got all the intake manifold gaskets from rockauto and the other gaskets from Husker as that was the cheapest way to do it.

[BB_cuda]

Concerning post #7, I've never had to cut anything to get swirl flaps disconnected from the actuating rod.

Tryingtobebest, I'm frankly confused why you needed to cut unless your rod's pegs are somehow not same. I have two different intakes with same rod that didn't need to have the little pegs cut. My pegs just poke through the slots on the swirl flaps and rod is held to intake by captive plastic slots molded into the intake.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

You should be able you push the whole pin out on the swirl flaps.

I agree

[tryingtobebest]

Once again THANKS to everyone, i really like this community even though i have rare DIESEL), totally forget to check rockauto, i bought stuff from them before and everything about them is just great, especially if it has to be shipped to Canada!

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Concerning post #7, I've never had to cut anything to get swirl flaps disconnected from the actuating rod.

Tryingtobebest, I'm frankly confused why you needed to cut unless your rod's pegs are somehow not same. I have two different intakes with same rod that didn't need to have the little pegs cut. My pegs just poke through the slots on the swirl flaps and rod is held to intake by captive plastic slots molded into the intake.

Ok, they are not rods, i called them wrong in my previous posts, i think better name for them is PINS. Yes you are correct rod holds in 3 places (*captive plastic slots) underneath the manifold. The ROD has 6 pins (for each swirl flap) and those pins have caps/nipples/bulge in the end that you cant take swirl flap out simply (first post pic), also this PINS looks like they are spot welded from top or something else, after cutting this nipples i tried to hammer one out (GENTLY) with no success! Im sure that the way i cut them is fine.
My manifold was replaced under warranty by previous owner, and date of manufacture stamped on manifold is APRIL 2012, maybe this gotta do something with this design!

[tryingtobebest]

Once again thanks for a ROCKAUTO reminder, im currently ordering stuff (gaskets + thermostat etc) from them BUT they have "BECK/ARNLEY 0431080" as a fuel water separator and "MAHLE / CLEVITE KL579D & MANN WK5001" as simple fuel filters, so, i was wondering

Q#6 What is the preferred fuel filter for THE "D"?

I got one ordered with glow plugs and other stuff from FCP euro but havent installed it yet, it is Genuine OEM filter, but was thinking ordering couple more!

[335dlci]

OEM, MANN or MAHLE.

[BB_cuda]

There is a good thread called something like "Don't fear the fuel filter" that delved into different part numbers. I personally compared the 579D and the 519 parts as I purchased both. I have been running the 579D Mahle part since Christmas. I posted the comparison photo either in thread I mention above or another fuel system related one. Hope this helps. I can't comment on the 5001 filter but the threads do.

[JOHNNYBRAVO1]

I know this has been touched, but don't know what the final outcome was. I now cleaned the whole PITA manifold intake ports and swirls. I have the block off plates and I know they use them a lot in Europe. I know they stop a lot of carbon gunk. But I do have the ABC delete and BPC tune. Is it worth installing the plates or regular readers use the swirls.. by deleting the swirls won't it stop a lot of air flow from getting into the intake?

[BB_cuda]

Swirl flap blanking plates do the opposite of what you say. The rectangular ports (called tangential ports) will flow continuously if you install the blanks. The blanks bolt up same way as the swirl but nothing pokes into the flow paths like with the OEM swirls. Go to eBay add and some of the blanking plate auctions have installation video. You'll see what I mean.

[JOHNNYBRAVO1]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Swirl flap blanking plates do the opposite of what you say. The rectangular ports (called tangential ports) will flow continuously if you install the blanks. The blanks bolt up same way as the swirl but nothing pokes into the flow paths like with the OEM swirls. Go to eBay add and some of the blanking plate auctions have installation video. You'll see what I mean.

BB thankyou for clearing that up, is it worth me to just go ahead and use the blank plates and disconnect the swirl port rod?

[BB_cuda]

I can't personally attest to if better to stay with stock parts or go with the aftermarket plates. I've read people say low end performance was affected and also read others that put banks on and no negative impact. Forum member Callahan said he liked the blanks. He is in UK. Not sure if there would be a different reaction to blanks on a North American car. Seems I recall NA member giving a thumbs up though. Don't take that as a thumbs up from me.

[335dsleeper]

I think the tuners set the flaps to be open all the time.

[JOHNNYBRAVO1]

Guess i'm sticking with open. Thankyou for your help BB well appreciated and of course sleeper