[Larrye90]

So want to up grade my sound with plug and play speakers . And I want to amp the two subs under the seat and a small one in the trunk. I need help finding a wiring harness that's fits the stock radio with some RCA so I can run them to the back for the amp. This guy Technic I wish I can get in contact with him but he can't receive PM . Does anyone else know of a place .

Ps. It's a 2010 e90 328i

[GATORB8]

Base, Hifi, or HK?

[taibanl]

Technic pnp dot com

[Larrye90]

I have the base . Two door speakers two back deck speakers and two woofers under the seat

[GATORB8]

If you can't get a hold of him, you can make a similar harness to his 2/4 setup for about the same price by buying the male and female versions of the oem underseat woofer connectors. Using that with an LOC will give you the signal you need to amp the doors, underseats, and an additional sub.

If you also want to amp the rears and maintain HU fader capability you would need to step up to his HU harness, not sure that would be affordable to replicate with BMW parts.

[Larrye90]

Originally Posted by taibanl

Technic pnp dot com

Thank you Taibanl . I just send a message through his website. Know just need him to reply.

[Larrye90]

You know what my be no Sub in the trunk. Just some nice plug and play speakers and the subs under the seat.

Now, they say the earthquakes sws 8 are great as long as they are amplified. Does anyone know to confirm. And well my new question is, should I amp the door speakers too?

With that make a nice combination? Not to much but just enough.

Any suggestions.

[GATORB8]

Originally Posted by Larrye90

You know what my be no Sub in the trunk. Just some nice plug and play speakers and the subs under the seat.

Now, they say the earthquakes sws 8 are great as long as they are amplified. Does anyone know to confirm. And well my new question is, should I amp the door speakers too?

With that make a nice combination? Not to much but just enough.

Any suggestions.

Components in the front doors and earthquakes or something similar under seat is the go to combo. It would be hard to make just underseats amped sound good, you'll need to maintain the high pass filter on the 4" doors and the earthquakes have to play pretty high into the mids. It would definitely be better to amp amp the doors and underseats with a four channel, you could always add another amp and trunk sub if you wanted because the signal will already be in the trunk.

[Larrye90]

Originally Posted by GATORB8

Components in the front doors and earthquakes or something similar under seat is the go to combo. It would be hard to make just underseats amped sound good, you'll need to maintain the high pass filter on the 4" doors and the earthquakes have to play pretty high into the mids. It would definitely be better to amp amp the doors and underseats with a four channel, you could always add another amp and trunk sub if you wanted because the signal will already be in the trunk.

Yea maybe both amped or none amped. I was thinking of putting a amp for the sub under the seats just to get a solid thump not to make it louder.

The thing I don't want to do is run all the wires of the speakers all the way to the back . And I'm running all this on the battery. I don't want to install a capacitor.

The Bavsound it's one of the main plug N play option what else is good that u guys know

[GATORB8]

Originally Posted by Larrye90

Yea maybe both amped or none amped. I was thinking of putting a amp for the sub under the seats just to get a solid thump not to make it louder.

The thing I don't want to do is run all the wires of the speakers all the way to the back . And I'm running all this on the battery. I don't want to install a capacitor.

The Bavsound it's one of the main plug N play option what else is good that u guys know

Base creates a couple issues. Without amping, you're connecting your front doors and underseats in parrallel to a single pair of full range channels and your rears to a second set of high passed channels. In the door speakers themselves, there is a high pass filter to keep them from trying to play down low, and there is a low pass in the underseats to keep them from playing up high with the doors.

When you replace your speakers, you loose those filters if you don't add them back in with the crossovers on the amp. And further, you wouldn't gain much (if any) benefit on the underseats with out much power. Note, with the parrallel configuration in the stock wiring, you wouldn't be able to install the 2 ohm version of the Earthquake as it would reduce your channel load to 1.3 ohms vs 2 and would not be good long term for your head unit.

Note that all the speaker wire you would need to run would be to an from each underseat. You can connect your door signals right back to that location (like the technic harness does).

Capacitors are useless, don't worry about them. Today's amps are extremely efficient, don't worry too much about the extra draw on your electrical system.

Don't start counting out your money yet, I think there are some better options to accomplish your goals without $500 component sets.

This is my staged plan that I'm currently executing, minimizing outlay of cost until i find the sweet spot for my listening preference:

Originally Posted by GATORB8

Especially in this forum, it seems hard to see past the sea of Audiophile level posts with use of high end speakers and expensive DSPs and amps. I'm starting a phased build in the coming weeks and I'll stop when I'm happy. I plan to end up in the very low end of the budget spectrum when I'm done.

1. Swap to Hifi minds and tweets, eBay $50, plus like $40 for new OEM sails. I cut the stock foam tweeter sail fillers rather than buy the Hifi version. This is complete and makes a difference on its own. Note, this removes the high pass filter from the mids so it's not a good long term solution without adding an amp. I can resale the stock stuff for probably half this if I wanted. If I upgrade to higher end comps later I'll easily be able to get most of the money back out of thee Hifi setup.
2. I used an awesome amp for my last build (my F150) and it should work perfect for this application as well. A few years back, Kenwood made the KAC-X4R. 100x4@4, 150x4@2, but even better it's got a built in EQ and DSP (can produce 5.1 signal. I found a lightly used one on eBay for $120. Since the amp can't take speaker level inputs I picked up a PAC LOC Pro for $20 and a cheap amp hookup kit. This is the next step of the install, 2x100 will power the HIfi door comps, 2x100 to the underseats, I expect to be gained down pretty far. Depending on performance, I may stop here (I'll EQ with use of a cheap iPhone app to flatten the stock signal). Note, I found in my truck that overamping allows you to prevent amplifier and head unit distortion and clipping which allow your speakers to play much safer at their power thresholds. I've been sending a stock ford HU signal at 100w per channel to components rated at 50w for over 6 years with no issues.
3. (If Necessary) swap underseats to Earthquakes, or possibly OEM 8s if the amped 6.5s get close to my goals.
4. (If Necessay) swap to a higher end 4" comp in the doors.