[Hockey13]

So i finally finished changing out the Vacuum Lines/Hoses whichever you prefer to call them and let me say, what a PITA!!! I decided to stick with 3.5mm inner diameter and use silicone lines as replacements. Here's my tips/ tricks.

EST. Time From Start To End: ~5 hours (included several non-working minutes to swear and ponder and swear again)

Tools: Flashlight & cellphone light, various sockets, extensions and most importantly an x-acto knife with a curved blade (Shown Below).

Replacement Product: http://www.amazon.com/HPS-HTSVH35-RE...ne+vacuum+hose

** I ordered Red, Blue, and Black all in 10' lengths. I wanted to be sure to have enough and its only ~$60 for all.

Brief How To:

1) Remove the engine cover, cabin air filter, etc.
2) Remove air intake duct above radiator by remove three screws. Two are on top, one is in front.
3) Remove air intake box, unplug MAF and other misc. connectors to all removal.
3) Take a deep breath because the next steps suck!
4) Using the X-acto, I sliced the old line where it covers the various nips and usually attempted to slice a "V" pattern. For example: The end of the existing line now has two slices that meet and intersect near the tip of the nips within the line.
5) To remove the Red Line in the rear of the engine, I removed the black bracket that has several components mounted to it. there are three nuts recessed into the mount. I used a socket attached to a extension that i slipped into the recessed area then connected the wrench. This technique is essential for the nut nearest to the firewall. Once you remove this one, put if for safe keeping, as I, once completed, did not put it back on as I felt two were enough.
6) As for all lines, once removed, I cut a matching or slightly longer replacement piece. I cut some linger because the new lines have a bigger outer diameter, as to relieve stress on the tight turns that certain lines had.
7) Replace all parts removed and your done. ** Note: I did notice that due to the bigger outer diameter lines the engine cover was more of a "tight fit" that I believe is due to the molded foam. With a little "pressure" the engine cover does go back on with no issues.

#1 Tip) Patience, Time, and a good vocabulary of swear words.

I did not do the line that is under the Air Intake Box that wraps beneath the engine as I could not feel an end, however I will be putting the car on some stands and removing the under body cover and replacing that one as well. It should be pretty easy and straight forward.

Let me know if I can provide any further details. I started to make a video but became frustrated with the Red line and never completed the video.

Hope the photos help! (They had to be resized for the forum so hopefully they aren't too distorted. They are also not in much of an order, except for the finished photo)

[Mik325tds]

Thank you very much for this thread and write up! It are posts like this what makes this forum great. I guess I have two preventative maintenance jobs for this summer: Vibration damper pulley and this!
Cheers mate!

[335dlci]

The lines you are referring to that go under the engine are most likely for the engine mounts.

[Hockey13]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

The lines you are referring to that go under the engine are most likely for the engine mounts.

Line #13

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by Hockey13

Line #13

[GadgetBMW]

Thanks for this very useful write-up! Doing something about increasing the lifespan of the vacuum hoses is on my list of enhancements.

[Mark M]

When installing the engine cover. Take caution not to inadvertently crush a vacuum hose. There are several possible pinch points.

[kydiesel35]

Hockey how did this setup result? Did you have codes or leaks prior to this install?

[supermann125]

Did you replace any of the connectors/Ts/couplers? What kind of condition were they in? Brittle?

[Hockey13]

Originally Posted by kydiesel35

Hockey how did this setup result? Did you have codes or leaks prior to this install?

No codes or leaks were known. I noticed the red line that goes over the turbos had some cracks in the shielding so decided to change it/them before it did leak.

Once the PITA job was done everything was still good with no known issues.

[Hockey13]

Originally Posted by supermann125

Did you replace any of the connectors/Ts/couplers? What kind of condition were they in? Brittle?

The tips for actuators and such seemed okay. The t connectors and any other coupler seemed okay as well. no signs in appearance/feel to lead me to believe they should have been replaced due to being brittle/etc. Had I felt they should have been I definitely would have.

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by Hockey13

So i finally finished changing out the Vacuum Lines/Hoses whichever you prefer to call them and let me say, what a PITA!!! I decided to stick with 3.5mm inner diameter and use silicone lines as replacements. Here's my tips/ tricks.

EST. Time From Start To End: ~5 hours (included several non-working minutes to swear and ponder and swear again)

Tools: Flashlight & cellphone light, various sockets, extensions and most importantly an x-acto knife with a curved blade (Shown Below).

