[tcubed]

Anyone know what the P3000 code is? Did some searching and seems it may be related to the Glow plugs? I have a 2011 with 59k miles

[lnxguy]

P3000
Glow Plug Indictor Light -K29- Malfunction Message From Instrument Cluster

Clear it and see if it comes back.

[Mik325tds]

Not at all related to Glow plugs:
P3000 = Fault code 003F40: Rail pressure sensor. Offset test

Monitoring deviation test, rail pressure sensor. The fault is detected if the non-linearised value of the rail pressure (voltage) upon engine start or during after-run of the control unit exceeds the limit value (excessive positive offset).

Engine start limit value: 648 mV

After-run limit value: 648 mV

Condition for fault identification: Monitoring takes place continuously if no electrical faults are set.

Control unit voltage: 9.5 V to 16 V.
Condition for fault memory entry At start: 30 ms

During control unit after-run: 100 ms

Action in service
1. Check line and plug connections

- Check connections for corrosion!

- Check connectors for correct locking!

2. Carry out function check.

If checks mentioned above are OK: Replace rail pressure sensor.

[335dlci]

Would this be the typical JBD fault under high load after start up/run period?

[BB_cuda]

Mik325,
This rail pressure sensor, is that the sensor that is at the rear of the rail that needs to be unplugged for intake removal?

One of the remedies given above is to unplug harness and replug and check for correct locking (hearing it click). I have disconnected twice for 2 intake pulls and reconnected without issue.

EDIT: Nope, I was incorrect. The connector I speak of is a pressure regulating valve (item #2). The pressure sensor is shown at the front end of fuel rail (item #3). See realoem link

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=13_1150

[tcubed]

Thanks for the info. Light went off yesterday without doing anything. I'll check the connections and make sure they are good

[Kaym]

I am having same code and rough idle on my e90 2011 318d.

Its got 130k on the vlock. Not at all looked after by previous owners.

Here the issue in detail:

Intermitent rough idle and ocassional accelarator pedal unresponsive and steering becomes heavy momentarily and comes back to power steering but still feels heavy. Code P3000 was recorded on the odb reader.

I am new to the forum so apologise if this has been discussed in another thread but I am trying to diagnose the above issue.

I bought an E90 318d 2011 manual sport plus about a month ago. It has 128k on the clock. 2 weeks ago while cleaning the car I left the car doors open and key in the ignition with footwell lights etc on.

When I got in the car later to move it forward it started to idle rough and the sterrjng was hard. So I rev'd it and took it for a quick road test round the block. No issues.

Then last weekend I put it up to change the breaks. I started at 10 and finished at 2. I gain had left the front lights on. When I started and was really badly behaved. Very erratic and the steering was hard. Almost like a missfire. Anyway I took it for another road test round the block, and this time it while clutch down to change gear the rpm would drop to zero and the car will cut out. I kept restarting it and pushing it and keeping it above 2.6 and 3k rpm and then it started to behave itself.

Third time it did this is after I pushed it hard.

I got the codes read on it and its showing P3000.

Any suggestions on what my next steps should be to tackle this problem.

Videos and images below

https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/attachments/img-20200705-wa0007-jpeg.270272/


https://youtu.be/vrC6RH4pf0U


All help and advice is welcome and appreciated.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Kaym

I am having same code and rough idle on my e90 2011 318d.

Its got 130k on the vlock. Not at all looked after by previous owners.

Here the issue in detail:

Intermitent rough idle and ocassional accelarator pedal unresponsive and steering becomes heavy momentarily and comes back to power steering but still feels heavy. Code P3000 was recorded on the odb reader.

I am new to the forum so apologise if this has been discussed in another thread but I am trying to diagnose the above issue.

I bought an E90 318d 2011 manual sport plus about a month ago. It has 128k on the clock. 2 weeks ago while cleaning the car I left the car doors open and key in the ignition with footwell lights etc on.

When I got in the car later to move it forward it started to idle rough and the sterrjng was hard. So I rev'd it and took it for a quick road test round the block. No issues.

Then last weekend I put it up to change the breaks. I started at 10 and finished at 2. I gain had left the front lights on. When I started and was really badly behaved. Very erratic and the steering was hard. Almost like a missfire. Anyway I took it for another road test round the block, and this time it while clutch down to change gear the rpm would drop to zero and the car will cut out. I kept restarting it and pushing it and keeping it above 2.6 and 3k rpm and then it started to behave itself.

