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      04-11-2016, 01:53 PM   #1
locolobo
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Suddenly, cranks but no start

I am right now sitting in my car waiting for the tow truck. The car has a brand new battery. I started a different thread about a weird problem with the clock not holding time even after coding the battery properly and fully charging. I drove downtown this morning with no problems and after a couple hours came back to the car and it cranks fine but won't start. While I've been sitting here waiting I took the cowling off and checked all the ECU connections everything's fine. There are no fault codes stored. Any ideas?
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      04-11-2016, 02:01 PM   #2
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I made a thread about this. Possible causes:

Fuel pump relay module (it's behind the passenger side rear seat bolster)
Fuel pump.
If tuned/no DP, no DEF in tank and hit 0 miles to no start.
Fuel rail maulfunction.
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      04-11-2016, 02:11 PM   #3
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Well I guess when I get it home I will start checking fuel system components. There are no stored codes. And there is distilled water in the scr tank. While I'm sitting here I will go back and read your other thread on the subject.
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      04-11-2016, 02:23 PM   #4
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So I went back and read the other thread. Now I remember reading this before. I'm starting to think that the water in my urea tank isn't maintaining a sufficient Connection for the ECU and he thought the tank was empty. Of course I don't have any spare urea with me so I will still have to have the car towed. I wonder if this also explains the secondary water pump codes I was getting. And yet, I never got a warning that it was no start in a certain number of miles
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      04-11-2016, 03:26 PM   #5
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Loco, tune or no tune in your ECU?
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      04-11-2016, 04:42 PM   #6
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BB_Cuda, it has the BPC stage 2+ tune. I just got it home and into the garage. I drained the urea tanks which had methanol and distilled water, and filled with some fresh urea to try and rule out the no-start due to no urea. So far no luck, but it may still be detecting the distilled water. I have pulled the rear seat and fuel relay cover, going to start looking there now.
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      04-11-2016, 05:37 PM   #7
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I have had this problem before, I think I might've been the first. It even happened recently where it wouldn't start for about five minutes.

The dealership treated it like it was a fuel pump problem and I think that he replaced the low-pressure fuel pump

However, after returning home I found that the car had a code that showed later on for crankshaft RPM sensor
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      04-11-2016, 09:19 PM   #8
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I would run a fuel line from the front of the filter into a bucket and check for fuel flow WHILE you crank the engine. If nothing I would suspect the High Pressure pump.
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      04-12-2016, 12:14 AM   #9
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I find it strange that you guys are running tuned and still with urea tanks filled with whatever liquid you choose. Thought that was fixed already.

Locolobo, have you tried hot-wiring the low pressure fuel pump to make sure that works, then do what blowing smoke has mentioned, will rule out a bad fuel pump module. Although, cranking dry is not a great idea. Then you are looking at hpfp.
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      04-12-2016, 07:33 AM   #10
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Try disconnecting the 3 fuses that Bob has mentioned under his Q&A post.

"You need to remove 3 fuses that control the sensors in the tank.

35 & 58 from the fuse panel inside the car

05, its located inside the ebox in the little white fuse holder"

Maybe this will rule out a 999mi no start error with your car.
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      04-12-2016, 09:03 AM   #11
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If you want to rule out the urea, I believe the passive tank needs to be filled until its full so the full sensor registers and resets. Just an idea.....
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      04-12-2016, 02:53 PM   #12
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The 3 specified fuses were pulled before the tuned DDE was installed. I also first drained 2 1/2 gallons urea and put in about 3 gallons solution of distilled water and methanol before installing the DDE.

Immediately on installation of the coded DDE, and then removing the keyfob, I began receiving warnings for loss of power to the instrument cluster, after each key removal clock resets to 00:00:00 in yellow, and sets reported high battery drain code. Replaced and coded the 8 year old battery but the cluster was still losing its memory. But the car was driveable.

I will now measure the battery drain and see what (and where) it actually is. I also have had codes for bad connection on the auxiliary water pump (REST) and starter. Checked both and found no problem. Never had a problem with high battery drain before coding.

And it was not low on DEF before coding either - I too thought the Urea level sensor was coded out, but maybe not so I just put in 4 liters back in the active tank and 2 in the passive tank to see if that fixes it. It didn't so far. I will add some more just in case tonight.

I uncovered the fuel pump relay under the rear seat but haven't touched it yet. I didn't see any burnt wires. I plan to test everything I can. Harmonic balancer looks OK and charges battery OK.

Until yesterday the car ran perfectly right into a parking garage except for the cluster issue and I was thinking IBS or maybe battery coding problem (maybe it still is one of those). It's frustrating all this happens after getting my tune and now I can't drive the car at all \

As a side note the tow truck wouldn't fit in the parking garage and so I got to coast down the 3 stories of ramps and through the cashier booth under gravity drive.
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      04-12-2016, 02:54 PM   #13
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Thanks Iaknown I will try that first thing when I get home
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      04-12-2016, 05:18 PM   #14
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To be sure. Keep trying to start it. If its like mine it may be intermittent
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      04-12-2016, 05:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blowinsmoke
I would run a fuel line from the front of the filter into a bucket and check for fuel flow WHILE you crank the engine. If nothing I would suspect the High Pressure pump.
You mean the low pressure pump, or associated power supply
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      04-12-2016, 06:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeatherM35d View Post
You mean the low pressure pump, or associated power supply
Yeah, wouldn't that line be pre hp pump?
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      04-12-2016, 07:01 PM   #17
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Update, after sitting all day with battery tender on, car set 3 codes just by sitting still:
A6CF Internal Sensor Error K-Lin 6xAUC, A6D1 Secondary Water pump positive short or open circuit, A559 Instrument Cluster shutdown. This time, no battery discharge warning though.

I checked the low pressure fuel pump leads and they are powered on when the car is cranking. So relay must be good, but LP pump could possibly be bad. Next I will check the resistance there. Does anyone know the proper value? Fuel filter is relatively new.

Tanks are now full of urea. Still no start. I will be sending the ECU to BPC for updating and we'll see if that fixes anything.

Something is shutting down power to the instrument cluster by just sitting, even when the battery is not discharging.
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      04-12-2016, 08:15 PM   #18
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Wow it seems like everyone has the Secondary water pump code active. Its a long shot, but maybe there is a short somewhere?
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      04-12-2016, 08:21 PM   #19
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Sorry I meant if you DO get fuel at the filter while cranking, then I think its likely a HPFP. I doubt you would hurt the HPFP in the 2 seconds it would take to check for fuel flow at the filter. It could also be the fuel rail pressure regulator if there is good flow at the filter. Is there any chance someone put gasoline in it? It happens to Diesel owners sometimes when someone borrows the car.

Last edited by blowinsmoke; 04-12-2016 at 08:31 PM..
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      04-12-2016, 10:25 PM   #20
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No chance of gasoline, at least not for the last 35k miles I have owned it. Definitely no gas in there now.
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      04-13-2016, 08:13 AM   #21
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I had the same symptoms a couple of years ago. It turned out the in the tank fuel pump aka lift pump or low pressure pump was bad. It was really a PITA as it was an intermittent electrical issue kind of bad. Oddly enough it usually happened to me when I would be at the diesel fuel pump. More than a couple of times I pulled into the station to get a fill-up and it would crank over but would not turn start. I contributed to a thread somewhere about this. Car cranked over but would never start. It seemed to me at the time like the battery was the culprit as well, and I replaced a 3 year old battery for no apparent reason, it was not the issue.

Related thread below.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1221553
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      04-20-2016, 07:02 PM   #22
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I received my DDE back today from BPC with the bug fixed program and power updates and the car started right up. He recommended INPA to recode my battery, and cleared the coding I had set using the Carly app. We'll see how this goes.
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