Replacement Product: http://www.amazon.com/HPS-HTSVH35-RE...ne+vacuum+hose

** I ordered Red, Blue, and Black all in 10' lengths. I wanted to be sure to have enough and its only ~$60 for all.

Brief How To:

1) Remove the engine cover, cabin air filter, etc.
2) Remove air intake duct above radiator by remove three screws. Two are on top, one is in front.
3) Remove air intake box, unplug MAF and other misc. connectors to all removal.
3) Take a deep breath because the next steps suck!
4) Using the X-acto, I sliced the old line where it covers the various nips and usually attempted to slice a "V" pattern. For example: The end of the existing line now has two slices that meet and intersect near the tip of the nips within the line.
5) To remove the Red Line in the rear of the engine, I removed the black bracket that has several components mounted to it. there are three nuts recessed into the mount. I used a socket attached to a extension that i slipped into the recessed area then connected the wrench. This technique is essential for the nut nearest to the firewall. Once you remove this one, put if for safe keeping, as I, once completed, did not put it back on as I felt two were enough.
6) As for all lines, once removed, I cut a matching or slightly longer replacement piece. I cut some linger because the new lines have a bigger outer diameter, as to relieve stress on the tight turns that certain lines had.
7) Replace all parts removed and your done. ** Note: I did notice that due to the bigger outer diameter lines the engine cover was more of a "tight fit" that I believe is due to the molded foam. With a little "pressure" the engine cover does go back on with no issues.

#1 Tip) Patience, Time, and a good vocabulary of swear words.

I did not do the line that is under the Air Intake Box that wraps beneath the engine as I could not feel an end, however I will be putting the car on some stands and removing the under body cover and replacing that one as well. It should be pretty easy and straight forward.

Let me know if I can provide any further details. I started to make a video but became frustrated with the Red line and never completed the video.

Hope the photos help! (They had to be resized for the forum so hopefully they aren't too distorted. They are also not in much of an order, except for the finished photo)

Reviving this thread hoping for some quick answers. Is there any issue with these hoses coming in contact with oil or fuel? I've heard silicone doesn't hold up to those fluids. Also, how well are these lines holding up now? Gonna Try and get this stuff in by Friday to get it done for a long drive next weekend. Also going to replace the engine mount vacuum lines.

[Hockey13]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

Reviving this thread hoping for some quick answers. Is there any issue with these hoses coming in contact with oil or fuel? I've heard silicone doesn't hold up to those fluids. Also, how well are these lines holding up now? Gonna Try and get this stuff in by Friday to get it done for a long drive next weekend. Also going to replace the engine mount vacuum lines.

everything is holding up great!! in fact, one line I see was rubbing and because of the thickness of the wall of the hose, no problems! just make sure you cut the lines a little longer then or because the turns off the connectors take a bigger radius. make sense? I've put probably 10k mi. since I replaced them If I had to guess.

[jomiri]

Reviving the thread one more time. How many feet of vacuum line did you end up using? Is there anything you wish you did differently in your install?

[Hockey13]

Originally Posted by jomiri

Reviving the thread one more time. How many feet of vacuum line did you end up using? Is there anything you wish you did differently in your install?

I think it comes in 10' (I had 3 bags, red,blue,black)? I've used just about all of it now since when I did the glow plug module I was able to access some other lines. Can't think of anything is do differently. Defiantly want that curved xacto blade.

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by jomiri

Reviving the thread one more time. How many feet of vacuum line did you end up using? Is there anything you wish you did differently in your install?

I bought OE vacuum line from fixmyvw.com. I bought 3 yards(9 feet) and that was plenty. Absolutely get a curved xacto blade. And there is a banjo bolt on the exhaust manifold. If you have to mess with that any, be sure it is heated up. Mine was cold and when i cracked it off, the bolt stripped. Had to get it towed to a shop.

[rkstar9]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

I bought OE vacuum line from fixmyvw.com. I bought 3 yards(9 feet) and that was plenty. Absolutely get a curved xacto blade. And there is a banjo bolt on the exhaust manifold. If you have to mess with that any, be sure it is heated up. Mine was cold and when i cracked it off, the bolt stripped. Had to get it towed to a shop.

so the OP used 30 feet and you used 9 Feet??

[Persian Whisperjet]

Mine used about 8 feet for all lines.

[335stoner]

Originally Posted by rkstar9

so the OP used 30 feet and you used 9 Feet??

It looks like he had a typo... he said "I think it comes in 10' "

I think he meant to say I think it comes in at 10'

me personally I bought one 10ft bag and it is enough. I still have a few lines to replace and it looks like I have plenty to complete.

3.5mm ID 10ft

[aaddam2]

I vote to make this a sticky

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by aaddam2

I vote to make this a sticky

We've tried to get so many stickies. If you check the DIY Guides sticky, this is in there.

[HudZ]

Anyone use Verocious Motorsports vacuum hose in their D? I saw it all over the 335i hose replacement thread. Concerned a little by the notice on their site that says "Silicone hose is NOT FOR USE IN FUEL OR OIL APPLICATIONS".

https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...ld-by-the-Foot