Third time it did this is after I pushed it hard.

I got the codes read on it and its showing P3000.

Any suggestions on what my next steps should be to tackle this problem.

Videos and images below

https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/attac...7-jpeg.270272/


All help and advice is welcome and appreciated.

Hey mate, welcome to the forum.
Unfortunately, we don't have much experience with the EU 318d here.
Can you please find out which engine you have? Is it an N47 or M47?
I looked up the P3000 for an N47 in ISTA+ and there are two sub-categories:
003F40 and 276B00. Neither one of them show any additional information in the offline mode.
So I suggest you get a USB OBD cable, get ISTA+ on a laptop or find someone who has and start diagnosing with that tool.

[Kaym]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Hey mate, welcome to the forum.
Unfortunately, we don't have much experience with the EU 318d here.
Can you please find out which engine you have? Is it an N47 or M47?
I looked up the P3000 for an N47 in ISTA+ and there are two sub-categories:
003F40 and 276B00. Neither one of them show any additional information in the offline mode.
So I suggest you get a USB OBD cable, get ISTA+ on a laptop or find someone who has and start diagnosing with that tool.

Hey thanks for the response.

It is N47 engine.


I got the codes read yesterday and then got them cleared and drove for a bit and the codes came back today.

3F40 is the code (as you mentioned) is showing along with many others.


I took the engine cover off to get a closer look at the part and then put it all together and the car transformed idles are stable and its pulling well. When changing gears at speed with clutch down the idles steady during changes. I think something is loose and got moved a bit when I was looking around the engine block.

I will try to attach from my laptop.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Kaym

Hey thanks for the response.

It is N47 engine.


I got the codes read yesterday and then got them cleared and drove for a bit and the codes came back today.

3F40 is the code (as you mentioned) is showing along with many others.


I took the engine cover off to get a closer look at the part and then put it all together and the car transformed idles are stable and its pulling well. When changing gears at speed with clutch down the idles steady during changes. I think something is loose and got moved a bit when I was looking around the engine block.

I will try to attach from my laptop.

It looks like you have multiple problems going on.
The one that is currently active in your second picture (452A: Info - particulate-filter system) is most likely that your DPF is getting clogged because it hasn't been able to re-generate for a while. The reason for that is most likely that one of the other faults is preventing a regeneration cycle to start. You'll have to fix these problems soon, otherwise you'll spend a lot a money on a new DPF.
I'd go after the following codes first:
3F40: Rail pressure sensor, offset test: This might be a defective rail pressure sensor or as simple as a clogged fuel filter. When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?

4873: Exhaust gas recirculation cooling, plausibility: Check the vacuum supply and changeover valve for the EGR cooler bypass flap. Try to move the flap by hand and see if it moves freely and returns to resting position by spring force.

The other faults "zero-quantity calibration" a secondary faults in my opinion. But they could be indications of CBU as well. Take off your intake manifold and see how bad the carbon buildup is.

[Kaym]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

It looks like you have multiple problems going on.
The one that is currently active in your second picture (452A: Info - particulate-filter system) is most likely that your DPF is getting clogged because it hasn't been able to re-generate for a while. The reason for that is most likely that one of the other faults is preventing a regeneration cycle to start. You'll have to fix these problems soon, otherwise you'll spend a lot a money on a new DPF.
I'd go after the following codes first:
3F40: Rail pressure sensor, offset test: This might be a defective rail pressure sensor or as simple as a clogged fuel filter. When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?

4873: Exhaust gas recirculation cooling, plausibility: Check the vacuum supply and changeover valve for the EGR cooler bypass flap. Try to move the flap by hand and see if it moves freely and returns to resting position by spring force.

The other faults "zero-quantity calibration" a secondary faults in my opinion. But they could be indications of CBU as well. Take off your intake manifold and see how bad the carbon buildup is.

Thanks for the response. Appreciated.
I dont recall it being changed in my ownership and there are no point at which the service history mentioned fuel filter replacement. I am going to change the fuel filter and then change the fuel rail pressure sensor. I will check the manifold for carbon buildup and also egr cooler spring now.


Just wanted to mention that you know I said since I took the covers off to check the sensor I fiddled the connector cables on the fuel regulator and sensor and ensure everything was tight. Since then I took the car for a good run on m25 and m4 approx 100miles and drove it pretty hard. The car drives better and no rough idle or low power.

However. I do want the car to be faultless so will work on your recommendation and I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks