[Hockey13]

I'm trying to replace my vacuum lines but I can't find any helpful info. I've done a couple short ones by cutting the tube and peeling off as to not break the "nips". importantly I want to do the red line but can't seem to get enough room to work. I can barely see let alone feel where it attaches in the rear of the engine. hose #14 in the image on the linked page. After that I want to do hose #11 and the two that go over the top to lower passenger side hoses #9 (long ones).

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_4225

I'm using inner diameter 3.5mm silicone lines.

(2011 335d M-Sport)

Any advice and tip and even better how - to appreciated! !

[Lexx.md]

As usually on diesels it is a tricky part.

I was trying to replace without seeing it with no luck.

I had to unbolt plate with vacuum tank, and sensors, there are 4 - 10mm bolts inside plastic, not one you can see, one of them is completely pain in the ass to remove.
That one i even put in garbage and left just 3 bolts.

Also as precaution i would say inspect and may be replace hose on Exhaust Pressure sensor.

[Hockey13]

Originally Posted by Lexx.md

As usually on diesels it is a tricky part.

I was trying to replace without seeing it with no luck.

I had to unbolt plate with vacuum tank, and sensors, there are 4 - 10mm bolts inside plastic, not one you can see, one of them is completely pain in the ass to remove.
That one i even put in garbage and left just 3 bolts.

Also as precaution i would say inspect and may be replace hose on Exhaust Pressure sensor.

Thanks for the insight! to clarify, the 10 mm bolts 2 of which are visible on top of the engine that hold a bracket? between the oil cap and breather thing (looks like another cap)?

[Lexx.md]

Originally Posted by Hockey13

Thanks for the insight! to clarify, the 10 mm bolts 2 of which are visible on top of the engine that hold a bracket? between the oil cap and breather thing (looks like another cap)?

These 2 bolts holds the bracket, and you do not have to remove them, or you can but it will not help as there other bolts in the back which you will not be able to remove.

[Hockey13]

okay, so the bolts your referring to are recessed into the plastic part; in like 1"ish long tunnels?

[Lexx.md]

I am wrong, there are 3 bolts recessed deep inside.

Here the picture from the top, and you can also see the damage made by a burned hose, which cost 50 cents, and makes more troubles than should.

[Hockey13]

Very helpful! I will definitely check out the hose. Once the bolts are out, do you have to completely remove the black bracket or whatever it is; or can you leave everything attached to it and just move it for space?

Sorry about all of the questions.

[Lexx.md]

Originally Posted by Hockey13

Very helpful! I will definitely check out the hose. Once the bolts are out, do you have to completely remove the black bracket or whatever it is; or can you leave everything attached to it and just move it for space?

Sorry about all of the questions.

I believe i have just moved it out of the way, still you will not be able to see where the red hose goes, but you can touch and replace it.

I had to remove it just now, to replace even it works fine with my fix, and also i am going thru DPF removal.

[Hockey13]

sweet! I have about 10000mi. Til I'm out of warranty/June then I plan of doing the delete of everything. I've been using an xacto knife to cut and peel the lines off... hopefully there will be enough space... what technique did you use?

[Lexx.md]

Originally Posted by Hockey13

sweet! I have about 10000mi. Til I'm out of warranty/June then I plan of doing the delete of everything. I've been using an xacto knife to cut and peel the lines off... hopefully there will be enough space... what technique did you use?

I was puling out one piece of tube, use it as template to cut the new one, and put it back.

[CvilleBill]

Here are some pictures of where the red hose goes:

[Hockey13]

You just pulled the tube off? without breaking anything?

so far I've sliced the lines and kind of peeled them off then cut new ones y he same length. This is all I've done as I got frustrated with the red line and can't afford to break anything as I have work in a day or so.

[Hockey13]

photos are so helpful! I now see the nuts to remove. here's my progress. I'll start up again tomorrow.

[Hockey13]

It only let's me add 1 photo a post on the android app..

[Mark M]

Originally Posted by Hockey13

photos are so helpful! I now see the nuts to remove. here's my progress. I'll start up again tomorrow.

Heads up, where you have that blue hose making a tight 180 degree bend to mate with the accumulator nipple, on mine this tight bend began to occasionally collapse under vacuum robbing me of low end punch. I've since re routed the hose to have a more gentle bend.

[TDIwyse]

This is very good info guys, and thanks for taking the time to post. It appears this is something we'll all have to deal with eventually.

Has anyone, after having to replace these lines, choosen to completely change the routing of those hard to reach hoses? I'd rather have a longer hose route that's more easily accessed than a shorter route that's a pain to change out...

[chau]

I changed my red and blue hoses recently as well with silicone hoses. I cut the new hose to similar length but gave it a bit more slack. Still getting code p0029 for underboost though.

[Mark M]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

This is very good info guys, and thanks for taking the time to post. It appears this is something we'll all have to deal with eventually.

Has anyone, after having to replace these lines, choosen to completely change the routing of those hard to reach hoses? I'd rather have a longer hose route that's more easily accessed than a shorter route that's a pain to change out...

When I was working / testing on my car I began to wonder about the possibility of relocating that entire 'nest'. Those small pressure converters are essentially bolted to the hot engine and prone to constant vibration / harmonics. That can't be good for sensitive devices. With the cover off, start the engine and then place your hand on that 'nest' you'll feel it rocking and vibrating from the motor like an epileptic making a martini.

For those with an ABC delete, you're essentially down to an accumulator and 3 pressure converters. All of which can be remotely mounted in a more cozy environment. Perhaps up within the cowling on that side? Then while at it if one were really innovative, splice in a vacuum gauge to alert you to any issues.

[Built4Sin]

Originally Posted by Mark M

When I was working / testing on my car I began to wonder about the possibility of relocating that entire 'nest'. Those small pressure converters are essentially bolted to the hot engine and prone to constant vibration / harmonics. That can't be good for sensitive devices. With the cover off, start the engine and then place your hand on that 'nest' you'll feel it rocking and vibrating from the motor like an epileptic making a martini.

For those with an ABC delete, you're essentially down to an accumulator and 3 pressure converters. All of which can be remotely mounted in a more cozy environment. Perhaps up within the cowling on that side? Then while at it if one were really innovative, splice in a vacuum gauge to alert you to any issues.

Something like this?





http://www.42draftdesigns.com/6-port-vacuum-manifold/

[Hockey13]

I'm about to start working on the lines again and thought about rerouting the lines but if I increase length, will that have any negative effects?

[Hockey13]

Here's old hose vs. New hose. New is 3.5mm inner

[Hockey13]

damn android app