[CO335D]

Hey all,

Now, before we start... I am aware that circuit werks makes a relatively cheap exhaust. Having said that, I am still a little disappointed. I had the banned one make me a modified mid pipe so that I could run the 335i version of circuit werks exhaust. Unfortunately, this crap hasn't made it through 2 months of a winter in CO without showing signs of rust. The tips are cheap, so I expected those to rust, and have already purchased some powder coated tips to replace them with. My main beef is with the mufflers. They are still visible under the car, and the rust looks like shit...

Anyone else that is running Circuit Werks exhaust notice any rust (surface or otherwise) after this winter?

Any suggestions on something I could coat this exhaust with to avoid further rust?

[BB_cuda]

Salt or other chemicals used on CO roads during winter? I see a little bit orange on mid pipe area but have been able to wipe it off with windex or other cleaner. I don't have CW mufflers nor tips. I was told the CW is 304L SS tubing but don't have direct evidence. Is all of the exhaust rusting or just muffs and tips?

I last looked closely around Christmas so I will have a look again. Can you perhaps snap a couple pics and post them please?

[32valves]

how do I aquire that same y pipe to fit my dp to that same exhaust? not to hijack your thread....
Doesn't the exhaust have a warranty?

[CO335D]

They do salt and mag chloride the roads here, but I thought I've been pretty good about washing that crap off after it snows. I guess not. I haven't had the car up in a while to check out the underside. I'm guessing it's just as rusty if not worse up further. I think Jess's pipe was made out of better material, so it should be fine.

[32valves]

is your custom piece similar to this?

[CO335D]

Originally Posted by 32valves

is your custom piece similar to this?

Yeah, it's similar. However, if I were you, I would wait until the dp back exhaust kit is finished and just buy that. Will be better quality than circuit werks and fit better in my opinion.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by CO335D

They do salt and mag chloride the roads here, but I thought I've been pretty good about washing that crap off after it snows. I guess not. I haven't had the car up in a while to check out the underside. I'm guessing it's just as rusty if not worse up further. I think Jess's pipe was made out of better material, so it should be fine.

Is all of the exhaust rusting or just muffs and tips?

[CO335D]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Is all of the exhaust rusting or just muffs and tips?

See post #4

[iaknown]

Just talked to Circuit Werks. Their exhausts are 201 stainless which is very similar to 304. That being said, any 304/201 SS exhaust WILL surface rust and oxidize over time, especially when subjected to the high salinity environments like salt-brined roads. The stuff they put on roads these days is horrible. Keep in mind it is just surface rust though. Be glad you don't have a 400 series exhaust if rust is a peeve of yours

Regardless, CW sells over 100 exhausts a year with almost no complaints, definitely no issues with anything rusting through.

You could coat your tips with soot, then they won't rust

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by iaknown

Just talked to the Circuit Werks. Their exhausts are 201 stainless which is very similar to 304. That being said, any 304/201 SS exhaust WILL surface rust and oxidize over time, especially when subjected to the high salinity environments like salt-brined roads. The stuff they put on roads these days is horrible. Keep in mind it is just surface rust though. Be glad you don't have a 400 series exhaust if rust is a peeve of yours

Regardless, CW sells over 100 exhausts a year with almost no complaints, definitely no issues with anything rusting through.

You could coat your tips with soot, then they won't rust

Custom back pieces of my exhaust are 316L. They look shiny in comparison to the 304/201 you speak of. Way more pricey though. 316L is the "work horse of petro chemical industry" an old timer told me.

[tek4tex]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Custom back pieces of my exhaust are 316L. They look shiny in comparison to the 304/201 you speak of. Way more pricey though. 316L is the "work horse of petro chemical industry" an old timer told me.

316L is the standard for all marine applications because of it's ability to resist corrosion from salt. It's the standard for all textile dyeing equipment as well.

[32valves]

Originally Posted by CO335D

Yeah, it's similar. However, if I were you, I would wait until the dp back exhaust kit is finished and just buy that. Will be better quality than circuit werks and fit better in my opinion.

I still want that why pipe for now, I can always sell the exhaust to a gasser 335, cause the diesels are few where I'm at.
So who, what, and when do I get that y pipe?

[BB_cuda]

Y pipe is made using the two forward pipes from circuit werks kit. About 1st forward 8" of each front pipe is cut off and a 1 into 2 collector welded on. In my case, 8" of 3" was welded on forward of the collector and of course 3" flange.
What I'm trying to say is there is no going back to gasser config unless you get 2 more forward pipes from circuit werks.

off topic. is it even worth messing with putting another exhaust on bmw diesel!? coz they sound like crap whether stock or pdf off, it doesn't matter, bmw will still sound like a tractor in comparison to audi's diesels...i said this before, and now i saw another audi, which puts our bmw's to shame....

[u2b]https://youtu.be/NFNXjk6zcVw[/u2b]

[rulonger]

Originally Posted by Martin80k

... coz they sound like crap whether stock or dpf off, it doesn't matter, bmw will still sound like a tractor in comparison to audi's diesels...i said this before, and now i saw another audi, which puts our bmw's to shame....

Martin80k, I believe that we should start a gofundme campaign for you so that you can sell the BMW and finally buy the Audi you always wanted. I am sure that many of the forum members here would chip in. Before we start, we will need a funding target ...

Jokes aside, if you want exhaust note you should buy an American V8 or one of those European V10s.

[BB_cuda]

Good friend of mine has an xray analyzer for getting chemical content of SS. First picture shows % of elements. At top of display, it says no match. It has preloaded in it many varieties of materials. He has a certified 316 specimen that we checked analyzer with before shooting the circuit werks tubing. It if course said 316 for this sample he had. For CW tubing check, it did flash up 201 SS but then reverted to the "no match" at end of run. We looked up 201 and the percentages are close. So, we have verified iaknown's earlier statement. We kept hunting and found 201 is similar to 301 SS.

2nd pic is the cut of CW forward pipe that we took xrays shots on. We started on the OD but eventually also shot up inside just to see if there was any difference and there wasn't.

Interestingly, we also shot the flange and got a weird result. Forward flange was high % nickel (>80%) and the flange was magnetic. The tubing isn't magnetic even though its 73% Fe. 201 SS isn't magnetic in its austenitic form. Anyway, we now know the reason a CW kit can be had for $500 on ebay.

[iaknown]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Good friend of mine has an xray analyzer for getting chemical content of SS. First picture shows % of elements. At top of display, it says no match. It has preloaded in it many varieties of materials. He has a certified 316 specimen that we checked analyzer with before shooting the circuit werks tubing. It if course said 316 for this sample he had. For CW tubing check, it did flash up 201 SS but then reverted to the "no match" at end of run. We looked up 201 and the percentages are close. So, we have verified iaknown's earlier statement. We kept hunting and found 201 is similar to 301 SS.

2nd pic is the cut of CW forward pipe that we took xrays shots on. We started on the OD but eventually also shot up inside just to see if there was any difference and there wasn't.

Interestingly, we also shot the flange and got a weird result. Forward flange was high % nickel (>80%) and the flange was magnetic. The tubing isn't magnetic even though its 73% Fe. 201 SS isn't magnetic in its austenitic form. Anyway, we now know the reason a CW kit can be had for $500 on ebay.

Very cool piece of equipment. I've heard what those units cost

Sounds like it's a weird mix based on 201 then, huh?